The Macross - Super Dimension Fortress Computer 1 (SDFC-1) [Has been Booted-up]

[jav6454]

Project under way, pictures are at Post #135 and on.

Hello, in the time I was gone, I decided to build a little project. I have saved a fair amount of money (this originally started as a two man build, but my mate backed out due to personal reasons) that I plan on spending.

I have gathered the following components which I will buy in the next month or so. In any case, I put it here since I expect the community to pitch in and help me out decide which parts will work together in perfect harmony, what parts will provide a boost and which parts are plain wrong.

Yes, I seriously plan to get the following. Also, I gave it a name that means something for me, Macross. It is the name of my favorite sci-fi ship when I was small. So, I intend this to live up to its name.

Now, on with the parts:

The Guts of the Macross

Mother board - ASUS P6X58D-E - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131614)
Comments - See post #140 for pictures
Price - $309.99

CPU - Intel Core i7-930 @ 2.80GHz - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115202)
Comment - See post #140 for pictures
Price - Bought!

Graphics Card - XFX Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition 2x in CrossFireX - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150442)
Comments - See post #140 for pictures
Price - Bought!

RAM Memory - Corsair Dominator 6GB (3x2GB) DDR3 1600 CL 7 - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145253)
Price - Bought!

RAM Fan - Corsair Dominator Fan - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181008&cm_re=corsair_fan-_-35-181-008-_-Product)
Comment - Obviously cooling down the RAM
Price - $32.99

Boot-up & Main Storage Drive - Intel SSD 80GB - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167016)
Comment - Bought!
Price - Bought!

The Extras & Niceties for Macross

CD / DVD Drive - Samsung Black 22x - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827151187)
Price - Bought!

General Storage Drive - 4x WD RE4 1 TB in RAID 1+0 - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136798)
Comment - Bought!
Price - Bought!

Power Unit - Corsair HX 1000W - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139007)
Comment - Bought! It's here. See Post #135 for pictures
Price - Bought!

Lighting - UV Cold Cathode Blue 12" #LIT-23 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2992/lit-23/12_Cold_Cathode_Kit_Dual_Ready_-_Ultra_Bright_UV.html?tl=g6c75s132)
Comments - I am getting UV reacting liquid cooling for the GPUs and maybe SouthBridge Chipset. This means some tubing and since tubing isn't fun without some modding, glow-in-the-dark material will make it great, UV lighting will make this mod look better.
Price - $8.99

Cooling for Macross

Thermal Compound - Arctic Silver AA-1.75G - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100014)
Price - $4.99

Case Fan - Yate Loon 140mm x 25mm D14SM-12 #FAN-456 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7596/fan-456/Yate_Loon_140mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_Medium_Speed_D14SM-12.html?tl=g36c15s775)
Comments - These fans are going to replace the stock Corsiar fans that come with the 800D. Reviews all around the Internet have it that the Corsair fans are not strong enough. These Yate Loon's have respectable air flow at low noise levels.
Price - $19.98 ($9.99 each x 2)

Case Fan - Scythe S-Flex SFF21G 120mm x 25mm - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185065)
Comments - This fan is directly going to provide air to the two 3.5" Internal Slots
Price - $14.99

Case Fan - Yate Loon - D12SH-124UB 120mm #FAN-347 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6177/fan-347/Yate_Loon_120mm_x_25mm_UV_Reactive_LED_Fan_-_UV_Blue_D12SH-124UB.html?tl=g36c331s521)
Comment - I'll get 6 of these if I choose the Corsair Case. Since they are UV Blue, everything inside will look glow-in-dark style. Also, the 6 of these will provide Push-N-Pull action on the radiator exerting even more cooling power.
Price - $53.94 ($8.99 each x 6)

Fan Controller - NZXT Sentry 2, 5.25" 5 Channel (Fans) #BUS-204 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9543/bus-204/NZXT_Sentry_2_525_Fan_Controller_Touch_Display_Temperature_Monitor_-_Black.html?tl=g47c17s286)
Comment - Because I have decided to use a Push-N-Pull solution for my radiator, I think it's best to control the fan speeds of those 6 fans. That way, when I know I'm going to do something heavy, I can turn them up before hand and turn them down when I'm done.
Price - $79.90 ($39.95 each x 2)

Liquid Cooling Coolant - Feser One Non Conductive UV Reactive #EX-LIQ-75 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6996/ex-liq-75/Feser_One_Non_Conductive_Cooling_Fluid_-_1000_ml_-_UV_Blue_F1-0001.html?tl=g30c103s184#blank)
Comments - As mentioned before, a UV reactant blue coolant is outmost important in this mod. I have read good reviews on this one
Price - $19.95

Liquid Cooling Pump & Reservoir - XSPC Reservoir Pump Combo #EX-RES-130 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6473/ex-res-130/XSPC_Bay_Reservoir_Pump_Combo.html?tl=g30c107s153#blank)
Comment - Obviously, it's a bit costly to buy this, but I get a 2-in-1 deal.
Price - $62.99

Liquid Cooling Radiator - Black Ice GT 360 Black #EX-RAD-88 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2163/ex-rad-45/Black_Ice_Xtreme_III_Radiator_w_Customizable_Fittings_-_Black.html?tl=g30c95s161)
Comments - This triple 120mm fan radiator will be placed on the top part of the Corsair case. The function for this radiator is to cool down the GPUs in the ATI cards and if need be, the South-bridge.
Price - $59.95

Liquid Cooling GPU - EK Radeon HD 5850 Liquid Cooling Block #EX-BLC-687 - Click Me (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9902/ex-blc-687/EK_Radeon_HD_5850_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acrylic_EK-FC5850_.html?tl=g30c309s1050)
Comments - Boy, this one is sure expensive.
Price - $199.90 ($99.95 each x 2)

Liquid Cooling Chipset - N/A - N/A
Comments - I need to find a chipset block for the new mobo.
Price - $N/A

Liquid Cooling CPU - Corsair H50 - Click Me (http://www.frys.com/product/6007318?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)
Comment - I.
Price - Bought!

The Haul of the Macross

Case - Corsair Obsidian - Click Me (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139001&Tpk=corsair%20obsidian#spec)
Comment - See post #140 for pictures
Price - Bought!

Note - Parts are from Newegg.com and cooling is from Fry's and FrozenCPU.com

Conclusion
After much debate, these are final parts going into Macross. Any text turned blue means the part/piece is on it's way to me.

Anything with Blue title (and "Bought!" in it's price) color means the hardware has been bought. Anything in Orange title is whatever hardware part is next to be bought.

[No1451]

Since you have a bit of lee-way in the price...might I suggest cutting back on the cpu, running a 950 instead, saving $430.

Then take these savings, watercool it and then overclock the hell out of it. With a decent bit of watercooling I'm sure you could hit 4.2Ghz with a fair degree of ease(my 920C0 can hit 4.0Ghz without a hitch).

[CylonGlitch]

There is one thing that stands out that may be missing here. Cooling. You seem to be relying on the case fans to cool the internals; you're going to need more then that to keep that beast cool. The airflow from the default case fans typically sucks. Look at big 150mm fans, make sure the case can support them. Run them at 1/2 speed to keep the sound down. . . . because this little piggie is going to scream.

The memory looks like overkill; I think that Windows 7 is OK with it but 12MB is an odd number for computers. Powers of 2 is often preferable. I would either go with 8 and add 8 more later, or just get 16 now. But the MB supports it, and I doubt you'll see any difference.

Look OK to me, for the most part. Just be careful of the cooling.

BTW Digital Logic is one hell of an easy class.

[No1451]

The memory looks like overkill; I think that Windows 7 is OK with it but 12MB is an odd number for computers. Powers of 2 is often preferable. I would either go with 8 and add 8 more later, or just get 16 now. But the MB supports it, and I doubt you'll see any difference.

i7 uses triple channel so you see: 3/6/12 as your RAM configurations. As to the cooling, the HAF is an enthusiast case and the airflow is actually quite good.

[jav6454]

i7 uses triple channel so you see: 3/6/12 as your RAM configurations. As to the cooling, the HAF is an enthusiast case and the airflow is actually quite good.

This, I was going to explain why the 12GB of RAM, but I think this user beat me to the punch. In any case, 12GB should be enough for some time (3 years?) before I decide to pull the trigger and get 24GB. I mean, Bloomfield CPUs are going to get only better and better and better.

[CylonGlitch]

i7 uses triple channel so you see: 3/6/12 as your RAM configurations. As to the cooling, the HAF is an enthusiast case and the airflow is actually quite good.

I have been out of the PC industry too long. :D I think that might be a good thing though.

[No1451]

This, I was going to explain why the 12GB of RAM, but I think this user beat me to the punch. In any case, 12GB should be enough for some time (3 years?) before I decide to pull the trigger and get 24GB. I mean, Bloomfield CPUs are going to get only better and better and better.

It still remains to be seen what will happen with 1156 so who knows? Also, if I can't convince you of watercooling(might be safest, it's ADDICTIVE) then a better cooler should be on the list as well.

I would suggest the TRUE, OCZ Vendetta 2, Coolermaster Hyper 212 or the Prolimatech Megahalems....unfortunately Newegg only seems to be stocking incredibly BAD air coolers at the moment. And do please keep in mind: i7 is a FURNACE, my 920@stock can manage to hit 50+ under load, and that is under water(triple rad dedicated to the CPU).

[jav6454]

It still remains to be seen what will happen with 1156 so who knows? Also, if I can't convince you of watercooling(might be safest, it's ADDICTIVE) then a better cooler should be on the list as well.

I would suggest the TRUE, OCZ Vendetta 2, Coolermaster Hyper 212 or the Prolimatech Megahalems....unfortunately Newegg only seems to be stocking incredibly BAD air coolers at the moment. And do please keep in mind: i7 is a FURNACE, my 920@stock can manage to hit 50+ under load, and that is under water(triple rad dedicated to the CPU).

Yes I was thinking of water cooling. However, I know squat about it. Literally, I don't even know what kind of liquid it uses.

[No1451]

Yes I was thinking of water cooling. However, I know squat about it. Literally, I don't even know what kind of liquid it uses.

Water:p. Usually treated with some form of algaecide, usually a copper/silver based additive, or in some case specially treated tubing, or a 99.99% silver insert to keep growth away.

Either way you go, there is are a LOT of better cooler than the Zalman for around the same price-point, no point going small when you can go big;)

[jav6454]

Water:p. Usually treated with some form of algaecide, usually a copper/silver based additive, or in some case specially treated tubing, or a 99.99% silver insert to keep growth away.

Either way you go, there is are a LOT of better cooler than the Zalman for around the same price-point, no point going small when you can go big;)

I see. Can you point me in the right direction?

[No1451]

I see. Can you point me in the right direction?

On a better heatsink or watercooling? NCIXUS.com should have a number of good coolers available, if watercooling is your thing, drop by xtremesystems.org, there are some great guides and product reviews on the forums.

[jav6454]

Ok, I am buying 3 of the following and using them in 3-way SLI: 275 GTX SuperClocked (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130478)

What is the recommended PSU (Power Supply Unit) Wattage I should get? I am getting 850W because all 3 cards draw a maximum of 660W so that leaves me with 190W left. I don't know if 190W is enough for the rest of the Beast.

[ntrigue]

Don't buy the Intel SSD from NewEgg...

[Zombie Acorn]

Most of the parts you are buying are going to be halved in price if not more by next year. Keep that in mind.

[jav6454]

I also found this new cooling unit. I am going to have to go with Liquid Cooling, I sense too much power and heat may damage and feel liquid is the best way to get rid of heat.

SwiftTech H20-220 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108105)

Thoughts on that?

Also, we are not buying these now. We are waiting on USB 3.0 and GTX 300s to be released before making the plunge. We are just making a list of possible components.

[jav6454]

Little update. I am no longer buying 3 GTXs simply because I realized my PSU can hold only 4 PCIs power connections, meaning, I'd be leaving out some other stuff just for an extra graphics boost that will do squat. So, I keep the same PSU, but loose the third GTX.

[jb60606]

I'd dump the Intel SSD for a couple HDD in RAID 0, until SSDs drop in price. Otherwise, get the Corsair 128GB "Extreme Series" Indilinx SSD for nearly half the price.

[Ttownbeast]

I went a different route, my entire case is refrigerated it uses the fans but is supplemented with a 12 volt system from a cigar lighter powered beer cooler the flow of cold air from the device is directed at the processor mainly but it does circulate throughout the mod keeping everything else cooler as well

[jav6454]

I went a different route, my entire case is refrigerated it uses the fans but is supplemented with a 12 volt system from a cigar lighter powered beer cooler the flow of cold air from the device is directed at the processor mainly but it does circulate throughout the mod keeping everything else cooler as well

I think refrigerated seems a bit too much:D:D:D But, I'd love to see how that works.

Note - In other news relating to my Beast, I am thinking of swapping out the EVGA E760 for the E758. It's ~$180 cheaper and in ATX form instead of E-ATX.

Also, dropped amount of WD drives from 4 to 2. Seeing as 640GB will be enough for quite a time. Yes, it will be in RAID.

[jav6454]

List re-updated to reflect changes to DVD storage and possible case change due to the fact that the Antec case brings a 750W PSU already, hence, I'd pay less.

[Ttownbeast]

I think refrigerated seems a bit too much:D:D:D But, I'd love to see how that works.

Note - In other news relating to my Beast, I am thinking of swapping out the EVGA E760 for the E758. It's ~$180 cheaper and in ATX form instead of E-ATX.

Also, dropped amount of WD drives from 4 to 2. Seeing as 640GB will be enough for quite a time. Yes, it will be in RAID.
This is a low tech reefer solution I rigged up cheap it does cool the new case better enabling me to run the CPU at 1.8 rather than the 1.6 a 15 degree drop in temp with it in the new case (comparing with or without just in the new case) the difference from the old case is definitely a plus. Overall it keeps the case cooler than room temp by about 10 degrees (the beer cooler I cannibalized it from was rated for 40 below room temp--I did not expect that much but I expected some) just the case alone it nearly matched room temp (still a little higher). Before with the old case it could get as hot as 25 degrees above room temp inside so the combined cooling and larger case has helped significantly. I posted the project here over a month ago:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=766324&page=2

[jav6454]

Nice. Very genius way of dealing with heat.

[No1451]

Just a note, that self-contained water unit, while decent will likely not keep up with i7.

If water is a serious consideration, do it right and do it custom. If not doing water, please still dump that terrible air cooler, every review I've seen it in it pulls up the rear:(

[jav6454]

Just a note, that self-contained water unit, while decent will likely not keep up with i7.

If water is a serious consideration, do it right and do it custom. If not doing water, please still dump that terrible air cooler, every review I've seen it in it pulls up the rear:(

Thanks for that. Suggestions? I keep looking at NewEgg, but they seem to have few Water Cooling Units.

[XNine]

Ok.... why?

Look, having 3 graphics cards is a waste of money. Buy one. The new Radeon 5800 line is not only cheaper, but more effective than 3 of those GTX cards. Cooler too and less of a pain in the ass.

Why are you pumping so much money into the system? Seriously, it's effing ridiculous. Antec 1200 is a nice case, but there's better to be had. Specifically any of the Cooler Master Full towers. The Cosmos is phenomenal, superior to the Antec.

Sure, buy an i7. It's so expensive you could buy 4.5 of the highest end AMD CPU's for the cost of the highest end i7 and I guarentee you woun't be using the power of the i7.

SSD is a waste right now. It's too expensive and frankly a RAID will be better cost wise. Newegg has 640 GB WD's for around 64 bucks a piece.

Water cooling's great also, but only if you know what you're doing.

I, unlike others have had no problems with my Zalman coolers. All copper construction ftw.

BTW, nice choice of a name. Macross FTW.

[Ttownbeast]

Nice. Very genius way of dealing with heat.

More cheap than genius (but it does the trick) the rig cost me 12 bucks for a used cooler. For about 100 I could have rigged up copper tubing a small car heater core, a small water pump, a fan, the existing heat sink and some brass bushings as dielectric insulators between the copper tubing and aluminum on the cpu's sink and done liquid cooling (the Idea here is moving the heat away as quickly as possible of course it's probably not as efficient as a block but I'd bet it would be efficient enough) using some of my handyman skills, but I'm happy with the results I've gotten going this route.

[Counterfit]

BTW, nice choice of a name. Macross FTW.

The thread title had me expecting an F-14 with arms and legs. :mad:

[jav6454]

Ok.... why?

Look, having 3 graphics cards is a waste of money. Buy one. The new Radeon 5800 line is not only cheaper, but more effective than 3 of those GTX cards. Cooler too and less of a pain in the ass.

Why are you pumping so much money into the system? Seriously, it's effing ridiculous. Antec 1200 is a nice case, but there's better to be had. Specifically any of the Cooler Master Full towers. The Cosmos is phenomenal, superior to the Antec.

Sure, buy an i7. It's so expensive you could buy 4.5 of the highest end AMD CPU's for the cost of the highest end i7 and I guarentee you woun't be using the power of the i7.

SSD is a waste right now. It's too expensive and frankly a RAID will be better cost wise. Newegg has 640 GB WD's for around 64 bucks a piece.

Water cooling's great also, but only if you know what you're doing.

I, unlike others have had no problems with my Zalman coolers. All copper construction ftw.

BTW, nice choice of a name. Macross FTW.

Yes, I am no longer buying the 3 graphics, I went down to 2. Also, I have dealt with tech ever since I was 8 years old and have noticed a very common and straight forward trend. If you are cheap with technology, it will very soon come back and bite you (where ever, but I like to say in the a$s). So, I am going with the hefty price tag to get a decent rig, that is very upgradeable (1136 socket is very new and Intel has vowed to use it in future Core i9 and Core i7 CPUs) and respectable and won't cost me later.

As for the SSD v RAID. I like stability and reliability. In terms of reliability the SSD is far more reliable than any HDD RAID 0 set up. Why? Simply because of the mechanical fault. A drive in RAID 0 fails, the whole thing is lost. And SSD works faster and far more reliable. Also, it's a boot-up drive. If I need greater speed, get an extra SSD and put that in RAID 0 [still more reliable than HDD RAID 0].

I've thought of 5870, but, it's relatively new and I want to see how well in performs thus far (more reviews). I have been an nVidia buyer and user for all my life and thus far have not been disappointed by the GeForce brand. So, I am eyeing that 5870, but I want to see how well it stacks. (I already saw benchmarks and it is just a notch/tad under the GeForce 295 GTX)

Thanks for the naming compliment.

More cheap than genius (but it does the trick) the rig cost me 12 bucks for a used cooler. For about 100 I could have rigged up copper tubing a small car heater core, a small water pump, a fan, the existing heat sink and some brass bushings as dielectric insulators between the copper tubing and aluminum on the cpu's sink and done liquid cooling (the Idea here is moving the heat away as quickly as possible of course it's probably not as efficient as a block but I'd bet it would be efficient enough) using some of my handyman skills, but I'm happy with the results I've gotten going this route.

Obviously :D. I bet few people can say, I got refrigerated air flow :) BTW, it would have been interesting to see the results of that copper tubbing and brushing work.

The thread title had me expecting an F-14 with arms and legs.
I can wish can I? ;)

[Ttownbeast]

Obviously :D. I bet few people can say, I got refrigerated air flow :) BTW, it would have been interesting to see the results of that copper tubbing and brushing work.
Maybe some day when I install new guts (it won't be a G4 at that point though)

[jav6454]

Maybe some day when I install new guts (it won't be a G4 at that point though)

I don't know yet if I should. But I am also planning to put in OS X (hacked obviously) in there. Imagine all those cores from the GTX's crunching under the power of Grand Central. I feel Windows will be to idiotic since it has poor management in everything. Of course I'd use Boot Camp to play the games I originally intend.

[Eidorian]

I'd look at 5850 now.

No love for the K7B (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112154)?

[jav6454]

I'd look at 5850 now.

No love for the K7B (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112154)?

I don't like the boxxy state of the KB7. But I have been looking at the 5850's, I am still wow'd at the 1400 cores :eek:.

[jav6454]

I little laughable information. nVidia's SLI site says that a good source (2-way SLI with GTX 275's) is a Corsair 1000W PSU that costs $200.

Ironically, if I go to Corsair's site and do the "Choose the right PSU" and out in my specifications, I get the exact same 1000W PSU.

The irony is I know a 850W PSU will do more than fine and is more than enough.

[jav6454]

Just ditched the EVGA E760 motherboard.

[No1451]

Thanks for that. Suggestions? I keep looking at NewEgg, but they seem to have few Water Cooling Units.

Custom is the only way to go, no prebuilt will ever match what you can put together yourself. But really, some air cooling is getting VERY close to water now, so my #1 recommendation is to just pick up one of those 3 aircoolers I suggested earlier(they get rave reviews).

As for the nVidia vs ATI, the 5800 line is kind of blowing the 275's out of the water atm:

World at War, Winner ATI (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/23415-sapphire-radeon-hd-5870-1gb-gddr5-review-9.html)
Juarez, Winner ATI (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/23415-sapphire-radeon-hd-5870-1gb-gddr5-review-10.html)
Crysis Warhead, Winner ATI (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/23415-sapphire-radeon-hd-5870-1gb-gddr5-review-12.html)
Hawx, Winner ATI (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/23415-sapphire-radeon-hd-5870-1gb-gddr5-review-19.html)

Considering that in most instances the price difference is ~$90 I would wholeheartedly recommend the 5870. Take a look at the stats for that review I just linked, they show the average AND minimum frame data, which is a lot more telling than merely an average(without a SD it's kind of useless).

[Tower-Union]

If your set on water cooling then by all means, but as someone who's done this before, let me warn you, there is a learning curve. An expensive one at that, mistakes (leaks) aren't cheap in this business. I would consider looking at a Behemoth of an air cooler, Thermalright makes some interesting stuff, I'll post back with a little more research.

[No1451]

Water is fun, expensive and sometimes a little complicated. Air is simple, cheap and imo, 70% of the effectiveness of water.

[jav6454]

Custom is the only way to go, no prebuilt will ever match what you can put together yourself. But really, some air cooling is getting VERY close to water now, so my #1 recommendation is to just pick up one of those 3 aircoolers I suggested earlier(they get rave reviews).

As for the nVidia vs ATI, the 5800 line is kind of blowing the 275's out of the water atm:

.... snips ...

Considering that in most instances the price difference is ~$90 I would wholeheartedly recommend the 5870. Take a look at the stats for that review I just linked, they show the average AND minimum frame data, which is a lot more telling than merely an average(without a SD it's kind of useless).

Thanks for that. Those results have made me jump to considering the HD 5870s.

If your set on water cooling then by all means, but as someone who's done this before, let me warn you, there is a learning curve. An expensive one at that, mistakes (leaks) aren't cheap in this business. I would consider looking at a Behemoth of an air cooler, Thermalright makes some interesting stuff, I'll post back with a little more research.

I was reading your input, but if you feel you need more time, be my guest. I know the tiniest mistake in a liquid cooling system spells disaster for the parts.

Water is fun, expensive and sometimes a little complicated. Air is simple, cheap and imo, 70% of the effectiveness of water.

I know. I have been up to this point Air Cooler, but I feel the current set-up will be a bit beyond air and liquid should be considered.

[No1451]

Thanks for that. Those results have made me jump to considering the HD 5870s.

Np:). And keep in mind these drivers are not particularly mature so it can be fairly well assumed that performance will only get better. If you choose to stick with nVidia you might want to wait and see what they bring to the table, the new gen of hardware should be dropping soon which will a) give you more options, b) devalue current hardware.

[jav6454]

Np:). And keep in mind these drivers are not particularly mature so it can be fairly well assumed that performance will only get better. If you choose to stick with nVidia you might want to wait and see what they bring to the table, the new gen of hardware should be dropping soon which will a) give you more options, b) devalue current hardware.

I was surprised at how a single HD 5870 stacked up against 2x4870s and a dual GPU GTX 295. However, I know Nvidia is supposed to come out with their Fermi architecture which supposedly a single GPU of that destroys anything made of ATI and even 2-way SLI GTX 295s.

[jav6454]

Alright then, the parts list has been upgrade to show the ATI Radeon HD 5850 GPU. I plan to buy 2 of those bad boys to put in CrossFireX. Cost is the same as the GTX 275s, but the Radeons are newer, have more cores (1400 vs 240) and are DirectX 11 compatible.

[Tower-Union]

Well, if your set on going water cooling, I'd suggest looking at Swiftech (http://www.swiftnets.com/)


Also, these are INVALUBLE!

http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/full-band-hose-clamp-309796.jpg

[No1451]

Alright then, the parts list has been upgrade to show the ATI Radeon HD 5850 GPU. I plan to buy 2 of those bad boys to put in CrossFireX. Cost is the same as the GTX 275s, but the Radeons are newer, have more cores (1400 vs 240) and are DirectX 11 compatible.

Excellent choice imo, this machine is going to BLAZE.

[jav6454]

Well, if your set on going water cooling, I'd suggest looking at Swiftech (http://www.swiftnets.com/)


Also, these are INVALUBLE!

http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/full-band-hose-clamp-309796.jpg

Thanks, I've been lurking that site for a while now.

Excellent choice imo, this machine is going to BLAZE.

Lol, that's my hopes.

[jav6454]

The Swifttech H20-220 is still being considered. I saw it in the link Tower-Union gave me. Thus far, it looks like a solid buy (according to NewEgg's rating system). However, I look over in NewEgg Comments and lots and lots of people are having leaks and bad experiences; however, they find it that quick fixes work and end up giving it 4 or 5 stars.

I honestly, think I should rather just buy each thing separately.

[Eidorian]

It looks a lot beter now. I don't have much advice to give on water cooling.

[No1451]

The Swifttech H20-220 is still being considered. I saw it in the link Tower-Union gave me. Thus far, it looks like a solid buy (according to NewEgg's rating system). However, I look over in NewEgg Comments and lots and lots of people are having leaks and bad experiences; however, they find it that quick fixes work and end up giving it 4 or 5 stars.

I honestly, think I should rather just buy each thing separately.

Buying separately will cost more but it will be better performance.

I'd go with a Swifech 355(or 655) pump, Swiftech Apogee GTZ waterblock, almost any reservoir will do(Performance-pcs has a great selection), a pump top(so you can use any barbs on the pump) and a dual or triple rad.

Figure out how you want to set it up first and then you can decide WHAT to buy. But if you don't need it, air is easier and almost as good for performance.

[jav6454]

Buying separately will cost more but it will be better performance.

I'd go with a Swifech 355(or 655) pump, Swiftech Apogee GTZ waterblock, almost any reservoir will do(Performance-pcs has a great selection), a pump top(so you can use any barbs on the pump) and a dual or triple rad.

Figure out how you want to set it up first and then you can decide WHAT to buy. But if you don't need it, air is easier and almost as good for performance.

I'll go water if I end up choosing the Cool Master case. If I choose the Antec, I'll leave it at Air cooling. Although, honestly, the Cool Master looks awesome inside (well defined bays and divisions) while the Antec looks, well, a disaster zone (everything is hidden behind a cover).

[jav6454]

Just ditched the nVidia GTXs.... reason is, the current supplies of nVidia 200 GTX card series are going to be in supply constraint and the fact that AnandTech did the following testing: Click Me (http://www.anandtech.com/video/showdoc.aspx?i=3650).

That testing concludes that the ATI Radeon HD 5850 is as strong or in many cases much stronger than the nVidia GTX 285... and the ATI card becomes strong enough to rival or surpass the 2-way SLI GTX 285. That being said, I find no reason to buy a card that is less powerful and less capable than a newer generation ATI. Also, bear in mind new ATIs support DirectX 11, so I'd be getting a bit more performance.

[Eidorian]

The 5850 is the card to get. The 5870 doesn't really offer the performance gains for the price.

[Tower-Union]

You know you want to break down and buy one of these,

http://www.ttlevel10.com/

[jav6454]

You know you want to break down and buy one of these,

http://www.ttlevel10.com/

Looks nice and all, but how much is it going to cost me? My soul?:p:D:D:D Seriously, the case looks awesome although they have no price and no detailed pictures...

[Beric]

Good choice on the 920. 5850 seems to be an excellent card at this time, and you can go dual if you want. HAF 932 also a good choice; I have a 922 myself.

PSU: Buy a Corsair 750W without doubt (my rig has one, and it's great). Corsair is the best and most popular brand of PSU, with a great warranty, high efficiency, good cooling, excellent quality, etc. A Corsair 750W is as good as an 850W or 950W of other lesser brands.

[jav6454]

Good choice on the 920. 5850 seems to be an excellent card at this time, and you can go dual if you want. HAF 932 also a good choice; I have a 922 myself.

PSU: Buy a Corsair 750W without doubt (my rig has one, and it's great). Corsair is the best and most popular brand of PSU, with a great warranty, high efficiency, good cooling, excellent quality, etc. A Corsair 750W is as good as an 850W or 950W of other lesser brands.

I was thinking a 850W because of the more generous power offering just in case it is needed. I know 750W and even 700W is enough, but I don't want the PSU to start giving me problems when I load the components.

Because of internal aesthetics and organization so far the HAF 932 case was winning me, sad part is I want LED lighting like Antec offers.

[Beric]

I was thinking a 850W because of the more generous power offering just in case it is needed. I know 750W and even 700W is enough, but I don't want the PSU to start giving me problems when I load the components.

Because of internal aesthetics and organization so far the HAF 932 case was winning me, sad part is I want LED lighting like Antec offers.

Right, like I'm saying, a Corsair 750W PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006) is as good as an 850-950 of another lesser brand. It's hard to go wrong.

You can always add LED fans later if you want. And you should at least look at the HAF 922. It's practically as big as a 932.

[jav6454]

Right, like I'm saying, a Corsair 750W PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006) is as good as an 850-950 of another lesser brand. It's hard to go wrong.

You can always add LED fans later if you want. And you should at least look at the HAF 922. It's practically as big as a 932.

My current PSU is Corsair;) however, the current one is Modular... meaning a get a certain degree of control over cables....

As for the HAF 922 case. I looked at it. It looks nice, but it is a Mid-Tower, I'm looking Full-Tower, reason is, this way I have future upgradability and more space....

[apfhex]

I DO hope you're going to make an awesome case mod for it.

Or at least put a UN Spacy sticker on the side. :p

[No1451]

Right, like I'm saying, a Corsair 750W PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139006) is as good as an 850-950 of another lesser brand. It's hard to go wrong.

You can always add LED fans later if you want. And you should at least look at the HAF 922. It's practically as big as a 932.

There really aren't very many "lesser brands", Silverstone, Enermax, Corsair all share a few very good manufacturers, and off to the side you have others like PC P&C or Seasonic who also make excellent power supplies. My point being, unless you buy an "off" or no-name brand you will still be getting an excellent power supply.

@Jav: Have you considered the Corsair Obsidian? It's a little pricey but absolutely gorgeous and looks easy to work in.

[Beric]

My current PSU is Corsair;) however, the current one is Modular... meaning a get a certain degree of control over cables....

As for the HAF 922 case. I looked at it. It looks nice, but it is a Mid-Tower, I'm looking Full-Tower, reason is, this way I have future upgradability and more space....

Yep, but if you look at the dimensions of the 922, they're practically the same as the 932. ;)

[jav6454]

I DO hope you're going to make an awesome case mod for it.

Or at least put a UN Spacy sticker on the side. :p

I was already looking around for stickers (see attached)... blue LEDs... see attached. I was already planning on making the UN Spacy Inside right besides the Intel Inside. However, I don't know which logo to engrave or mod into the case.

Yep, but if you look at the dimensions of the 922, they're practically the same as the 932. ;)

Airflow is a bit more restricted with the HAF 922, since it's smaller, fans are smaller and the back part losses a small vent that allows for even greater air flow.

It is a great case, but I need a case that allows high air flow. The Antec 1200 has 5 side and 1 top fan and the HAF 932 has bigger side fans with vents (including a much bigger top fan).



@Jav: Have you considered the Corsair Obsidian? It's a little pricey but absolutely gorgeous and looks easy to work in.

"Dang!" is all I have to say....

[jav6454]

Just ditched the HAF 932 case... added the Corsair Obsidian.

[No1451]

Just ditched the HAF 932 case... added the Corsair Obsidian.

Heh, somehow I think me posting in this thread will end up with you spending more than you originally intended to:)

[jav6454]

Heh, somehow I think me posting in this thread will end up with you spending more than you originally intended to:)

Not at all. I am finishing saving up.... so if I see something better to spend, the better.

[dmr727]

Not at all. I am finishing saving up.... so if I see something better to spend, the better.

I expect a plethora of pics once you get this bad boy put together!

http://www.oldmovies.net.au/userimages/user1367_1160664128.jpg

[Ttownbeast]

I expect a plethora of pics once you get this bad boy put together!

http://www.oldmovies.net.au/userimages/user1367_1160664128.jpg
HAHAHAHA yeah, I want to see some pics too trying to visualize it hurts my brain

[jav6454]

I will. Just waiting on those Saphires, for me to finally lock in all settings.... I think I may end up buying the Corsair case... bit more expensive, but so worth it...

[jav6454]

Swapped the Corsair RAM I had for better one in terms of cooling [Corsair Dominator]. Also, it's a bit pricier, but I get a fan unit for RAM.

[No1451]

Swapped the Corsair RAM I had for better one in terms of cooling [Corsair Dominator]. Also, it's a bit pricier, but I get a fan unit for RAM.

Cool with my dominator ram has been, for me, a non-issue. Assuming decent airflow in the case you should be fine. What stuff did you go with? The all black or the red/black stuff?

[jav6454]

Cool with my dominator ram has been, for me, a non-issue. Assuming decent airflow in the case you should be fine. What stuff did you go with? The all black or the red/black stuff?

Blue/Black

[Eidorian]

I had to take a look at the the Corsair Obsidian because it sounded familiar. It looks exactly like the Antec P182/183. Why is the Obsidian so much better again?

It's light years ahead of the Antec 1200 though.

[No1451]

I had to take a look at the the Corsair Obsidian because it sounded familiar. It looks exactly like the Antec P182/183. Why is the Obsidian so much better again?
It's light years ahead of the Antec 1200 though.

http://www.antec.com/images/400/p182SE_open.jpghttp://nvision.pl/img/200906/Corsair_Obsidian_800D_02.jpg

Obviously different scales but the things to look at here are the small but significant differences.

1) Obsidian has a triple fan exhaust on the top which will blow tons of air
2) Raised off the floor with a dust filter under the PSU
3) Hotswap sata docks that are accesible from the outside
4) Cable-routing holes with rubber covers for the unused holes

All together those points would really sell this case to me over the Antec, I like Antec but I have built too many PCs to NOT appreciate the extra little features the case has, features that really SHOULD be stock in all production cases imo.

[jav6454]

And with the note from the above the Antec case is gone.... Macross' case is now the Corsair Obsidian.

BTW, I am going to add price tags to the stuff. Now, I will loom for deals everywhere (Fry's, Best Buy, anywhere).

[nick1516]

And with the note from the above the Antec case is gone.... Macross' case is now the Corsair Obsidian.

BTW, I am going to add price tags to the stuff. Now, I will loom for deals everywhere (Fry's, Best Buy, anywhere).

Yeah keep us posted, I'm interested to see how much this would cost.

[XNine]

You know you want to break down and buy one of these,

http://www.ttlevel10.com/

ho
ly
****!!!!!!

That's... sexy!

edit: BUT NOT $800+ sexy!!!!!!!! OMFG..... Wait...maybe it is... I'm so conflicted! I want one.

[jav6454]

ho
ly
****!!!!!!

That's... sexy!

edit: BUT NOT $800+ sexy!!!!!!!! OMFG..... Wait...maybe it is... I'm so conflicted! I want one.

My exact same reaction.

[jav6454]

By the way, took a second look at that Level 10 Case... disapoints in Real Life.

http://zip.4chan.org/g/src/1255901013527.jpg

[Andy348]

Great thread. I'm subscribed!

Good luck with the rest!

[Eidorian]

http://www.antec.com/images/400/p182SE_open.jpghttp://nvision.pl/img/200906/Corsair_Obsidian_800D_02.jpg

Obviously different scales but the things to look at here are the small but significant differences.

1) Obsidian has a triple fan exhaust on the top which will blow tons of air
2) Raised off the floor with a dust filter under the PSU
3) Hotswap sata docks that are accesible from the outside
4) Cable-routing holes with rubber covers for the unused holes

All together those points would really sell this case to me over the Antec, I like Antec but I have built too many PCs to NOT appreciate the extra little features the case has, features that really SHOULD be stock in all production cases imo.I'm glad someone stepped up for this. You've even sold me on the case. :p

[jav6454]

Well, I have some bad news... my Corolla 95 decided it was time for its repairs and thus the following happened... discovered this yesterday.

Alternator and voltage regulator decided not to play nice and hence were pumping 18V into my car's system, mind you a car's system works at max load when 14V are pumped and 12V is normal. So I had an overage. Such overage caused my AC compressor to be damaged.

So, I have 3 damaged parts, AC compressor, Alternator and Voltage Regulator. All of which some up to ~$360 in new/used parts without labor. And to top it all off the Radiator decided to start leaking (it already leaked but not as bad as recently). Such leakage causes me to every morning pour in a couple of bottles of water into the radiator to keep me going during the day....

So, I'm afraid my whole savings have been squashed... will post pics of damage...

[jav6454]

Pictures of damage.... the cost are in also...

Ok here there are. First of all they are in no order, but I will describe them. First one. All that orange spill you see is actually Coolant/Anti-Freeze that spilled from my radiator. Apparently the leak is big enough that it causes a mini eruption with in my engine. That part you see is the exhaust cover which used to be full metal color, now it's orange. Here:

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6323/img0009en.jpg

Second one. The top part of my radiator which shows signs of any liquid that was once in there is now gone. I wake up to this every morning now, but it used to be a little bit filled, now after the initial parts broke, I wake up to an empty radiator. I have to fill it as part of daily routine. Also, notice the orange color around the mouth. Here:

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2944/img0010w.jpg

Third One. What you see there is the bottom cover of the radiator. You can see the well defined water "cascades". Clearly leaks are all over. Here:

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1695/img0011dm.jpg

Fourth one. What you see is the markings my mechanic made. Those white marks are there to tell when were certain pieces changed. Also, that space there, its where the Washer fluid holder is supposed to be. Mind you it was taken out for easy access to the compressor which is on the bottom of the car:

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3070/img0012on.jpg

Fifth one. As mentioned earlier, the Alternator and Voltage Regulators went bad. As a result overage through out the electric system. Needless to say my compressor was damaged. So, they fixed it. Bad part was the electrical wiring was damaged too. So damaged, that my mechanic decided to throw a new line from the switch box directly to the main AC switch inside my vehicle (original line was fried). That brown cable you see there is that line. Also, I failed to mention not only did that was damaged, tail lights lines were burned, 3 fuses for lights were burned and back windshield heater was fried also. All those lines had to be repaired. Luckily, those were easy access lines and bulbs are cheap. However, the other wires for AC were not easy to reach and thus why we decided to throw an alternate line for those. Here:

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/7415/img0013us.jpg

End results so far have costed my $659.67 with labor. I still have to fix the radiator. So far, Macross is not looking good for another 4 months at least. If the radiotor costs me $300 or more, it's looking more like a 6 month delay on this build... dam it..:mad::mad::mad::mad:

[XNine]

The things I don't like about the Corsair case is not only it's massive size, but the simple fact that the hot-swap drives need screws to mount the drives in the sleds, and that there is ZERO cooling coming from the front of the case. It's all done from the bottom, which is quite stupid.

However, Antec still refuses to provide any tool-less cases or accessories for its cases. Currently I have an Antec 300 and wires are everywhere, thumbscrews galore, no tool-less drive bays, and since they've discontinued their P1xxx series, there's been NO hotswap HDD bays.

Unfortunately I'm going to have to learn how to actually build my own case if I'm ever going to be happy I think.

The closest that anyone has come is Cooler Master, but they can't seem to get all the features I want in one case, they always leave something out, put it in a lesser model and omit it from a higher end, etc.

[Eidorian]

The Antec P1xx line still seems to be going strong. I've seen the number of P180s available drop though in favor the new P182 or 183.

[No1451]

The things I don't like about the Corsair case is not only it's massive size, but the simple fact that the hot-swap drives need screws to mount the drives in the sleds, and that there is ZERO cooling coming from the front of the case. It's all done from the bottom, which is quite stupid.

However, Antec still refuses to provide any tool-less cases or accessories for its cases. Currently I have an Antec 300 and wires are everywhere, thumbscrews galore, no tool-less drive bays, and since they've discontinued their P1xxx series, there's been NO hotswap HDD bays.

Unfortunately I'm going to have to learn how to actually build my own case if I'm ever going to be happy I think.

The closest that anyone has come is Cooler Master, but they can't seem to get all the features I want in one case, they always leave something out, put it in a lesser model and omit it from a higher end, etc.

The Solo line was toolless, but by and large you just won't find much of it since lets be honest: if you are putting a PC together you have a screwdriver, it's mandatory.

[jav6454]

The Solo line was toolless, but by and large you just won't find much of it since lets be honest: if you are putting a PC together you have a screwdriver, it's mandatory.

At least not so much with the Corsair. It is screw less with respects to the 5" drives, the side and front panels.

You only need a screw driver to insert the hot swappable drives.


Obviously you always need a screw driver for the motherboard installation, but now, not as much:D

[Ttownbeast]

Sorry to hear about your ride man those unexpected things always tend to cut into the budget I had the same thing happen once over a three month period first the radiator sprung a leak then the alternator went tits up, followed by the water pump, then the clutch plate exploded--that's the way things go dude.

[jav6454]

Well, I have finalized the specs, but since the hold thing is on hold I think by the time I recover the $, it'll be time to re-choose new parts.

In any case, I have locked in the parts and the current parts listed are the ones that were going to be bought.

Also, the cost for my radiator will be $120 without labor. So, by my estimates the whole cost will be $200.

In any case, the hold will be for more or less 5 months.

[jav6454]

Ok, change in plans, I plan to build this against all odds. So, I have now come up with a better strategy that balances Macross and my other outstanding duties.

I plan to purchase by parts. In other words, purchasing parts per certain amount of time until I get them all together. This way, I'll spend only the $ I have and save the rest.

My plan starts with the stuff that has least chances of being updated and ending with those that if updated will bring more power to Macross.

For instance, I will buy the Liquid cooling units, fans and case first. The PSU and RAM will follow. After, I will concentrate on buying the Graphics ($550). Followed by the CPU and Motherboard. The last thing to be bought will be the SSD & HDDs; due to the fact that the more time the higher the storage capacity for less.

[No1451]

Ok, change in plans, I plan to build this against all odds. So, I have now come up with a better strategy that balances Macross and my other outstanding duties.

I plan to purchase by parts. In other words, purchasing parts per certain amount of time until I get them all together. This way, I'll spend only the $ I have and save the rest.

My plan starts with the stuff that has least chances of being updated and ending with those that if updated will bring more power to Macross.

For instance, I will buy the Liquid cooling units, fans and case first. The PSU and RAM will follow. After, I will concentrate on buying the Graphics ($550). Followed by the CPU and Motherboard. The last thing to be bought will be the SSD & HDDs; due to the fact that the more time the higher the storage capacity for less.

My recommendation, if you DO want to go water, buy it first as movement in the world of water is fairly slow and the parts last a LONG time(I haven't bought a radiator in over a year).

Everything else you should WAIT. Put the money into a savings where you can't touch it or won't be tempted, CPUs/GPUs/RAM changes far too fast(we haven't even seen nVidia's salvo!). The case is something else you can buy atm, as is the power supply simply because they really don't make great/fast strides or price adjustments in these markets.

Anyway, that's my $0.02, sorry to hear about the car:(


Edit: Read your first post, you are going to need VASTLY more radiator space than that wee little H50 provides, I would recommend in that price bracket to just go with air. This (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/23884-intel-core-i7-lga1366-cpu-cooler-roundup.html) is a great little breakdown of most of the good 1366 coolers and their caveats/recommending features.

[jav6454]

My recommendation, if you DO want to go water, buy it first as movement in the world of water is fairly slow and the parts last a LONG time(I haven't bought a radiator in over a year).

Everything else you should WAIT. Put the money into a savings where you can't touch it or won't be tempted, CPUs/GPUs/RAM changes far too fast(we haven't even seen nVidia's salvo!). The case is something else you can buy atm, as is the power supply simply because they really don't make great/fast strides or price adjustments in these markets.

Anyway, that's my $0.02, sorry to hear about the car:(


Edit: Read your first post, you are going to need VASTLY more radiator space than that wee little H50 provides, I would recommend in that price bracket to just go with air. This (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/23884-intel-core-i7-lga1366-cpu-cooler-roundup.html) is a great little breakdown of most of the good 1366 coolers and their caveats/recommending features.

Liked the link, and then read and saw the video for their review of the Corsair Obsidian case. That confirmed me that the Corsair case (although pricey) is well worth it.

Also I found this link: Click Me (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/news/cases-power-cooling/corsair-dips-water-hydro-h50/) Seems Corsair only states high-end Air Cooler. But still, the H50 does well according to many YouTube videos I've seen. Thing is, I don't want that big radiator on top of the i7. I want something cleaner and an Air Cooler is that, a big blob.

Edit - Forgot to mention car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to finally fix the radiator (I had the car parked for 3 days and had a friend car pool me). After all, that was the last part to be repaired.

[No1451]

Liked the link, and then read and saw the video for their review of the Corsair Obsidian case. That confirmed me that the Corsair case (although pricey) is well worth it.

Also I found this link: Click Me (http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/news/cases-power-cooling/corsair-dips-water-hydro-h50/) Seems Corsair only states high-end Air Cooler. But still, the H50 does well according to many YouTube videos I've seen. Thing is, I don't want that big radiator on top of the i7. I want something cleaner and an Air Cooler is that, a big blob.

Edit - Forgot to mention car is going to the mechanic tomorrow to finally fix the radiator (I had the car parked for 3 days and had a friend car pool me). After all, that was the last part to be repaired.

Hmm, I've looked at some of the numbers for this thing and I really think some of them looks very suspect, don't worry too much about it though, if it doesn't perform up to par, drop $40 on an additional rad and it will improve no doubt.

[mkrishnan]

I have nothing to add to this project other than the suggestion (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Super_Dimension_Fortress_Macross) that the name be changed to "Macross, the Super-Dimension Desktop Computer." :)

[XNine]

I have nothing to add to this project other than the suggestion (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Super_Dimension_Fortress_Macross) that the name be changed to "Macross, the Super-Dimension Desktop Computer." :)


This post is full of win! Chicks dig Super Dimension Fortresses.

In fact, my gaming tag that I've been using for 14 years (X9,X-Nine, or XNine) came from The X-9 Ghostfighter from Macross Plus. They only mention the full name once in the OAV, so not many people have ever caught it.

Water cooling has piqued my interest as of late. Murderbox uses water cooling exclusively and you can find their reservoirs here: http://www.murdermod.com/ Pretty spiffy if I do say so myself. I like their case, but again, no tool-less parts. Sorry, but anything that saves me time in putting a case together is favorable to me.

[jav6454]

This post is full of win! Chicks dig Super Dimension Fortresses.

In fact, my gaming tag that I've been using for 14 years (X9,X-Nine, or XNine) came from The X-9 Ghostfighter from Macross Plus. They only mention the full name once in the OAV, so not many people have ever caught it.

Water cooling has piqued my interest as of late. Murderbox uses water cooling exclusively and you can find their reservoirs here: http://www.murdermod.com/ Pretty spiffy if I do say so myself. I like their case, but again, no tool-less parts. Sorry, but anything that saves me time in putting a case together is favorable to me.

If I recall correctly the X-9 Ghostfighter was defeated by Guld in a suicidal move using his YF-21 (mental control driven). Also, the Ghost was controlled by AI Sharon Apple (see what I did there?) who also takes over the SDF-1 Macross. By the way, I did caught the name ;)

ain any case I looked into that link and saw some quite pricey stuff. For example, that murderMOD case costs an astonishng $990.

[jav6454]

Small update. I am doing some research on modding the internals. Adding some UV lights and UV reactive cooling for the chipset (SouthBridge) and the GPUs.

I plan to use that triple radiator space on the 800D, and the newly chosen UV fans will help a lot in that.

More to come.

[jav6454]

Liquid cooling has been updated to include a lot of new information and parts. Many parts are pricey, but within range if I buy as previously stated (by stages).

This is done to obtain a more stable build in temperature and at the same time build an internal mod that is worthy of the name Macross.

The mod is a UV reactive coolant with 1/4" transparent tubing (I asusme 1/4" is small and 1/2" is bigger) feeding north/south chipset block and the GPU blocks. This should keep everything relatively cool.

I don't worry about the CPU, since I want that to be independent of the whole thing. (No thermal contamination.)

[Ttownbeast]

Are you going with UV LEDs or conventional gas tubes and ballasts? Dont make the mistake i did when hooking up to the power supply if using LEDs, use the 5 volt output rather than the 12v, I burned out 3 LEDs and resistors before I realized what the hell I did while wiring up the lights if you're using an old fashioned tube and ballast it shouldn't be an issue wiring it up to the 12v lead off the power supply though, but I recommend going the LED route to save power for the rest of the machine since a tube draws a bit more current.

[jav6454]

^

It's a tube (Cold Cathode). I thought of LEDs, but not a single LED strip had UV lighting. If power becomes a problem, I'll just upgrade to 1000 W (I don't want to)

[jav6454]

Due to duties to my IP (intelectual property) I have to allocate some funds of this project to my IP protection. Some delay, but still everything is underway.

[No1451]

Liquid cooling has been updated to include a lot of new information and parts. Many parts are pricey, but within range if I buy as previously stated (by stages).

This is done to obtain a more stable build in temperature and at the same time build an internal mod that is worthy of the name Macross.

The mod is a UV reactive coolant with 1/4" transparent tubing (I asusme 1/4" is small and 1/2" is bigger) feeding north/south chipset block and the GPU blocks. This should keep everything relatively cool.

I don't worry about the CPU, since I want that to be independent of the whole thing. (No thermal contamination.)

UV Reactive coolant is fairly bad, both in terms of the colour(often not as advertised) and it can break down and gunk up blocks(especially an impingement block like the Swiftech and a few others). For tubing I recommend something a bit bigger, not for performance just for looks, 1/4 tends to look really tiny and cheap and the kinds available are not particularly good(nobody really uses 1/4" tubing anymore. If you want low-impact tubing get a look at 3/8-1/2 or 5/8(3/8 is the inner diameter and 1/2 is the outer size).

Feser makes some tubing in these sizes, very good bend radius and easy to work with, as does Primochill(these tubes actually have built in anti-microbial agents to protect your loop). Failing that Tygon 3400 is good stuff, but quite a bit more expensive than is strictly necessary.


Now, onto a few more notes:

1) The radiator you chose is very good, but it requires very high speed/high static pressure fans. The fans you chose are not ideal for this.
2) Toss the CPU cooler and just build 1 loop with your GPUs/CPU, with the proper fans the rad you chose should be able to handle it no problem.

[jav6454]

UV Reactive coolant is fairly bad, both in terms of the colour(often not as advertised) and it can break down and gunk up blocks(especially an impingement block like the Swiftech and a few others). For tubing I recommend something a bit bigger, not for performance just for looks, 1/4 tends to look really tiny and cheap and the kinds available are not particularly good(nobody really uses 1/4" tubing anymore. If you want low-impact tubing get a look at 3/8-1/2 or 5/8(3/8 is the inner diameter and 1/2 is the outer size).

Feser makes some tubing in these sizes, very good bend radius and easy to work with, as does Primochill(these tubes actually have built in anti-microbial agents to protect your loop). Failing that Tygon 3400 is good stuff, but quite a bit more expensive than is strictly necessary.


Now, onto a few more notes:

1) The radiator you chose is very good, but it requires very high speed/high static pressure fans. The fans you chose are not ideal for this.
2) Toss the CPU cooler and just build 1 loop with your GPUs/CPU, with the proper fans the rad you chose should be able to handle it no problem.

Didn't know that about UV coolants. Thanks, then I'll just change to regular dyed coolant to prevent gunk. Also, on the tubing, I work in the Chemistry department's Stockroom, so I'll be checking later on the types of cooling. I know 1/4" is small, but don't know how small. However, but by the sound of you post it seems its best to go with either 1/2" or 5/8".

Also, in respect of the fans, care to point me in the right direction? Also, I wish to keep 2 loops, not because I don't think the radiator won't handle, it's because I want optimal performance from the CPU. So if it shares the loop, some heat from the other blocks will make the heat dissipation lesser than what I want. Also, if anything happens (like a fail in the loops) I have one working. Say the second loop with GPUs and chipset fails, cooling keeps on with the CPU and vice-versa if the opposite happen.

[No1451]

Didn't know that about UV coolants. Thanks, then I'll just change to regular dyed coolant to prevent gunk. Also, on the tubing, I work in the Chemistry department's Stockroom, so I'll be checking later on the types of cooling. I know 1/4" is small, but don't know how small. However, but by the sound of you post it seems its best to go with either 1/2" or 5/8".

Also, in respect of the fans, care to point me in the right direction? Also, I wish to keep 2 loops, not because I don't think the radiator won't handle, it's because I want optimal performance from the CPU. So if it shares the loop, some heat from the other blocks will make the heat dissipation lesser than what I want. Also, if anything happens (like a fail in the loops) I have one working. Say the second loop with GPUs and chipset fails, cooling keeps on with the CPU and vice-versa if the opposite happen.

Any dyed coolant can come out of the fluid depending on the type of block. Generally dye is to be avoided as it will stain up your tubes and can gunk things up. There have also been isolated instances of it separating entirely and forming a hard residue(though is is VERY isolated and not highly probable).

I have found for tubes that 3/8-5/8 is the sweet spot, thicker walls allow for tighter bends and won't kink as easily.

**Fans: I was mistaken, I thought you were using the GTX rads(:o doh).

http://skinneelabs.com/Radiators/HWLabs/GTX360/GTX360_DataChart.jpg

You can see from this chart that the medium(1800 RPM) Yate's are fine(Yate Loon D12SH-12 model, run lower using a speed controller).

Enjoy!

[jav6454]

^

Nice. I assume there is no difference in the D12SH-12 shown there and the D12SH-124UB I have (other than the fact that the -124UB are Blue UV lighting enabled.)

[No1451]

^

Nice. I assume there is no difference in the D12SH-12 shown there and the D12SH-124UB I have (other than the fact that the -124UB are Blue UV lighting enabled.)

Likely the same, never been a fan of Yates myself so I can't say definitively. I really do suggest one big ol' loop with both the CPU/GPUs/etc inclusive, though that Corsair unit looks fairly decent.

[jav6454]

Likely the same, never been a fan of Yates myself so I can't say definitively. I really do suggest one big ol' loop with both the CPU/GPUs/etc inclusive, though that Corsair unit looks fairly decent.

I'll be ditching the Yates pretty soon because I have no longer use for the UV lighting. So, I'll just get some regular Blue LED fans.

This look (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2466/fan-161/AeroCool_120mm_Turbine_2000_Fan_-_BLACK.html?tl=g36c331s518) promising, but the price seems to go a bit up.

Any ideas in the Cool Master fans?

[No1451]

I've only heard of AeroCool briefly and what I heard wasn't promising. Fans are one of those things where sticking to a brand name or a specific model is highly recommended as the performance can be massively different, even with two fans that CLAIM to have identical specs.

[jav6454]

I've only heard of AeroCool briefly and what I heard wasn't promising. Fans are one of those things where sticking to a brand name or a specific model is highly recommended as the performance can be massively different, even with two fans that CLAIM to have identical specs.

Yes, I have read the reviews from different fan makers for identically spec'd fans all over. Some people claim less or more airflow and noise levels that don't match up.

Which is why I intend to stick to Coolmaster if possible.

[No1451]

Yes, I have read the reviews from different fan makers for identically spec'd fans all over. Some people claim less or more airflow and noise levels that don't match up.

Which is why I intend to stick to Coolmaster if possible.

Scythe and Yates are also good options.

Also, I saw your choice of pump/res. I am actually considering selling off my Swiftech 655 and I have a number of reservoirs sitting around(1 bay res which I in no way recommend at all lol, and a Swiftech Micro-res). It also has a top included, ~$110 CAD new. If you're interested at all shoot me a PM and I can provide some pics of my hardware.

Edit: It's the adjustable speed 655

[jav6454]

Scythe and Yates are also good options.

Also, I saw your choice of pump/res. I am actually considering selling off my Swiftech 655 and I have a number of reservoirs sitting around(1 bay res which I in no way recommend at all lol, and a Swiftech Micro-res). It also has a top included, ~$110 CAD new. If you're interested at all shoot me a PM and I can provide some pics of my hardware.

Edit: It's the adjustable speed 655

I just saw the 1/4" tubing and 3/8" tubing. (both of them had a 1/6" wall) The 1/4" fits perfectly inside the 3/8". The 1/2" was too thick. Looks chunky and perfect for a Pentium 4, not a Core i7.

I think I will stick with 3/8" as the 1/2" tubing I saw was a bit too thick for my liking.

Also, yeah, I'll PM you when I'm ready to buy the cooling parts. I'll do all cooling at once.

[jav6454]

By the way. I looked over some reviews for the Feser-One UV coolant I choose and the results are interesting....

Linky (http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008/02/16/watercooling_fluid_shootout/1)

[No1451]

Have seen those results before, I would honeslty take them with a grain of salt as Feser is distiller water, dye and ethelyne glycol(iirc). The differences from feser to distilled are negligible IMO, it's mostly preference

[jav6454]

UV tubing in favor instead of using UV coolant?

linky (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8652/ex-tub-453/25_Meter_8_feet_Feser_Tube_Active_UV_Hose_-_Retail_Packed_-_38_ID_12OD_Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s171#blank)

[jav6454]

For those not familiar of why I chose Macross as a name. Here is why: Click Me (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmvWp0_qHgc&feature=PlayList&p=226BB42F14EEE9E7)

[No1451]

UV tubing in favor instead of using UV coolant?

linky (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8652/ex-tub-453/25_Meter_8_feet_Feser_Tube_Active_UV_Hose_-_Retail_Packed_-_38_ID_12OD_Anti-Kink_Tubing_-_UV_Blue.html?tl=g30c99s171#blank)

Yup, though I am partial to Primochill after having used both(also you can get it at performance pcs for $2.00 a foot rather than $3.00)
Linky (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=292&products_id=23362)

Also for most items they are a few bucks cheaper than FrozenCPU(they gouge a fair bit), and Sidewindercomputers.com is even better for watercooling

[waffle911]

Just read through... I have some suggestions for parts and reviews.
frozencpu.com (http://www.frozencpu.com) has a terrific selection of mods and water cooling parts ( I do believe they have UV LEDs, as well). frostytech.com also is a terrific resource for heatsink reviews (air-cooling for the most part, so not really relevant here, but good to know nonetheless). Bit-tech.net also recently did a 120mm fan roundup (http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2009/09/28/what-s-the-best-case-fan/1). Madshrimps.be did as well (http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&articID=892).

[Tilpots]

For those not familiar of why I chose Macross as a name. Here is why: Click Me (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmvWp0_qHgc&feature=PlayList&p=226BB42F14EEE9E7)

I used to work for Animeigo (http://www.animeigo.com/products/macross.t). We were the company the cleaned up Macross and re-released earlier the decade.

AnimEigo is proud to have been chosen to restore one of the best-loved and influential Anime TV Series of all time, Super Dimensional Fortress Macross.

Our collector's edition release of Macross featured all 36 episodes, unedited and uncut. And we not only made a new, digital transfer from film for this release, but also spent hundreds of thousands of dollars (and over a year!) digitally cleaning, restoring and enhancing the transfer!

The result is Macross like you've never seen it before.

The Macross discs are subtitled only, with our usual detailed liner notes, and a few easter eggs as well. As the rights have reverted to Harmony Gold, Macross is no longer available from us, but we will maintain the information on this page as a courtesy to current owners of the title.

I know this isn't the Marketplace, but I've got an unopened complete Box Set if you're interested. It's a mint condition colletor's item. PM me.

[jav6454]

I used to work for Animeigo (http://www.animeigo.com/products/macross.t). We were the company the cleaned up Macross and re-released earlier the decade.

....

I know this isn't the Marketplace, but I've got an unopened complete Box Set if you're interested. It's a mint condition colletor's item. PM me.

Thanks, I'll keep that present. I wish I could buy it right now, but as you can read above or last page, I suffered a set back $ wise.

Just read through... I have some suggestions for parts and reviews.
frozencpu.com (http://www.frozencpu.com) has a terrific selection of mods and water cooling parts ( I do believe they have UV LEDs, as well). frostytech.com also is a terrific resource for heatsink reviews (air-cooling for the most part, so not really relevant here, but good to know nonetheless). Bit-tech.net also recently did a 120mm fan roundup (http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cooling/2009/09/28/what-s-the-best-case-fan/1). Madshrimps.be did as well (http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&articID=892).

Thanks for those resources. I've been reading up some of those reviews.

[jav6454]

For those who like to see great computer mods, check out this site: Click Me (http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/)

I have never seen so many good looking computers mods ever. I have taken many ideas from that site and plan to implement them in Macross.

[No1451]

For those who like to see great computer mods, check out this site: Click Me (http://www.million-dollar-pc.com/)

I have never seen so many good looking computers mods ever. I have taken many ideas from that site and plan to implement them in Macross.

Yeah theres a lot of good stuff there, I love Charles Harwood of MurderMod, he does beautiful work

[jav6454]

Yeah theres a lot of good stuff there, I love Charles Harwood of MurderMod, he does beautiful work

Yes, that one was impressive, but I don't like the price tag of the case. $999 at murdermod.com

[jav6454]

Some little information. I just sent my application to the TomsHardware contest. Wish me luck.

[No1451]

Some little information. I just sent my application to the TomsHardware contest. Wish me luck.

If you care to make another guess I can enter it for you as well, at this juncture I have no use for anything but that SSD(looks so tasty) and am way too mad lazy to make a real guess at it:)

[jav6454]

If you care to make another guess I can enter it for you as well, at this juncture I have no use for anything but that SSD(looks so tasty) and am way too mad lazy to make a real guess at it:)

Just sent you the PM.

[petermcphee]

Jav:

When do you anticipate this project being completed? I am curious how the budget difficulties have impacted your overall timeline.

Good luck,

PeterMcphee

[jav6454]

Jav:

When do you anticipate this project being completed? I am curious how the budget difficulties have impacted your overall timeline.

Good luck,

PeterMcphee

As discussed in the previous page, the setback was around 4-5 months. However, by that time new more powerful hardware might be out. So, I'll be changing this part list accordingly.

However, I am buying the non trivial stuff (like the H-50 cooler, case, fans and other stuff that isn't updated at a fast pace) soon (1-2 months). I am just waiting for Tom's Hardware contest to be over and see if I won or lost. After that, I expect everything to go fine and buy the starting batch.

[jav6454]

I have done some research on the Corsair case. Apparently, the case is not designed or oriented for Air cooling. The small fan 120 mm at the button (after the first intake) doesn't move much air in and even if swaped for a more powerful fan, it just isn't enough air flow.

However, when the testing rig is water cooled, drops are drastic (obviously) and even better than most cases out there. I now have a reason to spend a bit in water cooling besides looks and aesthetics.

the hard drives do get really hot in the Corsair case, so it's a good idea according to the review to have that fan on, or at least to get a more powerful one to blow some extra air in there. Water cooling does not fly in that area, so it has to be air.

[jav6454]

I dot know how to put this. As either good or bad news. Well Anandtech has announced that HD 5850 supplies are very constrained and that it's maker (TMCS) is running low on a 40% yield per wafer. That means AMD is putting more chips into the 5870 line. That coupled with the current shortage means prices are going up and the the shortage might prolon itself.

Thaw bad news, good news is that. This leaves me waiting to see what nVidia can come up with in this time (GTX300 series).

[No1451]

Bummer on constrained supplies, hopefully it will be righted by purchase time.

[jav6454]

I am adding Push-N-Pull fan solution for the Black Ice GT 360 Radiator. That means I am getting six 120mm fans [3 on top and 3 on the bottom]. However, you may wonder, what will happen to the motherboard? Will there be any problems?

Well, no. The Corsair case has 110mm top space (space between the top lid and the motherboard screw). So that means I can put the GT radiator I got my eyes on (it's 30mm thick, so that's 110-30 = 80mm left). After subtracting the 120mm fan thickness (25mm thickness of the Yate Loons), that leaves me with 80mm - 50mm = 30mm left over space.

This is good news as I can have serious cooling power in that radiator. However, a new problem has arisen. Since a motherboard (any) can have so many fan connections, I am bound to run out. So, to help that I am adding a 6-channel Fan controller. This new controller will control the 6 Radiator fans. I will rev them up when I know I am about to do heavy stuff and rev them down when I am done doing anything. This way I obtained constant and maximum level (I hope) cool down at the radiator.

The H50 fan, the 2 side HDD fans and intake fan are going to be connected directly to the motherboard.

[No1451]

I am adding Push-N-Pull fan solution for the Black Ice GT 360 Radiator. That means I am getting six 120mm fans [3 on top and 3 on the bottom]. However, you may wonder, what will happen to the motherboard? Will there be any problems?

Well, no. The Corsair case has 110mm top space (space between the top lid and the motherboard screw). So that means I can put the GT radiator I got my eyes on (it's 30mm thick, so that's 110-30 = 80mm left). After subtracting the 120mm fan thickness (25mm thickness of the Yate Loons), that leaves me with 80mm - 50mm = 30mm left over space.

This is good news as I can have serious cooling power in that radiator. However, a new problem has arisen. Since a motherboard (any) can have so many fan connections, I am bound to run out. So, to help that I am adding a 6-channel Fan controller. This new controller will control the 6 Radiator fans. I will rev them up when I know I am about to do heavy stuff and rev them down when I am done doing anything. This way I obtained constant and maximum level (I hope) cool down at the radiator.

The H50 fan, the 2 side HDD fans and intake fan are going to be connected directly to the motherboard.

Make sure to get a decent one, the Kaze fan controller is a very good unit with a nice easy to read display.

[jav6454]

Ok, some updates. I have decided the first 3 parts to be bought. The parts are the Corsair Case, H50 CPU Cooler (I'm going i7 LGA-1366 socket) and the radiator.

These parts are going to be bought by mid/end December. I am buying some X-Mas presents and thats the mini set back [besides the big one]. I expect to have these 3 parts by January. Why January? Well, I'm going home to Honduras, so I need a little spending $.

I may by a 4th part.

[jav6454]

Change in Mother Board. EVGA doesn't play nice with ATI, and I don't want conflicts or problems in hardware from day 1, so, Hello ASUS P6T Deluxe v2.

Edit - If nVidia's GTX-300 series is out (by the time buying the GPUs come) and they beat in performance the ATI cards, I'll switch back to EVGA board. Otherwise, I need an universal solution.

[jav6454]

Small update. The Corsair 1000W HX will be on sale on NewEgg later today. That's going to be my first buy.

First Macross piece is the PSU, funny, I thought it'd be the haul first.

[Eidorian]

PSUs don't tend to drop in price or advance in hardware that quickly.

[jav6454]

PSUs don't tend to drop in price or advance in hardware that quickly.

I know, but Newegg has them cheap third time, and I was already planning on buying case+psu at same time.

[jav6454]

Pictures from the Corsair 1000W are here. They were taken where I work.

[Eidorian]

I thought my 600W PSU was huge.

[jav6454]

Asus updated some of their motherboards. Due to this, I am now updating to the newer and better spec'd Asus P6X58D Premium.

Some info on it. It's basically a P6T Deluxe V2, but it now has native DDR3-1600Mhz support, includes 2x USB 3.0 ports (these run at 4.8Gb/s or 600MB/s) and 2x SATA 3 ports (running at 6.0Gb/s or 750MB/s)...

Other than that, the PATA 100, Floppy ports are gone along with 1 Front USB header.

[No1451]

Asus updated some of their motherboards. Due to this, I am now updating to the newer and better spec'd Asus P6X58D Premium.

Some info on it. It's basically a P6T Deluxe V2, but it now has native DDR3-1600Mhz support, includes 2x USB 3.0 ports (these run at 4.8Gb/s or 600MB/s) and 2x SATA 3 ports (running at 4.8Gb/s or 600MB/s)...

Other than that, the PATA 100, Floppy ports are gone along with 1 Front USB header.

Nice, I'm so glad that companies are starting to drop legacy ports from their enthusiast boards, it's about damn time. Any idea of a time frame now for the machine?

[jav6454]

Nice, I'm so glad that companies are starting to drop legacy ports from their enthusiast boards, it's about damn time. Any idea of a time frame now for the machine?

I am going on vacation December... so thats a break.

Should have the mobo by mids of Jan. Hopefully by March, it'll be running on basic stuff only 1 video card no RAID array (everything from the SSD). Also, no overlocking, everything at stock. By May I should have the rest of the pieces together (RAID + extra vid card and possible sound card), still no overclocking. By June (if nothing sets me back) it should be on water and overclocked.

Seems like a long time, but it may well be worth it.

[jav6454]

More pictures you guys.

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/8014/img0145wi.jpg

Pics of the boxes more organized
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4396/img0154t.jpg

Here are the:

- 2x XFX ATI Radeon HD 5850 Black Edition

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/9198/img0126qg.jpg

Here are shots of the actual 5850s:

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/6449/img0127pu.jpg

Shots in the case already:

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1128/img0153f.jpg

- Intel Core i7 930 @ 2.80 GHz

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/29/img0147e.jpg

- Asus P6X58D-E

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/4468/img0146xp.jpg

Actual motherboard shot:
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/561/img0149ay.jpg

- Asus WLAN 802.11a/b/g/n

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8195/img0148xy.jpg

- Corsair HX 1kW
- Corsair 800D

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/4774/img0072hf.jpg

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

Here is everything put together:

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/1738/img0155m.jpg

Another angle:

http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/3582/img0151ex.jpg

[jav6454]

Small update people. I just got the Corsair H50 cooler for Macross.

I'll post pictures tomorrow when I get it in my hands. Also, as always the usual, already installed pictures as well.

[Eidorian]

I've heard mixed reviews about the H50. The noise from the pump is often noted.

[jav6454]

I've heard mixed reviews about the H50. The noise from the pump is often noted.

I saw one already installed on a friend's computer. The GPU's fan makes more noise than the pump.

[Eidorian]

I saw one already installed on a friend's computer. The GPU's fan makes more noise than the pump.I guess it is something you need to hear first.

[jav6454]

I guess it is something you need to hear first.

True

[jav6454]

Hello, I'm back with some Desktop pictures.

I'll have pictures about the other stuff later on.

Here is CPU-Z and GPU-Z screenshots.

[phas3]

nice build so far, and as I mentioned in the other thread

haha we think alike, btw if you haven't found a chipset block for the Asus yet, I beleive this

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaekasx58a.html

will be compatible and you can get the mosfets also, I say sell the h50 and get EK Supreme HF and upgrade the rad to a ThermoChill PA120.4

scratch the quad rad since you have the 800d and get this ThermoChill PA120.3 or the XSPC RX360, I had the 800D before also.

Later down the road if you decide to scrap the h50 and get a cpu block you can remove the bottom HDD cage on the 800d and use a dremel to cut out a an outline for a dual rad.

[jav6454]

nice build so far, and as I mentioned in the other thread



scratch the quad rad since you have the 800d and get this ThermoChill PA120.3 or the XSPC RX360, I had the 800D before also.

Later down the road if you decide to scrap the h50 and get a cpu block you can remove the bottom HDD cage on the 800d and use a dremel to cut out a an outline for a dual rad.

The HDD cage has to stay obviously. Otherwise, where would the HDDs go? In any case, the H50 will go once I get the water loop components. I am making that space, a single 140mm radiator that will hook up to the top 360 radiator.

That should give me extra chill power and enough to include in the CPU into the loop.

Side note, I am going to get a sorta lavish reservoir, the FrozenQMod Helix Reservoir. It looks like the Resident Evil T-Virus hold canister. It will go perfectly since I am going to use a light blue or clear dye. The Helix interior will be blue going along with the theme.

[Ttownbeast]

The HDD cage has to stay obviously. Otherwise, where would the HDDs go? In any case, the H50 will go once I get the water loop components. I am making that space, a single 140mm radiator that will hook up to the top 360 radiator.

That should give me extra chill power and enough to include in the CPU into the loop.

Side note, I am going to get a sorta lavish reservoir, the FrozenQMod Helix Reservoir. It looks like the Resident Evil T-Virus hold canister. It will go perfectly since I am going to use a light blue or clear dye. The Helix interior will be blue going along with the theme.

You don't necessarily need the HDD cage if you can find a clean spot to velcro the HD to something. as long as the cage is not one piece molded with the DVD drive cage.

I have found velcro quite useful for quite a few computer hardware needs lately, I dont have to unscrew the side of my G4's plexiglass case anymore thanks to that stuff, I use Velcro strips to mechanically mount my hard disks in my Ubuntu server case too I removed the HDD cage in that one to increase airflow and velcroed the HDs to one of the panels inside.

[jav6454]

You don't necessarily need the HDD cage if you can find a clean spot to velcro the HD to something. as long as the cage is not one piece molded with the DVD drive cage.

It is actually, it is soldered/screwed together. Also, I don't want to really mod the case that much. I want to keep it as close to the original case as possible.

That said, once the warranty expires, I might go and experiment on it. I forgot to mention, there is a low level overclock on the i7-930. Currently, the CPU is running at 3.8GHz, (200MHz Base clock * 19). However, the i7-930 I have allows for up to 23x multiplier (weird). So, I will see how well that multiplier goes on with the current Base Clock.

[phas3]

The HDD cage has to stay obviously. Otherwise, where would the HDDs go? In any case, the H50 will go once I get the water loop components. I am making that space, a single 140mm radiator that will hook up to the top 360 radiator.

That should give me extra chill power and enough to include in the CPU into the loop.

Side note, I am going to get a sorta lavish reservoir, the FrozenQMod Helix Reservoir. It looks like the Resident Evil T-Virus hold canister. It will go perfectly since I am going to use a light blue or clear dye. The Helix interior will be blue going along with the theme.

depending on how many HDDs you have, are the hot swap bays in the front not enough?

[jav6454]

depending on how many HDDs you have, are the hot swap bays in the front not enough?

4 HDDs in the Hot Swap bays, and 1 SSD in the bottom two trays. I plan to expand to an extra SSD. Leave the Intel drive as application storage, the new SSD as bootup drive, and the RAID array as multimedia and just general stuff storage.

I didn't include those changes to the original plans because I thought of them like 4 days ago while reading a Intel article on NAND flash storage.

[Ttownbeast]

That said, once the warranty expires, I might go and experiment on it.

it takes a lot of self control I commend yours. There is no product warranty I have not almost immediately broken once I have opened the box LOL

In fact I just purchased this cute little 70 dollar toy video projector a couple weeks ago and converted it into an electronic version of a camera obscura for my art business what I did to it totally voided the warranty within hours of its arrival.

[jav6454]

it takes a lot of self control I commend yours. There is no product warranty I have not almost immediately broken once I have opened the box LOL

In fact I just purchased this cute little 70 dollar toy video projector a couple weeks ago and converted it into an electronic version of a camera obscura for my art business what I did to it totally voided the warranty within hours of its arrival.

I'm just waiting for the non-trivial stuff to run out of warranty. After that I will go berserk customizing.

As far as the 5850s go, I'll hold up on those on air for the time being. Reason is, they have lifetime warranty with XFX and best off all, XFX doesn't care if you take the air based cooler off and install a 3rd party water block, in fact they encourage it. In their warranty it has a clause that says if the card needs service, just re-asemble it back and send it off to them.

Anyways, just tested the CPU for higher overclock, it appears to hold. Still at 200MHz baseclock, but this time at a higher multiplier, x23. That means a 4.6GHz overclock on the H50, temps hold. I'll get to posting soon (after Microprocessors, and Controls Systems test)

[phas3]

I'm just waiting for the non-trivial stuff to run out of warranty. After that I will go berserk customizing.

As far as the 5850s go, I'll hold up on those on air for the time being. Reason is, they have lifetime warranty with XFX and best off all, XFX doesn't care if you take the air based cooler off and install a 3rd party water block, in fact they encourage it. In their warranty it has a clause that says if the card needs service, just re-asemble it back and send it off to them.

Anyways, just tested the CPU for higher overclock, it appears to hold. Still at 200MHz baseclock, but this time at a higher multiplier, x23. That means a 4.6GHz overclock on the H50, temps hold. I'll get to posting soon (after Microprocessors, and Controls Systems test)

what programs are you using to stress test?

[jav6454]

what programs are you using to stress test?

Prime95 for CPU and Furmark for the GPUs. The previos test are my college courses, lol.

[jav6454]

Ok, small update. Rather an infuriating one.

Long story short.

- Cousin (12 year old) came over and asked me to use Macross to play Crysis WH.
- I say yes
- I leave him for 20 minutes
- He comes back saying he got bored
- I go turn Macross off because he left it on.
- BSOD in full force; mind you my first non-overclocking produced BSOD
- Reboot Macross
- POST message says Unstable/Failed Overclock
- Go into BIOS settings
- Settings I had: x19 multiplier * 200MHz BCLK @ 1.225 V VCORE
- Settings I now see: x21 * 210 MHz @ 1.225V VCORE ... duh its going to go wrong; not enough voltage
- Try to reload settings previous... fail for 30 minutes. Get frustrated.
- Reset CMOS

Now, I have been trying an entire day to redo the settings as they were before. Not happy as I get a stable overclock at x18 * 200 @ 1.225V. However, if I step it up to x19, I no longer get a stable system (reboots, crashes, BSODs). I have upp'd the VCORE all the way to 1.26ish and still I get unstable system. I am pissed right now. I had a nice low voltage for that awesome overclock.

[phas3]

How long did you stress test your stable settings?

- Bios updated?
- Temp Check
- RAM Timings set for your type of ram?

try these settings

Ai Overclock Tuner.....................[Manual]
CPU Ratio Setting......................[21.0]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech............[Disabled]
Xtreme Phase Full Power Mode...........[Enabled]
BCLK Frequency.........................[200]
PCIE Frequency.........................[100]
DRAM Frequency.........................[DDR3-1603MHz]
UCLK Frequency.........................[3208MHz]
QPI Link Data Rate.....................[Auto]

CPU Voltage Control....................[Manual]
CPU Voltage............................[1.35]
CPU PLL Voltage........................[1.80]
QPI/DRAM Core Voltage..................[1.335]
IOH Voltage............................[1.12]
IOH PCIE Voltage.......................[1.50]
ICH Voltage............................[1.20]
ICH PCIE Voltage.......................[1.50]
DRAM Bus Voltage.......................[1.64]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA...........[Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA...........[Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB...........[Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB...........[Auto]
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC...........[Auto]
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC...........[Auto]

Load-Line Calibration..................[Enabled]
CPU Differential Amplitude.............[800mV]
CPU Clock Skew.........................[Delay 300ps]
CPU Spread Spectrum....................[Disabled]
IOH Clock Skew.........................[Auto]
PCIE Spread Spectrum...................[Disabled]

C1E Support............................[Disabled]
Hardware Prefetcher....................[Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch...........[Enabled]
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech...........[Disabled]
CPU TM Function........................[Enabled]
Execute Disable Bit....................[Enabled]
Intel(r) HT Technology.................[Enabled]
Active Processor Cores.................[All]
A20M...................................[Disabled]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech............[Disabled]
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech..................[Disabled]

if this doesn't work increase your "CPU Voltage" and/or "QPI/DRAM Core Voltag

[jav6454]

^^ Thanks man. I managed to get the previous overclock stable. I now have a VCORE rating of 1.26875 on the BIOS settings, much higher than the 1.2225 I used to have.

Also, in reference to the x18 * 200 overclock, it was a 6 hour testing for that one. To up the BCLK I usually do 10 minute testing via PRIME_95, and take 20 minutes when it comes to upping the multiplier. However, seeing as I couldn't get a stable x19 I decided to test x18, get it stable and then go for x19 and see how to make it work.

Well, it paid off. I'll post the results on what my voltages are later on. BTW, if you notice the temps, they are high because I am running Folding@Home in the background, so the CPU is idling higher than usual. Oh the screen shot show the current load on the CPU is around 26%


*** CLICK TO ENLARGE ***

[phas3]

^^ Thanks man. I managed to get the previous overclock stable. I now have a VCORE rating of 1.26875 on the BIOS settings, much higher than the 1.2225 I used to have.

Also, in reference to the x18 * 200 overclock, it was a 6 hour testing for that one. To up the BCLK I usually do 10 minute testing via PRIME_95, and take 20 minutes when it comes to upping the multiplier. However, seeing as I couldn't get a stable x19 I decided to test x18, get it stable and then go for x19 and see how to make it work.

Well, it paid off. I'll post the results on what my voltages are later on. BTW, if you notice the temps, they are high because I am running Folding@Home in the background, so the CPU is idling higher than usual. Oh the screen shot show the current load on the CPU is around 26%


*** CLICK TO ENLARGE ***

For stress testing the CPU I do a combination of Prime 95 and Linx

I run linx first and see if it passes 20 runs

then finish of with Prime 95 Blend test for 8 hours, if it passes the OC is stable.

Linx will find errors before prime 95 finds errors, so I use it for a quick check on OC before messing with the bios and it also runs your baby a little hotter than Prime 95, a combination of both programs will def get you a stable OC.

Some recommend ITB(Intel Burn Test) but it puts serious heat on your cpu and I'm not down with that unless I'm under water.

I also run memtest86 even though primes blend test, tests both cpu and ram.

[jav6454]

For stress testing the CPU I do a combination of Prime 95 and Linx

I run linx first and see if it passes 20 runs

then finish of with Prime 95 Blend test for 8 hours, if it passes the OC is stable.

Linx will find errors before prime 95 finds errors, so I use it for a quick check on OC before messing with the bios and it also runs your baby a little hotter than Prime 95, a combination of both programs will def get you a stable OC.

Some recommend ITB(Intel Burn Test) but it puts serious heat on your cpu and I'm not down with that unless I'm under water.

I also run memtest86 even though primes blend test, tests both cpu and ram.

Another quick update, I ran Prime_95 for 4 and a half hours before Macross reboot itself; I was on my MacBook on a side desk when I heard the Windows 7 start-up chime. However, here is the kicker, Linx made 40 passes; settings were Real-Time, 64-bit, Stop on Error, Problem size 11000, 8 threads, and 76*C maximum temp allowed. Temperatures were around 75*C maximum during the Prime_95 testing.

I'm thinking maybe it was a small fluke? That or, I'll raise the VCORE by another increment.


Edit - As of now, I'm doing an ALL Linx test. For me, that means, Problem Size 24508 and Memory is 4602 MiB.

[jav6454]

Macross failed to pass the previous mentioned All test under Test Run #12. Stop on Error kicked in.

Raised the VCORE by 2 increments. Giving it another go and checking further stability.

Edit - Will report tomorrow with results, today I have Controls homework to finish.

[jav6454]

Another update, Macross just passed the 5+ hours Prime_95 test. Temperatures stayed in the mid 70s*C with an ambient of 75*F.

[jav6454]

Just inserted a new SSD into the machine. 16GB Kingston SSD. Why do low? It is set as a Recovery Core drive. I put in this drive the entire Windows 7 image (or .iso). In other words, if the main SSD corrupts and Windows becomes unbeatable. I can easily fix and repair it using the 16GB SSD.

[Prodo123]

Hot damn nice build!
Now, to make it even better... (http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/)

[jav6454]

Hot damn nice build!
Now, to make it even better... (http://www.insanelymac.com/forum/)

I don't think it is possible given the fact that the motherboard is an Asus one and that OS X doesn't have HD5850 support.

If I get it working, it'll be running under the bare essence of OS X.

[Prodo123]

I don't think it is possible given the fact that the motherboard is an Asus one and that OS X doesn't have HD5850 support.

If I get it working, it'll be running under the bare essence of OS X.

You sir underestimate the power of the dark side ;)
Hackintosh can run custom kexts built by the community. Most installations are successful through trial-and-error and verbose boot analysis.

[jav6454]

You sir underestimate the power of the dark side ;)
Hackintosh can run custom kexts built by the community. Most installations are successful through trial-and-error and verbose boot analysis.

Don't get me wrong. I wanna see how OS X runs on it (it has been an irking curiosity of mine says Day 1), but I have little to no space left in my main SSD, much less the newly acquired Recovery Core SSD to put OS X in.

Not to mention, the last thing I want is for a messed up BIOS and having to redo the current over clock.

[Prodo123]

Don't get me wrong. I wanna see how OS X runs on it (it has been an irking curiosity of mine says Day 1), but I have little to no space left in my main SSD, much less the newly acquired Recovery Core SSD to put OS X in.

Not to mention, the last thing I want is for a messed up BIOS and having to redo the current over clock.
OS X only runs on EFI. Since your mobo does not support EFI, the bootloader will install an EFI emulator, similar to the BIOS emulating layer of Boot Camp, to let OS X run without messing with your BIOS settings. Which means your overclock is kept safe while you use OS X.

[jav6454]

OS X only runs on EFI. Since your mobo does not support EFI, the bootloader will install an EFI emulator, similar to the BIOS emulating layer of Boot Camp, to let OS X run without messing with your BIOS settings. Which means your overclock is kept safe while you use OS X.

See that's another thing. I know very little about OS X on custom built hardware.

I know the very basics (not everything is supported, EFI support only, Chameleon, driver headaches) but not the detail things that create a successful OS X installation.

[techfreak85]

I don't think it is possible given the fact that the motherboard is an Asus one and that OS X doesn't have HD5850 support.

If I get it working, it'll be running under the bare essence of OS X.

I think you should be able to get it working without too much trouble. If you are looking for an easier way to get it working (insanelymac can be quite the rabbit hole), I would advise tonymacx86.com using the iBoot+Multibeast method.

[Prodo123]

I think you should be able to get it working without too much trouble. If you are looking for an easier way to get it working (insanelymac can be quite the rabbit hole), I would advise tonymacx86.com using the iBoot+Multibeast method.
Tony's method is OK, but just in case your hardware is not supported by Multibeast, you should go to InsanelyMac forums for further help.

[techfreak85]

Tony's method is OK, but just in case your hardware is not supported by Multibeast, you should go to InsanelyMac forums for further help.

Sure, but it's quite probable that tony's method would work for him. Nothing too out of the ordinary. For the 5850, graphicsenabler=yes should work, as for the mobo, the only trouble I see would be finding a specific DSDT as it may not be in tony's dsdt database. It's an x58, so no major hacking should be needed.

[jav6454]

Tony's method is OK, but just in case your hardware is not supported by Multibeast, you should go to InsanelyMac forums for further help.

That's the thing, if I try to do it, I will do knowing that I can achieve little probability of failure. Last thing I need is flipping through various files and cmd lines to get the computer back at its original state.

Sure, but it's quite probable that tony's method would work for him. Nothing too out of the ordinary. For the 5850, graphicsenabler=yes should work, as for the mobo, the only trouble I see would be finding a specific DSDT as it may not be in tony's dsdt database. It's an x58, so no major hacking should be needed.

Ouch! Yes, the mobo I have can be a pain to deal with. I looked stuff up on it regarding OS X and it has its complications.

[macbook pro i5]

That's the thing, if I try to do it, I will do knowing that I can achieve little probability of failure. Last thing I need is flipping through various files and cmd lines to get the computer back at its original state.



Ouch! Yes, the mobo I have can be a pain to deal with. I looked stuff up on it regarding OS X and it has its complications.

Its ridiculous how long the update procedure takes not mentioning the kernel panics you can have and instability issues I would not do osx if I were you ...how bout linux instead?

[techfreak85]

Its ridiculous how long the update procedure takes not mentioning the kernel panics you can have and instability issues I would not do osx if I were you ...how bout linux instead?

What? I haven't have that many issues with my Hackintosh once I got it going. Of couse I figured out how to set it up properly, but it's become pretty simple now for the slightly more "advanced" user. It's worked so well for me that it's my main machine. The updates take no longer than a regular Mac.

[Prodo123]

Its ridiculous how long the update procedure takes not mentioning the kernel panics you can have and instability issues I would not do osx if I were you ...how bout linux instead?
You're installing an OS on hardware that it's not supposed to run on. Of course it's going to have some quirks and bugs.
And if you've done it right, you will not have a problem with updates. If you do, then you can always downgrade and wait until a working version comes out.

Just a note: Never use community-made distros of OS X as these leave out certain kexts and have excessively troublesome upgrade procedures. tonymacx86's method is by far the best.

[macbook pro i5]

You're installing an OS on hardware that it's not supposed to run on. Of course it's going to have some quirks and bugs.
And if you've done it right, you will not have a problem with updates. If you do, then you can always downgrade and wait until a working version comes out.

Just a note: Never use community-made distros of OS X as these leave out certain kexts and have excessively troublesome upgrade procedures. tonymacx86's method is by far the best.
No I was just telling OP that an osx mackintosh is very unstable yes I know bugs are to be expected as with my hackintosh,anyway I used a dongle and I will link a review to it but this is a 2008 review-http://gizmodo.com/5049756/review-efix-dongle-perfectly-transforms-pc-to-mac

----------

What? I haven't have that many issues with my Hackintosh once I got it going. Of couse I figured out how to set it up properly, but it's become pretty simple now for the slightly more "advanced" user. It's worked so well for me that it's my main machine. The updates take no longer than a regular Mac.

Don't you have to use chameleon every time you update?this takes up enough time like 5-10 mins extra because my last one required me to do this, you are talking about lion hackintosh then yes it easier.

[techfreak85]

Don't you have to use chameleon every time you update?this takes up enough time like 5-10 mins extra because my last one required me to do this, you are talking about lion hackintosh then yes it easier.

No? Most of the time I update like everyone else. Just run software update. Chameleon is just the bootloader and is untouched by software updates.

[macbook pro i5]

No? Most of the time I update like everyone else. Just run software update. Chameleon is just the bootloader and is untouched by software updates.
back in 2007 -8 I had to use something with software update but that was history guess its gotten easier since?

[techfreak85]

back in 2007 -8 I had to use something with software update but that was history guess its gotten easier since?

Were you using a community made distro? Most setups these days are vanilla with little actual hacking.

[macbook pro i5]

Were you using a community made distro? Most setups these days are vanilla with little actual hacking.

oh right I see after that I just purchased a real mac pro it defiantly is worth the hefty price for the 8 core.

[jav6454]

I think I'll try the hacktint0sh deal. But not right now. I'll wait until I am over with the FE Exam.

[macbook pro i5]

I think I'll try the hacktint0sh deal. But not right now. I'll wait until I am over with the FE Exam.
keep in mind it will run slower then real macs and just be careful....OK