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Canon EOS SLR (film) body suggestions

A

Alexander.Of.Oz

macrumors 68040
Original poster
Oct 29, 2013
3,200
12,503
Howdy All,

There is no "Analog Photography" section, so I post here.

I'm about to embark on a photography course using film and would love to be able to use my current EF mount lenses with the 35mm film camera body I am yet to get.

Any suggestions for a good budget EOS SLR body that I should look at? I was interested primarily in the A2/5 after a precursory search last night. Cheap, good features and I can use my current kit with it. I basically need, focus confirmation, exposure indication and the ability to use my current EF mount lenses. I can't think of anything else and have zero idea really.

Thanks in advance folks, for any assistance offered.

Cheers,
Alex
 
My initial training in photography was in film. Dark rooms. Chemicals. Drugs…er, forget that last one. But yeah, good times.

Unfortunately mate, I've left all that behind me and thus can't help you. I do have a question for you though…

Why?
 
The Bad Guy said:
My initial training in photography was in film. Dark rooms. Chemicals. Drugs…er, forget that last one. But yeah, good times.

Unfortunately mate, I've left all that behind me and thus can't help you. I do have a question for you though…

Why?
Click to expand...

End aim is to be working large format for the image quality and tweaking of images in camera that can't possibly be achieved with any digital camera equipment.

This would just be my first explorations, baby steps really...

Keep in mind that unlike many here, I don't have an unlimited budget to buy all the gadgets, in fact, I am the opposite of that, with a deliberate lifestyle choice of minimalism and simplicity in every regard.

I also have a fascination with wet glass techniques to explore.
 
I don't have an unlimited budget, but I'm sure digital is cheaper than film in the long run. Each click costing about a £1 would soon mean I have to stop shooting. Plus I don't want to print three quarters of what I shoot.
Acearchie still shoots film do might be worth a PM for tips etc.
 
Apple fanboy said:
I don't have an unlimited budget, but I'm sure digital is cheaper than film in the long run. Each click costing about a £1 would soon mean I have to stop shooting. Plus I don't want to print three quarters of what I shoot.
Acearchie still shoots film do might be worth a PM for tips etc.
Click to expand...

We only have to pay a fee for the course and that includes almost unlimited materials and dark-room time!
 
EOS 1 . Single point AF , DX coding , focus confirm , auto-load and advance , aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder. Absolutely state of the art in 1990.Handles like a 5D , 7D body , Probably get a good one for well under $100 . Just make sure all the led's in the viewfinder work . Beat mine up for 15 years before going digital , still works (or it did last September) ,haven't had it out since .
 
someoldguy said:
EOS 1 . Single point AF , DX coding , focus confirm , auto-load and advance , aperture and shutter speed in the viewfinder. Absolutely state of the art in 1990.Handles like a 5D , 7D body , Probably get a good one for well under $100 . Just make sure all the led's in the viewfinder work . Beat mine up for 15 years before going digital , still works (or it did last September) ,haven't had it out since .
Click to expand...

Thanks, old. Is there any benefit to the power booster grip for these vintage of bodies? I won't be using it for anything that requires super fast frame rates like sports. Landscapes and architecture predominately, maybe a touch of macro too.
 
Mostly I shoot landscapes so I never had reason to want one , always thought it made the camera kinda klunky , like a 1D3 .Although I guess if you do lots of shooting with the camera vertical it might be good , but just rotating the body over on a ball head/tripod will do the same thing .
 
Alexander.Of.Oz said:
....
Any suggestions for a good budget EOS SLR body that I should look at? I was interested primarily in the A2/5 after a precursory search last night. Cheap, good features and I can use my current kit with it. I basically need, focus confirmation, exposure indication and the ability to use my current EF mount lenses....
Click to expand...


ANY Canon EOS body will work for you. With a digital camera, the body matters a little bit because sensors are different in different bodies. But with film you get a new "sensor" with every frame. All the film body has to do is hold the lens and open a shutter. All bodies produce truly equal image quality. Don't over-spend

Look at the Rebel series. This one will cost you $16

http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-EOS-Camera-Bodies/1/sku-CE0299902253505?r=FE

That said if you are going to be shooting in manual mode with manual focus you will find it MUCH easier to use a pre-EOS type body that was made for manual focus. But then you'd not be able to use the lenses you have. But big deal you DON'T need them for this class. They will only be a distraction.

Buy a manual film body and a manual focus 50mm lens and NOTHING MORE.
The classic setup for your class would be the Pentax K1000 with a 50mm lens. The setup should sell for about $100 in good condition. the other would be the Nikon FE and the same lens. Both have the potential to outperform an APS-C based Canon dSLR

If yo can help it don't show up to an introductory class with a bag of auto focus zoom lenses.

It might be cost. Get the Canon film body for under $20 or en entire body/lens system for about $120.

Notice that the older manual focus film bodies sell for more money then the Cano EOS film bodies. That is because the older bodies work better. Their ergonomics is designed for manual focus. The lens focus rings n even high end L type Canon lenses are horrible compared to a 1960's vintage Pentax or Nikon.
 
Alexander.Of.Oz said:
End aim is to be working large format for the image quality and tweaking of images in camera that can't possibly be achieved with any digital camera equipment.

This would just be my first explorations, baby steps really...

Keep in mind that unlike many here, I don't have an unlimited budget to buy all the gadgets, in fact, I am the opposite of that, with a deliberate lifestyle choice of minimalism and simplicity in every regard.

I also have a fascination with wet glass techniques to explore.
Click to expand...
Easy way to do wetplate: get an holga and modify it a bit.

Large format is awesome! Have a look at this: https://wanderlustcameras.com

Thought about medium format? Hint: used mamiyas!

I too was reluctant about digital for a long time, but over the last couple of years that has changed.
Otherwise I agree with :apple:fanboy and others that digital in 2014 is cheaper and more convenient.
 
Last edited:
ChrisA said:
ANY Canon EOS body will work for you.

<snip>

It might be cost. Get the Canon film body for under $20 or en entire body/lens system for about $120.

Notice that the older manual focus film bodies sell for more money then the Cano EOS film bodies. That is because the older bodies work better. Their ergonomics is designed for manual focus. The lens focus rings n even high end L type Canon lenses are horrible compared to a 1960's vintage Pentax or Nikon.
Click to expand...

ChrisA, thanks a million for the detailed response! I was concerned with spot metering and focus confirmation, so set my sights on the higher end of the more recent EOS crop. It's great to know I could achieve the same results with a cheap Rebel.

Unfortunately, I am in Australia, working on say a $100 budget for this class, so buying a full manual kit is out of the question, when I have to add $50 or more for the postage. It will be cheapest for me to buy a body that uses my current crop of lenses. The tutors have no issues with this, or suggestions to the contrary.

----------
MCAsan said:
Yes and it full of former canon fim shooters.....far more than you will find on an Apple site. I used to be a regular there before I went M43. ;)
Click to expand...

OK, I'll give it a try, but couldn't find anything yesterday, when I did a quick search for some old threads covering this.

----------
Meister said:
Easy way to do wetplate: get an holga and modify it a bit.

Large format is awesome! Have a look at this: https://wanderlustcameras.com

Thought about medium format? Hint: used mamiyas!

I too was reluctant about digital for a long time, but over the last couple of years that has changed.
Otherwise I agree with :apple:fanboy and others that digital in 2014 is cheaper and more convenient.
Click to expand...

I do architectural and landscapes, mainly long exposures. The Wanderlust as cute and easy to use as it is won't work for me.

Medium format wont cut the mustard either, you don't have the abilities of a true large format technical system. Even my current tilt-shift and full-frame set-up is limited in this regard of photographic creativity.

This is an introductory class to using film for photography, 35mm film bodies are the starting point for all participants. Where we go on to explore, is up to each of us as the course progresses.
 
Alexander.Of.Oz said:
ChrisA, thanks a million for the detailed response! I was concerned with spot metering and focus confirmation, so set my sights on the higher end of the more recent EOS crop. It's great to know I could achieve the same results with a cheap Rebel.
Click to expand...

Why focus confirmation? All EOS cameras will drive your autofocus lenses in AF mode. Canon did make manual focus cameras but they used a different lens mount. You'll find that even that $16 Rebel film body works just like a Full Frame digital body except there is not LCD display on the back. But everything else is the same. Not much new to learn.

You wrote that you mostly shoot subjects that don't move. Then you have time to meter a grey card. If so you don't need a spot meter, just place the card in the same light as the subject and get close so the card fills the frame.

Before there was digital EVERY photograph was "corrected" in post processing. The printer machines in the drugs stores measured the negative density and corrected the shot by adjusting the exposure time on the print. People who did their own prints in a darkroom adjusted both the exposure AND contrast EVERY time. I'd say that film forces you to post process every frame.

35mm is to much like digital. If I go back to film it will be 4x5 film. Then I will scan it. I don't see much reason to go back to making wet chemistry prints.
 
ChrisA said:
Why focus confirmation? All EOS cameras will drive your autofocus lenses in AF mode. Canon did make manual focus cameras but they used a different lens mount. You'll find that even that $16 Rebel film body works just like a Full Frame digital body except there is not LCD display on the back. But everything else is the same. Not much new to learn.

You wrote that you mostly shoot subjects that don't move. Then you have time to meter a grey card. If so you don't need a spot meter, just place the card in the same light as the subject and get close so the card fills the frame.

Before there was digital EVERY photograph was "corrected" in post processing. The printer machines in the drugs stores measured the negative density and corrected the shot by adjusting the exposure time on the print. People who did their own prints in a darkroom adjusted both the exposure AND contrast EVERY time. I'd say that film forces you to post process every frame.

35mm is to much like digital. If I go back to film it will be 4x5 film. Then I will scan it. I don't see much reason to go back to making wet chemistry prints.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned initially, I have zero knowledge of film and what is required, so was obsessed with the idea that I had to have focus confirmation as something in the camera body I go with.

After your assistance and a fair amount of research today, I am now looking at some old Russian Leica rangefinder copies! With a 35, 50 and 85mm lens combination I would be covered for what I love to capture. Cheaper, just as good, if not better and with more character than what I was initially thinking I had to go with. Still available for within my price range too!

I did think about the metering off a grey card this morning after reading that in a forum on my travels of researching it all further.

Thanks again for your assistance, Chris.

After reading the course admission details, I have discovered it can be any type of camera that uses 35mm film and has manual adjustments for focus, aperture and shutter.
 
Ebay is full of old Eos bodies. Probably one of the best (for the price / last produced) is the Eos 3 - failing that the Eos33 is a more consumer version of the 3.

The Film eos camera numbering is the same is the digital range, the smaller the number - the better the model.
 
Kebabselector said:
Ebay is full of old Eos bodies. Probably one of the best (for the price / last produced) is the Eos 3 - failing that the Eos33 is a more consumer version of the 3.

The Film eos camera numbering is the same is the digital range, the smaller the number - the better the model.
Click to expand...

I spent most of the weekend scouring fleabay and many photographic forums, eventually settling upon an old and fully working Pentax ME Super with a 50mm lens for $20! Allowing me enough to grab a macro lens and a 28mm wide angle too. More than enough to start the first leg of the course with, it goes for a whole year and I pick up an extra stream of subjects on more advanced film techniques next year, which is where I will start exploring a technical large format set-up.
 
Alexander.Of.Oz said:
I spent most of the weekend scouring fleabay and many photographic forums, eventually settling upon an old and fully working Pentax ME Super with a 50mm lens for $20! Allowing me enough to grab a macro lens and a 28mm wide angle too. More than enough to start the first leg of the course with, it goes for a whole year and I pick up an extra stream of subjects on more advanced film techniques next year, which is where I will start exploring a technical large format set-up.
Click to expand...

The Pentax ME Super is a lovely, very portable (because of its small size for a SLR), user-friendly yet solidly built camera; I had one as my first SLR in the mid 80s and absolutely loved it.
 
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