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Old Mar 28, 2012, 03:09 PM   #451
cmdrdata
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peislander View Post
No voltage at pin14(CHGR-ACOK) of u7000(ISL6258A) What supplies the 3.3v for chgr-acok??? I know all my Q6910 may have been bad but not sure.
Could it be Q6910 that supplies the 3.3?Thanks
Nope, PP3V3_S5_SMC is actually the same as G3HOT named PP3V42_G3H_REG (see p8-D1). If you look at p40-D4, you see that CHGR_ACOK is the same as SMC_BC_ACOK. Thus not seeing any voltage at U7000-14 is the same as p-channel Q6910 not getting SMC_BC_ACOK. If your G3HOT is OK, then I'd investigate why the ACOK signal does not rise up to G3HOT level. Perhaps the pull up resistor R5087 in p40-C1 is burned? I recall papabear had to replace the I2L pull-up resistors on one of his bad board.

Last edited by cmdrdata; Mar 28, 2012 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2012, 06:00 AM   #452
peislander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmdrdata View Post
Nope, PP3V3_S5_SMC is actually the same as G3HOT named PP3V42_G3H_REG (see p8-D1). If you look at p40-D4, you see that CHGR_ACOK is the same as SMC_BC_ACOK. Thus not seeing any voltage at U7000-14 is the same as p-channel Q6910 not getting SMC_BC_ACOK. If your G3HOT is OK, then I'd investigate why the ACOK signal does not rise up to G3HOT level. Perhaps the pull up resistor R5087 in p40-C1 is burned? I recall papabear had to replace the I2L pull-up resistors on one of his bad board.
Well back to where I started.I was checking voltage on u7000 & I shorted it & D7010.Replaced them & board will work again on battery & stay running if I hook power cord & take battery out.It won't power with just cord or won't charge.
I noticed R7060 was 2.137k & should be 57.6k.I pulled it off but it measures good.I get 3.43v on one side & only .11 on other side.Dam pull down logic.
Got the backlight working on the other board (thanks to Dadioh's other thread).R7060 is also not reading correct on board but tested good off board.Just gotta get it to work with power cord & maybe get sound working.
Cheers

Update:The first board will charge very slowly but the magsafe is still dim green.It still won't power up without a good battery.It doesn't recognize its plugged in.System properties said its running on battery power but shows percent & how long remaining till i'm guessing full charge.At least it will work with power cord kinda.I'll just leave this for now till I learn lots more from experimenting with my other boards.
Back to the other board that heats u7000 when plugged in & oh yea its got no sound.Fix it or f_ _k it.Ha!Ha!

Last edited by peislander; Apr 8, 2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: update
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Old Apr 4, 2012, 11:39 AM   #453
jugger18
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I finally dug back into my trouble a1342 board. I have it in the topcase, back cover off (in this config I have access to board jump spot). The weirdness i am seeing is it will take 1-5 tries to get the board to start off the jumpers. Then once I pull the power and plug it back in it will not jumpstart. If i then unplug it, take a toothbrush with a bit of iso alc rub around the general area of the jumppads, let it dry, plug it in...it will then boot. I can also sometimes get it to boot with the actual power button as well.
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Old Apr 5, 2012, 10:17 PM   #454
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A new victim. Picked up a 13' Macbook pro that sustained milk damage. Cleaned the board. Known good ac adapter. Lights up, charges the battery (according to lights on side, and plug light). 3.4v at the jump pad. will not power on....although once it did when i bumped one of the plugs (the video cable that plugs in near the fan). Any ideas?
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Old Apr 6, 2012, 02:02 AM   #455
Megatron1
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MBP 13 2010 Won't Boot No Magsafe Light

Hi To All on the Thread:
I just wanted to start off to say thanks to all who have posted all this valuable info about Logic Board repairs on this thread. I am a first timer on logic board repair as well. I have a MBP 13 2010 that will not boot and the magsafe light does not appear. I have tested a good logic board on to the chassis with another dc in board as well to negate those parts from fault. I have noticed a component had blown in the left yellow arrow indicated in the pic. Also in the pic the component which the right arrow is directed, the pin was only reading 1.4V.Which is shouldn't be. I was wondering is it just the blown component that is affecting the voltage reading on the chip, or are they both faulty components. Sorry about the pic, it was taken from ifixit.
Thank you much appreciated.
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Old Apr 6, 2012, 06:44 AM   #456
Richard-m
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Unable to read MCP 0 Die temperature sensor

I thought I would post a solution to a problem I have been trying to diagnose for weeks.
A Macbook Pro Mid 2010 2.66 was displaying these symptoms:
a. Battery would not charge
b. No battery charge indicator lights when side button pressed.
c. Would not power on from battery alone, needed charger connected, but would continue to run if charger removed.
d. Within 10-20 sec of power on, fan would go to max speed and processes in Activity Monitor showed kernel_task taking 180% of CPU (kernel panic!) Machine would run VERY slowly.
e. Battery, charger and DC board known to be good from swap-outs in other machines.
f. Apple diagnostics report "Unable to read MCP 0 Die temperature sensor".

After many hours checking fuses, charging voltages, temperature sensor voltages, and finding no obvious fault I removed all cables and discovered the cause: the 922-9061 Sleep Sensor and Battery charge indicator. Disconnecting this, the machine performed perfectly, so I have a replacement charge indicator assembly on order. It was such a weird set of symptoms for the cause!
Hope it helps someone.
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Old Apr 6, 2012, 09:55 PM   #457
jugger18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger18 View Post
A new victim. Picked up a 13' Macbook pro that sustained milk damage. Cleaned the board. Known good ac adapter. Lights up, charges the battery (according to lights on side, and plug light). 3.4v at the jump pad. will not power on....although once it did when i bumped one of the plugs (the video cable that plugs in near the fan). Any ideas?
Well good news with a bit of bad news. Gave the board a iso bath and cleaned every spot of milk residue I could find. Put it back in the case.
Power button = no boot.
Jump pads = no boot.
gnd/pin 5of keyboard connector = good boot all the way into os.

Once in the os basically no keys work (only the volume down so far). Trackpad works for movement but actually clicking does not. Next step is to figure out a good way to clean the keyboard...any ideas here?
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Old Apr 7, 2012, 04:36 AM   #458
peislander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger18 View Post
Well good news with a bit of bad news. Gave the board a iso bath and cleaned every spot of milk residue I could find. Put it back in the case.
Power button = no boot.
Jump pads = no boot.
gnd/pin 5of keyboard connector = good boot all the way into os.

Once in the os basically no keys work (only the volume down so far). Trackpad works for movement but actually clicking does not. Next step is to figure out a good way to clean the keyboard...any ideas here?
Did you try unplugging the keyboard & then try to power up with the jump pads?Maybe keyboard is stopping it from powering with jump pads.
I've put a few keyboards in the dishwasher on rinse cycle to clean the sticky off.Then I blow them out with compressed air & let dry for a couple days.This will only get the sticky out.It won't bring a dead keyboard back to life.So I think you may need a new keyboard.Cheers

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Megatron1 View Post
Hi To All on the Thread:
I just wanted to start off to say thanks to all who have posted all this valuable info about Logic Board repairs on this thread. I am a first timer on logic board repair as well. I have a MBP 13 2010 that will not boot and the magsafe light does not appear. I have tested a good logic board on to the chassis with another dc in board as well to negate those parts from fault. I have noticed a component had blown in the left yellow arrow indicated in the pic. Also in the pic the component which the right arrow is directed, the pin was only reading 1.4V.Which is shouldn't be. I was wondering is it just the blown component that is affecting the voltage reading on the chip, or are they both faulty components. Sorry about the pic, it was taken from ifixit.
Thank you much appreciated.
I believe the part on the left is a fuse for the backlight.Replace that & go from there.Google "no backlight macbook pro" & check out Dadioh's other thread on this sight.It will tell you what it is & where to order it.Good luck
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Old Apr 7, 2012, 07:17 AM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jugger18 View Post
Well good news with a bit of bad news. Gave the board a iso bath and cleaned every spot of milk residue I could find. Put it back in the case.
Power button = no boot.
Jump pads = no boot.
gnd/pin 5of keyboard connector = good boot all the way into os.

Once in the os basically no keys work (only the volume down so far). Trackpad works for movement but actually clicking does not. Next step is to figure out a good way to clean the keyboard...any ideas here?
As PEIslander said. You can get the sticky out but I don't think you will get the keyboard working. Check for a replacement keyboard on eBay. How does the backlight look? Often liquid spills mess that up too so you may want to get a new keyboard and backlight. Replacing the keyboard is tedious with about half a million screws the size of pepper flecks but it just takes patience. Recommend you magnetize the screwdriver.
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Old Apr 7, 2012, 10:24 AM   #460
jugger18
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[QUOTE=peislander;14681187]Did you try unplugging the keyboard & then try to power up with the jump pads?Maybe keyboard is stopping it from powering with jump pads.
I've put a few keyboards in the dishwasher on rinse cycle to clean the sticky off.Then I blow them out with compressed air & let dry for a couple days.This will only get the sticky out.It won't bring a dead keyboard back to life.So I think you may need a new keyboard.Cheers[COLOR="#808080"]

----------
I did it out of the case as well with the same results (no kb attached).
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Old Apr 7, 2012, 10:50 AM   #461
jugger18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dadioh View Post
As PEIslander said. You can get the sticky out but I don't think you will get the keyboard working. Check for a replacement keyboard on eBay. How does the backlight look? Often liquid spills mess that up too so you may want to get a new keyboard and backlight. Replacing the keyboard is tedious with about half a million screws the size of pepper flecks but it just takes patience. Recommend you magnetize the screwdriver.
As to the backlight I would say incomplete. It is lit up nice and strong right in the middle (fghtyvbn) but out towards the sides it does not light up at all. I thin a new keyboard or top case might be in order. Anyone selling one cheaper than ebay?
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Old Apr 8, 2012, 02:08 PM   #462
Cynic
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Hi

I have a late 2011 macbook pro (21 weeks old) that has been soaked (and sat in water for some period of time). It was used only twice (showing just 2 cycles on the battery..)

I have cleaned it and now it will boot normally, but you must hold the power button down until the 'notification/power' light flashes on and off. If you release it then, it works fine. If you release it before then it will turn off. It also blips full on briefly when you plug the a/c. However the kernel uses 300% of the CPU when in O/S. This isn't an issue in safe mode though and everything functions. (suspect software?). The kernel doesn't use 300% of cpu when booting in SMC bypass though.

However, after a period of time the laptop shuts itself off and the battery will not charge. The battery gives out about 3v on some pins, and nothing on others. The fuse seems fine (12.5v both sides). Says 'replace now' in o/s.

There was clearly a short on the white fuse near the battery as there was some discolouration. It doesn't seem to have caused a problem though (?). I see 12.5 on both sides of it. It wont function if I remove the fuse.

Anybody have ideas where to start isolating the issue? This board has taken a pretty bad beating and I'm at a loss where to go next!


Many thanks in advance.
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 11:17 AM   #463
sa7an
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hey guys, i have a MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2010 2.4ghz that had liquid damage. once i cleaned the residue up with denatured alcohol it would boot with the lcd and backlight working but kernel panic while loading to any OS. i then sent it for a session in my ultrasonic cleaner (which does sweep frequency so to not damage pcb's) in a solution of 95% distilled water (with no additives) and 5% pcb cleaning solution (specified from the ultrasonic cleaner manufacturer for this specific use) at 65 degrees C for 10 minutes. after pulling the board out and letting it cool back down to around room temp i washed it in pure distilled water and then a denatured alcohol bath for 5 minutes to get all of the water off the board. after letting it sit and "dry" for about a day and a half i reassembled the laptop. it now is 100% stable but the lcd nor backlight function. system info does not list a internal display as attached, but the isight bluetooth and wifi work. i have tried another display and recieve the same issue. the fuse tests out fine on the board. i will post pictures once they finish uploading...

thanks in advance
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 07:25 AM   #464
peislander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sa7an View Post
hey guys, i have a MacBook Pro 13" Mid 2010 2.4ghz that had liquid damage. once i cleaned the residue up with denatured alcohol it would boot with the lcd and backlight working but kernel panic while loading to any OS. i then sent it for a session in my ultrasonic cleaner (which does sweep frequency so to not damage pcb's) in a solution of 95% distilled water (with no additives) and 5% pcb cleaning solution (specified from the ultrasonic cleaner manufacturer for this specific use) at 65 degrees C for 10 minutes. after pulling the board out and letting it cool back down to around room temp i washed it in pure distilled water and then a denatured alcohol bath for 5 minutes to get all of the water off the board. after letting it sit and "dry" for about a day and a half i reassembled the laptop. it now is 100% stable but the lcd nor backlight function. system info does not list a internal display as attached, but the isight bluetooth and wifi work. i have tried another display and recieve the same issue. the fuse tests out fine on the board. i will post pictures once they finish uploading...

thanks in advance
How does the lcd connector look on the mobo?I fixed one yesterday that would display on external but didn't seem to recognize the internal display was attached.Brightness up or down meter didn't come up on external display.I would check 4th pin over from the right as that seemed to be where the damage was on my board.After re-soldering the pins in that area my display works as it should.My board was a non Pro unibody so the pin config maybe different.If that's not your problem you may want to check out Dadioh's other great thread about no backlight.Good Luck
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 09:03 AM   #465
sa7an
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Originally Posted by peislander View Post
How does the lcd connector look on the mobo?I fixed one yesterday that would display on external but didn't seem to recognize the internal display was attached.Brightness up or down meter didn't come up on external display.I would check 4th pin over from the right as that seemed to be where the damage was on my board.After re-soldering the pins in that area my display works as it should.My board was a non Pro unibody so the pin config maybe different.If that's not your problem you may want to check out Dadioh's other great thread about no backlight.Good Luck
looks fine as far as i can tell, also the lcd panel is off it not only no backlight. the system does not see an internal display connected.


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Old Apr 12, 2012, 09:08 AM   #466
peislander
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Rescued from the dead

Just thought I'd post a success story on a 13 inch A1278 Non Pro aluminum Unibody that I fixed yesterday.The laptop had liquid damage & after cleaning would only turn on for a second or two with battery only then turn off.Dim green light on magsafe.It didnt seem to recognize if the Ram was installed or not.Most of the damage was around U7300(TPS5116).I replaced it & it would turn on & stay running & beep with no memory installed..Yea! Here's the other problems it had & how I fixed them.

No internal display or backlight.--resoldered around 4th pin from right on lcd connector on MoBo as there seemed to be a bit of damage in that area.
No charge or green light on magsafe--Replaced u6915 & q6910 as they tested bad.Pin 5 of u6915 was at 3.7 ohms.
No wireless----Replaced L3404 as it was reading like 350 oms & should have been like 2 ohms.
I even replaced the keyboard lock down clip that someone ripped off.
Its 100 percent working thanks to this & Dadioh's other thread.
Thanks everyone
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 09:19 AM   #467
peislander
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Originally Posted by sa7an View Post
looks fine as far as i can tell, also the lcd panel is off it not only no backlight. the system does not see an internal display connected.

Image
Image
Zooming in on your first pic --4th pin from left looks a little redish & less solder then other pins.I didn't think mine was very bad till I looked closer with a loop. I couldn't believe it actually fixed it cause it didn't look that bad.Good luck
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 01:42 PM   #468
sa7an
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Originally Posted by peislander View Post
Zooming in on your first pic --4th pin from left looks a little redish & less solder then other pins.I didn't think mine was very bad till I looked closer with a loop. I couldn't believe it actually fixed it cause it didn't look that bad.Good luck
got a fine tip iron and added a tiny tiny amount of solder to that pin and touched each of the other pins to make sure they had a soldered connection. still no internal display but in system info it doesn't even list "internal display: none"
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 03:45 PM   #469
peislander
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got a fine tip iron and added a tiny tiny amount of solder to that pin and touched each of the other pins to make sure they had a soldered connection. still no internal display but in system info it doesn't even list "internal display: none"
Sorry I don't know where else to check.Maybe someone else with more experience will chime in & give you some ideas where to check.
Cheers
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 09:58 PM   #470
cmdrdata
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Originally Posted by peislander View Post
Sorry I don't know where else to check.Maybe someone else with more experience will chime in & give you some ideas where to check.
Cheers
On page 18 of the MBP 13" schematic posted earlier, there is a signal called MCP_HDMI_HPD. This is how the MCP detects the presence of flat panel display. It is derived from pin2 of the LCD connector, which is then gated thru a pair FETs Q9441 (see p68). Location wise, I don't have a clue. Also there is a fuse that protect power going to the display (see p70, F9800).
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 04:00 PM   #471
AEEA
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Hey people, i have this macbook pro 13 mid 2009, liquid damage.
Here is what happen, after the liquid damage it worked, but then someone decided to clean it, after it took the logic board out, and cleaned it and put it back in, he broke two connectors, the one for fan and the one for speakers. Now the charger is green, sometimes dim light sometimes bright, but i keep hearing a beeping sound that doesn't stop it comes from the logicboard but i can't determine where exactly, but today i discovered this when i short two pins that are near the cable connector, something strange happens. The beeping stops, but then i hear like the machine wanna start its a strange noise.

The beeping is constant, no stopping When i short these two pins, sometimes the green light on the charger restarts. Also i disconnected all the cables, but same thing, i also tried without ram and with one module and second module, same thing.

Last edited by AEEA; Apr 15, 2012 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 05:28 AM   #472
Mori3000
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Hi to all,

please some help,

I have got a MBP 13 2010 which is water damaged, i got it on friday, at the begining i tried to start it, the board started but i got a sound like when we have no ram installed on the board, i tried twice and it was the same thing.

I opened the back of the MBP and there was still water inside close to the Ram conector.

I cleaned the board and dry it carefully and the result is:

When i try to power up the MBP does not happen any thing, if i connect the charger to it, the logic board starts directly but not fully, nothing on the screen, no chiming, but it starts charging the battery and the fan run (after about 10 secondes comes onhigh speed ).

I can turn it off by holding the power button, but i can not turn it on from the power button at all, just if i disconnect and connect the charger so it starts again in the same way (if i pull out the battery it would not start even by connecting the charger.

more info is i have 4.8v on the G3HOT line when the MBP is on.

I appreciate all advice

Thanks
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:46 AM   #473
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Hi to all,

please some help,

I have got a MBP 13 2010 which is water damaged, i got it on friday, at the begining i tried to start it, the board started but i got a sound like when we have no ram installed on the board, i tried twice and it was the same thing.

I opened the back of the MBP and there was still water inside close to the Ram conector.

I cleaned the board and dry it carefully and the result is:

When i try to power up the MBP does not happen any thing, if i connect the charger to it, the logic board starts directly but not fully, nothing on the screen, no chiming, but it starts charging the battery and the fan run (after about 10 secondes comes onhigh speed ).

I can turn it off by holding the power button, but i can not turn it on from the power button at all, just if i disconnect and connect the charger so it starts again in the same way (if i pull out the battery it would not start even by connecting the charger.

more info is i have 4.8v on the G3HOT line when the MBP is on.

I appreciate all advice

Thanks
Never try to power on the system after a liquid spill and the first thing to do is remove the battery pack, if possible. Then later, after you are sure they have dried up internally (maybe days later), it can be tried. Personally, I'd take them apart and clean it up first before trying to power it up again.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 10:56 AM   #474
peislander
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2009 MBP 2.26 820-2530a Logic board difference

Hi
I got a couple 820-2530a boards here with a bit different lay out.I included a pic that I hope some one can help identify where & what resistors belong.I believe there was only 2 resistors there but I started taking resistors off my parts board to replace what I thought were missing resistors.After doing more trouble shooting I noticed a few more parts installed on board in question that were not on my parts board or another 820-2530a board that I have.I took the resistors off that I thought I installed but I think I screwed up again.
If any one has a board with only 2 resistors in the section where I have marked Please tell me if mine are in the right spot & what the resistance is.I included another pic just to show all the resistors on my other boards.
There must have been a new run of these boards or something.Just my luck
Thanks for any replies
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 05:46 PM   #475
cmdrdata
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peislander View Post
Hi
I got a couple 820-2530a boards here with a bit different lay out.I included a pic that I hope some one can help identify where & what resistors belong.I believe there was only 2 resistors there but I started taking resistors off my parts board to replace what I thought were missing resistors.After doing more trouble shooting I noticed a few more parts installed on board in question that were not on my parts board or another 820-2530a board that I have.I took the resistors off that I thought I installed but I think I screwed up again.
If any one has a board with only 2 resistors in the section where I have marked Please tell me if mine are in the right spot & what the resistance is.I included another pic just to show all the resistors on my other boards.
There must have been a new run of these boards or something.Just my luck
Thanks for any replies
It is NOT a good idea to just install component in a printed circuit board where none was installed previously. Apple may have changed the design slightly, but still using the same "base" circuit board and thus the pad in question may or may not use the component seen in similar board(s). If you do that, it may change the system behavior (for example, there is already a parallel component somewhere else, and adding a resistor may change the value of the combined part) thus changing the voltage level that other integrated circuit may detect. Don't do it.
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