Is there a program that I could open my existing wordpress site in and visually edit it? Like not have to code very much. Not dreamweaver though.
I have
two solutions for you!
#1 An online WYSIWYG WordPress theme editor
From the page promoting the online software:
"
...lets you tweak every nook and cranny of a theme then spit it back to your server to go live. You can add columns, change fonts and backgrounds, even throw in a customizable tag cloud--all with no coding experience required. All you need is a little creativity and some working knowledge of drop-down menus."
#2 Adobe ThemeWeaver (it's a Dreamweaver extension)
From the page promoting the downloadable software extension to DW:
"...you can edit a WordPress theme instantly in realtime. No server configuration is needed and you can work offline. Now you can use Dreamweaver’s powerful design tools to edit, enhance, customize and create personalized WordPress theme."
I know you said no DW, but I assume you have DW and hate the design view mode like most people. This extension makes theme editing much easier, so it's one of the most powerful techniques out there to do EXACTLY what you want to do. If you don't have DW, follow the other advice posted by me and others, of course.
-jim