Okay, I hear you.
Money makes the world go round, and I guess I got carried away a bit.
Opinions may differ, but here goes (before I try to address specifics):
If it were me, I'd rather use a Røde NT3 (it's a mono-microphone) add a 9-volt battery inside it (there's room for it - and it givs you the power to use a recorder without 48 volts of phantom power), and buy a cheap(ish) recorder instead of using an audio interface. The reason being, of course, that it will allow you to record your voice and instruments in places it would be awkward to do otherwise. But then again, my background is properly a big influence here.
The internal microphone sucks. It's that simple. The microphone, and it's placement, is what really, really matters. It's akin to saying you will be using laptop speakers as your monitors. The only difference being, that the recording itself CAN be better than the speakers, but if you use the internal microphone, it will sound as those lappy speakers no matter how good equipment you play it on, if that makes sense?
Also, using the internal microphone will go you no way to record close-up and so on. It's even worse than using a dictaphone for this – I kid you not. If you're willing to look at cheap recorders (I'm thinking with inbuilt microphones with a jack for an external self-powered one), just ask and I'll try to recommend something (with prices). Don't worry, I won't recommend what I use ;-)
Here's the thing, if you start with something with an inbuilt microphone, you can add a microphone along the way. However, I truly recommend you buy at least one part the best you can afford, and here I am thinking of the headphones. If you buy, say, an Edirol R9 (the newer) or a Tascam DR-1 you will hav fetures in thm just for blokes like you, and you can later add a better microphone. However, if you buy the 280s headphones, you might want to swap them later on.
Okay, specifics:
You speak of jamming with your friends. You definately want a stereo microphone later on. And you also want to consider acoustics in your recording room (i.e. your room). Not that I want you to change anything, but you might want to be able to choose a different place to record. On the other hand, it might be the greatest room since the toilet was invented (lol), but beware of annoying reflections, background noises and so on.
I agree that there's a long way from $500 to $700. I used the Senny USA MSRP as a guide, and then went looking for cheaper HD25-1s. That's why I said you could get 25-1s to rival the price of the 280s. I can see why you don't want to up the spending that much.
Don't buy the NT1-A to begin with (your holiday is safe!), either go the recorder-route sans microphone or go the "internal battery" route. Or go both.
And now I need to quote you, so you know where I am in your post:
What i would like to know is whether either of you are willing/able to compare the Sterling AT51 to the Rode NT-1-A for me, by looking at their specs? I won't know what it all means but you're good at explaining the points that matter. I guess my biggest fear re. the Sterling is that it will have self-noise that will actually be audible - but that fear might be unfounded.
First off, I'm not even sure I would recommend the NT1A, even though I consider it a much greater microphone than what the price would suggest. The reason being, I'm almost sure you cannot add a 9volt battery to it.
Anyway, specs:
SPL (Sound pressure level. This is how much sound pressure it can take with imploding (plosives):
NT1: 137db (pretty damn good, to tell you the truth.
ST51: 134db: Almost as good. However, one has to recognise that for each 3 db, the power is doubled.
Anyway, both are good in this respect.
Selfnoise ("equivalent noise"):
NT1: 5db
ST51:22db.
22db is just "so-so". But then again, the NT1 has very, very little self noise. It's amazing.
Sensitivity:
I couldn't find numbers that I can directly compare. I'm not sure how the Sterling was measured (there are numerous measuring methods). One thing that worries me, though, is that both give out the mVs here, but on the ST51 it doesn't say anything about dBs. The reason I'd like to have dB's on the ST51s is that that is actually useful. The NT1 has one of -32dB, meaning that that is how low a sound can be when recorded at the exact same time as a louder sound. One could think of it as carrying a stick, 32dB tall, and using that to whack the sound with. LOL, I know - crap image.
Frequency range:
NT1: 20Hz-20kHz
ST51: 20Hz-18kHz
Again, just like with your headphones, this doesn't say it all. It matters how WELL they respond.
One of the reasons I like microphones to go above the human threshold for hearing according to the Nyquist theorem) is that the closer I come to the end of the equipment's limits, the more distortion an imprecision it will introduce. So even if one can't hear all the way up there, it can be useful.
This lead me to frequency response and polar patterns. For the life of me, I cannot find either on the St51 mic. If you can help me, I will do a direct comparison.
In the meantime, click here:
http://rode.com.au/microphone.php?product=NT1-A
Then click "images", then "frequency response". You will notice that it's really really flat (You want something that resembles a flat-liner the most).
The polar pattern shows how a microphone differs in sound, depending where it comes from in relation to the microphone and at different frequencies. But without the same from the ST51 I cannot make a direct comparison. Except t say that they're both cardioids (they are slightly heart shaped in the way they "catch" the sound).
Anyway, yes, I have no doubt that the NT1 is a better microphone. However, I don't necessarily think it's worth it. Both are (from specs, mind you) good budget microphones, and I'm sure both will be great for what you intend to use them for.
And here comes the headphones again:
As for the headphones, I'm in a pickle. I love music and could really stand a good pair just to listen to music with in general, so I *could* convince myself to upgrade (which would mean sending the others back since they're already on the way - ugh!) but on the other hand is it *really* worth it?! .
I have to say this: Although I have both a pair of in-ears (ER·4s with custom moulds) and a pair of Grado PS-1, I keep returning to the HD25-1s.
However, since the HD25-1s are so "monitor-like" some people don't like them for Hi-Fi (they prefer headphones that colour the sound, making it "softer"). The thing is, they're really revealing, and not in the Head-fi'er sense, but in the monitor sense. Personally, I like that, but I have to say that it's quite possible I'm way too influenced by my background. I want _clean_ and nothing else matters.
Personally, yes, it _really_ matters.
This is nothing I'll be taking so seriously that I'll be spending hours upon hours, day after day and will be so immersed in it that putting them around my neck will be that big of a deal. I can't imagine it would be but then I haven't begun yet so I don't know.
To me it matters. Because when it acts like a well designed tool, there's that thing less to focus on.
I just find it hard to believe life could suddenly become that difficult and unpleasant because of having to do that little extra thing.
Well, it certainly depends how you work (or play, in this case). I like being able to move freely.
Are both the cheaper and the more expensive ones considered noise blockers? What's the difference between "noise blockers" and "isolating"/"ambient noise"?
Well, "ambient noise" is "just" the noise that goes in through the headphone shells. Suffice to say, that with open headphones, you get all and every ambient noise.
The two headphones are both passive isolation closed headphones:
They're both closed, but the "passive isolation" mostly come from the fact that they're a tight fit, thus closing the gap so it's more isolated than simply have closed back on the individual cans.
Never heard the term "noise blockers", but I sometimes use mine without anything playing in them, simply to cut down the ambient noise.
And I thought the ones that go over the ears as opposed to right on the ears were supposed to be better for these purposes or more comfortable or something positive - according to others' advice/suggestions on this forum.
Yes, I hear that often too. I tend to disagree, but it depends what you will be using it for, how you will be using them, and of course where (somewhere really warm, for instance, huge headphones are a pain). The thing is, when most people talk about circumaurals being more comfortable, they think of headphones that put no pressure on you while you sit and listen. Very few would say they're swell having around your neck.
So far the only real concern i have is whether the ones I ordered will be too tight. That right there would be cause to return them but I might as well wait and see if that's the case.
Just make sure you can return them before opening them. Microphones and headphones are notoriously "unexchangeable" for "health reasons".
They have excellent reviews ALL OVER the internet though...way more than the more expensive ones (which obviously doesn't mean much if it's all about bottom-dollar shoppers/amateurs). I really like cnet so here's the cnet review:
http://reviews.cnet.com/headphones/s...tag=prod.txt.1
Hmm, yes. The thing is, I can well imagine some even better monitors than the HD25-1s. So if you stumbled upon my review, it wouldn't be all marketing fluff. There are many like me out there, many that are much better than me, have a better ear and so on, many that demand even more than I do, so yes, not all reviews are positive when it comes to the HD25-1s.
Anyway, I don't like cnet, as they often give rave reviews about something they haven't even heard. In the review you linked to, it seems like the bloke is in awe of just having a couple of headphones sent to him for the review. I sorely miss something detailed, specs, and certainly measurements.
I am very suspicious of reviews of audio equipment, simply because I have never encountered a business where so many snake oil vendors operate, where so many people are prepared to pay thousands and thousands of dollars on things they imagine (boutique speaker- and signal cables spring to mind).
Switching gears here, I have a question about using the laptop's internal mic with Garage Band and how if you record a second track you hear the loud noise from the laptop's motor or room noise or whatever and then that just gets louder with each track added (the first track you don't hear it). My question is this: if you turn down the track volume on the first track while recording the second track so that during the second track you won't end up also recording the noise from the first track compounded by the noise in the second track, how are you supposed to -- for example -- sing along with yourself in the first track (e.g. if you're doing a round with yourself or singing along in harmony)?
I'm not that familiar with garageband – I don't even have it installed, to be honest. But you're using headphones, right?
Also, if, when you record the second track it records the first track from disk, there has to be a setting somewhere, but I'm not really a garageband afficionado, but it SHOULD be there somewhere.
Because if you can't hear yourself singing in the first track cause you've turned down the track volume, you may jump in to sing your part in the second track at the wrong time (even if you have the little waves to look at, it doesn't really help you get the timing right)?
Yes, you certainly don't want to rely on the waveform!
The motor hiss and so on - you know, a stand alone recorder would alleviate this
Seriously, though, look through all the settings, look at the menu, and see if you can click something that will allow you to listen to it, while it not being rerecorded. Again, I take it you're using some form of headphones, so the speakers won't fedback into the microphone? I cannot emphasize that enough.
You asked where we were from. I'm from Denmark, hence I sometimes hit the language barrier
I forgot to mention: You want to record in 24bits if at all possible, not 16bits The reason is that the noise floor (the last used "bit" will be so far down in db that when you lift the audio ("normalise" it), the noise floor will be lifted with it. But with 24 bits, it will STILL be so far down it's ridiculous (i.e. you can't hear it). That way you won't having to worry about "going over" (in digital recordings you can't go over -0db, but it will simply cut the audio).
Thank you!!!!
I'll write you under the table!
Haha, any time, but you will NEVER be able to write me under the table!