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Old May 19, 2008, 02:05 PM   #51
lost eden
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Not the best photos, light has gone for today.

Wonderful Tenba camera bag, I can cram 15Kg+ of gear in it & it's still wonderfully comfortable to carry.


Bodies. From left are Pentax MV-1 with Power Winder ME, Pentax MV, Pentax MX. I also have a broken K1000 & I've been promised an ME Super the next time I visit a particular relative. Lenses, again from left, all SMC Pentax-M, 50mm f1.7, 28mm f2.8, 40mm f2.8 pancake.


More glass. From left, 75-300mm Hanimex, 80-200mm Tokina, SMC Pentax-M 100mm f4 macro, 135mm f2.8 Mitsuki, 3x teleconverter.


Random stuff in the side pockets. Flashguns, focussing plates, mini tripod, Rollei B35.


Film in plastic tubs in the fridge. Black & white on the left, colour on the right.


Not pictured are cheapy tripod, Pentax AF200 flashgun (forgot that one) & Pentax Optio A30 ultracompact digicam (taking the photos).
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Old May 19, 2008, 06:37 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by lost eden View Post
Not the best photos, light has gone for today.

Wonderful Tenba camera bag, I can cram 15Kg+ of gear in it & it's still wonderfully comfortable to carry.
Might I ask what the model name for the bag is? I absolutely love it!

Thanks
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Old May 19, 2008, 06:46 PM   #53
lost eden
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Might I ask what the model name for the bag is? I absolutely love it!

Thanks
Sorry but I don't have a clue! There's no label or text anywhere on the bag whatsoever, all I know is it's made by Tenba because that's what it says on the front. I bought it second-hand on eBay a couple years back & I think it was out-of-production even then. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.
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Old May 19, 2008, 07:45 PM   #54
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Here in the next month or so, I'm going to be ordering a new lens for my Canon 350D. I've pretty much decided on the Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM Autofocus Lens, as it seems to be the best in that price range. If anyone here has the same lens, would you mind telling me what you think of it? Also, on B&H they have the same lens listed twice, the only difference is one is imported, and the other isn't. What's the actual difference?

For reference, I'm going to be using it for auto races (American Le Mans to be specific) mostly during the day.
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Old May 19, 2008, 07:50 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by lost eden View Post
Sorry but I don't have a clue! There's no label or text anywhere on the bag whatsoever, all I know is it's made by Tenba because that's what it says on the front. I bought it second-hand on eBay a couple years back & I think it was out-of-production even then. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.
No worries mate! Thanks anyway Awesome bag just so you know! Retro + slick
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Old May 19, 2008, 10:48 PM   #56
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Yup, it's tough! The cover for the battery is kinda sloppy for me tho XD
Nokia 6085. Just thought if it looked as an other phone
The battery can not be as bad as mine though, I was bored at work one day ( I work at a place that does minor repairs for CDMA call phones) and I shoved the bigger battery in it. BL6C I think is it's model number? Anyways, atleast a week and a bit battery life with heavy usage.
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Old May 19, 2008, 11:12 PM   #57
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Can anyone give a simple to understand breakdown of what the best settings are for shooting moving objects? I'd like to capture the moving object in a freeze pose, and not with their moving limbs blurred, etc.

I don't really understand shutter priority, and everytime I have my camera in this mode all of the pictures come out extremely dark. Any tips for this?

I see those Sebring shots on the first page were done using shutter priority, but I can't get any results like that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old May 20, 2008, 03:58 AM   #58
lost eden
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No worries mate! Thanks anyway Awesome bag just so you know! Retro + slick
Yeah I didn't really like the current market, everything seems to be moving towards backpacks or those single-strap backpacks you sling round & access from the side. I wanted something more traditional & found this!
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Old May 20, 2008, 08:31 AM   #59
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The battery can not be as bad as mine though, I was bored at work one day ( I work at a place that does minor repairs for CDMA call phones) and I shoved the bigger battery in it. BL6C I think is it's model number? Anyways, atleast a week and a bit battery life with heavy usage.
Well :P I'm glad you've got a good battery..
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Old May 20, 2008, 09:00 AM   #60
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I dont have pictures here at work.

Canon 5D
Canon 16-35 f/2.8 II
Canon 17-40 f/4
Canon 24-105 f/4 IS
Canon 70-200 f/4 IS
Canon 400 f/4
Canon 100 f/2.8 Macro
Canon 430 EX

Gitzo GM2540 RRS MH-01
Gitzo GT0530/Markins Q3/RRS Lever
Gitzo GT2530/RRS BH55/RRS Lever
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Old May 22, 2008, 11:45 AM   #61
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From left to right: 35mm Wide Angle Lens, 55mm-67mm Step-Up Adapter(allows the connection of lenses having a 67mm filter size),
Reverse Ring, Mount Adapter(EOS-Contax).


Reverse ring can be used to shoot macro shot using non-macro lens.

Enjoy the fun of macro photography without buying expensive macro lenes.
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Old May 22, 2008, 12:09 PM   #62
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Well don't have a picture of the full set and can't as one of my cameras is at Nikon but here is the list. Could have a picture up eventually.

Nikon D300 w/MB-D10
Nikon D200 w/MB-D200
Bunch of EN-EL3 and EN-EL4 batteries
Nikon 28-70 f2.8
Nikon 70-200 f2.8 VR
Nikon 300mm f2.8 II
Nikon 50 f1.8
Tamron 28-75 f2.8
Kenko Pro 2x teleconverter
Nikon SB-800 w/ SC-29 off shoe cable
Giottos MT9361 Tripod
ThinkTank Belt with various lens/camera pouches
Tamrac Backpack
Pelican 1510 hard case
Custom Brakets Pro-M Flash Bracket
BVS Pulsar Flash Battery
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Old May 22, 2008, 12:13 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UMHurricanes34 View Post
Can anyone give a simple to understand breakdown of what the best settings are for shooting moving objects? I'd like to capture the moving object in a freeze pose, and not with their moving limbs blurred, etc.

I don't really understand shutter priority, and everytime I have my camera in this mode all of the pictures come out extremely dark. Any tips for this?

I see those Sebring shots on the first page were done using shutter priority, but I can't get any results like that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Well best bet is manual priority and a quick lens ie f2.8 or faster (1.2,1.4,1.8) Shooting at 1/500th+ and f2.8 depending on the thing you are trying to stop. The Sebring shots were panned, meaning he followed the action while the camera took the picture. That takes a lot of work and practice. You can do it with slower lenses, just need to make sure there is enough light. There is a reason why the pro sports photogs use large expensive lenses.
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Old May 22, 2008, 11:10 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by djbahdow01 View Post
Well best bet is manual priority and a quick lens ie f2.8 or faster (1.2,1.4,1.8) Shooting at 1/500th+ and f2.8 depending on the thing you are trying to stop. The Sebring shots were panned, meaning he followed the action while the camera took the picture. That takes a lot of work and practice. You can do it with slower lenses, just need to make sure there is enough light. There is a reason why the pro sports photogs use large expensive lenses.
Yea, it seems as though light is the main issue. I took my f/4L to a softball game last night to test out shutter priority and got some pretty great results (despite having the bump the ISO up later in the night due to the darkness) The later shots are pretty noisy, but only when I cropped them to zoom in on the actual players I was shooting, as the 200mm focal length really isnt nearly long enough to reach the pitchers mound or home plate from the outfield...
Kinda sucky but the early pictures cropped beautifully as they were ISO 200 or so I believe. I'll definitely be looking into a faster, longer lens. I'd love a 400mm but those things are friggin ginormous.

Thumb resize.

Also got an unexpected chance to test my brand new 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens when I looked down and saw a lady bug chilling out...

Thumb resize.
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Old May 23, 2008, 07:50 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UMHurricanes34 View Post
Yea, it seems as though light is the main issue. I took my f/4L to a softball game last night to test out shutter priority and got some pretty great results (despite having the bump the ISO up later in the night due to the darkness) The later shots are pretty noisy, but only when I cropped them to zoom in on the actual players I was shooting, as the 200mm focal length really isnt nearly long enough to reach the pitchers mound or home plate from the outfield...
Kinda sucky but the early pictures cropped beautifully as they were ISO 200 or so I believe. I'll definitely be looking into a faster, longer lens. I'd love a 400mm but those things are friggin ginormous.
Thumb resize.

Also got an unexpected chance to test my brand new 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM lens when I looked down and saw a lady bug chilling out...

Thumb resize.
Ahh forgot to mention bump up the ISO when the light starts going away. I normally shoot ISO 400-1600 depending on the light.
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Old May 23, 2008, 07:35 PM   #66
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Ahh forgot to mention bump up the ISO when the light starts going away. I normally shoot ISO 400-1600 depending on the light.
Guess ya didnt read the main text of the post

I always shoot at the lowest ISO possible until it becomes unreasonable. I like to take advantage of whatever daylight I get and get nice, noise-free images until it's no longer an option. That's when I bump the ISO on up, and get the noisy crops. If I had a longer focal length lens than 200mm for sports it wouldnt be such an issue at higher ISOs as I wouldnt have to crop nearly as much. I also wish I had gone with at least the 40D as it apparently handles higher ISOs better than the Rebels. I'd love for some relatively noise-free ISO800+ shots at night, it's just not feasible with the Rebels.
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Old May 23, 2008, 08:53 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by UMHurricanes34 View Post
Can anyone give a simple to understand breakdown of what the best settings are for shooting moving objects? I'd like to capture the moving object in a freeze pose, and not with their moving limbs blurred, etc.

I don't really understand shutter priority, and everytime I have my camera in this mode all of the pictures come out extremely dark. Any tips for this?

I see those Sebring shots on the first page were done using shutter priority, but I can't get any results like that. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Shutter priority may not be appropriate for the moving objects you want to shoot. I specifically want some blur (background and wheels of the car) in my racing photos, which is why I use shutter priority and set a slow shutter about 1/200 sec). The cars in my Sebring photos are sharp because of successful panning (and I throw away 20+ rejects for everyone I keep).

If you are shooting moving people, animals, etc. you want a faster shutter to freeze all the action. If you are shooting pictures that are too dark, then your shutter speed is likely too fast for your aperture setting, i.e. your exposure is wrong. You either need to open up your aperture, or set a higher ISO.

Natural light, action photos aren't always possible with slower lenses. Even if you stop down from maximum to get more DOF, you still want a large max aperture to allow plenty of light for fast autofocusing. That's why I use a 70-200/2.8.
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Old May 23, 2008, 09:23 PM   #68
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BIGGER is better
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Old May 24, 2008, 01:17 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by ill0gical0ne View Post
Here in the next month or so, I'm going to be ordering a new lens for my Canon 350D. I've pretty much decided on the Canon Zoom Telephoto EF 70-200mm f/4.0L USM Autofocus Lens, as it seems to be the best in that price range. If anyone here has the same lens, would you mind telling me what you think of it? Also, on B&H they have the same lens listed twice, the only difference is one is imported, and the other isn't. What's the actual difference?

For reference, I'm going to be using it for auto races (American Le Mans to be specific) mostly during the day.
Don't think anyone else answered this; so the difference is that Imported carries no US warranty.
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Old May 24, 2008, 12:32 PM   #70
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Thanks for the tips RaceTripper, I wish I had gotten the 2.8 but the 4 is such a bargain for L glass. I've been researching my next L telephoto purchase and I've decided it has to be 2.8 and I would like IS.

I believe most of the shots I took at the softball game were at about 1/250 to 1/350...They came out a lot better than any of the other shoots I did prior so it worked, just wish I had a longer focal length lens than 200mm
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Old May 24, 2008, 12:50 PM   #71
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Thanks for the tips RaceTripper, I wish I had gotten the 2.8 but the 4 is such a bargain for L glass. I've been researching my next L telephoto purchase and I've decided it has to be 2.8 and I would like IS.

I believe most of the shots I took at the softball game were at about 1/250 to 1/350...They came out a lot better than any of the other shoots I did prior so it worked, just wish I had a longer focal length lens than 200mm
The expense of getting to a f/2.8 lens is always the issue.

I also wish I had a longer focal length for the front-on shots of cars (would love the get the Nikon 200-400/4 VR or a 300/2.8 VR). I have a 1.4x TC to get me 280/4 out of my lens, and I'm thinking about getting a 1.7x TC, but most of my shooting is with the 70-200/2.8 by itself.
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Old May 24, 2008, 12:54 PM   #72
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Old May 25, 2008, 04:14 AM   #73
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This is what I carried on the flight with me to Australia (thumbnailed):



D2X, 14-24 f2.8 AF-S, 24-70 f2.8 AF-S, 80-200 f2.8 AF-S, TC-14E, 50 f1.8 AI, filter stack, a couple of SB-800 flashes, a couple of Fong diffusers, RRS pano clamp and nodal slide, DR-4 right angle finder, MC-30 remote release, SC-17 sync cord, bubble level, 16GB of CF cards, a spare battery, and the MBP 15 with power brick in a Tamrac bag. My tripod (Gitzo 1127 & Arca B1), monopod (Gitzo), 300 f4 AF-S, 85 f1.4 AF-D, and 60 f2.8 AF-D micro are in transit via air freight along with some additional computer equipment (ACD, external drives, networking stuff) and clothes.
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Old May 25, 2008, 06:13 AM   #74
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This is what I carried on the flight with me to Australia (thumbnailed):

[img]http://www.coates3.com/modules/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=18250[/omg]

D2X, 14-24 f2.8 AF-S, 24-70 f2.8 AF-S, 80-200 f2.8 AF-S, TC-14E, 50 f1.8 AI, filter stack, a couple of SB-800 flashes, a couple of Fong diffusers, RRS pano clamp and nodal slide, DR-4 right angle finder, MC-30 remote release, SC-17 sync cord, bubble level, 16GB of CF cards, a spare battery, and the MBP 15 with power brick in a Tamrac bag. My tripod (Gitzo 1127 & Arca B1), monopod (Gitzo), 300 f4 AF-S, 85 f1.4 AF-D, and 60 f2.8 AF-D micro are in transit via air freight along with some additional computer equipment (ACD, external drives, networking stuff) and clothes.
It's a good thing airlines never weigh/size hand luggage isn't it!? I always take my camera bag as hand luggage & when I went to Australia in Summer '06 my hand luggage topped 17Kg (camera bag + coats over my arm + duty free purchases + carrier bags full of stuff) - the limit was 7Kg!
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Old May 25, 2008, 07:28 AM   #75
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It's a good thing airlines never weigh/size hand luggage isn't it!? I always take my camera bag as hand luggage & when I went to Australia in Summer '06 my hand luggage topped 17Kg (camera bag + coats over my arm + duty free purchases + carrier bags full of stuff) - the limit was 7Kg!
The sole reason I chose United for this trip was their lack of weight restrictions for carry-ons. I visited SE Asia last year on Philippine Airlines (PAL), and like most airlines they have a 7kg limit. My laptop, the camera body, the 17-55 I had at the time, a 70-300 I had at the time, the 85, the bag, and absolutely nothing else added up to 7kg. I didn't want to deal with those limits on this trip, which is a 6 week precursor to a 2+ year stay here.

(edit: PAL did weigh my carry-on at every boarding. It hewed pretty close to their limits, but was usually over. They commented, but let me board anyway. This bag probably weighs 20Kg and would be pushing it...)
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Last edited by Cliff3; May 25, 2008 at 07:43 AM.
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