Partial Success!
I've managed to get iCloud calendars working in iCal (Snow Leopard) using the info provided above, but not contacts in Address Book.
In iCal, I just added a new CalDAV account, used my iCloud login info (full email address as username) and for the server I used (no https or anything) p02-caldav.icloud.com. It did a search of some kind, and asked me to choose between a Google account(!) and p02-caldav.icloud.com, so I picked the iCloud one and it worked!
When I went into the Server Settings for that account, it had filled in the Server Path itself with /{uniqueID}/principal/ and port was set to auto, SSL was ticked.
It syncs everything with my iPad and the web app, even the reminders.
So, I tried with the contacts too, first doing the same (just basic server info) and no luck, so I tried the full server address given above, but still no good. It also fills in some server info, but it doesn't look right, and clearly doesn't work. Annoying!
Finally, I added the calDav account again using p07 instead of p02, and it worked too, so I don't know if the number actually matters.