Ok, if I may pitch in.
Please bear in mind one thing: with ANY Macro you will need a tripod (...)
This is simply not true. I have been taking macros for 5 years and have never used a tripod. What you will need (if you don't have a studio setup) is control over lighting. This can be anything from the camera's
built in flash to a dedicated
macro ring flash (arachnophobes beware) to an
external flash with a diffuser, or simply
ambient light (provided there's enough of it). You may even use combinations of these options, like
ambient light with fill flash from the camera.
A tripod is only practical (in my experience) in a studio setup, or if you have ample time, space and a non-moving subject in the field. Even then you'd need not only the tripod, which is an added expense, but also a macro focusing rail, preferably one that moves both laterally and towards/away from the subject. My subjects are almost always in places/positions that
don't allow the use of tripods (again, arachnophobes beware).
If you control your own lighting, you can get shots at 1/200, F/10 and ISO 200, like my shot with the diffuser (shown above, at 2:1 magnification). The lighting is key in getting a great shot. If your lighting is bland, it will result in a bland image, no matter how well focused it is. If you have good lighting, then the resulting shot will stand out more. Examples:
Shot with bland lighting.
Shot with better lighting.
Both shots are of the same subject, taken less than a minute apart under different lighting conditions. There is no way I could get a tripod setup to take a shot of something on my living room ceiling.
Regardless of which lens you choose, plan on how you're going to light your subject. That said, one of the most important aspects you should take into consideration when choosing a macro lens is working distance (distance from the subject to the front element of the lens). Shorter lenses (50-60mm) usually have a 10cm working distance, while longer lenses have a greater working distance. My Canon 100mm macro has a working distance of 15 cm alone and ~11 cm when using 68mm of extension tubes. For moving subjects (insects, spiders and the like), I've found that the working distance is great. Any closer and I'd scare them away.