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Old Aug 28, 2014, 01:14 PM   #3001
kokito
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[QUOTE=ZZZAC;19534142]check Q7055 and Q7056

The R7058 may indicate a shorted fet across that line or nearby.[COLOR="#808080"]

----------

I thank you very much for taking the time to look at it
can you just tell me if i have to desolder the mofsets to check them with a multimeter or if you have a special way of doing it
thanks again.
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Old Aug 28, 2014, 02:21 PM   #3002
grize
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZAC View Post
check Q7055 and Q7056

The R7058 may indicate a shorted fet across that line or nearby.

----------



it sounds like your SMC may have failed, it certainly has deteriorate.
if there is no activity atall the only thing you can check is the system RTC, If you get the proper clock signal to the MCP then it should alow the fan to spin, if this signal is missing or incorrect it wont start (this is controlled by the SMC)

checking this is difficult without an Oscilloscope, bu there should be a steady voltage on the clock crystal, usually around 0.8 but dont quote me on that.

Good luck

Thanks for the reply. I'm only getting around 0.04v from one pin on the crystal. No output or input when I check it with the oscilliscope. Is there anything you can suggest to check next?

The magsafe light is turning green, and there are some voltages around the board that seem reasonable but it still isn't powering on or charging the battery.

Thanks
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Old Aug 28, 2014, 02:48 PM   #3003
grize
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Originally Posted by grize View Post
Thanks for the reply. I'm only getting around 0.04v from one pin on the crystal. No output or input when I check it with the oscilliscope. Is there anything you can suggest to check next?

The magsafe light is turning green, and there are some voltages around the board that seem reasonable but it still isn't powering on or charging the battery.

Thanks
Just rechecked the output from the RTC crystal and I was wrong in my last post. I am getting approx 0.5v from (or to?) the crystal on net RTC_CLK32K_XTALIN.

There isn't any reading on RTC_CLK32K_XTALOUT.

Any suggestions where to look next?

Thanks
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Old Aug 28, 2014, 03:35 PM   #3004
ZZZAC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grize View Post
Just rechecked the output from the RTC crystal and I was wrong in my last post. I am getting approx 0.5v from (or to?) the crystal on net RTC_CLK32K_XTALIN.

There isn't any reading on RTC_CLK32K_XTALOUT.

Any suggestions where to look next?

Thanks

Think it needs to be higher than that, specaily bad if it has no signal from the oscliscope. (i dont own a osclipscope so cant test it)

I know i have one here that works somewhere so ill test the voltage on my board at some point, i have a strong feeling you need to replace the smc chip
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Old Aug 28, 2014, 03:41 PM   #3005
grize
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZAC View Post
Think it needs to be higher than that, specaily bad if it has no signal from the oscliscope. (i dont own a osclipscope so cant test it)

I know i have one here that works somewhere so ill test the voltage on my board at some point, i have a strong feeling you need to replace the smc chip
Ok thanks for getting back to me. I have found that I don't have PP3V3_S0 anywhere on the board.

What is the deal with replacing the SMC chip? I have some scrap boards here but none of them are identical to the one I am working on. If I find one with the same SMC chip, is it safe to swap? Or does it need to come from an identical logic board?

Is there anything else i can test to confirm whether it is the SMC chip?

Thanks
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Old Aug 28, 2014, 04:00 PM   #3006
South657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macelek01 View Post
Hi South657,

I measured R7402, pin 2 was 12,5V and pin 1 was 0,5V. Do you think it is problem?

Thanks!

Ok was this at boot sorry forgot to say, needs to be as far as boot will go if at boot and you have 12.5v,
we then need to look to the fets next. let me know and i will get back to you.

south657

Power on look at L7510 do you get volts?

Last edited by South657; Aug 29, 2014 at 03:01 AM. Reason: up date
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Old Aug 28, 2014, 11:31 PM   #3007
varungargi
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Originally Posted by varungargi View Post
Also i dont hear the chime as soon as i press the power button or not even after secs it comes like after a min
if i see the logic board i see the fan spins as soon i press the power but it stops for a sec and then starts. it does like this for like 2 times and then i hear the chime sound and then the macbook works fine.

Is it something to do with EFI chip ? I updated to latest EFI SMC Firmware still no change . . .

Any help ?

No One ?
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Old Aug 29, 2014, 02:58 AM   #3008
ZZZAC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grize View Post
Ok thanks for getting back to me. I have found that I don't have PP3V3_S0 anywhere on the board.

What is the deal with replacing the SMC chip? I have some scrap boards here but none of them are identical to the one I am working on. If I find one with the same SMC chip, is it safe to swap? Or does it need to come from an identical logic board?

Is there anything else i can test to confirm whether it is the SMC chip?

Thanks

Test to seeif the smc gets voltage right to it (im not talking just about g3h but G3h to the input of the chip.

3.3vs0 and s3 would only apear if the SMC had activated the MCP as the MCP sends signals to activate different power states.

Youd need a reballing stencile to pull one on a scrap board, theres three different firmware versions, you need to be sure you get the same version, the firmware version is indicated by the second line of the chip.
Its a hard job and im not telling you it will definatley resolve your problem, however with charging problems/no liquid damage and symptoms slowly getting worse thats the only thing i imagen it could be.
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Old Aug 29, 2014, 03:13 AM   #3009
ZZZAC
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[QUOTE=kokito;19536600]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZAC View Post
check Q7055 and Q7056

The R7058 may indicate a shorted fet across that line or nearby.[COLOR="#808080"]

----------

I thank you very much for taking the time to look at it
can you just tell me if i have to desolder the mofsets to check them with a multimeter or if you have a special way of doing it
thanks again.
check the resistance across the fet (or from the battery fuse to ground) and it should tell you if the rail is shorting,there are varius ways of finding short circuited components.

----------

i have this dead annoyig macbook air a1466 (820-3437)

It was liquid damaged, i restored g3hot, i then replaced the wled and polarizer now we have a very nearly full functional laptop.

Problem is small and therefore frustrating. keyboard and trackpad dont respond in OS. it always thinks there's a bluetooth keyboard installed and that means it disables internal trackpad and keyborad.

it does the same with the airport card removed. i figure it must be a dead resistor, capacitor or something on the logic board. Worst part is the trackpad and keyboard works at the os boot loader (where you select the drive you want to boot to)

Anyone have any idea's?
havent taken my multimeter to it yet but i imagine its not going to be an easy fix
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Old Aug 29, 2014, 04:25 PM   #3010
grize
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZAC View Post
Test to seeif the smc gets voltage right to it (im not talking just about g3h but G3h to the input of the chip.

3.3vs0 and s3 would only apear if the SMC had activated the MCP as the MCP sends signals to activate different power states.

Youd need a reballing stencile to pull one on a scrap board, theres three different firmware versions, you need to be sure you get the same version, the firmware version is indicated by the second line of the chip.
Its a hard job and im not telling you it will definatley resolve your problem, however with charging problems/no liquid damage and symptoms slowly getting worse thats the only thing i imagen it could be.

Hey ZZZAC,

Thanks a lot for the reply and the advice so far. I took a gamble and replaced the SMC chip with one from a scrap board, without the use of a stencil. Initially after replacing the chip i was only getting a dim green light on the magsafe and nothing else, so I reflowed the chip and gave it some gentle nudging.

Now things are looking much better! The magsafe lights up green and then orange to indicate the battery is charging. The battery volatage is rising so looks ok there. The RTC crystal is now near 1V. The board still wont power on. It does respond to a SMC reset via the keyboard though, as I can see the magsafe change colour when I release the keys.

Any suggestions where to look next with this one?



Regarding your MBA - Are you able to reset the SMC using an external keyboard? Have you tried booting in to single user mode to see if the keyboard works outside of the OS?

Thanks
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Old Aug 30, 2014, 08:37 AM   #3011
bill27
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Location: Italy
macbook pro early 2011 water damage

Hi guys, I have this problem with my macbook pro 2011, the previous owner has spilled on it milk, now I have cleaned up the motherboard in the ultrasonic cleaner but now it can't boot.
I have noticed that the charger chip is blown and I have ordered a new one, so I have measured the voltage near contact of battery and I have detected this voltage why?

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Old Aug 30, 2014, 10:58 AM   #3012
mvmanolov
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820-3115 update.

Just wanted to post an update for those having similar issues looking for solutions.

I had a repair shop reflow the SMC (i don't have the tools for it) and the thing works flawlessly now... (its been two days)

Good luck all, and many thanks to those who responded
__________________
2012 Mini 2.6 i7 16GB 128 + 256 SSD | 2013 MBA 1.73 i7 8GB 128 SSD | 2012 MBP 2.5 i5 8GB 128 840 Pro | 2008 MB 2.2 c2d 4GB | 2006 iMac 2.0 c2d 2GB | iPad 3 | iPhone 5 | iPhone 4S | iPhone 4 |
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Old Yesterday, 11:11 AM   #3013
ZZZAC
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Location: ALB repairs uk
Quote:
Originally Posted by bill27 View Post
Hi guys, I have this problem with my macbook pro 2011, the previous owner has spilled on it milk, now I have cleaned up the motherboard in the ultrasonic cleaner but now it can't boot.
I have noticed that the charger chip is blown and I have ordered a new one, so I have measured the voltage near contact of battery and I have detected this voltage why?

Image
your ic is short, means you probably shouldn't have it plugged in
Its sending the input voltage everywhere maybe.
Also looks like you should check your multimeter. 26.5v isnt correct it should be 16.5v there would be no way to boost the input voltage
dont plug it in untill its been repaired!
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Old Yesterday, 12:16 PM   #3014
ZZZAC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvmanolov View Post
Just wanted to post an update for those having similar issues looking for solutions.

I had a repair shop reflow the SMC (i don't have the tools for it) and the thing works flawlessly now... (its been two days)

Good luck all, and many thanks to those who responded
Thought that would be the root of the problem!
thanks for letting us know

----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by grize View Post
Hey ZZZAC,

Thanks a lot for the reply and the advice so far. I took a gamble and replaced the SMC chip with one from a scrap board, without the use of a stencil. Initially after replacing the chip i was only getting a dim green light on the magsafe and nothing else, so I reflowed the chip and gave it some gentle nudging.

Now things are looking much better! The magsafe lights up green and then orange to indicate the battery is charging. The battery volatage is rising so looks ok there. The RTC crystal is now near 1V. The board still wont power on. It does respond to a SMC reset via the keyboard though, as I can see the magsafe change colour when I release the keys.

Any suggestions where to look next with this one?



Regarding your MBA - Are you able to reset the SMC using an external keyboard? Have you tried booting in to single user mode to see if the keyboard works outside of the OS?

Thanks

I suggest you get a stencil and a new SMC from somewhere as im unsure how valid replacing an smc without a stencil or rebelling would be.
It could be the MCP failed and is not issuing s3 power enable signals. id be sure the SMC is good before proceeding.

im going to try get to the macbook air later as i should probably get it ready for sale, owned it for about 2 months!
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Old Yesterday, 01:05 PM   #3015
chipmunk23
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Mba 820-3208-a

Hi folks,
I have a dead MacBook air 11 inch with board 820-3208-A (liquid damage).
I am looking for the schematics and board view file.
G3Hot is not present.
(I am using the schematics for the 820-3209-A assuming it is similar...)
I found the LT3470 (marked "LDPR") after some searching. Voltage on Vcc is about 0.6 volts so no where near enough. I did find a dead 4.7 ohm resistor which I swapped (no change). I don't know if it is the one that feeds into the diode that feeds into the LT3470. I only see one 4.7 ohm resistor on the board so maybe it is the one, but then again it is rather far away from the LT3470 so maybe it is not.
Any suggestions? If someone has the schematics for this model I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks / Harald
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Old Yesterday, 06:25 PM   #3016
kokito
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Hi evryone
I have noticed that on Q7031 pin 5 I have 19.02 v with magsafe only and on pin 1,2,3 I have only 1.92 v , while at pin 24 (charg_ugate) of U7000 I have 2.33 v
Can somone please tell me if this is normal.
Thank you
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Old Today, 03:28 AM   #3017
South657
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Location: portsmouth UK
Quote:
Originally Posted by kokito View Post
Hi evryone
I have noticed that on Q7031 pin 5 I have 19.02 v with magsafe only and on pin 1,2,3 I have only 1.92 v , while at pin 24 (charg_ugate) of U7000 I have 2.33 v
Can somone please tell me if this is normal.
Thank you
Hi kokito,

No: looks like u7000 is bad.

south657
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Old Today, 09:27 AM   #3018
kokito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by South657 View Post
Hi kokito,

No: looks like u7000 is bad.

south657
Thanks fo your answer.
Is it hard to change?
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Old Today, 10:21 AM   #3019
bill27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZZAC View Post
your ic is short, means you probably shouldn't have it plugged in
Its sending the input voltage everywhere maybe.
Also looks like you should check your multimeter. 26.5v isnt correct it should be 16.5v there would be no way to boost the input voltage
dont plug it in untill its been repaired!
Thanks for your reply, you right my multimeter is gone
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Old Today, 11:25 AM   #3020
South657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokito View Post
Thanks fo your answer.
Is it hard to change?
Hi kokito,

Yes: if you have to ask that i would get a pro to do it if its a one off. You may also have other faults on the board as well, the 2 fets that make the 12 volt can fail as well. If you read up on u7000 on this thread you will
then have an idea of how to proceed.

regards

south657
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Old Today, 01:19 PM   #3021
kokito
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Quote:
Originally Posted by South657 View Post
Hi kokito,

Yes: if you have to ask that i would get a pro to do it if its a one off. You may also have other faults on the board as well, the 2 fets that make the 12 volt can fail as well. If you read up on u7000 on this thread you will
then have an idea of how to proceed.

regards

south657
Thanks a lot for all your help

I will be checking Q7030,Q7031,Q7035,Q7036,Q7055, Q7056 for short
Can I do it without desoldering them and how

Thanks
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