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EnricoFermi
Oct 23, 2012, 09:40 AM
My son spilled some water on my macbook pro yesterday. So I have the dead boot issue like everyone else where absolutely nothing lights up or turns on, and I did disassemble the device and checked voltage levels.The magsafe power adapter does nothing, no orange or green whatsoever, and the incident actually shorted out the white magsafe adapter. A working magsafe, which I have determined by plugging it into a fully working macbook, doesn't get any voltages onto the pins of the magsafe board internally, not even 6.5 volt levels, they just hover around 40mV or so. I went ahead and ordered a new magsafe board because I can definitely say it is needed.

However, I am afraid that I may or may not have fried or corrupted the SMC when I was checking the pins on the battery connection. I believe I very briefly connected SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL to +12V and saw a small spark at those contacts when I did. Now one of the battery indicator lights on the motherboard is solid green all of the time. I cannot remember if it was this way prior to this accidental mishap or I just hadn't noticed the light. I had assumed it may indicate a diagnostic message but it is on no matter what the shape of the laptop. I have tried resetting the SMC by the startup routine and the power removal/power button approach, so perhaps it is from this. It is hard to remember when this showed up.

That said, I had enough battery and got the macbook to boot using the SMC bypass mentioned in this thread and it ran normally except for all battery functionality and the fan was on at full speed. It listed no battery, that it was plugged into AC, which it was not (not getting any AC power anyway), and the lights were still the same. None of the SMC functionality worked either, no keyboard lights, etc. It ran out of power while I was backing it up and now is dead, although I have another laptop so I can charge the battery if I need to.

Is the light you see in this photo a specific indication of any kind and do I need to reset the SMC? If so, what approach actually works?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/photo1ll.jpg/



triplelucky
Oct 23, 2012, 10:26 AM
This is a great thread with more board level tech info in one place than I've ever seen anywhere.

After reading this for hours and armed with all of this excellent information I'm anxious to get back to my own project which is a June 2009 MBP 13, liquid spill.

It runs fine on AC but won't power on or run with just the battery.

So I'm off to have a look at Q7055 to try and see why I have no 3.42 on G3HOT on only battery power.

After one more cup of coffee.

Thanks to everyone for posting all this information.

mac-n-sauce
Oct 23, 2012, 10:53 AM
Hi Dadioh,

Can you show me on a logic board 820-2530A (MBP-13" A1278 - K24, Mid 2009) where LT3470A and R6995-R6996 are located?

The parts you are looking for are located on the bottom of the board. This is the side you can see when you take the bottom case off the computer. They are located 1.5" left of the lcd connector near the top edge of the computer which is the north side if the battery is the south.

destic
Oct 23, 2012, 12:39 PM
My son spilled some water on my macbook pro yesterday. So I have the dead boot issue like everyone else where absolutely nothing lights up or turns on, and I did disassemble the device and checked voltage levels.The magsafe power adapter does nothing, no orange or green whatsoever, and the incident actually shorted out the white magsafe adapter. A working magsafe, which I have determined by plugging it into a fully working macbook, doesn't get any voltages onto the pins of the magsafe board internally, not even 6.5 volt levels, they just hover around 40mV or so. I went ahead and ordered a new magsafe board because I can definitely say it is needed.

However, I am afraid that I may or may not have fried or corrupted the SMC when I was checking the pins on the battery connection. I believe I very briefly connected SMBUS_SMC_BSA_SCL to +12V and saw a small spark at those contacts when I did. Now one of the battery indicator lights on the motherboard is solid green all of the time. I cannot remember if it was this way prior to this accidental mishap or I just hadn't noticed the light. I had assumed it may indicate a diagnostic message but it is on no matter what the shape of the laptop. I have tried resetting the SMC by the startup routine and the power removal/power button approach, so perhaps it is from this. It is hard to remember when this showed up.

That said, I had enough battery and got the macbook to boot using the SMC bypass mentioned in this thread and it ran normally except for all battery functionality and the fan was on at full speed. It listed no battery, that it was plugged into AC, which it was not (not getting any AC power anyway), and the lights were still the same. None of the SMC functionality worked either, no keyboard lights, etc. It ran out of power while I was backing it up and now is dead, although I have another laptop so I can charge the battery if I need to.

Is the light you see in this photo a specific indication of any kind and do I need to reset the SMC? If so, what approach actually works?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/171/photo1ll.jpg/

If R5280 and R5281 have both 2.61K then very likely the SMC took some damage. Has anybody here been able to manual reflash a SMC with the same firmware?

EnricoFermi
Oct 23, 2012, 01:18 PM
If R5280 and R5281 have both 2.61K then very likely the SMC took some damage. Has anybody here been able to manual reflash a SMC with the same firmware?

So I should check the resistance on both of those and make sure it's about 1k ohm, if not it's damaged?

destic
Oct 23, 2012, 02:35 PM
So I should check the resistance on both of those and make sure it's about 1k ohm, if not it's damaged?

The Resistance should be exact 2,6 kOhm as the diagram says just 1% tolerance, if this is not the case, then the resistors are the problem and not the smc

----------

Does anybody here found a way to manual reflash a SMC with the same firmware thats already on it?

MightyMars
Oct 23, 2012, 05:01 PM
THANX

Does it charge the battery? what do you mean with efi test? do you mean the apple hardware test or where did you get it? Did you only measure resistance or did you also measure voltage?[/QUOTE]

it is charge the battery... but when battery is connected it runs very slow...
Yes i mean the apple hardware test..
I just measured resistance..
thanks!

triplelucky
Oct 23, 2012, 06:31 PM
I am having a look at the EMC 2326 820-2530-A MBP 13 board.

No G3HOT 3.42 on only battery operation at the jump points pictured way earlier in the thread.

Good 3.42 with normal startup, charging and normal operation on AC.

So I appear to be loosing the 3.42 on battery only power.

Earlier discussion points out this might be a problem with Q7055 and Q7056.

Are these their location on this board?

Thanks

RetroRepair
Oct 24, 2012, 01:36 AM
I have here a mid 2010 A1342 Macbook (not pro, the unibody white model) which does nothing but show a green light on the magsafe.

Its had a liquid spill but I cleaned that up.

I'm getting the right voltages at the dc in connector on the logic board.

The G3hot seems fine, 3.3v one side, 0v the other.

I have noticed on the battery connector that I get 3.3v on pin 4 but pin 6 is shorted to ground. Anyone have the schematic for that bit? Since theres no board markings and its shorted I have no idea where pin 6 goes.

I should add pin 14 on the SMC (I think its the SMC?) is getting 3.3v.

I'd really appreciate some help, I've been doing this for days now :(

triplelucky
Oct 24, 2012, 10:38 AM
Ok I think that in the pix those are Q7050 and Q7052 the inrush FETS

Looks like I have input but no output on Q7050 so off to look in that direction.

debo160
Oct 24, 2012, 02:44 PM
Has anyone ever replaced a keyboard connector? Is this a part you can purchase? I have a white Macbook and the keyboard connector is broken. It will boot from the connectors. Any info would be great.

Dadioh
Oct 24, 2012, 02:53 PM
Has anyone ever replaced a keyboard connector? Is this a part you can purchase? I have a white Macbook and the keyboard connector is broken. It will boot from the connectors. Any info would be great.

http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=macbook+a1342+keyboard+connector&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_odkw=macbook+keyboard+connector&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

You can buy them on eBay. Pretty much need to get a new one because I doubt you could get one off a spare parts board without melting the plastic.

Installing the new one should be done by someone with good soldering skills.

debo160
Oct 24, 2012, 03:23 PM
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=macbook+a1342+keyboard+connector&_sacat=0&_sop=15&_odkw=macbook+keyboard+connector&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

You can buy them on eBay. Pretty much need to get a new one because I doubt you could get one off a spare parts board without melting the plastic.

Installing the new one should be done by someone with good soldering skills.

Ok I have not replaced one of these yet but have brought a few MacBooks back to life. But this looks like it will melt really fast. I guest I could tape it down with kapton tape and quick solder and flux would do it.
Thanks

Dadioh
Oct 24, 2012, 07:27 PM
Here is a new, unrelated issue but maybe some of the board repair experts on this thread have some ideas.

I have a 2010 MBP13 2.4GHz that I got with liquid damage. I got it working for a few weeks but it suddenly developed a problem where it would not start up but would shut down part way through the chime. Holding down the power button until it flashed would allow it to boot and things "seemed" fine. I ran Apple Hardware Test and it failed with code 4SNS/1/40000000:ICOC-65.828

The SNS means "Sensor" and I suspect ICOC is something about "Over Current". So I thought maybe one of the current sensors is broken.

I installed iStat Menus on the machine and had a look at the sensor data and it is all over the place. So it is not just one sensor that is wrong but it is across the board for voltage and current sensors. But there doesn't seem to be a common failure point that would lead to so many apparently unrelated sensor circuits to be wrong. Common denominator is the SMC but a bad SMC probably would kill the whole board.

Am I missing something obvious or does anyone have any ideas?

macelek01
Oct 25, 2012, 02:23 PM
Hello Everybody,

I would like to ask for some help from you. I've got a white macbook unibody (2010), but this doesn't power on. On the PPBUS_G3H line the voltage isn't the stable 12,6V. (It's changing 0 to 12,6V.)
The charging control ic (ISL6259) contols on a wrong way the inrush limiter FET(Q7085 - SI7149DP). The gate of this FET is controlled on a wrong way by the ISL6259 (AGATE). At this place should be stable 6V, but now it's ones 6V, than turns into about 13V. I've already replaced the ISL6259, but I still have this problem. I would be so glad if somebody could help me. To repair my mac would be very important for me.

Thank you very much for reading.

I'm so desperated, because I really need your help. Now unfortunately I dont't have enough money for a new laptop, so please help me to repair my laptop! :confused:

Thank you! :)

comphorizons
Oct 25, 2012, 04:06 PM
Short pin 5 to ground, no boot. I got voltage across the board, DCIN is good.
With magsafe plugged in, got a solid green led, tried to start with power button, nothing. Then after SMC reset, cpu started on high speed, no boot.
short pin 5 to ground, nothing.

What you think i should look into?

Any help on this, guys?

cmdrdata
Oct 25, 2012, 08:03 PM
I'm so desperated, because I really need your help. Now unfortunately I dont't have enough money for a new laptop, so please help me to repair my laptop! :confused:

Thank you! :)
A few questions before I can tell you what to look next.
1. Does it work with battery alone? If not, with a charged battery, do you see correct G3HOT (3.4v) and steady 12v on the PPBUS_G3H?

2. If operating on magsafe only, do you see steady G3HOT? if not, the problem is somewhere before the ISL6259

3. If yes, then do you see 16.5v or greater on the top of the FET driven CHGR_UGATE? My MB13W schematic shows this as pin5 of Q7020. I do not have schematic for your model (my schematic is for K84)

macelek01
Oct 26, 2012, 12:58 PM
A few questions before I can tell you what to look next.
1. Does it work with battery alone? If not, with a charged battery, do you see correct G3HOT (3.4v) and steady 12v on the PPBUS_G3H?

2. If operating on magsafe only, do you see steady G3HOT? if not, the problem is somewhere before the ISL6259

3. If yes, then do you see 16.5v or greater on the top of the FET driven CHGR_UGATE? My MB13W schematic shows this as pin5 of Q7020. I do not have schematic for your model (my schematic is for K84)

Dear Cmdrdata,

Thank you for your answer. :)
Already I have no more idea. :(

1.) No, it doesn't work with battery alone, but the G3HOT is correct (I measured 3,41V). The PPBUS_G3H is steady 12,45V, but the mac doesn't turn on.

2.) If the logic board operates only from magsafe, the G3HOT is steady 3,41V, but the PPBUS_G3H is changing continuously 0 to 12,6V and doesn't turn on too.

3.)If the logic board operates only form magsafe, the CHGR_UGATE (This is the gate control of Q7030 FET on my schematic) is changing like the PPBUS_G3H. (not steady, changing 0 to 12,6V)

Do you have any idea to solve this problem?

Thank's a lot!

cmdrdata
Oct 26, 2012, 01:21 PM
1.) No, it doesn't work with battery alone, but the G3HOT is correct (I measured 3,41V). The PPBUS_G3H is steady 12,45V, but the mac doesn't turn on.

2.) If the logic board operates only from magsafe, the G3HOT is steady 3,41V, but the PPBUS_G3H is changing continuously 0 to 12,6V and doesn't turn on too.

3.)If the logic board operates only form magsafe, the CHGR_UGATE (This is the gate control of Q7030 FET on my schematic) is changing like the PPBUS_G3H. (not steady, changing 0 to 12,6V)

Do you have any idea to solve this problem?

Thank's a lot!

My MB13W schematic is quite different from yours so I can't tell you what your Q7030 is doing (not in my schematic). See the attached schematic, yours should be similar and the voltages should also be similar if magsafe is plugged in. If the lower FET GATE signal (LGATE) is not pulsing, then the FET or the ISL6259 maybe bad.

Musicsoul78
Oct 27, 2012, 08:24 AM
Macbook A1278 13" Unibody silver

Hi, guys back again
fault
will Not power on

tests
magsafe good

magsafe green light

green light turn orange

charging battery fine.

checked and replaced keybaord

keyboard fine

but clip on keyboard connector has come loose

still if i try short pins on keyboard connector nothing happens.

i can i have help locating pins

Where are the g3hot pads that allow me to power up bypassing keyboard and keyboard pins.

if i look back to daddioh 1-4 post mine are not located there!

thanks in advance

I think data had one like this too!
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Photo%2027-10-2012%2014%2015%2010.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Photo%2027-10-2012%2014%2017%2014.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Photo%2027-10-2012%2014%2016%2029.jpg

mac-n-sauce
Oct 27, 2012, 03:55 PM
Does anyone know if you can do a SMC reset with just the logic board? If so, how? The keyboard is bad on the mac so I have the logic board out.

Musicsoul78
Oct 27, 2012, 04:52 PM
Does anyone know if you can do a SMC reset with just the logic board? If so, how? The keyboard is bad on the mac so I have the logic board out.

what mac is it T?

macattack600
Oct 27, 2012, 08:40 PM
I have the a1278 just like the pictures just above this thread I too can't find the g3hot pads to boot. I've cleaned this board well but this is def a smc issue. At one point I got the battery to charge and stop blinking board got warm then went back to regular flickering its a quick blinking, the battery lights also flickering. Can anyone point me to where to start I have a few of the a1286 schematics I can't find any a1278 though. Anyone familiar with this model a1278 2008 macbook that can lead me in the first direction greatly appreciated.

Musicsoul78
Oct 27, 2012, 10:09 PM
[/IMG]I have the a1278 just like the pictures just above this thread I too can't find the g3hot pads to boot. I've cleaned this board well but this is def a smc issue. At one point I got the battery to charge and stop blinking board got warm then went back to regular flickering its a quick blinking, the battery lights also flickering. Can anyone point me to where to start I have a few of the a1286 schematics I can't find any a1278 though. Anyone familiar with this model a1278 2008 macbook that can lead me in the first direction greatly appreciated.


here is the schematic for the a1278

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/MBP%2013%20i5%20A1278(1).pdf

i think the pads are on this side of board just to the right

look here

my g3hot measures 2.77v thats where im stuck! it is supposed to be 3.4v

i need a new keyboard connector i think. coz when i short the pads it boots fine?

@data and daddioh and macnsauce do you agree?
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Photo%2027-10-2012%2014%2015%2010.jpg

macattack600
Oct 27, 2012, 11:06 PM
[/IMG]
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/apple_macbook_pro_13_a1278_mlb_k24_rev_a_sch.pdf

here is the schematic for the a1278

i think the pads are on the other side of board just above the keyboard connector but on the flip side.

look here i could be wrong

my g3hot measures 2.77v thats where im stuck! it is supposed to be 3.4v

Image (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/update.jpg)

Yes that's it i'm getting 3.4v on that. Your just jumping across with a paper clip or screwdriver together right? It's working for you but I get nothing maybe i'm doing something wrong. Can you tell me where the fuse is located on this any other areas to check I do get a fast flickering on the magsafe maybe a fet is bad any suggestions appreciated thank you so much for the schematic!

Musicsoul78
Oct 27, 2012, 11:19 PM
I am preety shure that's it mine is dead any suggestions Where is the fuse located on this board it is different than the macbook pro unibody boards I've seen. I'm getting a switching flicker on my magsafe prob a bad fet. I guess this means if my g3hot is 0v this is preety bad?

oh dear:(

ok see the fuse next to the battery connector .... that should be open on the other side there is one too... test continuity

do you have spare dc in board to test?

has there been any liquid damage?

im lucky mine is just keyboard and keyboard connector related

macattack600
Oct 27, 2012, 11:26 PM
oh dear:(

ok see the fuse next to the battery connector .... that should be open on the other side there is one too... test continuity

do you have spare dc in board to test?

has there been any liquid damage?

im lucky mine is just keyboard and keyboard connector related

sorry I went back and redit my last post I do get 3.4v read and then let me know I do have a spare but it is off a a1181 regular macbook it does the same thing . Yes It is water damaged I've cleaned very well though.

Musicsoul78
Oct 27, 2012, 11:45 PM
sorry I went back and redit my last post I do get 3.4v read and then let me know I do have a spare but it is off a a1181 regular macbook it does the same thing . Yes It is water damaged I've cleaned very well though.

you cant use a1181 i know they fit but it wont read right with smc!

i have a1181 too and mine didnt work right!

buy some off ebay???

macelek01
Oct 28, 2012, 07:04 AM
My MB13W schematic is quite different from yours so I can't tell you what your Q7030 is doing (not in my schematic). See the attached schematic, yours should be similar and the voltages should also be similar if magsafe is plugged in. If the lower FET GATE signal (LGATE) is not pulsing, then the FET or the ISL6259 maybe bad.

Yesterday I tested and measured the logic board. About five for ten times, when I contacted the magsafe adapter to the motherboard, the voltage of the PPBUS_G3H was right. The voltage was 12,6V, but about five for ten times it changed continuously. Therefore I think the ISL6259 and the FETs aren't bad, because sometimes the PPBUS_G3H works properly. But in this case the logic board doesn't turn on and doesn't work from the full charged battery.
I think the problem could be on a higher lever. Do you have any idea?

I attached my schematic.

Thank's!

Musicsoul78
Oct 28, 2012, 07:26 AM
Yesterday I tested and measured the logic board. About five for ten times, when I contacted the magsafe adapter to the motherboard, the voltage of the PPBUS_G3H was right. The voltage was 12,6V, but about five for ten times it changed continuously. Therefore I think the ISL6259 and the FETs aren't bad, because sometimes the PPBUS_G3H works properly. But in this case the logic board doesn't turn on and doesn't work from the full charged battery.
I think the problem could be on a higher lever. Do you have any idea?

I attached my schematic.

Thank's!

what about the source its self then? what mag are using 60 85 40 originals or replacements. granted the power should still work from battery but its worth a try.

i always carry multiple chargers and dc-in boards for testing purposes

macelek01
Oct 28, 2012, 09:46 AM
what about the source its self then? what mag are using 60 85 40 originals or replacements. granted the power should still work from battery but its worth a try.

i always carry multiple chargers and dc-in boards for testing purposes

Hello Musicsoul78,

Thank's your reply. I tested the logic board with more original 60 W apple magsafes. The DC board is ok.

Musicsoul78
Oct 28, 2012, 12:10 PM
Hello Musicsoul78,

Thank's your reply. I tested the logic board with more original 60 W apple magsafes. The DC board is ok.

what if the power is being drained before it reaches g3hot in bursts ... ie corrosion on traces faulty switching diode the pulsing suggests it... is it being grounded properly?

i have no idea? i did see something like this back on this thread i think you need to go back and have a looksy

mactechsupport
Oct 28, 2012, 02:15 PM
Hello, I am currently working on a liquid damaged 2011 A1370. The symptoms are as follows,

Will not turn on
Green light on magsafe
Will not charge battery

I opened the unit and cleaned the small section on the logic board that had a sign of liquid contact. Only 1 liquid sensor was tripped on the logic board in that area. All others are intact as well as the ones on the battery. I replaced the dc in board with a spare with no change in symptoms. Does anyone know the location of any pins or pads that can be used to bypass the keyboard power button or smc circuit. Any help or schematic would be greatly appreciated.:cool:

Musicsoul78
Oct 28, 2012, 07:53 PM
Hello, I am currently working on a liquid damaged 2011 A1370. The symptoms are as follows,

Will not turn on
Green light on magsafe
Will not charge battery

I opened the unit and cleaned the small section on the logic board that had a sign of liquid contact. Only 1 liquid sensor was tripped on the logic board in that area. All others are intact as well as the ones on the battery. I replaced the dc in board with a spare with no change in symptoms. Does anyone know the location of any pins or pads that can be used to bypass the keyboard power button or smc circuit. Any help or schematic would be greatly appreciated.:cool:

get board view from here bro

http://www.im0575.com/apple-macbook-air-a1370-schematic-820-2796-k99.html


i could be wrong but i think its these 2

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Screen%20Shot%202012-10-29%20at%2001.00.01.png

get a multimeter and place on continuity then place a probe on each pad.

good luck

mactechsupport
Oct 29, 2012, 03:20 PM
get board view from here bro

http://www.im0575.com/apple-macbook-air-a1370-schematic-820-2796-k99.html


i could be wrong but i think its these 2

Image (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Screen%20Shot%202012-10-29%20at%2001.00.01.png)

get a multimeter and place on continuity then place a probe on each pad.

good luck



Thanks for the help... My board is different in the location of the pads but I did find a couple of pads in a few locations on the board. However none of them show 3.4v so I guess there must be something wrong elsewhere on the board. In my pic the green components next to the arrows I believe are fuses, on one of these I do not have any voltage. The round device on the bottom outputs 3.4v for the g3hot...? Can I jump a pin on the cable which goes to the trackpad or keyboard to try to start it?

:rolleyes:http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag89/mactechsupport/a1370/a1370fuses.jpg

Thank you for your help.

foxontherun
Oct 30, 2012, 07:16 AM
hello to all from Frankfurt - Germany.

First of all - I hope for all guys at the eastcoast, Storm 'Sandy' didn't affected you and your families personally!

Follow the sentence "Don't ask what the MacRumors Forum can do for you - ask what you can do for the MacRumors Forum!" - I will document my MBP 13 mid 2010 errors.

The MBP13 has bright green light on the Magsave. No boot, no boot by pass over SMC Control, no battery charge, no 3.42_High start by bridging contacts left near the keyboard.

Voltages on G3Hot 3.42, DCIN_CONN 18.5V, 5V at pin 19 VDD_ 20 VDDF on U7000 (ISL6259(A));~3,3V on Pin 14 CHRG ACOK (U7000); 18,5 V at the Drain on Q7030 (RJK0332) :) but :( --- only 1.6V at Gate and effluent 1.6 V at the Source of the Q7030. So the Gate and the Source has the same voltages and no regulations will be effected.

The Source will be regulated from the U7000 PIN 24 UGATE and just have 12,5V (when other signals/voltages ok) to flow to the System PPBUS_G3H and to charge the Battery by PPVBAT_G3H_CHGR_REG by Q7055 (SI7137).

Next step was to measure the resistance between Gate/Source of the Q7030 (RJK0332). Short curcuit! So far - so bad! :cool: Two possible causes: 1st. - short of the Q7030 (Gate/Source) or --- 2nd. short between Pin 23 PHASE and 24_CHRG_UGATE.

Now I have to order the RJK0332 and the RJK0305 (only for security reasons) and the ISL6259. The Solder out of the Q7030 will be not dramatic, but to solder out/in the U7000 this will be a challange! :o So I start to pray that the Q7030 is the bad causes.

Has anybody in the Forum experiences about this error and/or tips to desolder the U7000 by a hotair soldering station? I sold a new one, but my experiences are like a rookie.

Also is it hard to find an store to order the technical parts for the german/european market!?!? -- I will open a Webshop to sell these parts specially fr the Apple Macbooks. The post of my Webshop Adress will follow ... :) next time. :apple:

Also I will deliver a service to Protect the Macbook's from waterspill! It is unbelievable how many macusers spill fluids over there Macbook's - here in Germany we prefer to drinking the stuff ...!?! :D

Other Question: Has anybody of this friendly forum a 'board view' of the mid 2010 A1278 K6 (820-2879) !?

Thanks in advanced!

best regards and stay tuned on this professionall Forum - thanx to Dadioh, macrepair, cmdrdata and ... all others for her helpful inputs!

foxontherun

cmdrdata
Oct 30, 2012, 08:01 AM
hello to all from Frankfurt - Germany.

First of all - I hope for all guys at the eastcoast, Storm 'Sandy' didn't affected you and your families personally!

Follow the sentence "Don't ask what the MacRumors Forum can do for you - ask what you can do for the MacRumors Forum!" - I will document my MBP 13 mid 2010 errors.

The MBP13 has bright green light on the Magsave. No boot, no boot by pass over SMC Control, no battery charge, no 3.42_High start by bridging contacts left near the keyboard.

Voltages on G3Hot 3.42, DCIN_CONN 18.5V, 5V at pin 19 VDD_ 20 VDDF on U7000 (ISL6259(A));~3,3V on Pin 14 CHRG ACOK (U7000); 18,5 V at the Drain on Q7030 (RJK0332) :) but :( --- only 1.6V at Gate and effluent 1.6 V at the Source of the Q7030. So the Gate and the Source has the same voltages and no regulations will be effected.

The Source will be regulated from the U7000 PIN 24 UGATE and just have 12,5V (when other signals/voltages ok) to flow to the System PPBUS_G3H and to charge the Battery by PPVBAT_G3H_CHGR_REG by Q7055 (SI7137).

Next step was to measure the resistance between Gate/Source of the Q7030 (RJK0332). Short curcuit! So far - so bad! :cool: Two possible causes: 1st. - short of the Q7030 (Gate/Source) or --- 2nd. short between Pin 23 PHASE and 24_CHRG_UGATE.

Now I have to order the RJK0332 and the RJK0305 (only for security reasons) and the ISL6259. The Solder out of the Q7030 will be not dramatic, but to solder out/in the U7000 this will be a challange! :o So I start to pray that the Q7030 is the bad causes.

Has anybody in the Forum experiences about this error and/or tips to desolder the U7000 by a hotair soldering station? I sold a new one, but my experiences are like a rookie.

Also is it hard to find an store to order the technical parts for the german/european market!?!? -- I will open a Webshop to sell these parts specially fr the Apple Macbooks. The post of my Webshop Adress will follow ... :) next time. :apple:

Also I will deliver a service to Protect the Macbook's from waterspill! It is unbelievable how many macusers spill fluids over there Macbook's - here in Germany we prefer to drinking the stuff ...!?! :D

Other Question: Has anybody of this friendly forum a 'board view' of the mid 2010 A1278 K6 (820-2879) !?

Thanks in advanced!

best regards and stay tuned on this professionall Forum - thanx to Dadioh, macrepair, cmdrdata and ... all others for her helpful inputs!

foxontherun

Yes it seemed that GS voltages at Q7030 is bad. They should not be the same. Also check Q7035 voltages. From your description, it could also be bad/shorted. There will no charging activity until PPBUS_G3H can get to nominal 12v level, thus the reason for solid green on the magsafe. By the way, if you have magsafe LED green or orange, it is usually indicative that G3HOT is working. Exceptions are bad DCIN board or magsafe, bad SCL/SDA pull-up resistors or connection problem.

foxontherun
Oct 30, 2012, 09:08 AM
Yes it seemed that GS voltages at Q7030 is bad. They should not be the same. Also check Q7035 voltages. From your description, it could also be bad/shorted. There will no charging activity until PPBUS_G3H can get to nominal 12v level, thus the reason for solid green on the magsafe. By the way, if you have magsafe LED green or orange, it is usually indicative that G3HOT is working. Exceptions are bad DCIN board or magsafe, bad SCL/SDA pull-up resistors or connection problem.

hello cmdrdata, thanks for your input. The magsave LED shines bright and green. No orange light I have seen since I was work with defective MBP13's.:o By the way, DCIN board and the Magsave (orig. Apple) are new. The Q7035 was also in my assumption, but the Gate to Source has a high resistance. Also the Drain to Source and to Gate. In the detailed document of the ISL6259 the Pin24_UGATE and the Pin23_PHASE are regulated by the same regulator circuit inside of the ISL. So a short in this circuit looks like more technologic possible, I guess, when the Q7030 is not the troublemaker.

I have a second MBP mid2010 with an other power/charging error. (very dim green light). But first I will fix this MBP13, so the forum support will help to bring the Apple up and running.

regards

frodo837
Oct 30, 2012, 12:34 PM
Hi I have MBA A1369 (late 2010) Initially i have problem with vertical lines on LCD. I supposed it's LVDS cable,buyone at ebay, during replacing looks unfortunately I short something and now I didn't see backlight.
Could somebody advice where is backlight fuse or provide part LED driver schematic (Does it placed on logic board, or at LCD?)?

cmdrdata
Oct 30, 2012, 04:18 PM
hello cmdrdata, thanks for your input. The magsave LED shines bright and green. No orange light I have seen since I was work with defective MBP13's.:o By the way, DCIN board and the Magsave (orig. Apple) are new. The Q7035 was also in my assumption, but the Gate to Source has a high resistance. Also the Drain to Source and to Gate. In the detailed document of the ISL6259 the Pin24_UGATE and the Pin23_PHASE are regulated by the same regulator circuit inside of the ISL. So a short in this circuit looks like more technologic possible, I guess, when the Q7030 is not the troublemaker.

I have a second MBP mid2010 with an other power/charging error. (very dim green light). But first I will fix this MBP13, so the forum support will help to bring the Apple up and running.

regards

The issue of NOT getting PPBUS_G3H to generate 12v has been mentioned by many people here including U-234 who asked that question privately. I am responding here so others can benefit too. Here's a hand drawing of how it is SUPPOSED to work. So far, most Macs I saw in this forum have similar design, power wise. Basically, the raw DC from the magsafe (16-18v) is chopped by the two FET shown in the drawing so that they are alternately turning ON and OFF. If one looked at the junction of those two FET with the choke disconnected, it will looked like a square wave peaking at raw DCIN voltage (frequency at approx 400kHz), however, when the choke/resistor/capacitor is present, the square wave is then smoothed/filtered out to become DC voltage. The resultant voltage level is controlled by the ISL6258 or ISL6259 as it monitors the feedback signal and it then modifies the duty cycle (how long to turn the FETs on and off and thus you get 12v. If you are using just a voltmeter to measure the UGATE/LGATE signals you will not be able to see these pulses. If you are lucky enough to have an oscilloscope, you will be able to verify these pulses and its relationship to each other. Please note that if the system is operating on battery power only, the FETs are not even turned on since the ISL is not getting power from the magsafe. PPBUS-G3H is like the main artery in your body, it provides the main power to the system, but there are many smaller veins (other lower level voltages) that must also be present before the system can power up and boot. Oh, the sketch is a bit wrong the RC should be connected to the left of the choke, not the right side. Enjoy.

foxontherun
Oct 31, 2012, 07:19 AM
The issue of NOT getting PPBUS_G3H to generate 12v has been mentioned by many people here including U-234 who asked that question privately. I am responding here so others can benefit too. Here's a hand drawing of how it is SUPPOSED to work. So far, most Macs I saw in this forum have similar design, power wise. Basically, the raw DC from the magsafe (16-18v) is chopped by the two FET shown in the drawing so that they are alternately turning ON and OFF. If one looked at the junction of those two FET with the choke disconnected, it will looked like a square wave peaking at raw DCIN voltage (frequency at approx 400kHz), however, when the choke/resistor/capacitor is present, the square wave is then smoothed/filtered out to become DC voltage. The resultant voltage level is controlled by the ISL6258 or ISL6259 as it monitors the feedback signal and it then modifies the duty cycle (how long to turn the FETs on and off and thus you get 12v. If you are using just a voltmeter to measure the UGATE/LGATE signals you will not be able to see these pulses. If you are lucky enough to have an oscilloscope, you will be able to verify these pulses and its relationship to each other. Please note that if the system is operating on battery power only, the FETs are not even turned on since the ISL is not getting power from the magsafe. PPBUS-G3H is like the main artery in your body, it provides the main power to the system, but there are many smaller veins (other lower level voltages) that must also be present before the system can power up and boot. Oh, the sketch is a bit wrong the RC should be connected to the left of the choke, not the right side. Enjoy.

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation! - My fault to saw these curcuit and the generation of the 12,5V to simple. I'm on the wrong path. I kind the regulation of the 12,5V PPBUS_G3H was regulated by the Voltage at the Gate of the FET's.

Can anybody tell measuringme the resistance between Source/Gate of the Q7030? or is it normal to measure a short in both ways?

Dadioh
Oct 31, 2012, 07:56 AM
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation! - My fault to saw these curcuit and the generation of the 12,5V to simple. I'm on the wrong path. I kind the regulation of the 12,5V PPBUS_G3H was regulated by the Voltage at the Gate of the FET's.

Can anybody tell measuringme the resistance between Source/Gate of the Q7030? or is it normal to measure a short in both ways?

Measuring a short between gate and source is not right. A couple of things to consider however...

1) Since the FET's are a lot easier to remove and replace than the charger ISL6258/6259 I usually pull off the FET and see if the low resistance is still present. More often than not it is the charger device that has gone bad rather than the FET but by removing the FET you can confirm this.

2) If the board has been recently powered on then you can get erroneous low resistance measurements across the FET's. Because a resistance meter applies a voltage and then measures the subsequent current to calculate the resistance, it can get confused if there is any voltage left in the circuit. Unfortunately the 22uF cap on the output can hold a charge for some time affecting the measurement. Either wait long enough for it to discharge naturally or discharge it yourself, ideally using a resistor to prevent large current flow through the cap.

macattack600
Oct 31, 2012, 07:01 PM
G3hot good fuse good later shorted ISL6258 charging circuit I saw the battery indicator flash with no battery go back and forth went haywire with no battery in it now it won't come on think that's toast too.
Area around ISL6258 is very hot.


I see I can replace ISL6258 found on ebay but how much more does anyone think i've damaged to much to make it too much too fix. Any pointers in my next step ?

torontomac
Nov 1, 2012, 12:42 AM
anyone figure out how to reload the firmware
just got another board with the same problem :confused: now have 2 boards
13 i5 2.3
15 i7 2.2
both with bad firmware and have the continuous 9 beeps and I dont have spare boards to pull spi boot roms from, anyway to reprogram them or does anybody have dumps?

tkaz
Nov 2, 2012, 09:02 AM
Hi all,

I picked up a late 2011 2.4GHz i5 MacBook Pro (MD313LL/A) that had minor water damage. I am able to boot it up using a charged battery, but the computer won't recognize the charger.

I swapped in a known good Magsafe board, same results (no charge)

Is there an upstream fuse that may have blown on the board that would affect the charging circuit, or would this be a chip level repair?

Any help is appreciated, I can provide photos if required.

G35C
Nov 2, 2012, 11:14 PM
Wanted to see if anyone has some thoughts on this situation. I picked up a badly liquid damaged unit whose logic board was completely unrecoverable and in fact the liquid had even seeped into the display itself and ruined the LED panel. I replaced the logic board with one that I had already fixed and everything seemed fine except for the fact that as soon as I connected the magsafe the unit would boot up, not waiting for me to press the power button. Also, when selecting "shut down" from the apple menu it would shut down but then immediately restart.

So I put a second logic board in there and the behavior remains suggesting it is not the logic board. I thought maybe the power switch is a little intermittent so I took the cover off the back and inspected it. There was corrosion on the backplate that covers the switch but the switch itself seems like a sealed unit and is part of the keyboard itself so repair doesn't seem like an option.

So watcha think? Keyboard/power switch replacement? The only thing I could think of was intermittent power switch. Or is there some other possibility I am overlooking? Pulling the keyboard is a major PITA given the 4000 tiny screws required :)

Did you ever figure this one out? I have a mid2010 MBP 15" that is doing the same thing. As soon as you plug in the Magsafe, the laptop turns on!!

rickAC
Nov 3, 2012, 02:24 AM
Thanks.

Before I tell how it goes with my mbp I would like to ask you the following:
Do I need to have LCD connected to LB to be able to measure voltages at for. ex. LCD connector? I ask because all those lines that comes from U1400 MCP79 (GPU) like LVDS_IG_PANEL_PWR, LVDS_IG_A_CLK_N, LVDS_IG_A_CLK_P
and all data lines are 0v when lcd is not connected and lb is booted.

This mbp is really strange. I have checked and measured every possible lead from/ to LCD connector.
At last I removed WLED driver and it makes no difference. Mbp shuts down with lcd connected. Without LCD it seems to boot ok, chime is heard).
Then it led me to other rails. PP3V3_LCDVDD_SW_F (pin 2&3 in LCD connector) 0v. It comes from U9000 > L9004.
LVDS_IG_PANEL_PWR (U9000) is 0v while vin_1 and vin_2 are 3,3v but resistance here is only 180ohm. It comes from U7200 (PP3V3_S5_REG). Is 180ohm normal or could it be the why mbp shuts down?

regards

I found out that PP3V3_LCDVDD_SW_F line is causing the mbp to shut down by removing L9004. By removing it the mbp runs but nothing comes on display. It is not shorted. So the question is can something be done about this? If backlight IC is bad, can it be the indirect cause?
And I thought about LCD. I am not sure if those two lcd I have are 100% for my mbp 13" 2009. With other words are 2009 and 2010 lcd's compatible?

with kind regards

Dadioh
Nov 3, 2012, 08:13 AM
Did you ever figure this one out? I have a mid2010 MBP 15" that is doing the same thing. As soon as you plug in the Magsafe, the laptop turns on!!

Turned out that it was the wifi card in the hinge. Replaced it and this behavior stopped. Maybe something to do with "wake on LAN" was all I could figure out. The wifi card is in the garbage and the new one is working happily.

U-234
Nov 3, 2012, 12:57 PM
Hi all,

I picked up a late 2011 2.4GHz i5 MacBook Pro (MD313LL/A) that had minor water damage. I am able to boot it up using a charged battery, but the computer won't recognize the charger.

I swapped in a known good Magsafe board, same results (no charge)

Is there an upstream fuse that may have blown on the board that would affect the charging circuit, or would this be a chip level repair?

Any help is appreciated, I can provide photos if required.

I'm having similar problem after restoring some of the voltages to normal.

Early 2011 2.3GHz i5 13"

The unit powers on the battery only, Megsafe solid green (my PPBus_G3H is only 4V)

The first thing to check is what are you getting on PPBus_G3H with DCIN only, it should be 12V.

Musicsoul78
Nov 4, 2012, 01:24 PM
Hi I have MBA A1369 (late 2010) Initially i have problem with vertical lines on LCD. I supposed it's LVDS cable,buyone at ebay, during replacing looks unfortunately I short something and now I didn't see backlight.
Could somebody advice where is backlight fuse or provide part LED driver schematic (Does it placed on logic board, or at LCD?)?

here you go follow these pic to show you location of 402 fuse
mac sue battery and ,magsafe is disconnected

http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=373103&d=1351478438
http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=373105&d=1351478464

Rpg16
Nov 6, 2012, 10:09 AM
Hi,
I have an issue with the first generation unibody 13" macbook pro and thought you might be able to help me.
The laptop is not turning on, it has all the neccessary currents, the green led is lighting up on magsafe and 3.4v appears on power switch (and properly disappears when pressing power). Pressing the power switch only makes the fans twitch once, nothing else.
I have tried all the smc/pram resets and much else (i am ACMT myself).
Would appreciate if you'd point me somewhere.

duffman13015
Nov 7, 2012, 11:24 AM
Hello evrybody,
I have a macbook pro unibody 13" dead (led stay black on magsafe)
I can't turn on the computer with battery or with power connected.
I have the 16,5V on some component on the logic board, but i don't have the 3,425V on the out of LT3470.

If i put this voltage with a generator on the G3HOT line, the macbook goes to start?

I have tested a lot of component arround the regulator LT3470 and it's look like good.

My fuses are good too.

For information, it's a 820-2530-A logic board. And where I can find the ship LT3470, please?

Thank you.

PS: Sorry for my English :)

frodo837
Nov 7, 2012, 01:48 PM
here you go follow these pic to show you location of 402 fuse
mac sue battery and ,magsafe is disconnected

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=373103&d=1351478438)
Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=373105&d=1351478464)

Just found picture of same a1369 in nearest topic (http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php?p=15885894&postcount=900)
do I need take more hi-res photo? or take picture of backside?

http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=363927&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1348735129 largeImage (http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=363927&d=1348735129)

Musicsoul78
Nov 7, 2012, 07:30 PM
Just found picture of same a1369 in nearest topic (http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php?p=15885894&postcount=900)
do I need take more hi-res photo? or take picture of backside?

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=363927&d=1348735129) largeImage

frodo my bad... photo i posted was for a mb unibody white 13

your pic was great but could not see fuse please take more of whole board front and back thanks

mac-n-sauce
Nov 7, 2012, 07:42 PM
Anyone have any experience fixing bad head phone jack?
I have two computers back to back both work fine except when you plug in headphones you get no sound. It just keeps using the computer speakers.
Yes the headphones do work.

duffman13015
Nov 8, 2012, 11:09 AM
Hello,

Finally, my macbook have the LT3470 dead!!!!
I try with a laboratory power and it's work!

Thank you

Musicsoul78
Nov 8, 2012, 07:05 PM
Anyone have any experience fixing bad head phone jack?
I have two computers back to back both work fine except when you plug in headphones you get no sound. It just keeps using the computer speakers.
Yes the headphones do work.

do you mean to say the switching mechanism is shot in the jack....

can you see the sound jack port come up in the sound preferences
i know there is contact sense lines 2 bands and 1 pin inside the jack if thats the culprit it needs to be replaced!
... how to... is the question?

----------

Hello,

Finally, my macbook have the LT3470 dead!!!!
I try with a laboratory power and it's work!

Thank you

http://www.linear.com/product/LT3470A

this is what you need to buy

this is the chip that needs replacing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/imayne/6263277933/

duffman13015
Nov 9, 2012, 02:29 AM
do you mean to say the switching mechanism is shot in the jack....

can you see the sound jack port come up in the sound preferences
i know there is contact sense lines 2 bands and 1 pin inside the jack if thats the culprit it needs to be replaced!
... how to... is the question?

----------



http://www.linear.com/product/LT3470A

this is what you need to buy

this is the chip that needs replacing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/imayne/6263277933/

Thank You. Do you have a methode for replace? I try with a heat gun.

kennethf
Nov 9, 2012, 01:36 PM
Hello

I am working on a liquide damage macbook pro, I have got the G3Hot to work but there is something not working. The macbook charge the battery good.
Hope some of you can help me out to continue to resolve this problem why it wont start. :)

PS when I try to do SMC bypass then I get dim green light.
If I reset the SMC then its back to normal bright green.

Dadioh
Nov 10, 2012, 07:03 AM
I found out that PP3V3_LCDVDD_SW_F line is causing the mbp to shut down by removing L9004. By removing it the mbp runs but nothing comes on display. It is not shorted. So the question is can something be done about this? If backlight IC is bad, can it be the indirect cause?
And I thought about LCD. I am not sure if those two lcd I have are 100% for my mbp 13" 2009. With other words are 2009 and 2010 lcd's compatible?

with kind regards

I just fixed a tricky liquid spill MBP13 2010 with a related issue. I was getting no display and no backlight. I had already ultrasonic cleaned the board and everything looked good. During troubleshooting I found that 3.3V was not making it to pin 4 which meant tha the LCD panel was unpowered. That in turn, was detected by the MCP and it refused to enable the backlight. It appeared that L9004 was open circuit but when I eventually found it that was not the case. So when probing pin 4 of the connector I noticed that it moved.... Not good. I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.

The reason for the long story is that the graphics detected that the panel was not powered and was smart enough to disable backlight. That suggests some sort of communication between the panel and the logic board. In your case, when you remove L9004 you are effectively powering down the LCD panel which suggests that either the logic board does not like something about the panel, or, as you suggested, maybe it is drawing too much current from the 3.3V rail causing the non-boot. You have tried two different panels and it still occurs? That suggests maybe pin 4 is compromised. Maybe shorted to adjacent pin? I would compare resistance measurements on pin 4 to a known good board.

Richard-m
Nov 11, 2012, 02:44 AM
... I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.


What are the best techniques and tools for removing and replacing the LVDS connector? I have just done one with a soldering iron, but I had to melt the connector bit by bit to get it off. It took some time, but I do now have a working screen. I am new to hot air rework, and I couldn't get enough heat to the connector using the rework machine.

Richard

Dadioh
Nov 11, 2012, 07:41 AM
What are the best techniques and tools for removing and replacing the LVDS connector? I have just done one with a soldering iron, but I had to melt the connector bit by bit to get it off. It took some time, but I do now have a working screen. I am new to hot air rework, and I couldn't get enough heat to the connector using the rework machine.

Richard

I remove the connector with the hot air tool. It destroys the connector in the process but I am replacing it anyway. Then clean off the solder from all the pins and the ground pad. This is important because the connector needs to sit flat when you solder the new one. Leaving solder bumps will not allow it to sit in place properly. Apply flux to all pads. Place the new connector. Tack the connector in place at either end. I tack the two ground connections. Then you patiently solder each pin. Finally run a bead along the ground on the leading edge and at either side. Clean up the flux with a brush and isopropyl alcohol.

I recommend checking the connections carefully to make sure ou have not bridged any pins.

Richard-m
Nov 11, 2012, 03:20 PM
I remove the connector with the hot air tool. It destroys the connector in the process but I am replacing it anyway. Then clean off the solder from all the pins and the ground pad. This is important because the connector needs to sit flat when you solder the new one. Leaving solder bumps will not allow it to sit in place properly. Apply flux to all pads. Place the new connector. Tack the connector in place at either end. I tack the two ground connections. Then you patiently solder each pin. Finally run a bead along the ground on the leading edge and at either side. Clean up the flux with a brush and isopropyl alcohol.

I recommend checking the connections carefully to make sure ou have not bridged any pins.

Thanks Dadioh. Sounds like I need to be a bit bolder with the hot air tool. I managed to destroy the old connector with the soldering iron, but I was lucky not to lift any tracks. After that, I was on the same steps as your process.

Musicsoul78
Nov 11, 2012, 08:17 PM
can any one help with this part


where can i buy these from?

and what are they called?

thanks guys

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Photo%2012-11-2012%2002%2013%2028.jpg

Dadioh
Nov 11, 2012, 08:35 PM
can any one help with this part


where can i buy these from?

and what are they called?

thanks guys

Image (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Photo%2012-11-2012%2002%2013%2028.jpg)

Looks like a tantulum capacitor. Maybe 33uF based on the markings? If you have any spare part boards I would pull one off the same spot you got that one.

rickAC
Nov 12, 2012, 01:00 PM
I just fixed a tricky liquid spill MBP13 2010 with a related issue. I was getting no display and no backlight. I had already ultrasonic cleaned the board and everything looked good. During troubleshooting I found that 3.3V was not making it to pin 4 which meant tha the LCD panel was unpowered. That in turn, was detected by the MCP and it refused to enable the backlight. It appeared that L9004 was open circuit but when I eventually found it that was not the case. So when probing pin 4 of the connector I noticed that it moved.... Not good. I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.

The reason for the long story is that the graphics detected that the panel was not powered and was smart enough to disable backlight. That suggests some sort of communication between the panel and the logic board. In your case, when you remove L9004 you are effectively powering down the LCD panel which suggests that either the logic board does not like something about the panel, or, as you suggested, maybe it is drawing too much current from the 3.3V rail causing the non-boot. You have tried two different panels and it still occurs? That suggests maybe pin 4 is compromised. Maybe shorted to adjacent pin? I would compare resistance measurements on pin 4 to a known good board.

Thanks.
I don't know if LCD connector in your your model is wired differently than mine (13" unibody, A1278, K24) but the problem is not pin 4 on LCD connector. It is pin 2 and 3 where I do not get 3,3V via L9004. Does it make a difference in relation to your measurements?

Musicsoul78
Nov 12, 2012, 01:09 PM
Looks like a tantulum capacitor. Maybe 33uF based on the markings? If you have any spare part boards I would pull one off the same spot you got that one.

yeah thought of that already... no spare boards as yet thanks for the id ... very helpfull as always!;)

paolo8721
Nov 12, 2012, 03:07 PM
Early 2011 2.3GHz i5 13"...

At last - talk of a 2011 MBP :) There seems to be a lack of information for the newer models...

I'm getting a green light at the magsafe but no charging and no power/boot.

I've got a 2011 2.4 i7 17" with light water damage. It's been into Apple - still under Apple Care - but obviously they won't touch it. Logic board has been cleaned and is spotless as far as I can see.

So - I've nothing to loose as I can't find anyone in the UK that does board level repairs...



First question - if anyone knows - are there any jumper pads on a 2011 ? I've tried jumping it at the ribbon connector but no go. The voltage does not go to zero when pressing the power button.


The voltages at the DC in board are 19.39 and 3.95.

The battery terminals are reading 4 volts - that's the 4th and 6th terminals


Should I proceed with diagnosis - as a bit of a newbie - or wait until I can find someone to fix it?

Thanks for your help


Paolo

palych
Nov 12, 2012, 08:31 PM
The parts you are looking for are located on the bottom of the board. This is the side you can see when you take the bottom case off the computer. They are located 1.5" left of the lcd connector near the top edge of the computer which is the north side if the battery is the south.

Thank you, mac-n-sauce.
Now I can show measurements (Magsafe / Battery / Magsafe+Battery):

Magsafe has no light. Blinks once amber when connected. Out put voltage - 16.75 V.

LT3470:
Pin 1: 0.19 / 0.56 / 0.56 V
Pin 3: 0.50 / 0.67 / 0.67 V
Pin 4: 0.60 / 0.80 / 0.80 V

R6995 - 142 Ohm
R6996 - 133 Ohm

C6994 - missing (may be lost during clean up)

ISL6258:
Pin 2: 16.75 / 10.46 / 16.58 V
Pins 10, 11: 0.59 / 0.80 / 0.80 V
Pin 14: 0.40 / 0.0 / 0.55 V
Pin 27: 16.75 / 11.12 / 16.75 V

Battery connector:
Pin 4, 6: 0.80 V
Pin 5: 0.20 V
Pins 7-9: 11.64 V

G3HOT: 0.58 / 0.80 / 0.80 V

Q7055:
Pins 1-3, 5-8: 0.0 / 11.64 / 11.64 V
Pins 4: 0.0 / 8.21 / 8.21 V

F7040 is OK

MOFSETs Q7030 and Q7035:
1. next to memory: D-G and D-S impedance - 205 k
Pins 1-4:0.0 / 0.0 / 0.0 V
Pins 5-8: 1.30 / 11.64 / 11.64 V
2. far from memory: D-G and D-S impedance - 602 k
Pins 1-4: 1.30 / 11.64 / 11.64 V
Pins 5-8: 16.75 / 11.12 / 16.75 V

Base on that information, what are my next steps to correct problem

Thank you

debo160
Nov 13, 2012, 08:34 AM
I picked this pro up a few weeks back. The computer would boot off the short pins. After fixing the pins replacing the keyboard connector the board will not do anything? Im thinking maybe the board is shorted with in the connector. Any advise would be highly appreciated. Thanks. And thanks to everyone who is on this page. The questions and answers here all help. :)

frodo837
Nov 13, 2012, 09:03 AM
frodo my bad... photo i posted was for a mb unibody white 13

your pic was great but could not see fuse please take more of whole board front and back thanks
Just had chance to take picture of backside, unfortunately my camera not so good. Please let me know if you necessary more quality images, I will try take another picture by EOS.

chex
Nov 13, 2012, 10:38 AM
Hi, I was hoping you could help me out. I tried your SMC bypass method as well as the one on Apple's site but couldn't get it to boot.

Here's what happened: I needed to charge a battery for my torch (18650 battery) but forgot the AC power cable at home. The charger has a USB jack in it next to AC in so I figured it could charge the battery via the laptop. Wake laptop from sleep, plug in magsafe, all I remember seeing on the screen was "(Not Charging)" next to the battery, but that's normal for when i first plug it in. Plug in charger to USB, screen goes dead, laptop is off and doesn't boot. No green lights when I push the battery status button on the side of the laptop, magsafe is showing dim green/flashing amber. My friend's magsafe (2012 MB Air) shows dim green always (mine is from an older model, 2009 I think - I prefer the old design).

Model is mid-2011 13" Macbook Pro.

I opened it up and it seemed like there was something sticky on the small circuit board where the the magsafe connects, cleaned that with a plastic brush and electrical contact cleaner. No change.

While the cost of a new laptop is annoying the saddest thing is having to leave Snow Leopard argh =(

Musicsoul78
Nov 13, 2012, 03:41 PM
Just had chance to take picture of backside, unfortunately my camera not so good. Please let me know if you necessary more quality images, I will try take another picture by EOS.

2nd picture on the right ... next to the green fuse there is a small resistor or fuse with a n on it can you take a real clear picture of that please.

----------

----------
I NEED HELP WITH THIS PLEASE

MB 13 ALUMINUM 2008

DEad BOard... is mint though

No POWER att all or at DC in Board
pins
1 0
2 0.59
3 0
4 0.59
5 0

changed 6 different dc boards all new

changed 4 different mag safes

still no power going to board any ideas what is causing this ????

something is telling the magsafe that something is wrong and not to release full voltage ... but what???

need an expert to teach me!

urbi
Nov 13, 2012, 07:59 PM
1. System won't turn on because 1. battery is totally depleted and the magsafe is good but when connected, the LED stays dark (no green or orange).
2. When a charged battery is put in, the system will turn on but no charging take place. System will not turn on with magsafe alone (battery taken out).
3.Once it is powered on with Battery and Macsafe plugged in, i can remove the Battery and the System
continues running. (still no green light)
4. DCIN board is ok
5. Chgr_acok with 3.4 V
6. also cleaned it completly
7. tried the smc reset

Did anyone fixed that Problem before?

For me it is a mid 2010 with a bit of water spilled into the back.


Would be nice if someone could help me with that problem !

frodo837
Nov 14, 2012, 08:14 AM
2nd picture on the right ... next to the green fuse there is a small resistor or fuse with a n on it can you take a real clear picture of that please.[COLOR="#808080"]

checked mentioned "n" resistor it's show zero. add some more picture .
As I understand backlight driver is on backside and it's lp8545.
1. Is my understanding correct that VIN(23)pin should be connected by some fuse to "square inductive" which below green fuse on front side?

paolo8721
Nov 15, 2012, 03:48 AM
Thought I'd try again to get an answer to this.

There seems to be a serious lack of information on the later MBPs. Does anyone have experience with 2011/2012 machines?

Would it help if I take some detailed pics? Should I start a new thread?

Any information is greatly appreciated.

mac-n-sauce
Nov 15, 2012, 07:42 PM
Thought I'd try again to get an answer to this.

There seems to be a serious lack of information on the later MBPs. Does anyone have experience with 2011/2012 machines?

Would it help if I take some detailed pics? Should I start a new thread?

Any information is greatly appreciated.

They have not changed drastically until you get to the new 2012 15" retina display.
You should probably state the problem.

paolo8721
Nov 16, 2012, 04:39 AM
You should probably state the problem.


Already have but no one replied - hence the 'trying again' to get more info.

Can anyone tell me where the jumper pads are on a 2011/2012 17" i7 2.4 MacBook Pro?


'm getting a green light at the magsafe but no charging and no power/boot.

The voltages at the 'DC in' board are 19.39 and 3.95.

The battery board terminals are reading 4 volts - that's the 4th and 6th terminals

Should I proceed with diagnosis - as a bit of a newbie - or wait until I can find someone to fix it?

Cheers.

Musicsoul78
Nov 16, 2012, 08:26 PM
Already have but no one replied - hence the 'trying again' to get more info.

Can anyone tell me where the jumper pads are on a 2011/2012 17" i7 2.4 MacBook Pro?


'm getting a green light at the magsafe but no charging and no power/boot.

The voltages at the 'DC in' board are 19.39 and 3.95.

The battery board terminals are reading 4 volts - that's the 4th and 6th terminals

Should I proceed with diagnosis - as a bit of a newbie - or wait until I can find someone to fix it?

Cheers.

get as scematic and find out what the voltages need to be first
then you start to work on fault line.. those values seem high anyway

Musicsoul78
Nov 16, 2012, 09:46 PM
http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=289271&d=1307906684

where can i buy these fuses from ?:D

thanks guys

Richard-m
Nov 17, 2012, 02:12 AM
Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=289271&d=1307906684)

where can i buy these fuses from ?:D

thanks guys

Last year, I bought these from:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1843812

Musicsoul78
Nov 17, 2012, 05:58 AM
last year, i bought these from:
http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1843812

thanks man perfect

Musicsoul78
Nov 17, 2012, 09:46 AM
i also got a 2011 i5 mint condition only problem is when i unplug the mag safe power it goes really slow.
so battery power = slow mac
powered mac = fast mac
is it
graphics related??? not enough power from battery to the gpu or cpu???. all apps load fine and full functionality just a 100x slower than normal takes minutes to boot instead of seconds. as soon as magsafe is plugged in full speed is restored instantly.

specs
8gb ram
Brand: Apple
Release Year: 2011
Release Month: February
Product Family: MacBook Pro
Screen Size: 13.3"
Memory: 8 GB
Hard Drive Capacity: 80 GB
Processor Type: Intel Core i5
Processor Speed: 2.3 GHz
MPN: MC700B/A

thanks to all that help

paolo8721
Nov 17, 2012, 10:32 AM
get as scematic and find out what the voltages need to be first
then you start to work on fault line.. those values seem high anyway

Really!? Well that was a helpful reply...

This is why I'm asking for any help and information - I cant find a schematic or any other information specifically for a 2011/2012 i7 MBP.

Rather than just saying you think the values are high - can you tell me what they should be? Can you suggest where I can get a schematic?

U-234
Nov 17, 2012, 12:54 PM
I just fixed a tricky liquid spill MBP13 2010 with a related issue. I was getting no display and no backlight. I had already ultrasonic cleaned the board and everything looked good. During troubleshooting I found that 3.3V was not making it to pin 4 which meant tha the LCD panel was unpowered. That in turn, was detected by the MCP and it refused to enable the backlight. It appeared that L9004 was open circuit but when I eventually found it that was not the case. So when probing pin 4 of the connector I noticed that it moved.... Not good. I removed the lvds connector and the trace from pin 4 to the vias under the connector was corroded open. I repaired the trace and put on a new lvds connector and it works fine now.

The reason for the long story is that the graphics detected that the panel was not powered and was smart enough to disable backlight. That suggests some sort of communication between the panel and the logic board. In your case, when you remove L9004 you are effectively powering down the LCD panel which suggests that either the logic board does not like something about the panel, or, as you suggested, maybe it is drawing too much current from the 3.3V rail causing the non-boot. You have tried two different panels and it still occurs? That suggests maybe pin 4 is compromised. Maybe shorted to adjacent pin? I would compare resistance measurements on pin 4 to a known good board.

Hi Dadioh, thanks for sharing that success story! I have a question for you in regards to the ultrasonic cleaner which I think is a great idea to professionally remove all the crap out of your LB. Back to my question did you dip in the whole LB or just part of it. The reason why I'm asking is because the memory slot part has some original stickers like SN and so. Did you clean the whole thing including the stickers or you tried to remove it.

There are screws that attach the memory slot it looks like it can be removed but when you look closer you see the solder pins that attach the memory slot to the rest of the LB. Just wondering how you approach that when you do your LB cleaning using ultrasonic method. Thanks

lee303
Nov 17, 2012, 01:37 PM
i also got a 2011 i5 mint condition only problem is when i unplug the mag safe power it goes really slow.
so battery power = slow mac
powered mac = fast mac
is it
graphics related??? not enough power from battery to the gpu or cpu???. all apps load fine and full functionality just a 100x slower than normal takes minutes to boot instead of seconds. as soon as magsafe is plugged in full speed is restored instantly.

specs
8gb ram
Brand: Apple
Release Year: 2011
Release Month: February
Product Family: MacBook Pro
Screen Size: 13.3"
Memory: 8 GB
Hard Drive Capacity: 80 GB
Processor Type: Intel Core i5
Processor Speed: 2.3 GHz
MPN: MC700B/A

thanks to all that help



Having the exact same issue. ASD fails on VP0R sensor. Kernal_mode task runs at 280% when power adapter is removed.

Any idea which component is at fault?

- Lee

Musicsoul78
Nov 17, 2012, 01:55 PM
Having the exact same issue. ASD fails on VP0R sensor. Kernal_mode task runs at 280% when power adapter is removed.

Any idea which component is at fault?

- Lee

There was only one component that Had slight bit of corrosion which was north east of the fan
A tiny little fet six pins in total. The rest of board was clean and undamadged.
These fet pin were half the size of a a402 fuse and managed to resolder . But not known good!!
I can't get a multimeter on it as pins are too small

lee303
Nov 17, 2012, 02:04 PM
I'll have a look when i'm back in on Monday, and let you know how it goes. I'll check that fet and get back to you.

Dadioh
Nov 17, 2012, 08:24 PM
Hi Dadioh, thanks for sharing that success story! I have a question for you in regards to the ultrasonic cleaner which I think is a great idea to professionally remove all the crap out of your LB. Back to my question did you dip in the whole LB or just part of it. The reason why I'm asking is because the memory slot part has some original stickers like SN and so. Did you clean the whole thing including the stickers or you tried to remove it.

There are screws that attach the memory slot it looks like it can be removed but when you look closer you see the solder pins that attach the memory slot to the rest of the LB. Just wondering how you approach that when you do your LB cleaning using ultrasonic method. Thanks

I just clean the whole board. The stickers don't seem to detach.

Richard-m
Nov 18, 2012, 06:00 AM
I just clean the whole board. The stickers don't seem to detach.

Does anyone have recommendations for a compact ultrasonic cleaner that can take the Macbook range of logic boards? From Internet searches, it looks like you have to go for quite large cleaners to fit the boards.

Richard

lee303
Nov 18, 2012, 06:51 AM
Does anyone have recommendations for a compact ultrasonic cleaner that can take the Macbook range of logic boards? From Internet searches, it looks like you have to go for quite large cleaners to fit the boards.

Richard


I've been using a 10L ultrasonic cleaner, fits the MBP board perfectly.

Does anyone have the a1278 boardview file at all?

Musicsoul78
Nov 18, 2012, 01:12 PM
I've been using a 10L ultrasonic cleaner, fits the MBP board perfectly.

Does anyone have the a1278 boardview file at all?

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/apple_macbook_pro_13_a1278_mlb_k24_rev_a_sch.pdf

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/MBP%2013%20i5%20A1278(1).pdf

how about these ??

Musicsoul78
Nov 18, 2012, 01:36 PM
Really!? Well that was a helpful reply...

This is why I'm asking for any help and information - I cant find a schematic or any other information specifically for a 2011/2012 i7 MBP.

Rather than just saying you think the values are high - can you tell me what they should be? Can you suggest where I can get a schematic?

Paolo
first of all i am sorry that my answer came across vague but it was i did not have enough time to type essay. but merely to inform you of what was needed. factual

Remember We are trying to help brother please save you sarcasm for someone who actually cares what "paolo" thinks!

as for your mac if indeed it is an i7 and you know the difference between a macbook and a gameboy?

the i7 unibody released Model A1297 / 2.2 or 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7 processor
Apple MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.4 17" Late 2011 Specs

Identifiers: Late 2011 17" - MD311LL/A - MacBookPro8,3 - A1297 - 2564*

as for a boardview well i put this model number in google and look what i found?? (sarcasm) not needed
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/8355/

and in future show a little decorum when you enter forums and people will help you...but not when "Paolo" feels like it ! but when members get a few mins to spare and help others. there are loads of posts i have posted that have not been answered but that does not stop me from re-posting or starting new threads.

when you get all this info together show your findings and i will gladly help when i get a few mins bearing in mind that my electrical engineering knowledge is limited. but im sure others will pitch in where i fail.;)

Warmest Regards
Musicsoul78

lee303
Nov 19, 2012, 04:18 AM
Just to confirm, replaced the chip as you identified, and problem solved! One of the legs was corroded, but was barely visible to the eye.

Thankyou for your help!

paolo8721
Nov 19, 2012, 07:37 AM
Paolo
first of all i am sorry that my answer came across vague but it was i did not have enough time to type essay. but merely to inform you of what was needed. factual

Remember We are trying to help brother please save you sarcasm for someone who actually cares what "paolo" thinks!

as for your mac if indeed it is an i7 and you know the difference between a macbook and a gameboy?

the i7 unibody released Model A1297 / 2.2 or 2.3 GHz Intel Core i7 processor
Apple MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.4 17" Late 2011 Specs

Identifiers: Late 2011 17" - MD311LL/A - MacBookPro8,3 - A1297 - 2564*

as for a boardview well i put this model number in google and look what i found?? (sarcasm) not needed
http://laptop-schematics.com/view/8355/

and in future show a little decorum when you enter forums and people will help you...but not when "Paolo" feels like it ! but when members get a few mins to spare and help others. there are loads of posts i have posted that have not been answered but that does not stop me from re-posting or starting new threads.

when you get all this info together show your findings and i will gladly help when i get a few mins bearing in mind that my electrical engineering knowledge is limited. but im sure others will pitch in where i fail.;)

Warmest Regards
Musicsoul78

I'll be a bit more succinct in my reply.

On second thoughts I might get kicked off the forum...

bosna1973
Nov 19, 2012, 08:39 AM
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/3348/g3hotlocation.jpgi have a water damaged a1278 Macbook Pro.
AC Adapter has slight green light.
Temporary SMC bypass boots machine: Yes
Battery' Not charging
Can you point me in the right direction, here is picture what I tested

aqibi2000
Nov 19, 2012, 03:03 PM
1. System won't turn on because 1. battery is totally depleted and the magsafe is good but when connected, the LED stays dark (no green or orange).
2. When a charged battery is put in, the system will turn on but no charging take place. System will not turn on with magsafe alone (battery taken out).
3.Once it is powered on with Battery and Macsafe plugged in, i can remove the Battery and the System
continues running. (still no green light)
4. DCIN board is ok
5. Chgr_acok with 3.4 V
6. also cleaned it completly
7. tried the smc reset

Did anyone fixed that Problem before?

For me it is a mid 2010 with a bit of water spilled into the back.


Would be nice if someone could help me with that problem !

I have exactly the same symptoms on a 2010 A1278 13' Macbook Pro also.
Please can somebody assist us.

Musicsoul78
Nov 19, 2012, 03:45 PM
Just to confirm, replaced the chip as you identified, and problem solved! One of the legs was corroded, but was barely visible to the eye.

Thankyou for your help!
Glad i could help buddy

thats fantastic could you tell me where i can purchase that part please.

many thanks

also what values were u getting from all 6 good pins please

Musicsoul78
Nov 19, 2012, 04:02 PM
I have exactly the same symptoms on a 2010 A1278 13' Macbook Pro also.
Please can somebody assist us.

check the 2a fuses
check post #1080
big white ones on logic board

or this chip check post
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/chip%20location.png


make sure they are not blown.

then check the pin read out on the intersil charging chip.
its the one north of battery connector

or it could be the sense line



or it could be the

Musicsoul78
Nov 19, 2012, 05:12 PM
please can some one identify this part many thanks
please check post #1082 for reference to location on board
NE of fan

:D

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Screen%20Shot%202012-11-19%20at%2023.16.03.png

lee303
Nov 20, 2012, 04:17 PM
I'll get this information for you tomorrow :) I got the component off of an doner board. I can get hold of the component for you if you like.

Lee

Musicsoul78
Nov 20, 2012, 05:17 PM
I'll get this information for you tomorrow :) I got the component off of an doner board. I can get hold of the component for you if you like.

Lee

thats very kind of you lee .... thats too much to ask though;)

just the part number please...

i tried resoldering part and contacts look good i think

but still problem persists

CandyJones
Nov 20, 2012, 06:57 PM
Hi I'm new here and my problem appears to resemble what is being discussed. MacBook Pro 15' 6,2. It powers up and works fine but won't charge (no green light). Tried another MagSafe, same symptom. I measured the voltages at the five pins on the DC in board and nothing shows there with magsafe plugged in or as it's being connected. Cleaned the pins on magsafe and also sockets in the connector itself. Does anyone think this is DC in board problem or the logic board? Ta, for any suggestions.

Dadioh
Nov 21, 2012, 12:17 PM
Hi I'm new here and my problem appears to resemble what is being discussed. MacBook Pro 15' 6,2. It powers up and works fine but won't charge (no green light). Tried another MagSafe, same symptom. I measured the voltages at the five pins on the DC in board and nothing shows there with magsafe plugged in or as it's being connected. Cleaned the pins on magsafe and also sockets in the connector itself. Does anyone think this is DC in board problem or the logic board? Ta, for any suggestions.

You should be seeing voltages on 3 of the 5 DC-in board pins. The middle pin is the signal to the magsafe adapter that tells it to send full current. It should be about 3.4V (approximately) when working correctly. The other 4 pins are a pair of grounds and a pair of power pins (about 16 to 18V). You should see the 16V even if the center pin is not 3.4V.

If you can get hold of another DC-in board that would tell you if that is the problem but it sounds like it is the case.

CandyJones
Nov 21, 2012, 05:54 PM
Thanks - I was measuring voltages using red on the five pins (each in turn) with black on the bare metal surrounding each black screw on the DC in board. I got no voltage at all on any of the five pins. That's how you would measure it right? So it looks like a DC in board problem...

Musicsoul78
Nov 21, 2012, 06:49 PM
Thanks - I was measuring voltages using red on the five pins (each in turn) with black on the bare metal surrounding each black screw on the DC in board. I got no voltage at all on any of the five pins. That's how you would measure it right? So it looks like a DC in board problem...

remove dc in board plug magsafe into board

you should read left to right
0,
4.7,
0,
4.7,
0

here is my good dc-in board

CandyJones
Nov 21, 2012, 08:52 PM
I got: -0.3V,0,0,0.-0.3V with DC-in board disconnected and magsafe plugged into it.

Faulty DC-in board?

burton420
Nov 21, 2012, 09:36 PM
i have read this entire post with much interest. i have worked on many macbooks, replacing parts here and there to make them work, but i have never gone so far as working on the actual electronics, testing components, fuses, voltages etc.., so please bare with me...i have many questions.

i picked up a multimeter and have tried to test some points on the a1278 board i have, but i am not sure i am even using the multimeter correctly. the only reading i get on the dc in board is 0.11 when the multimeter is set to the V~ , 20m setting.

Dadioh, when you test boards outside of the machine, where to you put your ground?

thank you all for your wisdom, i have been in awe reading the amount of knowledge put out on this forum. if there are any suggestions learning resources on the net i would be very interested. thanks again.

Musicsoul78
Nov 22, 2012, 07:00 PM
I got: -0.3V,0,0,0.-0.3V with DC-in board disconnected and magsafe plugged into it.

Faulty DC-in board?

i cant be 100% sure as i cant see how your testing it but it looks that way!

never mind 15 part and your good to go. :D

----------

i have read this entire post with much interest. i have worked on many macbooks, replacing parts here and there to make them work, but i have never gone so far as working on the actual electronics, testing components, fuses, voltages etc.., so please bare with me...i have many questions.

i picked up a multimeter and have tried to test some points on the a1278 board i have, but i am not sure i am even using the multimeter correctly. the only reading i get on the dc in board is 0.11 when the multimeter is set to the V~ , 20m setting.

Dadioh, when you test boards outside of the machine, where to you put your ground?

thank you all for your wisdom, i have been in awe reading the amount of knowledge put out on this forum. if there are any suggestions learning resources on the net i would be very interested. thanks again.

check my previous post with attachments... thats where i put the ground and it works for me and candyjones

lee303
Nov 23, 2012, 01:52 PM
Completely forgot all about this, sorry.

I'm back in on Monday, so i'll set a reminder in the ol' phone to get the values for you.

Kind regards,
Lee

palych
Nov 23, 2012, 02:14 PM
remove dc in board plug magsafe into board

you should read left to right
0,
4.7,
0,
4.7,
0

here is my good dc-in board

I got
0,
13.6,
0,
13.6,
0

Does it mean magsafe is bad?

Musicsoul78
Nov 23, 2012, 02:54 PM
I got
0,
13.6,
0,
13.6,
0

Does it mean magsafe is bad?

i have 16x 2009 820-2565a that all read 0,4.70,0,4.70,0 attached to 65w apple mag safe

reading from a multi meter set to 20. v::: DC

other multimeters give me readings of 0, 4.68, 0 , 4.68 , 0

so the 2 main reading should be between 4.66 - 4.70


so to answer you question

sounds like it buddy

----------

Completely forgot all about this, sorry.

I'm back in on Monday, so i'll set a reminder in the ol' phone to get the values for you.

Kind regards,
Lee

You the man lee

oh one more thing reading must be with laptop open and running and on battery power.....

as all other reading will be stable .

thanks lee

Musicsoul78
Nov 25, 2012, 06:32 PM
MBP 2009 13" a1278

Problem the dc connector on the board has melted.
where can i buy a replacement part from??
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/38440147/Screen%20Shot%202012-11-26%20at%2000.31.28.png

thanks guys

Mirnes
Nov 26, 2012, 11:38 PM
Image (http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/3348/g3hotlocation.jpg)i have a water damaged a1278 Macbook Pro.
AC Adapter has slight green light.
Temporary SMC bypass boots machine: Yes
Battery' Not charging
Can you point me in the right direction, here is picture what I tested

Bosna any luck?? Imam isti problem??

lee303
Nov 28, 2012, 02:36 AM
Wasn't able to get any reading from the chip in question. I've since has 2 more with the same issue, and both have also been that chip. I can get the data sheet if you like.

cmdrdata
Nov 28, 2012, 08:25 AM
I've been out of the loop from this forum for sometime now due to health issues. In reading some of the most recent threads, it seemed that some you have access to many MBP logic boards. How do you get these and if you buy them on auction sites, how much on average do you pay for it? The reason for this inquiry is that I've just updated my mid 2009 MBP OSX to v10.8, and this MBP does not support AirPlay mirroring. Would love to get a hold of a late 2011 (or newer, non-retina) 13" MBP logic board to upgrade mine. Thanks.

Musicsoul78
Nov 28, 2012, 08:03 PM
I've been out of the loop from this forum for sometime now due to health issues. In reading some of the most recent threads, it seemed that some you have access to many MBP logic boards. How do you get these and if you buy them on auction sites, how much on average do you pay for it? The reason for this inquiry is that I've just updated my mid 2009 MBP OSX to v10.8, and this MBP does not support AirPlay mirroring. Would love to get a hold of a late 2011 (or newer, non-retina) 13" MBP logic board to upgrade mine. Thanks.


mr data welcome back ....

hope your feeling better sir!!

i have a mid 2011 logic same as lee check my previous posts with lee.

this would support your needs however the issue is simple there a chip due north east of the fan a 6 pin fet its tiny... i mean tiny most micro tips are double the width of the pins.

once i get this fixed i could maybe trade with you?
you might want the whole machine instead of the board as the mpb's changes screw mounts on the top case from 2011 onwards. to accommodate the new functions. check i fix it for the layout variants.

in the mean time... Please can help me locate and find this chip replacement?

BTW
i get all my machine from students where i work as they usually kill their machines ... Death by water mostly!

i will keep a look out for any specific boards that meet your requirements.




----------

Wasn't able to get any reading from the chip in question. I've since has 2 more with the same issue, and both have also been that chip. I can get the data sheet if you like.

thanks lee appreciate you trying to help the readings are a pain....

i knew it was that chip all along its just identifying the part...

so you had 2 with the same issue and fixed by replacing using donor boards.

who has spare 2011 dead donor boards laying about..lol

cmdrdata
Nov 28, 2012, 08:39 PM
mr data welcome back ....

hope your feeling better sir!!

i have a mid 2011 logic same as lee check my previous posts with lee.

this would support your needs however the issue is simple there a chip due north east of the fan a 6 pin fet its tiny... i mean tiny most micro tips are double the width of the pins.

once i get this fixed i could maybe trade with you?
you might want the whole machine instead of the board as the mpb's changes screw mounts on the top case from 2011 onwards. to accommodate the new functions. check i fix it for the layout variants.

in the mean time... Please can help me locate and find this chip replacement?


Music, I do not have schematic or boardview for this MBP so I am not able to tell you what kind of FET is that 6-pin device. I suspect if it is a FET, then most likely it is DUAL FET. Apple seemed to use dual FET device a lot for their control and signal logic. Here is a typical part number used in many Kxx models: SSM6N37FE. This is a dual small signal FET chip with 6 pins, available from this vendor: http://www.mouser.com/ds/1/408/SSM6N37FE_en_datasheet_091112-21869.pdf

Sorry.

bosna1973
Nov 29, 2012, 04:12 PM
Where I can purchase q7055 or do I need to porchase broken logic board to use for parts

cmdrdata
Nov 30, 2012, 10:29 AM
Where I can purchase q7055 or do I need to porchase broken logic board to use for parts

Q7055 is NOT a part number. It is typically used to identify a part in a schematic, where the Q normally means transistor. The real part number should be identified in the schematic for your specific /MB or MBP. If you managed to buy a part with that number, you will most likely end up with a wrong part.

bosna1973
Nov 30, 2012, 03:17 PM
It is HAT1127HELE only problem can't find any in USA for sale

cmdrdata
Nov 30, 2012, 05:18 PM
It is HAT1127HELE only problem can't find any in USA for sale

http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController?langId=-1&storeId=500201&catalogId=500201&term=hat1127&x=0&y=0&searchType=&advAction=&N=0&Ne=100000&action=products

However it did say not available in the Americas. It is made by Renesas, so you maybe able to ask for "samples".

Musicsoul78
Nov 30, 2012, 05:46 PM
Music, I do not have schematic or boardview for this MBP so I am not able to tell you what kind of FET is that 6-pin device. I suspect if it is a FET, then most likely it is DUAL FET. Apple seemed to use dual FET device a lot for their control and signal logic. Here is a typical part number used in many Kxx models: SSM6N37FE. This is a dual small signal FET chip with 6 pins, available from this vendor: http://www.mouser.com/ds/1/408/SSM6N37FE_en_datasheet_091112-21869.pdf

Sorry.

nice one data!!

i have ordered today will update you on fix!

chrischris74
Dec 2, 2012, 08:28 AM
Hi everyone,

I'm back from holiday and I re-read all the 27 pages from this thread.
Just to resume I have the green light on magsafe but no battery is detected and the battery is not charged. Battery is right, Macbook A1278.
Is someone tell me the value of this resistor (see picture)? Actually there is a short-circuit but maybe it's not a resistor my eyes are old ;).

Thanks.

Bonjour DjErase

J' ai essay de vous contactez sur ABC. J' ai un problme sur macbook pro 2010 et comme nous avons la mme langue, je voudrais savoir si nous pouvions changer des astuces. Merci.

Jim cooper
Dec 3, 2012, 12:08 PM
Hi guys need some help really been reading you excellent posts on mac repairs.

I have a macbook pro a1278 which I bought from Ebay with water damage I have put it though the ultra sonic cleaner looks to be ok no burnt components .
Unfortunately it will only turn on on smc bypass,when connected to the magsafe . It will turn on on a good battery as I took a battery I had from another 1278 and fan run as normal.
when you plug in the magsafe you can see a very dim green light and a orange light for a brief second when you connect it . What I did notice was that the mac still charged the good battery I don't know if this helps ?
Also I am having problems with the backlight . It's not working at all I have checked the fuse in the pictures on here also the diode and that reads 12v on the dmm I have also checked the wled drive with the measurements from here.
Is there a way of knowing if the wled is dead ?

Help here would be most appreciated:confused:

----------

Hi guys need some help really been reading you excellent posts on mac repairs.

I have a macbook pro a1278 which I bought from Ebay with water damage I have put it though the ultra sonic cleaner looks to be ok no burnt components .
Unfortunately it will only turn on on smc bypass,when connected to the magsafe . It will turn on on a good battery as I took a battery I had from another 1278 and fan run as normal.
when you plug in the magsafe you can see a very dim green light and a orange light for a brief second when you connect it . What I did notice was that the mac still charged the good battery I don't know if this helps ?
Also I am having problems with the backlight . It's not working at all I have checked the fuse in the pictures on here also the diode and that reads 12v on the dmm I have also checked the wled drive with the measurements from here.
Is there a way of knowing if the wled is dead ?

Help here would be most appreciated

mihkels
Dec 4, 2012, 10:02 AM
Solved

kennethf
Dec 4, 2012, 12:54 PM
Hello
Great forum :)
Iam working on a water damaged macbook pro 13 2010 A1278 EMC:2351.
The mac charges the battery and G3hot is good. But it wont start :confused: Great if someone could help me out where to look.

Ps I think there something wrong with my 5V supply, where can I find this on the PCB ?

Thanks

mihkels
Dec 4, 2012, 03:45 PM
I've got a problem with my Macbook Unibody turning on erratically - I've gotten it to turn on randomly, but more often does nothing when the power button is pressed.

I disassembled the computer, disconnected the dc-in board, connected a 65w charger, read the voltages on the dc in board with the multimeter turned to 20V and got:

0, 15.21, 0, 15.21, 0.

Seems like a faulty dc-in board but do you know, if the voltages on a MacBook 13.3" Unibody A1278 are supposed to be the same as on your Macbook Pro?

Thanks!

I also tried to short the two pins shown in the picture, that are supposed to turn on the computer bypassing the power button but that didn't work. I measured 3.38 on one of the pads. Is this normal?

Image (http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5158/mlbu.png)

And one more question - Do any of you guys know, if the 13" MBP Unibody DC-IN board is compatible with my Macbook Unibody A1278?

Thanks!

gaijinsan
Dec 4, 2012, 07:39 PM
Hello guys, I've been scouring this thread for a couple of days as the Macbook I have is showing the classic symptoms of a power problem. The Macbook works perfectly on battery, but will not charge when the magsafe is plugged in. The magsafe also shows a very dim green glow. It also starts up perfectly fine using the SMC bypass technique. I thought it was a bad DC in board, but when the replacement came and I plugged it in the same problems occurred. The old DC in board was fine. After testing all the points on the motherboard all the voltages seemed to be alright. Then I noticed this. See attached image. It's a very small 6 pin IC thats linked to the sense line of the dc board. one of the pads has completely disappeared. Can anybody tell me what this IC is and where I the Last pad is linked too. I know I'm going to have to remove this part and replace it, but I think the pad has perished and I'll need to link it to another part of the board to make a good connection. It's a 2008 Unibody Macbook A1278 NOT a pro board. Any help at all for an answer would be much appreciated. Thank you very much.

mihkels
Dec 5, 2012, 01:41 AM
Hello guys, I've been scouring this thread for a couple of days as the Macbook I have is showing the classic symptoms of a power problem. The Macbook works perfectly on battery, but will not charge when the magsafe is plugged in. The magsafe also shows a very dim green glow. It also starts up perfectly fine using the SMC bypass technique. I thought it was a bad DC in board, but when the replacement came and I plugged it in the same problems occurred. The old DC in board was fine. After testing all the points on the motherboard all the voltages seemed to be alright. Then I noticed this. See attached image. It's a very small 6 pin IC thats linked to the sense line of the dc board. one of the pads has completely disappeared. Can anybody tell me what this IC is and where I the Last pad is linked too. I know I'm going to have to remove this part and replace it, but I think the pad has perished and I'll need to link it to another part of the board to make a good connection. It's a 2008 Unibody Macbook A1278 NOT a pro board. Any help at all for an answer would be much appreciated. Thank you very much.

Could you please tell me what voltages you got from your good dc-in board?
Mine are 0, 15.21, 0, 15,21, 0.

gaijinsan
Dec 5, 2012, 05:12 AM
Hello guys, I've been scouring this thread for a couple of days as the Macbook I have is showing the classic symptoms of a power problem. The Macbook works perfectly on battery, but will not charge when the magsafe is plugged in. The magsafe also shows a very dim green glow. It also starts up perfectly fine using the SMC bypass technique. I thought it was a bad DC in board, but when the replacement came and I plugged it in the same problems occurred. The old DC in board was fine. After testing all the points on the motherboard all the voltages seemed to be alright. Then I noticed this. See attached image. It's a very small 6 pin IC thats linked to the sense line of the dc board. one of the pads has completely disappeared. Can anybody tell me what this IC is and where I the Last pad is linked too. I know I'm going to have to remove this part and replace it, but I think the pad has perished and I'll need to link it to another part of the board to make a good connection. It's a 2008 Unibody Macbook A1278 NOT a pro board. Any help at all for an answer would be much appreciated. Thank you very much.
OK, I've got the schematics and found the part It's Q6920 (SSM6N15FEAPE) I'm guessing that since pin 6 is not connected then the SYS_ONEWIRE_BILAT output is not recognised, but since the rest of the chip is still functioning then power is sent around the board. I'll order a new part and pray that I can still find the traces. But, damn that chip is small. Will post my results when the part comes in.

----------

Could you please tell me what voltages you got from your good dc-in board?
Mine are 0, 15.21, 0, 15,21, 0.

Hi, With a 65W charger attached I get the usual 0, 16, 0, 16, plus a small voltage around the sense connection I can't remember how much.
Your voltages seem a little low plus with nothing on the sense line It could be the DC board.
Also The DC board from a PRO will plug into a unibody but the actaul board is a different shape. Make sure any replacement has the same part number.

cmdrdata
Dec 5, 2012, 07:07 AM
OK, I've got the schematics and found the part It's Q6920 (SSM6N15FEAPE) I'm guessing that since pin 6 is not connected then the SYS_ONEWIRE_BILAT output is not recognised, but since the rest of the chip is still functioning then power is sent around the board. I'll order a new part and pray that I can still find the traces. But, damn that chip is small. Will post my results when the part comes in.

Good work. That part is a dual small signal FET. Apple uses this kind of devices in many places for control and signaling.

mihkels
Dec 5, 2012, 08:25 AM
Hi, With a 65W charger attached I get the usual 0, 16, 0, 16, plus a small voltage around the sense connection I can't remember how much.
Your voltages seem a little low plus with nothing on the sense line It could be the DC board.
Also The DC board from a PRO will plug into a unibody but the actaul board is a different shape. Make sure any replacement has the same part number.

Did you get 16 with the DC board disconnected from the logic board? How come Musicsoul78 got only 4.7?

cmdrdata
Dec 5, 2012, 11:22 AM
Did you get 16 with the DC board disconnected from the logic board? How come Musicsoul78 got only 4.7?

A little primer on magsafe based on my tests a while back:

The magsafe when unloaded (not connected to load that draw significant current) will only generate low voltage like the 4.7v musicsoul measured. When it is connected to a load, then the magsafe will sense that and output its full voltage between 16.5 and 18.5 volt. Another precaution: the 5-pin DCIN board connector re-arrange the voltage connectivity from magsafe so that pin 1/2 are the V+ and pin 3/4 the V- (GND). See below

EDIT: DCIN connector pins 1/2 = V+, 3/4 = GND, 5 = Sense signal line
Magsafe pins: 1/5 = GND, 2/4 = V+, 3 = Sense signal line.

EDIT2: I wonder if the difference voltage reading on the V+ is caused by a different magsafe design, original Apple vs. Chinese knockout magsafe adapter?

EDIT3: I just experimented on my own magsafe. Using apple magsafe connected to a DCIN board, I get about 6v on the V+. Using a knockoff magsafe from eBay, I get 16v on the V+. On both magsafes, the sense line was 0v since it was not connected to the logic board that provides the "pull-up" voltage.

mihkels
Dec 5, 2012, 12:20 PM
A little primer on magsafe based on my tests a while back:

The magsafe when unloaded (not connected to load that draw significant current) will only generate low voltage like the 4.7v musicsoul measured. When it is connected to a load, then the magsafe will sense that and output its full voltage between 16.5 and 18.5 volt. Another precaution: the 5-pin DCIN board connector re-arrange the voltage connectivity so that pin 1/2 are the V+ and pin 4/5 the V- (GND).

Strange, with the dc-in board disconnected from the logic board, I measured 15.21 on V+ and 0 on the sense pin but with the Macbook connected got 16.61 on V+ and 2.87 on the sense pin.
So it seems that the dc-in board might not be faulty after all. Do you know if the power generated by my 60W Magsafe is enough to run my Macbook (not pro) Unibody A1278 without a battery installed? The Magsafe outputs 16.61V as well . The voltage seems ok to me.

cmdrdata
Dec 5, 2012, 04:46 PM
Strange, with the dc-in board disconnected from the logic board, I measured 15.21 on V+ and 0 on the sense pin but with the Macbook connected got 16.61 on V+ and 2.87 on the sense pin.
So it seems that the dc-in board might not be faulty after all. Do you know if the power generated by my 60W Magsafe is enough to run my Macbook (not pro) Unibody A1278 without a battery installed? The Magsafe outputs 16.61V as well . The voltage seems ok to me.

Yes, 65W magsafe will power MB or MBP. The 2.87v reading for sense line is probably OK as it is actually a bidirectional SYS_ONEWIRE signal driven by the SMC thru a FET, thus it represent a logic "1" when the SMC recognized a magsafe present. As shown in the attached drawing for an A1181 MB (an example, as your MB/MBP may be slightly different), the 2.87v probably comes from Q8298 turning on, allowing G3HOT/3.4v to flow thru the FET to pull up R8299 and if FET Q8220 is also enabled by the SMC via signal ONEWIRE_EN(able), then pin5 of the DCIN board will go to near G3HOT voltage level. In A1181 these magsafe detection is done via discrete logic (various FETs, comparator and resistor dividers. In later and newer MB/MBPs the detection function is integrated into the ISL8258/ISL8259 charger IC.

BTW, I was a little bit off in the DCIN connector description. As shown in the same drawing here, 1/2 is V+, 3/4 is GND, and 5 is the sense pin. Sorry for the error.

mihkels
Dec 6, 2012, 02:29 PM
Problem solved for now :)

iN00b
Dec 6, 2012, 04:08 PM
A common issue with these boards is the charger circuit not charging the battery. This would be indicated by no green/orange LED on the magsafe. The first step in these cases is to determine of the charger circuit is happy. The charger device on the MBP13 and Macbook unibody aluminum is up and to the right of the memory sockets. The pin to be measured is pin 14 which is CHGR_ACOK and this will be a steady 3.4V if the charger is happy and trying to charge the battery. If it is 0V then there is an issue with the charge circuit and further troubleshooting is required.

Be very, very careful trying to measure this pin with your multimeter. You really should have fine tip probes for this. Regular probes are too fat and you risk shorting pin 14 to pin 13 during the measurement.

Greetings, and thank you very very much of this most informative thread there is about the subject!
I have a couple of these 2009 unibodys - all damaged due liquid.
The one at the best shape works with battery but does not charge.
There is a faint blinking green light at the magsafe.
I measured the the voltage from the charger circuit pin 14 and it was slowly fluctuating between 2.28-2.23V.
What should I think of this? Is the charger circuit most likely to be broken and so should be changed? Or where should I look next?

I have to also tell, that Im totally new to these things but very interested and willing to learn so keep that in mind when replying ;)
Thanks

Dadioh
Dec 6, 2012, 06:50 PM
Greetings, and thank you very very much of this most informative thread there is about the subject!
I have a couple of these 2009 unibodys - all damaged due liquid.
The one at the best shape works with battery but does not charge.
There is a faint blinking green light at the magsafe.
I measured the the voltage from the charger circuit pin 14 and it was slowly fluctuating between 2.28-2.23V.
What should I think of this? Is the charger circuit most likely to be broken and so should be changed? Or where should I look next?

I have to also tell, that Im totally new to these things but very interested and willing to learn so keep that in mind when replying ;)
Thanks

Pin 14 should be a solid 3.4V. If it is fluctuating or not reading 3.4V then the charger circuit is not happy. Most likely cause is the charger IC but you might want to check some of the circuits around the charger with schematic in hand and see if you can determine an issue. Sorry, can't provide a step by step for that because every issue could be different and this level of troubleshooting really requires someone with electronics knowledge.

----------

Welcome back Commander Data :D

Great to have you back on the thread.

iN00b
Dec 7, 2012, 12:18 AM
Thanks Dadioh! Ill start looking. The most hardest thing at this point seems to be finding the components at the board. I have the schematics, but locating the circuits feels impossible...

Dadioh
Dec 7, 2012, 06:15 AM
Thanks Dadioh! Ill start looking. The most hardest thing at this point seems to be finding the components at the board. I have the schematics, but locating the circuits feels impossible...

There are board view files for some of the schematics but not all. Board view allows you to search for locations of components. But if you don't have it then it is just patience and detective work. If there is a particular component you are looking for post here and someone may be able to point it out. Good luck.

illassa
Dec 7, 2012, 09:24 AM
I recently bought a Macbook Pro 13 inch 2012 8gb RAM, 750gb hard-rive non retina on the 13th Nov and i hadn't even had it a week when it just died on me. It was completely unresponsive, there was no lights on anything and the charger was showing no light either. So i took it to my local computer shop who sent it to an authorised apple repair company.
They reset the SMC in my macbook and it was sent back to me. But the same day i got it back, i plugged in my hard-rive (Toshiba 1 TB usb 3) and it just shut off. The difference was it turned back on and was functioning fine until i plugged in my phone charger, without the phone attached and it shut off again.
I took it back to JB-Hi-Fi, where i purchased it and they called Apple on my behalf and i ended up getting a brand new computer that i picked up on the 3rd of december. And now here i am again on the 8th of December with another brand new computer that has died and won't respond to anything.
Is it possible that there is something deep within the computer that keeps causing this to happen? I am certain it is nothing i am doing as the second time it happened i was just watching a video on Youtube.
I haven't found anyone else online that is having any problems with a 2012 Macbook pro, so i think i am just going to take this computer back and get the money i payed for it back, because both of them have just been massive hassles or if anyone here knows anything that could help that would be muchly appreciated!

chrischris74
Dec 7, 2012, 09:39 AM
Hi,

I have a MB 13 A1278 that does no switch on. Just the hard drive is powered for 3 seconds. The LED on the Magsafe does come on and battery is good (100% charge).

Any ideas and tips would be helpfull

Thanks in Advance

cmdrdata
Dec 7, 2012, 09:51 AM
I recently bought a Macbook Pro 13 inch 2012 8gb RAM, 750gb hard-rive non retina on the 13th Nov and i hadn't even had it a week when it just died on me. It was completely unresponsive, there was no lights on anything and the charger was showing no light either. So i took it to my local computer shop who sent it to an authorised apple repair company.
They reset the SMC in my macbook and it was sent back to me. But the same day i got it back, i plugged in my hard-rive (Toshiba 1 TB usb 3) and it just shut off. The difference was it turned back on and was functioning fine until i plugged in my phone charger, without the phone attached and it shut off again.
I took it back to JB-Hi-Fi, where i purchased it and they called Apple on my behalf and i ended up getting a brand new computer that i picked up on the 3rd of december. And now here i am again on the 8th of December with another brand new computer that has died and won't respond to anything.
Is it possible that there is something deep within the computer that keeps causing this to happen? I am certain it is nothing i am doing as the second time it happened i was just watching a video on Youtube.
I haven't found anyone else online that is having any problems with a 2012 Macbook pro, so i think i am just going to take this computer back and get the money i payed for it back, because both of them have just been massive hassles or if anyone here knows anything that could help that would be muchly appreciated!

It seemed strange that you have 2 "new" Macs that behave the same way.
If I am in your position, as long as the MBP is under warranty, I'd NOT do any repair or opening up the system as it MAY void the warranty. Take it directly to an Apple store and let them sort it out. This forum is primarily for "last resort" attempt (no longer under Apple/seller warranty) to resurrect a broken Mac and require some technical knowledge/skill to accomplish the repair. Or the out of pocket repair costs more than the Mac street value. Sometimes the attempted repair may even cause further damage which would render the Mac to the parts bin.

----------

Hi,

I have a MB 13 A1278 that does no switch on. Just the hard drive is powered for 3 seconds. The LED on the Magsafe does come on and battery is good (100% charge).

Any ideas and tips would be helpfull

Thanks in Advance
Does it power on with a "boing sound" and just would not boot to OSX? try removing the HD and restart. If it comes up with a folder icon, you probably have a bad HD.

bosna1973
Dec 7, 2012, 01:19 PM
cmdrdata, thank you for your input.
Can you identify this component in red

cmdrdata
Dec 7, 2012, 02:26 PM
cmdrdata, thank you for your input.
Can you identify this component in red

Sorry I cannot tell you what that is without a schematic and BoardView files. Looking at the picture and proximity to the USB connectors, I think it is either a capacitor or filter inductor. The USB circuitry is typically driven by an IC, and the DATA +/- lines are protected by a pair of SMD inductor and a pair of capacitors from transients.

If a capacitor, measuring resistance on it will give you some high value resistance and one end of it most likely connected to ground. In the attached schematic, notice that the caps are connected to the 5v pin and GND.

If an inductor, measuring resistance on it will most likely gives you 0 Ohm and neither end will be connected to ground, except L4604 in the example given.

Musicsoul78
Dec 7, 2012, 04:50 PM
And one more question - Do any of you guys know, if the 13" MBP Unibody DC-IN board is compatible with my Macbook Unibody A1278?

Thanks!

your mac book a1278 is in every way compatible with macbook pro 2009 - 2010

just whip that dc board out and test it???

you should be good to go...

please dont go shorting pads unless you are 100% sure you know?

as i could not tell by your photo... and generally macbook pro do not have gold ribbon cables they are common on 2008 macbooks a1278.

so get a better pic off you baord and the g3hot.

thanks hope this helps

Musicsoul78
Dec 7, 2012, 05:17 PM
Sorry I cannot tell you what that is without a schematic and BoardView files. Looking at the picture and proximity to the USB connectors, I think it is either a capacitor or filter inductor. The USB circuitry is typically driven by an IC, and the DATA +/- lines are protected by a pair of SMD inductor and a pair of capacitors from transients.

If a capacitor, measuring resistance on it will give you some high value resistance and one end of it most likely connected to ground. In the attached schematic, notice that the caps are connected to the 5v pin and GND.

If an inductor, measuring resistance on it will most likely gives you 0 Ohm and neither end will be connected to ground, except L4604 in the example given.

Nice on Data
Every post is a little lesson in electrical engineering ....

had to quote this post so it saves and i can refer to it at a later date.
also once you have the value i have a whole bag full of these of different values i can send some over...

Dadioh
Dec 7, 2012, 08:44 PM
your mac book a1278 is in every way compatible with macbook pro 2009 - 2010

just whip that dc board out and test it???

you should be good to go...



Although electrically the DC-in board is equivalent between the A1278 Pro and the earlier A1278 unibody non-PRO the 2 screw holes to mount to the chassis are slightly different spacing so you can't interchange them.

rickAC
Dec 8, 2012, 01:43 AM
Hi,

I have a MBP A1278 13". Evererything is functioning apart from three keys: Left Shift, Left Option and Control. I tried a casing with good working keyboard but it didn't help. The fault is on logic board, possibly SMC reset function since those three keys are used for it.


Anyone have success in repairing this fault?

rickAC
Dec 8, 2012, 02:53 PM
cmdrdata, thank you for your input.
Can you identify this component in red

If your model is A1278 K24 than the component in red is C3500 (pin 1: PP3V3_S3_CARDREADER_DVDD, pin 2: ground.

iN00b
Dec 9, 2012, 07:55 AM
Pin 14 should be a solid 3.4V. If it is fluctuating or not reading 3.4V then the charger circuit is not happy. Most likely cause is the charger IC but you might want to check some of the circuits around the charger with schematic in hand and see if you can determine an issue. Sorry, can't provide a step by step for that because every issue could be different and this level of troubleshooting really requires someone with electronics knowledge.

----------

Welcome back Commander Data :D

Great to have you back on the thread.

I should pay more attention to what Im doing :) I have 3 chargers and 1 of them is for a macbook and the other ones are for MBP. When I tested the voltage with an MBP charger it was ok. I actually tested pins 2,3 and 14 and compared all of them to the voltages at a similar working board and they were all same so the charger circuit should be ok.
After looking the board more thoroughly I noticed that 2 pins of one component have corroded and there is no connection. The pins are the ones marked with green arrows at the attached image. I found the image from previous posts. Im guessing this might be my problem.
Does anyone know that what the component is exactly and is there a place where I could order these from?

Dadioh
Dec 9, 2012, 08:21 AM
I should pay more attention to what Im doing :) I have 3 chargers and 1 of them is for a macbook and the other ones are for MBP. When I tested the voltage with an MBP charger it was ok. I actually tested pins 2,3 and 14 and compared all of them to the voltages at a similar working board and they were all same so the charger circuit should be ok.
After looking the board more thoroughly I noticed that 2 pins of one component have corroded and there is no connection. The pins are the ones marked with green arrows at the attached image. I found the image from previous posts. Im guessing this might be my problem.
Does anyone know that what the component is exactly and is there a place where I could order these from?

That is one of the inrush FETs. If yours is a 2009 MBP13 then the part is shown below. To be certain, check for the other FET on the back of the logic board near that one. If you can read the part number on that it will confirm.

http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController/MOSFET/Renesas-Electronics/HAT1127H-EL-E/_/R-10918616/A-10918616/An-0?action=part&catalogId=500201&langId=-1&storeId=500201

Dadioh
Dec 9, 2012, 08:26 AM
Hello
Great forum :)
Iam working on a water damaged macbook pro 13 2010 A1278 EMC:2351.
The mac charges the battery and G3hot is good. But it wont start :confused: Great if someone could help me out where to look.

Ps I think there something wrong with my 5V supply, where can I find this on the PCB ?

Thanks

The 5V and 3.3V device is identified in the attachment. See schematic for which pins to measure but you can measure them on capacitors coming off the power outputs rather than trying to get the probe on the device pins (risky for shorting).

Musicsoul78
Dec 9, 2012, 08:29 AM
Although electrically the DC-in board is equivalent between the A1278 Pro and the earlier A1278 unibody non-PRO the 2 screw holes to mount to the chassis are slightly different spacing so you can't interchange them.

This is very true!!!
You can not swap them straight over but you can use it for testing purposes.

Dadioh
Dec 9, 2012, 09:47 AM
This is very true!!!
You can not swap them straight over but you can use it for testing purposes.

Yes. For testing purposes that would work. I actually had a DC-in from an older Macbook White polycarbonate that I used for testing unibody logic boards. The pinout was the same.

A word of caution when using a DC-in board outside of the case. Wrap it with kapton tape so that it doesn't accidently move around and short something on your logic board. I learned the hard way when the cord yanked it into contact with the logic board I was working on and applied 16V where it should not have been applied. Poof. One dead logic board :(

iN00b
Dec 9, 2012, 10:42 AM
That is one of the inrush FETs. If yours is a 2009 MBP13 then the part is shown below. To be certain, check for the other FET on the back of the logic board near that one. If you can read the part number on that it will confirm.

http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController/MOSFET/Renesas-Electronics/HAT1127H-EL-E/_/R-10918616/A-10918616/An-0?action=part&catalogId=500201&langId=-1&storeId=500201

Ok, thanks! And yes - the markings on top of the FETs say: 1127 so its the one. Now to get those, hope this works - fingers crossed :)

mm9
Dec 14, 2012, 09:01 AM
Its a great topic. I have read most of it.


Could you please give me a hint on finding this silver square component marked RED from my mobo please?

logic board is apple 820-2915-b
Macbook Unibody 15 inches
i7 - probably 2011


chip is marked with

i "diode triangle symbol" R
9395
2984
1051


Thanks in advance

Mike



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-brsjXWtHq9M/UMs-Ag2bKgI/AAAAAAAAB5E/br48zu7cmWM/s1024/820-2915-B-TopEarly%25202011%2520i7%2520apple%2520macbook%2520pro%252015%2520logic%2520board.jpg?gl=PL

mm9
Dec 14, 2012, 10:25 AM
I have read many advanced instructions and info here.

Is there a chance that one of you have tried connecting back-light to the motherboard on a Late 2010 Macbook Air without this feature.

I have already added backlight but cant find a place to put a socket powering it. Micro controller should be able to support it but where to look for a spot?

Anyone willing to give it a go?

Best

Michael

cmdrdata
Dec 14, 2012, 05:18 PM
Its a great topic. I have read most of it.


Could you please give me a hint on finding this silver square component marked RED from my mobo please?

logic board is apple 820-2915-b
Macbook Unibody 15 inches
i7 - probably 2011


chip is marked with

i "diode triangle symbol" R
9395
2984
1051


Thanks in advance

Mike


It is an isolation switch (power FET) made by International Rectifier. The part number is IRF9395. See attached.

mm9
Dec 15, 2012, 04:12 AM
It is an isolation switch (power FET) made by International Rectifier. The part number is IRF9395. See attached.


Thanks!!!! Great :) You have made my day. All the best!!!

docentore
Dec 21, 2012, 01:44 AM
Hi all, great thread, great help can be found here. I need some help from you guys. I hav 13 MBPRO 2010 2.4 after water damage.
Most damage was done around U7000.
All cleaned etc. now what happens:
1. when battery is in and I connect magsafe - starts on its own
2. No magsafe but battery in - I can start either through power button or using smc bypass.

In both cases macbook gives me 1 beep - no memory, with the ram or without. RAM is 100%. Nothing on the screen

G3 is 3.39 (might my meter is a bit off)

Got some measurment from the U7000:
1 - 0v
2 - 15.9
3 - 3.8v
4 - 0
6 - 3.35
7 - 0
8 - 2
9 - 0.87
10 - 3.3
11 - 3.3
12 3.4
14 - 2
16 - 5
18 - 12.5
20 - 5
21 - 0.5
23 - 2.3
24 - 16.3
25 17.4
28 - 16.4

1.5v and 0.75v for memory is present, 1v for cpu and 5v for usb is there


Also what I noticed that I dont have 18.5 around U5805? IC was replace along with diode and choker - still no joy.

rickAC
Dec 24, 2012, 06:40 PM
Hi,

I have a MBP A1278 13". Evererything is functioning apart from three keys: Left Shift, Left Option and Control. I tried a casing with good working keyboard but it didn't help. The fault is on logic board, possibly SMC reset function since those three keys are used for it.


Anyone have success in repairing this fault?

Can it really be that only I have had this fault on this forum?
Not even you Dadioh and cmdrdata :confused:

mac-n-sauce
Dec 25, 2012, 10:21 PM
cmdrdata, thank you for your input.
Can you identify this component in red

It's a capacitor:
C3500
10uf
20%
6.3v
x5r
603

Part of the card reader circuit

cmdrdata
Dec 26, 2012, 09:49 AM
Can it really be that only I have had this fault on this forum?
Not even you Dadioh and cmdrdata :confused:

here are the two sections you may want to probe around and compare good keyboard/logic board vs bad ones and see if they are different. I've never seen that kind of problem so, yes, you're on new ground(s). good luck.

mac-n-sauce
Dec 26, 2012, 01:25 PM
here are the two sections you may want to probe around and compare good keyboard/logic board vs bad ones and see if they are different. I've never seen that kind of problem so, yes, you're on new ground(s). good luck.

I have a 2010 13" macbook pro with a white screen. Boots and works externally. Looks like the LVDS connector was replaced. Bad replacement? The screen does not look damaged in any way, cable appears to be good. Tried unplug and reseat-no effect.

Any thoughts

bosna1973
Dec 26, 2012, 02:25 PM
Can you help me identify this component in red,on one side there is 16.5but on the other side,0

mac-n-sauce
Dec 26, 2012, 02:29 PM
Can you help me identify this component in red,on one side there is 16.5but on the other side,0

What are the specs on the computer? Never mind. 2011 17" macbook pro i7
Looks like a capacitor, but hard to tell from the photo. I do not have the schematic for the 2011 17" maybe someone else out here does. Probably part of the dc-in magsafe circuit. Thats why its reading 16.5v on one side. Its located next to the fuse(the white one) for that circuit.

bosna1973
Dec 26, 2012, 02:54 PM
It is a1286 mc118ll/a

mac-n-sauce
Dec 26, 2012, 03:04 PM
It is a1286 mc118ll/a

That photo has a logic board number for a 2011 17" i7

Either way, that will still be a capacitor. What is the problem with the computer?

bosna1973
Dec 26, 2012, 03:07 PM
An if lcd-screen is not functional should there be startup sound ,when I press power button I can hear DVD and hard drive spinnig I can see white light but nothing on the screen and no startup sound I try to remuve ram same no startup sound

mac-n-sauce
Dec 26, 2012, 03:37 PM
An if lcd-screen is not functional should there be startup sound ,when I press power button I can hear DVD and hard drive spinnig I can see white light but nothing on the screen and no startup sound I try to remuve ram same no startup sound

That can be bad video, blown backlight, bad cable for the screen. Can you see anything in the screen if you shine a flashlight?

You should get start up chime if its booting. Does not sound like you are getting a boot.

The computer will try and go through the start up procedure by testing the HD and DVD. If you leave it on and it is booted you will be able to toggle the caps lock on and off. If not then you are not getting through the boot process

bosna1973
Dec 27, 2012, 11:42 AM
There is nothing on screen when I use flashlight and backlight fuse is OK and you are right computer dosnot boot there is no light on keyboard.

Musicsoul78
Dec 27, 2012, 12:44 PM
Can it really be that only I have had this fault on this forum?
Not even you Dadioh and cmdrdata :confused:

try smc reset without the keybaord... keyboard removed

it involves you triping the gehot whilst adding or removing magasafe power (battery must be unplugged)

check the keybaord connector on logic board for debris or replace just to make sure!!!

also try external keybaord??

plus new internal keyboard

----------

MAC N SAUCE

Ok i had the same issue turned out to be cable !!

also had another one wich was the lvds connector on logic board, needed to be replaced.

please try a new screen before removing lvds connector.

----------

I have issue with MB A1278 Unibody logic board refurbished

when plugged dc in to dc-board i get flashing green light.

this giving intermittent shots of power and i do not know where to start.

please help

as i can not take any readings as they are constantly changing

ps

Tried 5 new dc in boards all same issue its defo logic board probably a fuse or capacitor???

mac-n-sauce
Dec 27, 2012, 01:46 PM
There is nothing on screen when I use flashlight and backlight fuse is OK and you are right computer dosnot boot there is no light on keyboard.

So now you have no boot issues. You have to start diagnosing why. You are getting power so the G3HOT sounds ok, Is there liquid damage on this board

bosna1973
Dec 27, 2012, 03:04 PM
Yes G3HOT is good and there is no liquid damige it charges baterry everything seems normal but no video on screen

Musicsoul78
Dec 27, 2012, 08:37 PM
Yes G3HOT is good and there is no liquid damige it charges baterry everything seems normal but no video on screen

going by your posts

these are your conditions

1.power is good green/orange
2.dvd and hard drive spin
3. no chime when powered
4. see white light when powered (harddrive light)?? correct?

right first disconnect screen both cables then power (make sure ram is properly seated and correct size and power please check)

you should hear chime?

if this is good

then you have issues with the display as instructed by mac n sauce
could be the following
1.new lvds cable (replace both cables for display just incase something is shorting it.)
2.if fuse is good could be wled driver...bad news hard to replace
3.lvds connector on lgic board is bad this is a real bitch to desolder and solder new.

if you have a midi display adapter to hdmi or vga plug in and boot to external display to check video/gpu.

hope this covers everything!

good luck

i am in the same boat as you with a mb 13" i just fixed, with no display going to try a whole new known good assembly tomorrow. to confirm what the issue is!

transientstatic
Dec 28, 2012, 09:07 AM
Hi,

I have a late 2008 MBP 15. No spill or dropping occurred. About 5 days ago, something SMC related failed. The laptop had reset itself and when I got it to turn back on, the fans were running full speed, the battery was not being recognized, and the battery indicator light wasn't working. So I reset the SMC and everything was happy for the rest of the day.
Then it happened again. And again, and again. Last time, after successfully reseting the SMC, the laptop switched off within 3 minutes of running and I'm now running in what I assume is the SMC bypass state- still "no battery", fans running at high speed, everything else apparently fine. It also seems to run on the battery successfully if I unplug it.
Are there any tips on things I might try to rectify the problem? Is there a way to force it to reload the SMC firmware? The Apple download firmware update just seems to say- you have it! No update required- not helpful. Anything else recommended?
Assuming there are no soft solutions, (my guess is that whatever chip runs the SMC is failing and needs replacing) while I am actually a hardware engineer with plenty of solder and reflow skills, I don't want to risk the laptop when it is otherwise functional, especially as it is my primary work computer. Is there any reason (appart from annoyance) not to run it on SMC bypass? An external battery charger and fan control software are much cheaper than a new laptop.

Thanks,

LsP

jrzzz
Dec 28, 2012, 09:38 AM
So, I was replacing a hdd in a 2009 macbook air, and I had to copy over some data. The battery was almost empty, so I attempted to connect the magsafe connector, but the magnet pulled the connector towards itself. Sparks from the dc-in board :(:(:(:(. The computer was still running, so I could just turn it off. (It also went back on, so I think nothing happened to the logic board).

However, the powercable is not recognized (tried with 2 chargers, and they both work fine on the other mac). I'm assuming it's the dc-in board, as that's where the sparks came from.

Is there a way to check if it really is the dcinboard? I've done some multimetring on the board itself (disconnected from the macbook).
I got 0.10 volt from pin 2 and 3 iirc.. (might be 1 and 3).
With the charger connected, I get 0.3 volts instead of 0.1.
I don't get any led blinking, but as it should do some sense/negotiation I figured that will not come.

What do I need to measure to be sure it's the dc board? Should I just be getting 16.5 volts on one of the +es? or is that only done after negotiation is done. If this is the case, how does that work when there's no battery?

What exactly is the SMC, and is it helpful to try and reset it? (is that possible without battery?)

Musicsoul78
Dec 28, 2012, 11:48 AM
remove dc in board plug magsafe into board

you should read left to right
0,
4.7,
0,
4.7,
0

here is my good dc-in board

see post #1106

So, I was replacing a hdd in a 2009 macbook air, and I had to copy over some data. The battery was almost empty, so I attempted to connect the magsafe connector, but the magnet pulled the connector towards itself. Sparks from the dc-in board :(:(:(:(. The computer was still running, so I could just turn it off. (It also went back on, so I think nothing happened to the logic board).

However, the powercable is not recognized (tried with 2 chargers, and they both work fine on the other mac). I'm assuming it's the dc-in board, as that's where the sparks came from.

Is there a way to check if it really is the dcinboard? I've done some multimetring on the board itself (disconnected from the macbook).
I got 0.10 volt from pin 2 and 3 iirc.. (might be 1 and 3).
With the charger connected, I get 0.3 volts instead of 0.1.
I don't get any led blinking, but as it should do some sense/negotiation I figured that will not come.

What do I need to measure to be sure it's the dc board? Should I just be getting 16.5 volts on one of the +es? or is that only done after negotiation is done. If this is the case, how does that work when there's no battery?

What exactly is the SMC, and is it helpful to try and reset it? (is that possible without battery?)
\
check my previous post on testing dc in board

this is an easy fix... if it is only dc in board?

----------

Hi,

I have a late 2008 MBP 15. No spill or dropping occurred. About 5 days ago, something SMC related failed. The laptop had reset itself and when I got it to turn back on, the fans were running full speed, the battery was not being recognized, and the battery indicator light wasn't working. So I reset the SMC and everything was happy for the rest of the day.
Then it happened again. And again, and again. Last time, after successfully reseting the SMC, the laptop switched off within 3 minutes of running and I'm now running in what I assume is the SMC bypass state- still "no battery", fans running at high speed, everything else apparently fine. It also seems to run on the battery successfully if I unplug it.
Are there any tips on things I might try to rectify the problem? Is there a way to force it to reload the SMC firmware? The Apple download firmware update just seems to say- you have it! No update required- not helpful. Anything else recommended?
Assuming there are no soft solutions, (my guess is that whatever chip runs the SMC is failing and needs replacing) while I am actually a hardware engineer with plenty of solder and reflow skills, I don't want to risk the laptop when it is otherwise functional, especially as it is my primary work computer. Is there any reason (appart from annoyance) not to run it on SMC bypass? An external battery charger and fan control software are much cheaper than a new laptop.

Thanks,

LsP

i have not known the smc to just fail...without a trigger. eg cold solder joints oxidization of connections etc
Run ASD on your macbookpro
to get full diagnostic report and see where it fails

tiriya
Dec 28, 2012, 03:41 PM
First of all, thank you for this thread! I started a new one today gratuitously --would be prevented if I searched for SMC prior to that instead of "powering up" it seems.

Quick question (as I probably need to take it to a repair shop.): The notebook (MBP 13'', mid 2010) has a very similar problem to the one described in the first post: No power up with only Magsafe, pressing the power button prior to connecting Magsafe is a temporary solution etc... And, SMC reset does not solve the problem

Yet, if the battery has enough charge in it, notebook turns on the usual way and it charges the battery as well.
[longer description here: http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php?p=16565249&postcount=1 ]

Does this sound like a logicboard problem?

jrzzz
Dec 29, 2012, 06:28 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Musicsoul78
remove dc in board plug magsafe into board

you should read left to right
0,
4.7,
0,
4.7,
0

here is my good dc-in board
see post #1106


my readings are:
0.3 - 0 - 0.3 - 0 - 0.3 on de solder spots
and:
0 - 0 - 0.2 - 0.2 - 0.1 on he connector that should go into the MBA

(my gnd is on the metal lip

So thx! ordering a dcin board from ebay. hopefully the logic board is not damaged :(

gretsch27
Dec 29, 2012, 09:24 PM
I have a water damaged MBP (15", mid 2009) that I am trying to fix. I have cleaned the logic board with isopropyl alcohol and replaced the DC in board with a new one. I now have a green magsafe light, but I cannot start the machine even when I try jumping pin 5 to gnd on the keyboard connector. The magsafe indicator just stays green even though the battery is totally dead.

Here are a few pieces of information that I think might be relevant:

G3Hot reads 3.38V instead of 3.42.

The "non-removable" battery reads zero volts. I guess that means it dropped below a certain threshold. Does the battery have to supply any voltage for the machine to start? My brother's 2011 13" MBP can start with the battery removed.

I cleaned a small amount of corrosion off of the battery connector on the battery side (not the logic board side).

Can anyone offer some advice?

tiriya
Dec 30, 2012, 08:26 PM
More news before/ in case anybody replies to my first question above (#1181).

About 10 hours ago, I did the following: Take out the adapter and the battery, press the power button for about 30 seconds. Leave.

After two hours, I plugged in the adapter and the computer could start without battery!.. (no need to do the "SMC-skip trick") Shut down and inserted the battery again.

(cannot find the link now, but on apple support forums, someone wrote that s/he had done more or less the same to a Macbook running 5.1 and it worked.).


Now, the sole problem I have left with is the "sleep" problem. The computer sleeps when the lid is closed, but not when I manually click on "sleep". (This should not be a software related problem as the same thing happens with different hard discs.)

Would this still mean that the logicboard is gone?

Thanks

cmdrdata
Dec 31, 2012, 09:42 AM
More news before/ in case anybody replies to my first question above (#1181).

About 10 hours ago, I did the following: Take out the adapter and the battery, press the power button for about 30 seconds. Leave.

After two hours, I plugged in the adapter and the computer could start without battery!.. (no need to do the "SMC-skip trick") Shut down and inserted the battery again.

(cannot find the link now, but on apple support forums, someone wrote that s/he had done more or less the same to a Macbook running 5.1 and it worked.).


Now, the sole problem I have left with is the "sleep" problem. The computer sleeps when the lid is closed, but not when I manually click on "sleep". (This should not be a software related problem as the same thing happens with different hard discs.)

Would this still mean that the logicboard is gone?

Thanks

I think your Mac is ok. In my MBA, when I select Apple -> Sleep, it took about 30 seconds before the screen goes dark.

tiriya
Dec 31, 2012, 03:10 PM
Thank you cmdrdata! It turned out to be ok indeed -- I changed the upper case and now it sleeps as well.

Disregard my previous questions please.

The discussion here is quite advanced; if "my experience" has any informational value then, it should consist of the following: Waiting a while after pressing the power button (described in the post above) helped with starting the system with only Magsafe, and changing the upper case solved the sleep problem (I cleaned the upper side of the logicboard with isopropyl alcohol when doing that -- probably, either this was the reason for the improvement or the old keyboard was sending key inputs hiddenly to prevent the sleep and the new one solved the problem)

Lambiquie
Jan 1, 2013, 11:07 AM
Hello,
I am trying to rescue my MacBook 13" (Unibody Late 2009 model A1342) that all of a suddend stopped working. There is no sign of life when you press the power button. No liquid damage - just stopped working.
The battey charging works fine, I can measure the G3HOT and 12V. When I try to boot connecting the pin 5 of the keyboard to ground and the baterry and the MagSafe are connected, the voltages 5V,3.3V, 1.05V appear and they are steadily available. When I try to boot when only the battery is connected, the 5V,3.3V, 1.05V appear for just several seconds and they are gone.

Have you ever seen such a behaviour?

Could you please help me to identify the long black element indicated as EAZ2 located close to the CPU and the MCP? The element indicated with the red line is connected to one of the pins of the EAZ2 and gives 0 oHm.
Logic board 820-2883-A.

Thanks,

mac-n-sauce
Jan 1, 2013, 06:27 PM
Hello,
I am trying to rescue my MacBook 13" (Unibody Late 2009 model A1342) that all of a suddend stopped working. There is no sign of life when you press the power button. No liquid damage - just stopped working.
The battey charging works fine, I can measure the G3HOT and 12V. When I try to boot connecting the pin 5 of the keyboard to ground and the baterry and the MagSafe are connected, the voltages 5V,3.3V, 1.05V appear and they are steadily available. When I try to boot when only the battery is connected, the 5V,3.3V, 1.05V appear for just several seconds and they are gone.

Have you ever seen such a behaviour?

Could you please help me to identify the long black element indicated as EAZ2 located close to the CPU and the MCP? The element indicated with the red line is connected to one of the pins of the EAZ2 and gives 0 oHm.
Logic board 820-2883-A.

Thanks,
The device is Y2810 found on page 24 of the schematic. See attached. I do not believe this is your issue. Have you removed your memory one at a time and tested?

mac-n-sauce
Jan 1, 2013, 10:50 PM
Ok, I have a 13" 2009 MBP 2.53GHz. Green light on magsafe, will not charge battery. Will not boot with magsafe. Will only boot with charged battery. Then works fine. It works with or without magsafe plugged in as long as the battery is charged.

Any thoughts?

Lambiquie
Jan 2, 2013, 01:35 AM
The device is Y2810 found on page 24 of the schematic. See attached. I do not believe this is your issue. Have you removed your memory one at a time and tested?

Thank you, mac-n-sauce,
Yes, I had done it - one memory at a time, as well as a temporary SMC bypass - still the same behaviour.
You are right about the Y2810 - as we see on the schematic , R2810 is indicated as 0 - exactly what I measure.
Will continue searching ...

cmdrdata
Jan 2, 2013, 01:02 PM
Ok, I have a 13" 2009 MBP 2.53GHz. Green light on magsafe, will not charge battery. Will not boot with magsafe. Will only boot with charged battery. Then works fine. It works with or without magsafe plugged in as long as the battery is charged.

Any thoughts?

With magsafe only, do you measure 12v at the fuse near the battery connector? If not then you need to back track from the DCIN board and see where the 16.5/18.5v DCIN failed to be regulated by the ISL6258 or ISL6259 via the push-pull FETs. The green light only indicates that the SMC is able to communicate with the magsafe via the serial data line, and indicates that it recognizes the magsafe's presence.

Musicsoul78
Jan 2, 2013, 04:24 PM
my readings are:
0.3 - 0 - 0.3 - 0 - 0.3 on de solder spots
and:
0 - 0 - 0.2 - 0.2 - 0.1 on he connector that should go into the MBA

(my gnd is on the metal lip

So thx! ordering a dcin board from ebay. hopefully the logic board is not damaged :(fingers crossed the new dc in will fix you issue...
;)

docentore
Jan 3, 2013, 06:08 AM
Hi all, great thread, great help can be found here. I need some help from you guys. I hav 13 MBPRO 2010 2.4 after water damage.
Most damage was done around U7000.
All cleaned etc. now what happens:
1. when battery is in and I connect magsafe - starts on its own
2. No magsafe but battery in - I can start either through power button or using smc bypass.

In both cases macbook gives me 1 beep - no memory, with the ram or without. RAM is 100%. Nothing on the screen

G3 is 3.39 (might my meter is a bit off)

Got some measurment from the U7000:
1 - 0v
2 - 15.9
3 - 3.8v
4 - 0
6 - 3.35
7 - 0
8 - 2
9 - 0.87
10 - 3.3
11 - 3.3
12 3.4
14 - 2
16 - 5
18 - 12.5
20 - 5
21 - 0.5
23 - 2.3
24 - 16.3
25 17.4
28 - 16.4

1.5v and 0.75v for memory is present, 1v for cpu and 5v for usb is there


Also what I noticed that I dont have 18.5 around U5805? IC was replace along with diode and choker - still no joy.

I found out that the problem with mac turning itself on is due to faulty battery. Still can't figure it out why it doesn't recognize RAM.

debo160
Jan 4, 2013, 06:34 AM
Hello folks!! I have been missing here for a while. I just picked up a Macbook pro 15 I5 that has wine damage. The keyboard has died but it will come on with the short pins. But only for a few seconds. It does charge and battery indictor also works. Does anyone no where to start with this one? I have not cleaned it yet but it doesn't look to be a terrible spill.

I also have a 1342 board that had a charging issue, i tried to remove the chip at 280 to 300 degrees with a hot air station. Normally these come right off but this one is pretty stubborn. any suggestions would be great. i didn't want to burn the board out.

Thanks:D

Yako76
Jan 5, 2013, 08:33 AM
Hello Friens,
I have a problem with my MB unibody. No power, no led light.
I make the measurement on board and no power on G3Hot. I removed the D6905 and now I have the 16,5v on the first Fuse and the magsafe light burn really dimm. I don't find any information about this D6905. On the schematic the name is HN2D01JEAPE, no match in net.
Have you any Idea where can I buy this piece?
Thanks a lot in advance!

Musicsoul78
Jan 5, 2013, 10:08 AM
Hello folks!! I have been missing here for a while. I just picked up a Macbook pro 15 I5 that has wine damage. The keyboard has died but it will come on with the short pins. But only for a few seconds. It does charge and battery indictor also works. Does anyone no where to start with this one? I have not cleaned it yet but it doesn't look to be a terrible spill.

I also have a 1342 board that had a charging issue, i tried to remove the chip at 280 to 300 degrees with a hot air station. Normally these come right off but this one is pretty stubborn. any suggestions would be great. i didn't want to burn the board out.

Thanks:D


1, clean board first with isopropyl ....... then test power! never do it before...
2, removal of chips is best done with loads of flux.. and i mean lots and a tiny bit of solder on soldering iron just to transfer heat. then it should come straight of

----------

Hello Friens,
I have a problem with my MB unibody. No power, no led light.
I make the measurement on board and no power on G3Hot. I removed the D6905 and now I have the 16,5v on the first Fuse and the magsafe light burn really dimm. I don't find any information about this D6905. On the schematic the name is HN2D01JEAPE, no match in net.
Have you any Idea where can I buy this piece?
Thanks a lot in advance!

cmrdata is your man for this?

Anyway i have 2 of these boards
where is the d6905 locacted???
do you have an image from which i can see??
might be able to remove mine and send it you!

Musicsoul78
Jan 5, 2013, 10:22 AM
Part identify please please

can any one identify the parts labeled in red

Thanks in advance

also please post on here if you need help identifying other parts

Yako76
Jan 5, 2013, 02:18 PM
1, clean board first with isopropyl ....... then test power! never do it before...
2, removal of chips is best done with loads of flux.. and i mean lots and a tiny bit of solder on soldering iron just to transfer heat. then it should come straight of

----------



cmrdata is your man for this?

Anyway i have 2 of these boards
where is the d6905 locacted???
do you have an image from which i can see??
might be able to remove mine and send it you!

Hello Musicsoul,
I post you the picture of D6905.
I hope you can help me

Thanks a lot!

cmdrdata
Jan 5, 2013, 03:02 PM
Hello Friens,
I have a problem with my MB unibody. No power, no led light.
I make the measurement on board and no power on G3Hot. I removed the D6905 and now I have the 16,5v on the first Fuse and the magsafe light burn really dimm. I don't find any information about this D6905. On the schematic the name is HN2D01JEAPE, no match in net.
Have you any Idea where can I buy this piece?
Thanks a lot in advance!

Without looking at schematic (just going by memory), D6905 is dual diode package (see attached), that routes raw DC power (16.5v) from magsafe or battery (12v) to the G3HOT circuit. Without either of these, you will NOT get 3.4v needed for signaling between SMC and various other power control logic. For example, the I2L serial data/clock lines are normally pulled up to G3HOT level (3.4v) when not being pulsed to communicate to/from the SMC. So the first order of business should be to get the G3HOT voltage working. Without G3HOT, I think nothing will start, not even SMC bypass mode. Then start looking at the 16.5v flow to the protection circuit (overvoltage/overcurrent), then to the creation of 12v PPBUS_G3H and lastly the charger path.

PS: When looking for part number in the internet, I usually skip the last few letter codes (typically packaging type). So if you search for HN2D01JE you'd found lots of info and datasheet for that part.

Yako76
Jan 5, 2013, 03:32 PM
Without looking at schematic (just going by memory), D6905 is dual diode package (see attached), that routes raw DC power (16.5v) from magsafe or battery (12v) to the G3HOT circuit. Without either of these, you will NOT get 3.4v needed for signaling between SMC and various other power control logic. For example, the I2L serial data/clock lines are normally pulled up to G3HOT level (3.4v) when not being pulsed to communicate to/from the SMC. So the first order of business should be to get the G3HOT voltage working. Without G3HOT, I think nothing will start, not even SMC bypass mode. Then start looking at the 16.5v flow to the protection circuit (overvoltage/overcurrent), then to the creation of 12v PPBUS_G3H and lastly the charger path.

PS: When looking for part number in the internet, I usually skip the last few letter codes (typically packaging type). So if you search for HN2D01JE you'd found lots of info and datasheet for that part.

Many many thanks for your explaination.
I will order this part and inform you.
Best Regards.

Musicsoul78
Jan 5, 2013, 08:52 PM
Many many thanks for your explaination.
I will order this part and inform you.
Best Regards.
Don't you just love Cmrdata knowledge on these components and how they work, anyway Yako if you still get stuck I can desolder the part and send you it. or if its another part you need let me
Send me the picture and I will remove it. Better to make someone else's board work if not your own.

dmit2k
Jan 6, 2013, 08:22 AM
I have had a water damaged Late 2008 unibody MacBook with the following symptoms:

When you turn on the MacBook the magsafe lights go orange, the system shows "0% Charging" but battery information is not being read. After some minutes it timeouts, magsafe lights go green and black X shows up.

At the same time led battery indicators do not work neither way.

After replacing the mainboard and battery for the new ones the problem still persists.

Accidentally I discovered that the problem was with the water damaged led indicator module - it prevented the SMC to communicate with the battery. Once I disconnect it from the main board, the system detects and reads battery OK and starts to charge it.

Problem solved.

Yako76
Jan 6, 2013, 12:42 PM
Don't you just love Cmrdata knowledge on these components and how they work, anyway Yako if you still get stuck I can desolder the part and send you it. or if its another part you need let me
Send me the picture and I will remove it. Better to make someone else's board work if not your own.

Thanks a lot my friend.
I wrote to Chinese company who has this part, and I order so of that.
If I need moor Parts I will back to you!

Best Regards!

Musicsoul78
Jan 6, 2013, 04:39 PM
I have had a water damaged Late 2008 unibody MacBook with the following symptoms:

When you turn on the MacBook the magsafe lights go orange, the system shows "0% Charging" but battery information is not being read. After some minutes it timeouts, magsafe lights go green and black X shows up.

At the same time led battery indicators do not work neither way.

After replacing the mainboard and battery for the new ones the problem still persists.

Accidentally I discovered that the problem was with the water damaged led indicator module - it prevented the SMC to communicate with the battery. Once I disconnect it from the main board, the system detects and reads battery OK and starts to charge it.

Problem solved.
good work

i would of tested out of chassis to of come to the same
resolve.;)

Musicsoul78
Jan 6, 2013, 05:05 PM
I'll get this information for you tomorrow :) I got the component off of an doner board. I can get hold of the component for you if you like.

Lee

if there is any chance you can get hold of this componant this would be a life save as no one has seen it before or knows of it?????

G35C
Jan 7, 2013, 02:22 AM
Will not power on. Have 12V at fuse by battery. 3.39V at lower G3hot pad. 10.63 on 7149 chip pic attached (sorry its from my phone). The Magsafe indicator has normal behavior green-orange and charges battery. If I jump the G3hot pads nothing happens. Any suggestions for further diagnosis?

cmdrdata
Jan 7, 2013, 06:01 PM
Will not power on. Have 12V at fuse by battery. 3.39V at lower G3hot pad. 10.63 on 7149 chip pic attached (sorry its from my phone). The Magsafe indicator has normal behavior green-orange and charges battery. If I jump the G3hot pads nothing happens. Any suggestions for further diagnosis?

Attached is a page for MBP13U/2010 showing FETs 7149. If you get 12v at the fuse by the battery, then I don't understand what this 10.63v you are reading. Could it be that the 12v you saw by the fuse is the battery voltage?

G35C
Jan 7, 2013, 08:12 PM
Attached is a page for MBP13U/2010 showing FETs 7149. If you get 12v at the fuse by the battery, then I don't understand what this 10.63v you are reading. Could it be that the 12v you saw by the fuse is the battery voltage?

Ok just plugged it in. I'm reading 12.33 Volts at the fuse by the battery, 16.42 Volts at FETs 7149, 3.42 at G3Hot pad. I suspect my FET 7149 might be bad due to majority of corrosion at this FET. Cleaned up well but the solder connections look weak.

Hey i'm in San Antonio, Texas. I see your into cars too with the TT Supra. Any mods? I have a turbo G35C.

mm9
Jan 8, 2013, 02:56 AM
Could you please send me the image of Macbook Air 13 inches A1466 EFI

I need to get EFI image. Macbook was water damaged and EFI chip is fried as well as many others. I need an image to program replaced chip.

Could you please upload or send valid EFI image of this Macbook.

cmdrdata
Jan 8, 2013, 07:52 AM
Ok just plugged it in. I'm reading 12.33 Volts at the fuse by the battery, 16.42 Volts at FETs 7149, 3.42 at G3Hot pad. I suspect my FET 7149 might be bad due to majority of corrosion at this FET. Cleaned up well but the solder connections look weak.

Hey i'm in San Antonio, Texas. I see your into cars too with the TT Supra. Any mods? I have a turbo G35C.

Based on these readings, your main power system is functional (12v at fuse near the battery and battery can be charged, and correct LED status). SO the problem is now more complex because system startup from this point on depends on all other SECONDARY power supplies being OK (see signal called ALL_SYS_PWRGOOD or something like that), sensors returning correct status, etc. If you get past this, then the system will go through POST and then a beep or "bong" before attempting to boot from boot device, i.e., HD.

PS: My TT is totally pristine, no mods and never been raced.

Brabusf4
Jan 8, 2013, 04:56 PM
I have a water damaged Late 2011 unibody MacBook Pro 13, with the following symptoms: Working only with battery or charging it with magsafe works 100% but when battery is completly charged with magsafe and light goes green, macbook shutdowns itself.
With complete battery and magsafe connected always shutdowns itself after boot OS X

Musicsoul78
Jan 8, 2013, 05:38 PM
I have a water damaged Late 2011 unibody MacBook Pro 13, with the following symptoms: Working only with battery or charging it with magsafe works 100% but when battery is completly charged with magsafe and light goes green, macbook shutdowns itself.
With complete battery and magsafe connected always shutdowns itself after boot OS X

its looks like it shutting down as soon as the the charging senor returns with signal full, there fore it turns to full mags safe power and shuts down....

q. Does it still power up and stay on with battery removed and just mag safe power..?

if it does not then you need to repair the damage caused by the corrosion on the main power line.


if you get a boardview or schematic we can take a closer look also a pic of motherboard would be nice to see corrosive areas

Brabusf4
Jan 9, 2013, 12:12 PM
its looks like it shutting down as soon as the the charging senor returns with signal full, there fore it turns to full mags safe power and shuts down....

q. Does it still power up and stay on with battery removed and just mag safe power..?

if it does not then you need to repair the damage caused by the corrosion on the main power line.


if you get a boardview or schematic we can take a closer look also a pic of motherboard would be nice to see corrosive areas

Hi guys:
Today I cleaned logic board for second time, test it and same issue, when battery is complete and light of magsafe goes green MBP shuts down itself after 3-5min working.
When Mbp is off with full battery and magsafe connected, green led flashing.
Test it without battery, MBP shutdowns after 3-5min, same symthoms thath 100% battery and magsafe connected.
Any ideas?

Regards

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2557

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2558

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2559

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2560

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2565

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2561

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2562

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2563

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2564

http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2565

Musicsoul78
Jan 10, 2013, 12:57 PM
Hi guys:
Today I cleaned logic board for second time, test it and same issue, when battery is complete and light of magsafe goes green MBP shuts down itself after 3-5min working.
When Mbp is off with full battery and magsafe connected, green led flashing.
Test it without battery, MBP shutdowns after 3-5min, same symthoms thath 100% battery and magsafe connected.
Any ideas?

Regards

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2557)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2558)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2559)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2560)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2565)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2561)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2562)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2563)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2564)

Image (http://forums.macrumors.com/picture.php?albumid=841&pictureid=2565)

great pics btw

i need you to run ASD 3s144

i think its going to fail on one of the sensors (a nor) maybe?check pic for area

wont know until you run the test.
also will it boot with just the battery and no mag safe?

jrzzz
Jan 10, 2013, 02:39 PM
WOOOOOOOO
replaced the dc-in board, and the battery is chargin..
I'll wait for about an hour and then do a test run if everything is fine

thank you soooooooo much!

(ordered a dc in board from ebay)

Brabusf4
Jan 10, 2013, 03:51 PM
great pics btw

i need you to run ASD 3s144

i think its going to fail on one of the sensors (a nor) maybe?check pic for area

wont know until you run the test.
also will it boot with just the battery and no mag safe?

Hi!
Im now downloading ASD 3s144 for test it.
Mbp boot perfect with just battery and also with battery and magsafe connected if battery is charging (orange magsafe led) :confused::confused:

cmdrdata
Jan 11, 2013, 04:22 PM
Hi!
Im now downloading ASD 3s144 for test it.
Mbp boot perfect with just battery and also with battery and magsafe connected if battery is charging (orange magsafe led) :confused::confused:

The MBP turned off Q7055 when the battery is fully charged and magsafe is connected. So I suspect that the 12v is not being generated by the magsafe through Q7030/Q7035 pair and thus the system shuts down after the battery is fully charged. Hopefully the ASD will tell you which sensor is not sending the correct signal to stay on.

G35C
Jan 11, 2013, 07:40 PM
Hello
Great forum :)
Iam working on a water damaged macbook pro 13 2010 A1278 EMC:2351.
The mac charges the battery and G3hot is good. But it wont start :confused: Great if someone could help me out where to look.
?

Thanks

I have this exact same problem. Dadioh or anybody else, what next steps should i take for further diagnosis. I put the board into a good chasis so I know keyboard and everything else works.

Dadioh
Jan 11, 2013, 07:58 PM
I have this exact same problem. Dadioh or anybody else, what next steps should i take for further diagnosis. I put the board into a good chasis so I know keyboard and everything else works.

Pin 14 must be at 3V (maybe 3.3V). This is a signal out from the Charger IC telling the SMC that the charger circuit is OK. If it is low then it will not send the middle signal to the magsafe to provide full charge circuit. And the SMC will not allow a system start.

I believe your issue is with the charging circuit. Troubleshooting it is not trivial.

G35C
Jan 11, 2013, 08:37 PM
Pin 14 must be at 3V (maybe 3.3V). This is a signal out from the Charger IC telling the SMC that the charger circuit is OK. If it is low then it will not send the middle signal to the magsafe to provide full charge circuit. And the SMC will not allow a system start.

I believe your issue is with the charging circuit. Troubleshooting it is not trivial.

I should have mentioned that my magsafe indicator will turn orange and will charge the battery normally.

G35C
Jan 11, 2013, 08:40 PM
Pin 14 must be at 3V (maybe 3.3V). This is a signal out from the Charger IC telling the SMC that the charger circuit is OK. If it is low then it will not send the middle signal to the magsafe to provide full charge circuit. And the SMC will not allow a system start.

I believe your issue is with the charging circuit. Troubleshooting it is not trivial.

My bad, put the wrong image. Here is what i'm looking at

Dadioh
Jan 11, 2013, 08:41 PM
I should have mentioned that my magsafe indicator will turn orange and will charge the battery normally.

Hmmm. Then you can not possibly have less than 3V on pin 14. Otherwise the signal to tell the magsafe to provide power and change to orange would not occur. Maybe you are having trouble getting the meter probe onto pin 14?

Dadioh
Jan 11, 2013, 08:50 PM
My bad, put the wrong image. Here is what i'm looking at

OK that makes more sense.

The voltages look OK. Check the 5V and 3.3V power as well. It is the small device near the wifi connection. I can't remember the exact points to measure but there are test points that can be used so you don't have to probe on the chip itself.

Dadioh
Jan 11, 2013, 08:53 PM
Sorry I haven't been too visible in the thread lately. Bad flu going through my whole family since Christmas. Will try and catch up a bit later. But there are also a few other very talented people pitching in on the thread and we all truly appreciate that :)

Musicsoul78
Jan 12, 2013, 09:41 AM
WOOOOOOOO
replaced the dc-in board, and the battery is chargin..
I'll wait for about an hour and then do a test run if everything is fine

thank you soooooooo much!

(ordered a dc in board from ebay)

glad to help buddy...
another one is saved :D

Lambiquie
Jan 12, 2013, 09:45 AM
Hello,
I am trying to rescue my MacBook 13" (Unibody Late 2009 model A1342) that all of a suddend stopped working. There is no sign of life when you press the power button. No liquid damage - just stopped working.
The battey charging works fine, I can measure the G3HOT and 12V. When I try to boot connecting the pin 5 of the keyboard to ground and the baterry and the MagSafe are connected, the voltages 5V,3.3V, 1.05V appear and they are steadily available. When I try to boot when only the battery is connected, the 5V,3.3V, 1.05V appear for just several seconds and they are gone.

Have you ever seen such a behaviour?


Hello,
Have you ever replaced the 7A fuse (F7000) of the 12V main power? I made a short while troubleshooting and I have to replace this fuse now. I see that a fuse like that can be bought at Farnell, but I am not sure if I should buy a slow or a fast one. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Musicsoul78
Jan 12, 2013, 10:06 AM
Hi all,

welcome Back Dadioh, luckly mr data was producing the goods in your absence .

My question is ethernet port not working , internal system recognizes hardware but there is no power or data being transferred.

So is this fuse supposed to be open ... see pic

and if not what is its value... so i can replace

also the same board suffered compression damage, force trauma around that same area and its causing mag safe to flicker green vigorously and it still powers on, then a solid green light forms. after then turn off, the green light flickers again.

voltages are unstable through out so i need to single out the stabilizing packets, its as if the sense line is beings manipulated by inconsistent voltages or there is too much power being supplied and its overflowing everywhere. any ideas?

many thanks in advance

kennethf
Jan 12, 2013, 02:42 PM
Need help on this to find out why it wont fire up. I have added some mesurements on the pictures.

Thanks guys :)

G35C
Jan 13, 2013, 11:27 PM
Need help on this to find out why it wont fire up. I have added some mesurements on the pictures.

Thanks guys :)

I have the exact same issue. Have you tried to taking out the RAM and turning it on. If you hear a beep at least you know the cpu is in order. No beep bad cpu.

kennethf
Jan 14, 2013, 03:32 PM
I have the exact same issue. Have you tried to taking out the RAM and turning it on. If you hear a beep at least you know the cpu is in order. No beep bad cpu.

I have tried this but no success, I think there have to be no problems with the voltage on the boards before the mac can "beep". I have problems to find out why I dont get 5V on the board. I have 5V at VREG5 but no were else :confused:

Do you have 5V any place?

G35C
Jan 14, 2013, 07:42 PM
I have tried this but no success, I think there have to be no problems with the voltage on the boards before the mac can "beep". I have problems to find out why I dont get 5V on the board. I have 5V at VREG5 but no were else :confused:

Do you have 5V any place?

Ignore my previous comment as it relates to a different board. My board has the same Voltage readings as pictured in your post with no power at all so no beep test can be conducted.

G35C
Jan 14, 2013, 07:52 PM
OK that makes more sense.

The voltages look OK. Check the 5V and 3.3V power as well. It is the small device near the wifi connection. I can't remember the exact points to measure but there are test points that can be used so you don't have to probe on the chip itself.

Hi Dadioh, I checked for Voltage in that area with no sign of power. Do you have a specific point I can try? What is the solution if there is no power in the area. Thanks so much....

Brabusf4
Jan 15, 2013, 05:41 AM
great pics btw

i need you to run ASD 3s144

i think its going to fail on one of the sensors (a nor) maybe?check pic for area

wont know until you run the test.
also will it boot with just the battery and no mag safe?

Hi Guys,
Today I ran the Apple ASD and no errors were detected. All test in ASD EFI OS and ASD OS passed with OK. Any other ideas?

rickAC
Jan 15, 2013, 05:08 PM
I have mbp 15", i5, 2010 (820-2850). I checked the logic board and found out that charger IC was faulty. Replaced it with a new one and it worked fine a couple of days. I observed that the big IC (North Bridge?) which is not cooled was about 60-70 C.

Now the machine won't start. The fans spin for about 4-5 sec. with blank display than it restarts and so on. The charger IC has the right values (12,5V on PPBUS) and there is a steady green led on magsafe.

The funny thing is that when I coincindentally touched with my finger around an IC the fans worked continuosly and CPU and GPU gets warm but again nothing on display. This IC is U7300 (supply voltages for DDR RAM).

Anybody can help?

Dadioh
Jan 15, 2013, 09:48 PM
Hi Dadioh, I checked for Voltage in that area with no sign of power. Do you have a specific point I can try? What is the solution if there is no power in the area. Thanks so much....

You can test on the ends of some of the caps around the 5V/3.3V chip (don't have a board in front of me right now). If you don't see any voltages that would be a big part of your problem. Check the schematic for the 5V and 3.3V supply to verify further but it sounds like that guy is bad.

----------

Here is an interesting one. I have a MBP 13 2011 model (i5 2.4GHz). It was a wine spill victim. I cleaned it up in my ultrasonic cleaner and got everything sparkly again. Then discovered that the charger IC ISL6259 was bad. So I replaced that and wasn't getting green or amber LED and no boot.

Then I noticed the battery was very low (<8V) so I pulled it out and put in another battery that was already charged. Pushed the button and was surprised to hear the chime and system booted. All of a sudden the green/amber LED was working on the magsafe :confused:

When I shut down the machine, the magsafe charging stops and I lose the LED's. As soon as I boot that circuit starts working again. Very odd.

Any ideas on what could be causing the charger circuit to only work when the system has turned on? In this state, if you ever drained your battery you would not get this machine running again unless you marginally charged it on another machine first.

Open to suggestions....

cmdrdata
Jan 16, 2013, 10:52 AM
Here is an interesting one. I have a MBP 13 2011 model (i5 2.4GHz). It was a wine spill victim. I cleaned it up in my ultrasonic cleaner and got everything sparkly again. Then discovered that the charger IC ISL6259 was bad. So I replaced that and wasn't getting green or amber LED and no boot.

Then I noticed the battery was very low (<8V) so I pulled it out and put in another battery that was already charged. Pushed the button and was surprised to hear the chime and system booted. All of a sudden the green/amber LED was working on the magsafe :confused:

When I shut down the machine, the magsafe charging stops and I lose the LED's. As soon as I boot that circuit starts working again. Very odd.

Any ideas on what could be causing the charger circuit to only work when the system has turned on? In this state, if you ever drained your battery you would not get this machine running again unless you marginally charged it on another machine first.

Open to suggestions....

With just the magsafe connected (no battery) and system not turned on, do you have G3HOT? Since G3HOT is the power that is always on if magsafe or battery is connected (older system use D6905 as raw input source to it), nothing will start without it. I think when you connected a good battery to it, G3HOT then becomes active from the 12v and thus it enable the system to boot (assuming all other logic is ok, which your system seemed to be).

rickAC
Jan 16, 2013, 10:55 AM
You can test on the ends of some of the caps around the 5V/3.3V chip (don't have a board in front of me right now). If you don't see any voltages that would be a big part of your problem. Check the schematic for the 5V and 3.3V supply to verify further but it sounds like that guy is bad.

----------

Here is an interesting one. I have a MBP 13 2011 model (i5 2.4GHz). It was a wine spill victim. I cleaned it up in my ultrasonic cleaner and got everything sparkly again. Then discovered that the charger IC ISL6259 was bad. So I replaced that and wasn't getting green or amber LED and no boot.

Then I noticed the battery was very low (<8V) so I pulled it out and put in another battery that was already charged. Pushed the button and was surprised to hear the chime and system booted. All of a sudden the green/amber LED was working on the magsafe :confused:

When I shut down the machine, the magsafe charging stops and I lose the LED's. As soon as I boot that circuit starts working again. Very odd.

Any ideas on what could be causing the charger circuit to only work when the system has turned on? In this state, if you ever drained your battery you would not get this machine running again unless you marginally charged it on another machine first.

Open to suggestions....

Maybe you should first check voltages on charger IC ISL6259 when the machine is shut down. I have experienced twice that after I changed it it needed more reflow.

kennethf
Jan 16, 2013, 11:47 AM
Anyone have some mesurements around an working 5V/3.3V regulator(U7200) to compare with the one I have taken?

Dadioh
Jan 16, 2013, 03:09 PM
With just the magsafe connected (no battery) and system not turned on, do you have G3HOT? Since G3HOT is the power that is always on if magsafe or battery is connected (older system use D6905 as raw input source to it), nothing will start without it. I think when you connected a good battery to it, G3HOT then becomes active from the 12v and thus it enable the system to boot (assuming all other logic is ok, which your system seemed to be).

I believe so but this was late last night when I got the oh so welcome chime so I haven't had a chance to spend any time on it. As was suggested I need to document some of the voltages around the charger both with and without battery/magsafe connected and also system on and off. Entirely possible one of the pins is not soldered correctly. These QFN's are tough.

I will report back when I figure it out. Was hoping someone else had seen this before and had figured it out. But that would spoil all my fun :p

Musicsoul78
Jan 16, 2013, 07:22 PM
I believe so but this was late last night when I got the oh so welcome chime so I haven't had a chance to spend any time on it. As was suggested I need to document some of the voltages around the charger both with and without battery/magsafe connected and also system on and off. Entirely possible one of the pins is not soldered correctly. These QFN's are tough.

I will report back when I figure it out. Was hoping someone else had seen this before and had figured it out. But that would spoil all my fun :p

i did have this problem on a mb 13 unibody ,
then 3 days ago it died completely.

so sorry dadioh i have no readings for you.

mine did have a dry solder joint issues if that helps at all

G35C
Jan 17, 2013, 12:45 AM
You can test on the ends of some of the caps around the 5V/3.3V chip (don't have a board in front of me right now). If you don't see any voltages that would be a big part of your problem. Check the schematic for the 5V and 3.3V supply to verify further but it sounds like that guy is bad.[COLOR="#808080"]


Thanks so much for getting back to me! I found VREG5 with no Voltage (should be 5V??) Also, no voltage at Q7930. I don't have a schematic so i can't trouble the 3v/5v supply.

Musicsoul78
Jan 17, 2013, 07:00 PM
mbp 15" a1286 2008 water spill

i have this problem

cleaned everything all is fine charging and booting passed all tests on ASD

however keyboard is complete gibberish and keys are un responsive,

replaced with 2 known good keyboards... same problem

plugged in external keyboard all is fine...

is there a packet that controls keyboard controls on the logic board

and if so where is it ???


many thanks guys

cmdrdata
Jan 17, 2013, 07:23 PM
Thanks so much for getting back to me! I found VREG5 with no Voltage (should be 5V??) Also, no voltage at Q7930. I don't have a schematic so i can't trouble the 3v/5v supply.

Here's a typical 5v and 3.3v schematic for mid 2010 MBP13U.

cmdrdata
Jan 17, 2013, 07:37 PM
mbp 15" a1286 2008 water spill

i have this problem

cleaned everything all is fine charging and booting passed all tests on ASD

however keyboard is complete gibberish and keys are un responsive,

replaced with 2 known good keyboards... same problem

plugged in external keyboard all is fine...

is there a packet that controls keyboard controls on the logic board

and if so where is it ???


many thanks guys

External keyboard, if USB connected is probably sending serial data for various key presses and thus get decoded by the keyboard decoder chip internally. The laptop keyboard on the other hand are parallel coded input WS_KBDnn (where nn = 1 thru 23) that are sensed directly by the chip and active lines are turned to logic one/tru signal. You may have an open line someplace, a pull up resistor or voltage supply to the keyboard or perhaps a couple of adjacent signals are shorted together thus resulting in gibberish code to the CPU.

rajdeepsingh7
Jan 17, 2013, 08:41 PM
Firstly,
as a first year engineer in uni, still deciding to choose what area I want to get into; after reading this thread, I'm getting a bit excited about electrical engineering. It seems so interesting....and so endless; but hey, that seems like the fun part.
But honestly, I feel like I've learnt something skimming over the past pages!

Now to what brings me here. Same deal as most people, power problem with the Macbook Pro, though it's a 15 Inch, 2010 model, and though it's been mentioned throughout this thread, I've had trouble getting the basics of what I need to test out. I've the done the general business, including isopropyl cleaning and compressed air etc. and now I've just reached the point where I've had enough of wishy washy online tech forums and just want to get to the bottom of this so I know where I can go from here.

I've attached a multimeter reading of few of the points I feel I should include,
Let me know if I should upload anymore/I have a feeling looking at some of the other uploads that I'll be testing many more points.

I have tried shorting the Power Pads, but unfortunately it doesn't come to life, though the power pads do show a voltage difference.

Hopefully you can help me get to the bottom of this!

EDIT: Forgot to add exact details. MBP does not boot up, or power on. Have had this problem since this started. Was able to diagnose that the magsafe board itself was faulty, so I replaced it with a new one.
Prior to replacement, there was no light on the magsafe charger, and after replacing, there was a solid green light. A day later though, plugging the charger in, there is no light, but at closer inspection, it seems that one of the pins is stuck, so I have to give it a fiddle and try and fix it.
Regardless though, with or without the power, the Macbook does not boot up, though the battery capacity indicator shows roughly half of the indicator dots.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/541/lzolo.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/541/lzolo.jpg/

Musicsoul78
Jan 18, 2013, 04:34 AM
External keyboard, if USB connected is probably sending serial data for various key presses and thus get decoded by the keyboard decoder chip internally. The laptop keyboard on the other hand are parallel coded input WS_KBDnn (where nn = 1 thru 23) that are sensed directly by the chip and active lines are turned to logic one/tru signal. You may have an open line someplace, a pull up resistor or voltage supply to the keyboard or perhaps a couple of adjacent signals are shorted together thus resulting in gibberish code to the CPU.

This is great !!
Would you happen to know the location of this chip???
CPU side??
I knew you would know top man Cmrdata !

cmdrdata
Jan 18, 2013, 09:26 AM
This is great !!
Would you happen to know the location of this chip???
CPU side??
I knew you would know top man Cmrdata !

Nope. I don't have the schematic or boardview file for your specific MBP. In a couple of schematics I have for MBPs, this is U5701 or CY8C24794, a 56-pin chip produced by Cypress Semiconductor.

Musicsoul78
Jan 18, 2013, 04:38 PM
Nope. I don't have the schematic or boardview file for your specific MBP. In a couple of schematics I have for MBPs, this is U5701 or CY8C24794, a 56-pin chip produced by Cypress Semiconductor.

NICE ONE DATA ....
FOUND IT!

Cleaned
Heat flowed off
heat flowed back on
Cleaned again
Reassembled
job done

carmen
whos machines you helped fix
says a Big Thank YOU

Conor47
Jan 20, 2013, 12:34 PM
I hope me adding here is not considered rude and no offense is taken. I have read this thread with interest and thought I might be able to add a small tid bit to help the great minds working on this problem sift out more of what is happening. I don't believe this is a bypass of the SMC, rather it has been put in a debugging mode. You can still monitor battery charging with CoconutBattery. I believe the SMC is what reports this.

I am having SMC issues with my macbook pro (early 2011). I seen here that the SMC may have been put into a debugging mode. Is there a way of getting it out of this mode? I just want to try everything within my capabilities before i have to go and pay for it to be repaired. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

qaiser57
Jan 23, 2013, 12:59 AM
In the hopes of generating some technical sharing on this particular HW issue I am starting up a thread to share the symptoms and potential solution to what appears to be a fairly common failure mode on the Macbook Pro 13" (and possible other unibody Macbooks). I suspect these are usually the result of some trauma or liquid spill that damages some aspect of the SMC control circuit. Please feel free to add your own experiences/symptoms and hopefully we can get close to the HW solution.

The symptoms:
The MBP will appear to be completely dead. No response to power button. No response to standard SMC reset procedure.

Temporary bypass:
With the magsafe disconnected press and hold the power button. While continuing to hold the power button plug in the magsafe connector. Continue to hold down the power button for 5 to 10 seconds. Release the power button and wait a couple of seconds. Now press and release power button. PRESTO! The Macbook chimes and starts up but with fan on high speed. Boots up into OSX but with a few caveats which I list below:

Fan runs on high speed.
iStat menus can not sense either temperature or fan speed so access to those sensors is not there. Probably why the fans run on high.
No voltages or power displayed by iStat
"About this Mac" can not see the battery even though it is plugged in.
Does not charge the battery.
Everything else seems to work (Airport, USB, iSight, DVD, Disk)



Taken from the Apple support page about resetting the SMC suggests all of these symptoms are related to non-communication with the SMC. Not sure at the moment why the plugging in of the magsafe while holding the power allows the system to boot. Maybe bypasses some sort of SMC check?


The System Management Controller (SMC) is responsible for many low-level functions on Intel-based Macs. These functions include:

Responding to presses of the power button
Responding to display lid opening and closing on portable Macs
Battery management
Thermal management
The SMS (Sudden Motion Sensor)
Ambient light sensing
Keyboard backlighting
Status Indicator Light (SIL) management
Battery status indicator lights
Selecting an external (instead of internal) video source for some iMac displays

Hi,I bought the new MBP in August 2011 and on 20.01.13 I faced MBP does not power on after performing the following.
1-Disconnect the battery with care.
2-Replace the hard drive.
3-MBP does not power on.
4-Check the battery indicator by pressing the small button near the indicator leds but no light.
5-Put the old hard drive but could not power on MBP.
Perform the smc reset as describe by apple but of no use.When connected the charger to do smc reset the charger green light fade in few seconds.The battery level was 85% when started the adventure,to cross check the battery I checked the voltage at the connector position but nothing measured,then I connected the charger and check again but no voltage.can you please help me to find out what has gone wrong.
Take care.
:eek: