Is this water damage mbair?
Did you test with external keyboard only and remove keyboard flex?
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SMC Issue on MBP 13 - Hardware Troubleshooting Guide
- Thread starter Dadioh
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Is this water damage mbair?
Did you test with external keyboard only and remove keyboard flex?
No Water damage to Macbook Air . .
Haven't tried tried with external keyboard or removing the keyboard flex, will try that and update the results !
changed again c7026 as it was bad value but still the same.... still 16volt on battery fuse and no 5v output from 3.3 and 5v regulator (maybe because no pgood because of that 16v instead of 12.5...
Hi All,
I have a weird issue with my Mid 2012 13" MBP 2.5 i5. and some questions
1) the logic board number is 820-3115-A - does anyone one know what is the difference between the A and the B spec? i've only seen B spec related posts/pitures/schematics.
2) the computer would turn off sporadically, i was not able to run any of the diagnostic tests because i would just shut off. Since i've disassembled and reassembled the entire thing and last night it seemed like it was working, i ran both the EFI and OS based ASD 3S150 and it gave me a clean pass. Following that i tried to do a clean install and it shut down again for no apparent reason. can some one point me in the right direction as to trying to diagnose it?
Also, at the apple store they tested the RAM (i didn't have spares so i brought it to the apple store) and said the problem was the logic board.
Thank you kindly for taking the time.
M,
I have a weird issue with my Mid 2012 13" MBP 2.5 i5. and some questions
1) the logic board number is 820-3115-A - does anyone one know what is the difference between the A and the B spec? i've only seen B spec related posts/pitures/schematics.
2) the computer would turn off sporadically, i was not able to run any of the diagnostic tests because i would just shut off. Since i've disassembled and reassembled the entire thing and last night it seemed like it was working, i ran both the EFI and OS based ASD 3S150 and it gave me a clean pass. Following that i tried to do a clean install and it shut down again for no apparent reason. can some one point me in the right direction as to trying to diagnose it?
Also, at the apple store they tested the RAM (i didn't have spares so i brought it to the apple store) and said the problem was the logic board.
Thank you kindly for taking the time.
M,
no Vcore voltage -820-3209
hi,
i hav mackbook air with same problem as you mention above, i hav attach the MAX15120 voltages levels,
Note :-
P5V_S0_CPUIMVP_VDD=5v
CPUIMVP_VR_ON=3.3v
..........................................
CPUIMVP_PGOOD =0v
CPUIMVP_AXG_PGOOD =0v
PPVCORE_S0_CPU=0v
CPU_VCCSENSE_P=0v
CPUIMVP_FBA=0v
Regards,
GL0gic
hi,
i hav mackbook air with same problem as you mention above, i hav attach the MAX15120 voltages levels,
Note :-
P5V_S0_CPUIMVP_VDD=5v
CPUIMVP_VR_ON=3.3v
..........................................
CPUIMVP_PGOOD =0v
CPUIMVP_AXG_PGOOD =0v
PPVCORE_S0_CPU=0v
CPU_VCCSENSE_P=0v
CPUIMVP_FBA=0v
Regards,
GL0gic
Attachments
Last edited:
hi,
i hav mackbook air with same problem as you mention above, i hav attach the MAX15120 voltages levels,
Note :-
P5V_S0_CPUIMVP_VDD=5v
CPUIMVP_VR_ON=3.3v
..........................................
CPUIMVP_PGOOD =0v
CPUIMVP_AXG_PGOOD =0v
PPVCORE_S0_CPU=0v
CPU_VCCSENSE_P=0v
CPUIMVP_FBA=0v
Regards,
GL0gic
Attachments
fraid not south.
Macbook airs run on 8v.
read the battery.
----------
i just was working on a similar 2014 MBA
the problem is this failure happened after a week of working.
I left it on my preheater for 5 minutes at 220 degrees, cpu voltage appear and system is now working
my suspicion is that it had bad solder or corrosion spreading under the cpu caused by liquid damage. ideally needs an ultrasonic cleaner.
i have another similar one that wont show any cpu voltage unless ran in smc bypass. In smc bypass the system powers and operates but the fan doesn't run, very strange
Yes you are right I just had this problem with MBP had 5.5v on pin 2 12.5v the other side of R7402 changed U7400 all good. This will help the MBPs with this
issue. Sorry guys not worked on Airs yet.
Regards and good luck
Hi this could be U7000 or the 2 Fets fed from pin 23. I replaced both Fets and U7000 problem solved. Hope this helps.
Regards south657
Nope !
No Change in behavior, its acting same way . .
Any one else who can suggest me anything about the issue in post number #2950 ?
Thanks
Hi ZZZAC,
I was not getting 12V on an Air it was a MBP 13" 2011 K90I. I7 This was an interesting fix for me. Laptech had a fix on R7402. Thread no 1934 I had the same problem as him in his case it was a bad R7402 in my case a bad U7400. Just miss read the Air thought it was a pro problem, any way the point is read both sides of R7402. This is Laptech's thread and it is how i solved mine as i was not getting 12V on both sides of R7402 when i changed the chip and got 12v on both sides of R7402 job done a success. Getting the chime on an I7 is so good!! LOL. Big thanks to Rog.
(Thread no 1934 Hi,
Have just had another repair success. This time it is a 820-2936-B K90i logic board. Fault symptoms were it would power on, the fan would spin but it would not post, no chimes and no display. After checking all the main voltages, i started to look deeper into the CPU side of things because it was cold to the touch. Experience has taught me that if a BGA chip is working, be it CPU, Northbridge, or GPU, it gets very warm to the touch, almost to the point where the heat of the IC starts to hurt your fingers when you touch it. In my case, the Northbridge was getting very hot so I knew to some degree that it was working but the CPU chip was only luke warm. When this chip is functioning properly it gets extremely hot but it was not doing it in this case so that basically told me to start focusing on the CPU side of things.
I checked around a few capacitors (C1683, C1681, C1680 & C1682) to see if i had one of the main CPU voltages. On the faulty board i got 0v but when i checked against a working board, the voltages on those capacitors was around 0.8v. This told me I was missing one of the main CPU voltages. I checked on the schematic and found i had lost PPVCORE_S0_CPU. Tracing this signal back to it's source, Q7520 i found this component was not functioning properly. Upon further checking I found that the input signals to Q7520 where missing. Therefore tracing further the source of those signals I found that they originate from U7400 (main CPU control IC).
This now meant I had to figure out why U7400 was not working. I checked to make sure i had 5v (PP5V_S0) on pins 15,24 and 40, which I did. Please note you will only see the 5v on those pins when the board is powered on due to the power on state signal S0. I went back to the working board to make sure what voltage was present on pin#2 CPUIMVP_TON which was 12.5v. I subsquently found out from the working board that this voltage is present when the board is powered off.
I checked the faulty board and guess what, this voltage was not present so i checked the input of the this voltage which passes through a resistor R7402 and low and behold, i had 12.5v on one side (PPBUS_S5_HS_COMPUTING_ISNS) of the resistor but not the other. This told me the resistor had to be faulty. I therefore replaced it with one from a scrapped board. Just had the magsafe plugged in but did not power on (same as i did with the working board), measured pin#2 of U7400 and now i got 12.5v. I therefore connected everything back onto the logic board, RAM, FAN, LCD. Powered on and it displayed with the flashing icon...another success.
Rog )
South657
Hi,
1) 12v is available on both side of R7402 still there is "No VCORE" but still no clue. i suspect might be problem with CPUIMVP_FBA=0v, no feedback from CPU, might be gone dry solder.
2) one more problem is there i.e, no green light appear on the adapter but FAN run continues. as i plug in adapter without battery.
3) Except vcore voltage, other voltages in the logic board are ok as per schematic.
Regards,
GL0gic
Hi Glogic,
It should be 8v on an air, anway you need to sort out the green light and orange light first of all the info you need for that is in this thread. It could just be the magsafe or U7000?
Regards
south657
hi,
i hav 820-3462-a,
a) the problem is, without battery if i plug the megasafe, the green light turn into amber light in few seconds without battery connect, fan not run, no voltages in the board except 12v, G3hot.
b) tps51980. 5v gone short, later the short caps removed, but still the problem remains same. & there is no other short component in the board.
c) In S5 states the PP3V3_S5_REG line should available even without power on. i suspect tps51980 gone bad might be internal short-circuit inside chip.
do u hav any idea how tps51980 works?
thanks & regards,
GL0gic
Attachments
Boot problems on MBP 13" 7,1 A1278, EMC 2351, SMC 1.62f7
Sorry for the long post, just trying to be complete. Looking for schematics and a solution to this (apparently common) problem on my mid 2010 unibody Macbook Pro.
My problems started after I upgraded the RAM from 4GB to 8GB. I had to put the 4GB sticks back in when I discovered faster RAM won't run in my machine. It was PNY PC3 10666 not PC3 8500. Never heard of RAM being too fast! Anyway, after I put the 4BG back in and rebooted the system I noticed the clock was reset. Then I noticed the fans running all the time. Then it would just shut itself off. Each time I was able to reboot the system and seemed to be OK generally. Each reboot seemed to surface more issues. Finally it refused to boot at all.
I thought the disk might have gotten corrupted so I removed it, put it in a portable FW case and took it to my friends place and I used his system to run diskutil. It didn't find any issues.
I then found this thread and was able to boot the system with the "bypass" or debug procedure. I would check the G3Hot line but the pic on the 6th post by Dadioh doesn't look like my MB (no large pads like the photo shows). The system is my main workhorse and aside from the 1TB disk is all original. I have no idea hown many cycles are on the battery, but it charges to 100% most of the time, occasionally only to 96%. I try to hover around the 50% mark. Running Parallels, iTunes and lots of tabs in firefox I generally get around 2.5 to 3 hours of run time.
This thread is so big it's hard to find info in it, like the correct schematic or board layout. The control key is bad on the keyboard so unless the apple bios will work with a USB keybd I can't reset SMC with any key sequence that uses control (it's a pain for terminal work!).
I am a software engineer but my degree is in hardware. Not too long ago I could handle the scale of smc components in use but the technology has surpassed my eyesight and toolset in many cases. The large pads shown in Dadioh's pic would be nice, but I don't have them on my board. I have attached a pic of that area on my system and circled what I think might be the pads in question, tho not like Dadioh's pic. It looks like there's solder mask on them too. If one of these is G3Hot which one?
If anyone could point me to where in this thread I can find a layout & schematic I would be most grateful.I've spent some time searching but 119 pages with a keyword like schematic doesn't help much.
Any clues, advice or things to check would be great too.
Sorry for the long post, just trying to be complete. Looking for schematics and a solution to this (apparently common) problem on my mid 2010 unibody Macbook Pro.
My problems started after I upgraded the RAM from 4GB to 8GB. I had to put the 4GB sticks back in when I discovered faster RAM won't run in my machine. It was PNY PC3 10666 not PC3 8500. Never heard of RAM being too fast! Anyway, after I put the 4BG back in and rebooted the system I noticed the clock was reset. Then I noticed the fans running all the time. Then it would just shut itself off. Each time I was able to reboot the system and seemed to be OK generally. Each reboot seemed to surface more issues. Finally it refused to boot at all.
I thought the disk might have gotten corrupted so I removed it, put it in a portable FW case and took it to my friends place and I used his system to run diskutil. It didn't find any issues.
I then found this thread and was able to boot the system with the "bypass" or debug procedure. I would check the G3Hot line but the pic on the 6th post by Dadioh doesn't look like my MB (no large pads like the photo shows). The system is my main workhorse and aside from the 1TB disk is all original. I have no idea hown many cycles are on the battery, but it charges to 100% most of the time, occasionally only to 96%. I try to hover around the 50% mark. Running Parallels, iTunes and lots of tabs in firefox I generally get around 2.5 to 3 hours of run time.
This thread is so big it's hard to find info in it, like the correct schematic or board layout. The control key is bad on the keyboard so unless the apple bios will work with a USB keybd I can't reset SMC with any key sequence that uses control (it's a pain for terminal work!).
I am a software engineer but my degree is in hardware. Not too long ago I could handle the scale of smc components in use but the technology has surpassed my eyesight and toolset in many cases. The large pads shown in Dadioh's pic would be nice, but I don't have them on my board. I have attached a pic of that area on my system and circled what I think might be the pads in question, tho not like Dadioh's pic. It looks like there's solder mask on them too. If one of these is G3Hot which one?
If anyone could point me to where in this thread I can find a layout & schematic I would be most grateful.I've spent some time searching but 119 pages with a keyword like schematic doesn't help much.
Any clues, advice or things to check would be great too.
Attachments
Last edited:
Hi G Logic,
You can get info on the chip just Google tps51980. If both pads of the caps go to earth just change tps51980 it is a common failure. You should have the 3v and then 5v after you push the button.
regards
south657
Hi motechman,
First you will need the Logic board No. starts 820- located on the board around the fan area.
It would be a good idea to change your key board look on you tube on how to do this. Can get key board on ebay.
Regards
south657
Reply to South657
Could you be more specific? I looked with a magnifier around the fan and could see no bd numbers as you described. Of course if you're talking about the back of the board I don't have xray vision so they're not visible.
Removing the logic bd is a pain. I did actually TOTALLY disassemble the entire unit to see if I could find the control key malfunction but could not. Those are the tiniest little screws, all 79 of them (I have no idea how many there were, but it was a bunch!)
I checked on ebay and found a replacement keybd without the top case for cheap, so I may order that and fix it, but this SMC or other problem is more serious and will get my attention first.
I'm really bummed that issue appears to be rather common and manifests such a broad range of problems. I'm hopeful I'll see the solution to that here. The "bypass" / debug workaround has at least allowed me to boot the system again. It ran all night in sleep without shutting down, and I just woke it up and it seems fine (except the fan runs all the time. I moved the ?PlatformPlugin?.kext file so that makes sense).
Is there any way to tell which 820xxx bd I have from the photo I posted? If I have to remove the logic bd again I will but not just to read bd #. Alternatives to that would be nice to know, since I would need to reassemble after getting the bd # to do further troubleshooting. I have no bench system or jig to run it live outside the unibody frame.
BTW, how likely are these symptoms the cause of a failing battery? It is 4 years old now, and has seen pretty heavy use. I don't know how many charge / discharge cycles are on it, and I get nowhere near 8 or 10 hrs of life on a charge with the way I use it (see my original post), but 2 - 3 hrs seems far from "near death". For the first year or two the system was barely used at all as I had my 17" mbp. But the display went south and I was rather cramped in that 3GB of memory space so I moved the disk to the 13" and carried on.
When this problem occurred on the 13" I thought about buying a new display for the 17" but I don't like the memory limit so decided against it. I may need to revisit that decision if a solution to the problem on the 13" isn't discovered. I run a mobile computer repair service and I need a notebook, so I can't wait forever for a solution to be found.
Could you be more specific? I looked with a magnifier around the fan and could see no bd numbers as you described. Of course if you're talking about the back of the board I don't have xray vision so they're not visible.
Removing the logic bd is a pain. I did actually TOTALLY disassemble the entire unit to see if I could find the control key malfunction but could not. Those are the tiniest little screws, all 79 of them (I have no idea how many there were, but it was a bunch!)
I checked on ebay and found a replacement keybd without the top case for cheap, so I may order that and fix it, but this SMC or other problem is more serious and will get my attention first.
I'm really bummed that issue appears to be rather common and manifests such a broad range of problems. I'm hopeful I'll see the solution to that here. The "bypass" / debug workaround has at least allowed me to boot the system again. It ran all night in sleep without shutting down, and I just woke it up and it seems fine (except the fan runs all the time. I moved the ?PlatformPlugin?.kext file so that makes sense).
Is there any way to tell which 820xxx bd I have from the photo I posted? If I have to remove the logic bd again I will but not just to read bd #. Alternatives to that would be nice to know, since I would need to reassemble after getting the bd # to do further troubleshooting. I have no bench system or jig to run it live outside the unibody frame.
BTW, how likely are these symptoms the cause of a failing battery? It is 4 years old now, and has seen pretty heavy use. I don't know how many charge / discharge cycles are on it, and I get nowhere near 8 or 10 hrs of life on a charge with the way I use it (see my original post), but 2 - 3 hrs seems far from "near death". For the first year or two the system was barely used at all as I had my 17" mbp. But the display went south and I was rather cramped in that 3GB of memory space so I moved the disk to the 13" and carried on.
When this problem occurred on the 13" I thought about buying a new display for the 17" but I don't like the memory limit so decided against it. I may need to revisit that decision if a solution to the problem on the 13" isn't discovered. I run a mobile computer repair service and I need a notebook, so I can't wait forever for a solution to be found.
Last edited:
Hi motechman;
The number is on the side you are looking at, they move it around from year to year it will be on the left hand side from the middle just up
from the ram and as far over to the fan connector and up around the edge of the board by the fan wires. It will be on it for sure.
You need to replace the keyboard so you can do a pram reset you can not do it without that key then that should sort out the fan and
other things that might be rong.
Also changing the battery would be a good idea they are not much. And if you want to speed things up go for SSD drive.
Regards
south657
Hi ZZZac,
Just starting my first 3115-B board are the pads just left of the chip left of SMC?
Its a beer spill have changed U7000 i now have g3hot 12v green and orange with battery 3 & 5 v at the chip will not start LOL
Regards
south657
Just starting my first 3115-B board are the pads just left of the chip left of SMC?
Its a beer spill have changed U7000 i now have g3hot 12v green and orange with battery 3 & 5 v at the chip will not start LOL
Regards
south657
Components responsible for waking up from sleep
Hi
I am working on A1369 Macbook. the issue is, it doesn't wakes up from sleep when the lid is opened. The way to power it back on after going to sleep is to do a SMC reset.
Can any one help me in this regard which component to check for ?
In the schematics i could only see "System (Sleep) LED Circuit" which i guess is for backlit, still i had a check on the behavior on the component it looks like its working fine.
Any help will be appreciated . . . .
Hi
I am working on A1369 Macbook. the issue is, it doesn't wakes up from sleep when the lid is opened. The way to power it back on after going to sleep is to do a SMC reset.
Can any one help me in this regard which component to check for ?
In the schematics i could only see "System (Sleep) LED Circuit" which i guess is for backlit, still i had a check on the behavior on the component it looks like its working fine.
Any help will be appreciated . . . .
Are you pulling my leg? I mean I have looked ALL OVER that board with a high power magnifier and the ONLY numbers I see are the 6T193 to the left of the fan wires. That number in particular came out clear & sharp in the photo attached but the other shots I took of the board don't have that level of clarity on those numbers.
If you could post a pic of 1 or two examples I may be able to spot it, but man I have spent 20 minutes looking and the 6T193 are the only numbers I see, NONE with 800 in them. None.
As for batteries not being much, well, the best price I could find on one was over 60 bucks. There was a time when I didn't think that was much but that time is not not now.
I use a 1TB drive, and as yest there are no SSDs that big. I could go for that hybird 1TB drive, it is a good price, but I'm not that much of a performance hound now. Just don't have the $ for it. I haven't looked into the reliability specs on the hybrids either, so unless their much greater than std drives I don't think I'd go for one. Although $100 for a 1TB hybrid sounds like a fantastic price!
