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username1

macrumors newbie
Feb 6, 2007
3
0
Hi guys,

I'm going to try this on my MBP. Yes i understand the colour issue isnt resolved, but i'll mess around with it and just use windows until we figure it out.

So which screen should i get? From reading the whole topic i came up with the following two:

Samsung LTN154U1-L03 (or -L01)
Toshiba LTD154EZOD

Which do you recomend? It seems at least two people managed to get the samsung one working, and one person got the toshiba one working.

The L03 is the same as the L01 except its a part number for a different fitting. Either fits as we can see from experiances in the forum

So which one should i get?
 

whateverandever

macrumors 6502a
Nov 8, 2006
778
8
Baltimore
Hi guys,

I'm going to try this on my MBP. Yes i understand the colour issue isnt resolved, but i'll mess around with it and just use windows until we figure it out.

So which screen should i get? From reading the whole topic i came up with the following two:

Samsung LTN154U1-L03 (or -L01)
Toshiba LTD154EZOD

Which do you recomend? It seems at least two people managed to get the samsung one working, and one person got the toshiba one working.

The L03 is the same as the L01 except its a part number for a different fitting. Either fits as we can see from experiances in the forum

So which one should i get?

Reading back through all the posts, my memory has indeed failed me. There have been two successes with a Samsung panel. Belldandy and two others have successfully used a Toshiba panel.

So it looks like both of those panels (and one revision off or so) work after a lot of configuring.
 

username1

macrumors newbie
Feb 6, 2007
3
0
Reading back through all the posts, my memory has indeed failed me. There have been two successes with a Samsung panel. Belldandy and two others have successfully used a Toshiba panel.

So it looks like both of those panels (and one revision off or so) work after a lot of configuring.

Yeah thats about what i came up with. It seems all laptop pannels have really slow response times so i don't think there's going to be much between them. I'm going to hunt for a datasheet, otherwise the cheapest i find will make the decision for me!

BTW i found this:

http://www.samsung.com/Products/TFTLCD/Products/Codekey.htm

which seems to suggest L01 is single channel and L02 is dual channel, so then whats L03?!
I think the info there is just too generic and incomplete
 

username1

macrumors newbie
Feb 6, 2007
3
0
Well the only hit on google was at digichip for the samsung screen. To save anyone else registering and trying to download it, here it is.. Its actually the datasheet for the LTN141P1 and NOT the LT154U1.

Anyway it doesnt contain any refresh rate info so i'm sure the similar data sheet for the correct pannel won't be much use to us even if i could find it :(
 

Attachments

  • 409-14486-0-1.pdf
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whateverandever

macrumors 6502a
Nov 8, 2006
778
8
Baltimore
Well the only hit on google was at digichip for the samsung screen. To save anyone else registering and trying to download it, here it is.. Its actually the datasheet for the LTN141P1 and NOT the LT154U1.

Anyway it doesnt contain any refresh rate info so i'm sure the similar data sheet for the correct pannel won't be much use to us even if i could find it :(

I think pretty much all the 1920x1200 screens are running at 56Hz. I'd go for the cheapest you can get between the Samsung and Toshiba.
 

ukp

macrumors member
Feb 9, 2007
36
5
Feeling quite adventurous I today replaced the LCD in my macbook pro (original version) with a Toshiba LTD154EZOD.

I used the guide at fixit and with the help of Faye (who posted earlier in this thread) I have managed 100% success. :)

The only problem I came across was the laptop screen going black everytime I unplugged the dvi to the external monitor.

The solution was in SwitchResX. Go to the Display sets tab, click on "Safe original resolutions" and then edit. Select Color LCD and make sure 1920x1200 x 56hz was selected. Then when unplugging the dvi external monitor, press fn, alt, apple and F11 all at the same time.

Thanks to everyone who has posted to this thread, because I was thinking having to buy a new laptop was the only way for more resolution.
 

whateverandever

macrumors 6502a
Nov 8, 2006
778
8
Baltimore
Feeling quite adventurous I today replaced the LCD in my macbook pro (original version) with a Toshiba LTD154EZOD.

I used the guide at fixit and with the help of Faye (who posted earlier in this thread) I have managed 100% success. :)

The only problem I came across was the laptop screen going black everytime I unplugged the dvi to the external monitor.

The solution was in SwitchResX. Go to the Display sets tab, click on "Safe original resolutions" and then edit. Select Color LCD and make sure 1920x1200 x 56hz was selected. Then when unplugging the dvi external monitor, press fn, alt, apple and F11 all at the same time.

Thanks to everyone who has posted to this thread, because I was thinking having to buy a new laptop was the only way for more resolution.

Good to hear another success story. If I ever get some money again, hopefully I'll get this thing done ;]
 

Faye

macrumors member
Jan 24, 2007
88
0
Well, I wasn't happy with my results.. I wanted rid of SwitchResX.

I've got a 60Hz 1920x1200 mode and it works without SwitchResX running.
I don't know if I needed SwitchResX to make it work initially, because both places I've tested it have run with my previous configuration.

If this file is used as DisplayVendorID-3064/DisplayProductID-5000 then you get n/a for refresh rates.. Which I think means it's recognised as a flat panel.

All anyone using a Tosh LTD154EZOD should need to do in future is put this file in the appropriate place and it should work - that hasn't been tested, It'd be great if someone could:

40022/1552 were the Product and Vendor of my original panel - setting them this way means I keep brightness control.
I have an original MacBook Pro 2GHz, not a C2D.

Code:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
	<key>DisplayProductID</key>
	<integer>40022</integer>
	<key>DisplayProductName</key>
	<string>Color LCD</string>
	<key>DisplayVendorID</key>
	<integer>1552</integer>
	<key>IODisplayEDID</key>
	<data>
	AP///////wAwZABQNjk4NAQOAQOAIRV46k/VnFdLjCcfUFQhCAAxQEVAYUCBQIEAqQCp
	QAEBlEaA0HGwP0AgkKYUS88QAAAYAAAADwAIKBA4ARECER4gCBIAAAAA/gA4VDc0OaEx
	NTRFWjAKAAAA/gDfuaWTdlcoAAIACiAgAOA=
	</data>
	<key>IOGFlags</key>
	<integer>4</integer>
	<key>dmdg</key>
	<data>
	AAAAAg==
	</data>
</dict>
</plist>
 

Soundburst

macrumors 6502a
Oct 4, 2006
691
20
Do you reckon , that when / if apple introduce higher resolution displays you will be able to pay an Apple reseller to install one?
 

Faye

macrumors member
Jan 24, 2007
88
0
Well, I wasn't happy with my results.. I wanted rid of SwitchResX.

I've got a 60Hz 1920x1200 mode and it works without SwitchResX running.
I don't know if I needed SwitchResX to make it work initially, because both places I've tested it have run with my previous configuration.

If this file is used as DisplayVendorID-3064/DisplayProductID-5000 then you get n/a for refresh rates.. Which I think means it's recognised as a flat panel.

All anyone using a Tosh LTD154EZOD should need to do in future is put this file in the appropriate place and it should work - that hasn't been tested, It'd be great if someone could:

40022/1552 were the Product and Vendor of my original panel - setting them this way means I keep brightness control.
I have an original MacBook Pro 2GHz, not a C2D.

Code:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
	<key>DisplayProductID</key>
	<integer>40022</integer>
	<key>DisplayProductName</key>
	<string>Color LCD</string>
	<key>DisplayVendorID</key>
	<integer>1552</integer>
	<key>IODisplayEDID</key>
	<data>
	AP///////wAwZABQNjk4NAQOAQOAIRV46k/VnFdLjCcfUFQhCAAxQEVAYUCBQIEAqQCp
	QAEBlEaA0HGwP0AgkKYUS88QAAAYAAAADwAIKBA4ARECER4gCBIAAAAA/gA4VDc0OaEx
	NTRFWjAKAAAA/gDfuaWTdlcoAAIACiAgAOA=
	</data>
	<key>IOGFlags</key>
	<integer>4</integer>
	<key>dmdg</key>
	<data>
	AAAAAg==
	</data>
</dict>
</plist>

Bumping this. UKP has burned a custom install DVD containing this file, and her macbook installs perfectly without requiring any funky restarts or resets. Installation of a new LTD154EZOD screen should be as simple as copying the above to the appropriate location on your HD, shutting down, swapping screens and powering back up. The only problem with this screen appears to be that the EDID returns incorrect settings for the panel to work properly which is corrected by this overrides file.

Enjoy.


Faye
 

adavid

macrumors newbie
Feb 19, 2007
5
0
Torn

Hi guys,

I have been reading and re-reading this thread over and over again. I have a C2D and the only thing I miss from my Inspiron 8200 is the awesome 1600x1200 screen.

So: as far as I see it, Faye et al have gotten an automagic profile for the Toshiba screen on a CD, whereas jeep as managed to get the Samsung running on a C2D.

Though from the specs the Toshiba is slightly brighter than the Samsung (185 cd/m2 vs 175 cd/m2), the Samsung advertises a much higher contrast ratio (600:1) than the Toshiba (300:1).

I guess I would go with Faye's solution for the Toshiba screen (I can have one more easily than a Samsung), but I would appreciate hints on how to change the IDs so as to have brightness control, since they might be different in my C2D.

Otherwise, Faye, there have been many a comments in the thread on how to solve the brightness problem per se. Did you check those?

Thanks!

ps - Great job all of you!
 

Faye

macrumors member
Jan 24, 2007
88
0
Open the display preferences and select the Color (sic) tab.

Select "Open Profile" on your laptop's display, scroll down the list to "MMOD", click and it will show you the manufacturer and model in hex. The numbers are simply these numbers converted to decimal.

You'll find them inside the /System/Library/Displays/Overrides/DisplayVendorID-<hex manufacturer code>/DisplayProductId-<hex model code> which is the current overrides file for your panel.

Hope that helps?


Faye
 

ukp

macrumors member
Feb 9, 2007
36
5
Thanks Faye, I forgot to post my latest findings to this thread in case they help others.

I made a r/w dmg image of the macbook restore dvd1, then simply made the DisplayVendorID-3064 directory under /System/Library/Display/Overrides/ and put in the file you posted as DisplayProductID-5000.

I then burned the r/w dmg to a dual layer dvd and reinstalled.

I did encounter 2 problems though.

1) The OSX installer didn't copy across my dir+file, so Im assuming there is some sort of filelist the installer uses. So after installing, I had to reboot back to the installer on the dvd, and from the menu, open a terminal and copy the dir+file manully.

2) On booting into OSX for the first time, the fonts were distorted, like they were in 3D. Going into Appearance Preferences seems to fix this instantly, otherwise change the Font Smoothing option to Light.

Other than that, the display works perfectly inc. brightness.

Both WindowsXP and Windows Vista work on the panel, and it was thanks to these OSs that I was able to get a X11 style modeline which helped Faye create the working EDID info.


I've had this panel working for 9 days now, and I just can't imagine going back to a smaller res one. :)
 

adavid

macrumors newbie
Feb 19, 2007
5
0
Open the display preferences and select the Color (sic) tab.

Select "Open Profile" on your laptop's display, scroll down the list to "MMOD", click and it will show you the manufacturer and model in hex.

Thanks Faye, that worked.

For reference, my C2D says "610" for VendorID and "9c60" for DisplayProductID.

Faye: Do you know why you have to have the override "point" to the original profile to get the brightness working?

To all sucessfull: How do you rate the quality of your 1920x1200 panel with respect to the original 1440x900 one? Is it brighter? Is the viewing angle any better?

Thanks in advance.
 

whateverandever

macrumors 6502a
Nov 8, 2006
778
8
Baltimore
Thanks Faye, that worked.

For reference, my C2D says "610" for VendorID and "9c60" for DisplayProductID.

Faye: Do you know why you have to have the override "point" to the original profile to get the brightness working?

To all sucessfull: How do you rate the quality of your 1920x1200 panel with respect to the original 1440x900 one? Is it brighter? Is the viewing angle any better?

Thanks in advance.

I can tell you that the panel is not as bright as the stock Apple panel and the viewing angle isn't as nice either.

But who cares, it's 1920x1200 ;)
 

adavid

macrumors newbie
Feb 19, 2007
5
0
I can tell you that the panel is not as bright as the stock Apple panel and the viewing angle isn't as nice either.

But who cares, it's 1920x1200 ;)

Just making sure I set my expectations right. I've been in hi-dpi heaven and sure as heck want back in :D
 

Faye

macrumors member
Jan 24, 2007
88
0
Faye: Do you know why you have to have the override "point" to the original profile to get the brightness working?

To all sucessfull: How do you rate the quality of your 1920x1200 panel with respect to the original 1440x900 one? Is it brighter? Is the viewing angle any better?

Thanks in advance.

I believe that the AppleBacklight device only kicks in with apple panels it knows about. I have seen that the OS X on x86 people have written a LaptopDisplay.kext which I think might be a way around this.. I just went for the easiest solution, which maybe isn't the "best" but is functional.

It's hard for me to judge brightness. I hardly ever had the old panel above 2 notches on the brightness. I have had the brightness set higher on this one sometimes. I would bear in mind though, that I used the apple inverter and not the dell one and I have the automatic brightness control enabled.

Viewing angle has never really been important to me though. In fact, I'd probably rather a slimmer viewing angle to avoid nosy parkers staring at my screen :)

I've not had any problems sharing movies however.
 

adavid

macrumors newbie
Feb 19, 2007
5
0
About the Toshiba displays

So I was looking for the specs on the Toshiba screen and found at this place that the 0C is a sibling in a family of:

LTD154EZ0C
LTD154EZ0D

LTD154EZ0L
LTD154EZ0S

Now, the problem is that in the Toshiba-Matsushita page only mentions the 0S: 190 cd/m2. I have found out that the 0L is not WUXGA. Could it be that the others are already outdated?

If so, is there any datasheet expert around that could check what the differences are with the C, D and S?
 

adavid

macrumors newbie
Feb 19, 2007
5
0
Viewing angle has never really been important to me though. In fact, I'd probably rather a slimmer viewing angle to avoid nosy parkers staring at my screen :)

Then no one will know that you are a frankenmac ubergeek queen :p

Thanks for the impressions.
 

Faye

macrumors member
Jan 24, 2007
88
0
Always go stealth. I only want my MBP to be desirable to me! :)

Coming soon... 802.11n and larger HD (if I can source the Mac Pro wireless card).


Faye
 

gabba

macrumors newbie
Feb 25, 2007
1
0
17 inch mod

Anyone tried swapping out their 17" 1680 res WSXGA for a 1920 res WUXGA ?

I have an LG LTN170WU lying around... [17" 1920x1200]

Can anyone please photo the LVDS connector of their MacBookPro-17 on the gfx-card side (as opposed to the TFT driverboard side). Please could you photo it with a centremetre or inch ruler next to it, so I can scale it up and see if I have a relevant LVDS connector at hand. I hoard these things. Then we'll all know if the 17" swapout is possible on the hardware-side of things.

I'm thinking about buying a MBP, as I just discovered today that my Go7900GS and my new 2560x1600 external monitor don't love each other too good.

Best regards,
Gabba
 

whateverandever

macrumors 6502a
Nov 8, 2006
778
8
Baltimore
Anyone tried swapping out their 17" 1680 res WSXGA for a 1920 res WUXGA ?

I have an LG LTN170WU lying around... [17" 1920x1200]

Can anyone please photo the LVDS connector of their MacBookPro-17 on the gfx-card side (as opposed to the TFT driverboard side). Please could you photo it with a centremetre or inch ruler next to it, so I can scale it up and see if I have a relevant LVDS connector at hand. I hoard these things. Then we'll all know if the 17" swapout is possible on the hardware-side of things.

I'm thinking about buying a MBP, as I just discovered today that my Go7900GS and my new 2560x1600 external monitor don't love each other too good.

Best regards,
Gabba

As far as I know, noone has tried this mod with 17" MBPs.
 

Faye

macrumors member
Jan 24, 2007
88
0
And those who replaced the panel kept the existing cable too. I wouldn't like to try fitting a new cable, I'm not sure how you would get the cable out... can't remember if that part of the hinge came apart.
 

jrsade

macrumors member
Sep 14, 2006
34
0
Code:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple Computer//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
	<key>DisplayProductID</key>
	<integer>40022</integer>
	<key>DisplayProductName</key>
	<string>Color LCD</string>
	<key>DisplayVendorID</key>
	<integer>1552</integer>
	<key>IODisplayEDID</key>
	<data>
	AP///////wAwZABQNjk4NAQOAQOAIRV46k/VnFdLjCcfUFQhCAAxQEVAYUCBQIEAqQCp
	QAEBlEaA0HGwP0AgkKYUS88QAAAYAAAADwAIKBA4ARECER4gCBIAAAAA/gA4VDc0OaEx
	NTRFWjAKAAAA/gDfuaWTdlcoAAIACiAgAOA=
	</data>
	<key>IOGFlags</key>
	<integer>4</integer>
	<key>dmdg</key>
	<data>
	AAAAAg==
	</data>
</dict>
</plist>

Can this be modified to work with a Samsung LTN154U1-L03?
 
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