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First investment lenses for Canon DSLR?
Howdy All,
I have an 1100D/T3 that I'll be keeping a while longer yet and I'm looking at buying my first serious investment lenses soon. Around the middle of next year I plan on getting a 7D or its MkII. Much later I may move up to full frame for larger print capabilities. My query is whether to be buying full frame glass now with the cropped body and what type of lenses would you folks suggest? I'm looking at using my lenses for architectural, landscape, panoramas, the occasional building interior, lane-ways, night and low-light shots too. I almost always use a tripod now, so fast aperture speeds are not really that necessary. I'm not interested in portraiture. I've got the 50mm f/1.8 already and am very happy with its picture quality for the price. My initial thought was the EF 24-105mm f4L IS USM to get the ball rolling. Will this be wide enough on the crop body for architecture and landscapes though? Should I look at getting either the EF-S 10-22 f/3.5-4.5 USM or the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 as well, so as to cover the really wide end of the spectrum well? Thanks for your assistance. John
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I would recommend purchasing full frame lenses in anticipation of moving to full frame, but don't let that stop you from getting highly useful EF-s lenses like the 10-22 along the way. I took this approach and recently moved to full frame, and shortly afterward a friend asked about whether I'd be interested in selling my 10-22. I did have to get the 17-40 after moving up to full frame to replace the 10-22, but otherwise everything has worked out nicely. Getting the 17-40 in advance of moving to full frame would have been limiting on a crop sensor, as there is a huge difference between 10mm and 17mm in that format. As for the 24-105, I found the 24 end to be fine for landscapes on a crop sensor, it's just not enough for massively wide landscapes (that's where the 10-22 would come in). One expensive alternative for going wide would be to get the 14mm f/2.8L which would be amazing on both a crop sensor and full frame sensor camera... it's a pricy investment though that may not resell as quickly because it's more of a niche lens.
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Spec's like the following abound...
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YouTube is not the resurrection of Dada
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Don't invest another dime in EF-S glass...even if the 10-22 lens is a good one.
Consider: 17-40 24-105 or 24-70 100-400 those 3 lenses will do most anything. If you want to add a 4th lens, go for the 100L macro (which does excellent portrait work). For a nice cost reduction, get refurbished lenses from Canon USA. Those L lenses will of course work on a FF or cropped sensor body.
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Used 24-70 or 17-55 f/2.8.
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Hi John,
I can't comment on the specific Canon lens selection but, IMO, go for the full frame lenses. I know from your posts here at MR that you have a genuine passion for photography. That passion will wax and wane over the years but overall, will last a lifetime. Based on your shooting needs, you don't need the extra zoom boost from an APS-C sensor but the FF will give you unbelievable results in low-light. As already mentioned, don't make a decision based on print size as any of the current line-up will produce huge prints. Base it on overall performance. If it was me, I would be looking at FF lenses, thinking about holding on to that 1100D a bit longer and saving my pennies as I can see that the price gap between APS-C and FF is narrowing significantly. Peter |
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15"MBP 2.66 i7 8GB; iPod Classic; iPhone5; Canon 5DIII w/24-105 f4L & 4 lenses "You can observe a lot by just watching"-Yogi Berra ![]() florcortese.smugmug.com |
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![]() I've been having a poke around B&H's site in the used section and they are a little cheaper. I'm waiting on a response from CanonUSA as to whether I can buy from them here in Oz, there's some bargains to be had there too. Quote:
I am hoping that the next version of the 7D is a drastic lift in dynamic range for Canon, if not, there's still the ability to use bracketed shots with Phras's masking techniques for even greater DR! ![]() Quote:
We'll have to wait and see what features are limited to meet this target...I was most impressed by your lowlight shots a few weeks ago. I took some shots yesterday in the lounge without lights during an overcast afternoon of our dogs playing together. The camera was at ISO 1600, with a shutter speed of 1/500, using my 50mm f/1.8 lens and there was so much noise it really was unacceptable for me to have the pictures anywhere above 500 pixels wide! I did get some great candid shots of them looking all psychotic though! I'll come back to this later with the flash used remotely and compare the difference, I couldn't be bothered getting it out yesterday. Quote:
I guess I can wait a while till I have the full frame body for the really wide architectural and landscape single shots. In the mean time I can always stitch together a panorama with the panoramic head that's coming... I did spot a couple of tilt shift lenses for about $1k yesterday in Canons refurbished section, that's very tempting for later on! ![]() Thanks to you all for your input it really is appreciated. Now to work out which two first. I'm leaning to the 17-40 and the 24-105 to get the ball rolling.
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It all depends on what you want to do. What focal length do you want or need? Do you need fast primes or are f/4 zooms OK - and related to that: are you thinking about going to full frame later because of image quality concerns (negligible in my opinion) or because of depth-of-field consideration (really the most important aspect about full frame)?
If these questions make sense to you then you're probably close to your answers. If not so much then I would do more research and try things out before investing in anything else. But I'll say this: having a fast 50 or 35mm lens can be a life altering experience - and may become costly down the road. ---------- Quote:
If you don't care about any of this you'll certainly get pretty decent build and optical quality there. But honestly, f/4 on a crop camera for that kind of money will not get you the results for which people still drag around big expensive SLRs. You might as well get one of the nice little Sonys or other APS-C mirrorless cameras with a good quality zoom.
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Like everybody has mentioned! Go invest in lenses that will work with full frame. I had a T3 for about almost 2 years but I just recently purchased a Mark 2 thanks to Black Friday deals and Im glad that the three out of my four lenses work with it (18-55mm that came with my T3 is the only exception). Good thing I thought about the future rather than the present when I bought my lenses for the T3.
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![]() Check out this cool tool which allows you to play with crop sensor and full frame, f stop, focal length, subject placements, background distances to actually see the results in action. Subject 1 at 1 metre, subject 2 at 4 metres, focal length at 50mm, f/4, background at 10m seems ok to me using the 7D as a body. When you change to the 5DII the background does get creamier, but I have no problem with the 7D's results. If you read my initial post, you will ascertain what I enjoy shooting.
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The 24-105L is a very good all purpose lens to start with. I also planned to go full frame but the 5DII was not good enough for action fast AF (or only with the center AF field). In anticipation of an improved version I started with the 7D. The 24-105 served me well. When I finally upgraded to the 5DIII I found that the 24-105 became much better (sharper), even in the corners. It is no contest to the 70-200L II f/2.8 that I also have now, but this thing is too heavy to have with me all the time. With full frame I also found that for me 24mm is wide enough that I didn't yet realize my old plan to get the 17-40 or 16-35.
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I really don't understand why people are so keen to use the word 'investment' with camera gear. It is a really inaccurate use of the word and feels like people are kidding themselves that blowing lots of cash is somehow a wise move rather than just fun.
Rant over. I'd go for the 17-40 L. A great lens at a good price that is wide enough for the uses you mention, full-frame future proof and should hold some value if you ever want to sell it.
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Commercial Photographer www.steveashdown.com |
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The shots I believe you're referring to were tripod mount timed exposures of static subjects at ISO 100 (or close to it). This is something you can do with any body and lens set-up. The combination of the huge FF sensor, lens stabilization and a sufficiently large aperture does provide the opportunity for awesome low-light capture without flash...just not like the shots you're referring to. |
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Before you buy the Canon lenses take a look at the latest Sigma 24 - 70 and 70 - 200 F2.8. Their quality is almost indistinguishable from the equivalent Canon's at half the price. And yes don't bother with the EF-S lenses ...
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Glad to see you're doing the research. You're first statement is correct but you have to take into account what that means in real life. Basically that statement means: yeah, it's kind of the same as long as you change all other parameters. And then there is the (overused) term "bokeh" referring to blur quality vs just the amount of blur. It gets a little esoteric at times so I'd be careful with some of the "bokeh" talk. And it may simply be not important to what you do. For me it's about isolation and I find the 24-105 f/4 to be borderline even at 105 and on full frame. On crop it would look worse because you have to move back for the same framing - more like 5.6 or worse. Still better than a point and shoot but no advantage over any of the mirrorless APS-C cameras that are cheaper. If you're looking still for a recommendation: I'd go with a 24-70 2.8 version 1 and/or a the "best" 35mm or 50mm lens you can afford without going crazy. But that's also my bias. I prefer not leaving the house without my 50 1.2 and 135 2.0 and often that's all I bring. Or even just the 50L on my 5DII.
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iPhone 5, iPod classic 160gbDell PC; IBM ThinkPad T60 laptop Last edited by 7enderbender; Dec 16, 2012 at 11:05 AM. |
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Oh and if youre looking to go second hand, http://photography-on-the.net/forum/ is also a great place to look.
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#21 |
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C
You can do an awful lot with the 24-105. Stick it on a Mark II/III, and you can print 5'x5' from just a crop of your file. Take a look at my website (below) if you want-- virtually everything was shot with that lens.
Also, I second the suggestion for checking out the POTN forums. It's Canon-focused (though not exclusively, of course) and is a treasure-trove of helpful info and advice, with a great buying/selling forum.
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With most modern camera sensors able to out perform lenses putting the very best lens on the front is more important than ever.
I have the 24-105 and it's such a useful lens, i got rid of my 24-70 2.8 v1 because of weight and and the reach stopping at 70mm was frustrating to me but looking back at the quality of those photos now i think it was a bad decision. If you are going full fame for sure then get the new 24-70 it has got some rave reviews. If you do not need f2.8 get the f4 IS it has good close up ability and 4 stop IS this in my opinion makes it a great travel lens if the optical quality matches the 2.8 then that would be my favoured option. If it will be a long time till you go FF the 24-105 could make sense as you are are only using the sweet spot in the middle of the lens (i find the corners soft on FF) Others have mentioned Sigma and they do have some great lenses but not to sure on the weather proofing, the L lenses have the gasket on them that stops water ingress, so if you are into "all weather" photography i would stick to Canon. |
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Thanks for the vote on the 17-40. That's good to hear about the 24-105!
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Well, of course the 70-200 2.8 would be more beneficial in that regard. One reason is the focal length - the other is the aperture of 2.8 if need be. But other things change as well. Not saying that's good or bad but it simply a different focal length range (with the overlap in this case of course).
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