tnx for that suggestion. i'll try to put battery apart for some days. i was thinking in bad magsafe
but before replace it let's try that.any tips for the 820-2879?
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SMC Issue on MBP 13 - Hardware Troubleshooting Guide
- Thread starter Dadioh
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tnx for that suggestion. i'll try to put battery apart for some days. i was thinking in bad magsafe
but before replace it let's try that.any tips for the 820-2879?
tnx for that suggestion. i'll try to put battery apart for some days. i was thinking in bad magsafe
any tips for the 820-2879?
bad magsafe board?? no no .. it would not cause that....
tnx, ive noticed that when battery is connected in the info i have "battery capacity" to only 1433 mah and macbook tell me to change battery. it has 952 cycle.
maybe is there some battery reset or calibration to try before replace the battery ?
edit: ok ill make battery discharge then charge full to see if it will come back ok again. if not ill change the battery :
now main problem is the other 2879 u7000 chip problem and 12.5volt not ok... cant fix this unit from 1 year
tnx, ive noticed that when battery is connected in the info i have "battery capacity" to only 1433 mah and macbook tell me to change battery. it has 952 cycle.
maybe is there some battery reset or calibration to try before replace the battery ?
edit: ok ill make battery discharge then charge full to see if it will come back ok again. if not ill change the battery :
now main problem is the other 2879 u7000 chip problem and 12.5volt not ok... cant fix this unit from 1 year
This is most probably your battery... 952 cycles is too much.. sometimes you have a 952 cycled battery that is ok and sometimes its bad..
1433mah says it all.. its bad... so it should have a high self discharge...
What the other problem? did not get it .. same macbook ? whats going on?
yes, finally it is the battery going to die. seller told me that battery got a good mah..
the other problem is a different macbook pro 13 core duo.
it has not 12.5volt on f7040, but only 1-6 3-9 volt oscillation.
i reported u7000 pins voltage. something must be bad as on pin 1 i have 9v instead of the 0v when all is ok..... 3.35volt on g3hot.
with u7000 installed i have no 3.3 volt. without u7000 i have 3.3 volt on coil.
i checked almost all resistors on that circuit and they are good...
changed also the 2 12.5 volt fet with same result.
yes, finally it is the battery going to die. seller told me that battery got a good mah..
the other problem is a different macbook pro 13 core duo.
it has not 12.5volt on f7040, but only 1-6 3-9 volt oscillation.
i reported u7000 pins voltage. something must be bad as on pin 1 i have 9v instead of the 0v when all is ok..... 3.35volt on g3hot.
with u7000 installed i have no 3.3 volt. without u7000 i have 3.3 volt on coil.
i checked almost all resistors on that circuit and they are good...
changed also the 2 12.5 volt fet with same result.
This 12.5v is generated by the u7000 controlling a fet to operate a coil of the DC-DC BULK converter...
But to U7000 be able to do that, it has to talk to the SMC ... It can be a SMC issue too....
How to detect G3Hot Short....?
Hello,
Is there an easy and concrete way to detect G3Hot (or others for that sake) shorting to ground?
I have a water damaged logicboard that doesn't power on using battery OR charger.
1. I have noticed that the Charger light is dim and it is almost in blinking state and voltage fluctuates between 2-16.5V.
2. There is NO G3Hot on the board. When powered with battery, I can see that the G3Hot power supply does get 11.x volts but its output is short to the ground.
Now how can I determine what is causing that short? There are about 10 capacitors, mostly 0402, in different plaecs on the board that connect to PP3V42_G3H and a bunch of components. I was ondering if there was an easy way for me to detect where the short may be? Or would I need to step-by-stop remove each part and test?
Any advice would be helpful!
Many thanks!
Hello,
Is there an easy and concrete way to detect G3Hot (or others for that sake) shorting to ground?
I have a water damaged logicboard that doesn't power on using battery OR charger.
1. I have noticed that the Charger light is dim and it is almost in blinking state and voltage fluctuates between 2-16.5V.
2. There is NO G3Hot on the board. When powered with battery, I can see that the G3Hot power supply does get 11.x volts but its output is short to the ground.
Now how can I determine what is causing that short? There are about 10 capacitors, mostly 0402, in different plaecs on the board that connect to PP3V42_G3H and a bunch of components. I was ondering if there was an easy way for me to detect where the short may be? Or would I need to step-by-stop remove each part and test?
Any advice would be helpful!
Many thanks!
Attachments
Well.. You need to use a powersupply on the output of the 3.42v coil and increase current until something get hot... this is why i have a thermal cam....
meanwhile i try to fix the 2 macbook board, i got a macbook air 13 inch core duo from a friend with this problem:
works fine from adapter. some month ago i changed him the battery because was dead.
now pc works ok with adapter, but if i disconnect adapter pc turn off sometimes immediately, sometimes after a bit.
if i look in battery information it say that everything is fine.
also i have noticed that when battery is at 70% (for example) it took up to 4 hours to get to 80%.
voltage at battery fuse is 8v (ok for a macbook air).
what could the the problem ?
works fine from adapter. some month ago i changed him the battery because was dead.
now pc works ok with adapter, but if i disconnect adapter pc turn off sometimes immediately, sometimes after a bit.
if i look in battery information it say that everything is fine.
also i have noticed that when battery is at 70% (for example) it took up to 4 hours to get to 80%.
voltage at battery fuse is 8v (ok for a macbook air).
what could the the problem ?
Problems of this kind with battery can always be related to the charger ic( and capacitors and resistors around).... If you are seeing battery information it's probably not smc related...also check battery fets..... It's also possible it's the battery itselft..,, so check it too with another battery...
Check for corrosion, I had c2d MacBook Air with corrosion due to airflow.... There are very very tinny small resistors that does not handle dust / moisture well...
I have a Macbook Air Late 2010 with liquid damage. I had to change the keyboard backlight fuse. I have thoroughly cleaned with a brush and cleaning of electronic components. The board boots correctly. According AHT is entirely correct. But I have the magsafe dim light. Also, if it's off with magsafe connected flashes green / orange. All this with very dim light on the magsafe.
The battery has 2 of the 4 points marked in red, but not swollen. I do not detect battery voltage using the multimeter and the battery is not detected, it always appears that the battery is not installed (ISTAT, coconut, osx ... no battery detected).
Moreover, I found that the center pin magsafe gives 0V when connected, while others give 16,5V. The fuse next to the magsafe connector gives the same values on both sides, checked against ground. And there the fuse near the battery connector too.
Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol would do something? The little corrosion or coffee stain I saw was around components fuse blacklight. I cleaned it well and now I do not see anything below the micro chips and I do not know ...
But such schemes have no inscriptions on the plate and in the early polycarbonate MacBook, I can not follow the scheme ...
You could tell me where the others are and G3Hot recomendáis check. If solucionase asking for power / audio board the asking, but I feel that it is not so and I would check.
I reset the PRAM / NVRAM and as I have no keyboard yet (it's on the way ...), I have reset SMC disconnecting long the battery and pressing the keys and pins from power-on board, it seems that resets it. But do not know how to check 100%. Until you have keyboard I can see that somehow SMC reset?
Thank you very much for the help that you can give me and excuse my English.
hi man,, its seems to me as SMC issue... you probably have g3hot 3.42v but check if its not too far from 3.42...
SMC " talks" to the battery through the SDA line.. It also needs the SLC line to control this communication..... Maybe there is corrosion underneath the SMC or its simply bad..
Check of the SDA and SLC are being pulled up to 3.4v(sda) and pushed down(0v) the slc....
My best bet would be the SMC... But sure you have to test and check all capactiors related to the SDA and SLC line...
The water indicator on the battery does not matter too much because it could have only had contact outside... but you need to check the battery board if there is any corrosion...also, check each cell voltage...
Take a good luck on all bad solder because of the corrosion.. sometimes its so bad that the SMD component is there but there is no contact between itself and the pcb pads...
I've got a water damaged Late 2013 13" MBP Retina A1502.
The computer had a small amount of liquid spilled on it that caused the battery to stop charging. The computer still recognizes the battery, but won't charge or run from it. There's still 36% of charge left in the battery but the computer turns off as soon as the Magsafe charger is disconnected.
Any tips on what to check?
The computer had a small amount of liquid spilled on it that caused the battery to stop charging. The computer still recognizes the battery, but won't charge or run from it. There's still 36% of charge left in the battery but the computer turns off as soon as the Magsafe charger is disconnected.
Any tips on what to check?
man.. if its a small spills... probably the problem is on the spill area... check al parts in this area and rework all solders... be sure everything there is ok first... then.. if it still happens, you need to troubleshoot the battery FET parts, resistor and the fet itself.....
I think the problem is the i/o board, before buying another I want to check, because I've seen people that changes and still the same problem.
But I can not follow you. I have the schematics, but I can not identify the elements. For example:
- g3hot see it in the schemes, but what chip is?
- I have a capacitor tester, where are SDA and SLC in the schemes? And on the board?
Regarding the battery think like you, but I get 0v is it possible that they all have 0v, or am checking where not ?, perhaps is dead.
Thanks
Hello everybody!
First, I want to say this is an utterly amazing thread; I haven't read the ENTIRE thing, but have gotten up to page 20 or so...
Basically, here's my situation:
I have a Late 2011 13" MBP (K20i), NO liquid spill; I honestly have no idea what the hell happened. One day it was okay but with the HDD had become badly corrupted, upon fixing it on another computer and putting it back, it wouldn't turn on.
After much debugging and trying everything I've though to do, here's what I've found out.
First, the symptoms:
I have tried booting into rEFInd and force-flashing the SMC to no avail. I get an error because the SMC is in B (base) mode instead of the correct A (I think), if I reset the smc via the command-line with the smc flashing utility, the commands returns 0 and the computer immediately turns off and exists the SMC bypass mode, so again it won't boot.
I remember when I first opened it there was a little bit of corrosion around the SMC chip but I thoroughly cleaned with IPA the first time I opened it (of course, battery disconnected)
Now, I cannot spot anything physically wrong with the board.
Measurements I've done:
Have measured a couple resistances relating to the above measurements and they've all measure very close to the values the schematic gives.
I have no idea where to go from here.
Frankly I feel somewhat like a kid playing with his father's tools but just maybe I can learn enough and you can help enough to at least be able to diagnose the issue.
Here's the relevant portion of the ASD log:
First, I want to say this is an utterly amazing thread; I haven't read the ENTIRE thing, but have gotten up to page 20 or so...
Basically, here's my situation:
I have a Late 2011 13" MBP (K20i), NO liquid spill; I honestly have no idea what the hell happened. One day it was okay but with the HDD had become badly corrupted, upon fixing it on another computer and putting it back, it wouldn't turn on.
After much debugging and trying everything I've though to do, here's what I've found out.
First, the symptoms:
- Non-responsive to power button or shorting of power pads.
- Magsafe does not light at all (occasionally it goes dim green and very rarely alternates dim green and dim amber), battery does not charge.
- Powers on and can even boot the OS if I use the SMC bypass method (Obviously when I do that, fans on full, no sensors, etc.)
- I've tried running an ASD while on that mode, it gives me an SMC communication error (which I believe is normal in that mode) and nothing else fails. Obviously, since there's no SMC there are no sensors.
- This will only work if I charge the battery on another mac.
I have tried booting into rEFInd and force-flashing the SMC to no avail. I get an error because the SMC is in B (base) mode instead of the correct A (I think), if I reset the smc via the command-line with the smc flashing utility, the commands returns 0 and the computer immediately turns off and exists the SMC bypass mode, so again it won't boot.
I remember when I first opened it there was a little bit of corrosion around the SMC chip but I thoroughly cleaned with IPA the first time I opened it (of course, battery disconnected)
Now, I cannot spot anything physically wrong with the board.
Measurements I've done:
- G3Hot is around 3.45V wherever I measure it.
- No SMC_BC_ACOK.
- Magsafe pins 2 and 4, 0.3V.
- Both fuses are OK.
- The SMC_RESET_L gave me (I think) 2.8V.
Have measured a couple resistances relating to the above measurements and they've all measure very close to the values the schematic gives.
I have no idea where to go from here.
Frankly I feel somewhat like a kid playing with his father's tools but just maybe I can learn enough and you can help enough to at least be able to diagnose the issue.
Here's the relevant portion of the ASD log:
Attachments
This is very probably the SMC.... but you need some tools and skills to replace it...
Your pictures are in very bad quality to check the board appearance.
To me, its 95% probable to be SMC..
Wow, yeah, I thought they looked better. Well, nothing looks burned, anyway. Hahahaha.
I did notice something today, though. It appears the wall-plug on the magsafe I was using to test broke (I'll have to fix that later) so there is a possibility I took readings without actually connecting the AC. I'll check that later and see if there's any change.
I did notice something today, though. It appears the wall-plug on the magsafe I was using to test broke (I'll have to fix that later) so there is a possibility I took readings without actually connecting the AC. I'll check that later and see if there's any change.
I have a Late 2009 / 2010 MBP 15" 2.8GHz i7
Machine was fine, until I tried a new battery from ebay. This battery had a faulty connector which may have allowed something to short out during connection. Anyway that battery is out of the equation. I put the old battery back straight after, which was charged (just had short life) but ever since the machine has these symptoms:
Mag light always green
Machine only powers from PSU, not battery
Machine does not detect battery (x-icon).
Internal battery receiving no charge.
All resets etc no use.
Remove PSU and machine dies instantly
So some time later, now the internal battery I suspect is completely flat too, this makes it harder to start the machine now.
Now it seems I can only start the machine via SMC bypass (holding down power button while connecting PSU).
This means it starts all fans blazing...
So, I'd like to try and fix this, but before I go get a new battery, bound to go flat with no means to charge it, I need to work out what is wrong with the charging circuit.
I've taken the logic board out and given it a close scan, nothing obvious is wrong visually.
I locate the i 625 charging IC and associated components. I wonder if it could be a problem around the current sensing circuit perhaps.
Any pointers would be much appreciated. I guess I will need a new battery to verify any potential fix. Any easy way to resurrect a flat battery for testing purposes in the mean time. Unfortunately I don't have a similar type of mac for any parts swapping.
Machine was fine, until I tried a new battery from ebay. This battery had a faulty connector which may have allowed something to short out during connection. Anyway that battery is out of the equation. I put the old battery back straight after, which was charged (just had short life) but ever since the machine has these symptoms:
Mag light always green
Machine only powers from PSU, not battery
Machine does not detect battery (x-icon).
Internal battery receiving no charge.
All resets etc no use.
Remove PSU and machine dies instantly
So some time later, now the internal battery I suspect is completely flat too, this makes it harder to start the machine now.
Now it seems I can only start the machine via SMC bypass (holding down power button while connecting PSU).
This means it starts all fans blazing...
So, I'd like to try and fix this, but before I go get a new battery, bound to go flat with no means to charge it, I need to work out what is wrong with the charging circuit.
I've taken the logic board out and given it a close scan, nothing obvious is wrong visually.
I locate the i 625 charging IC and associated components. I wonder if it could be a problem around the current sensing circuit perhaps.
Any pointers would be much appreciated. I guess I will need a new battery to verify any potential fix. Any easy way to resurrect a flat battery for testing purposes in the mean time. Unfortunately I don't have a similar type of mac for any parts swapping.
]i have this dead annoyig macbook air a1466 (820-3437)
It was liquid damaged, i restored g3hot, i then replaced the wled and polarizer now we have a very nearly full functional laptop.
Problem is small and therefore frustrating. keyboard and trackpad dont respond in OS. it always thinks there's a bluetooth keyboard installed and that means it disables internal trackpad and keyborad.
it does the same with the airport card removed. i figure it must be a dead resistor, capacitor or something on the logic board. Worst part is the trackpad and keyboard works at the os boot loader (where you select the drive you want to boot to)
Anyone have any idea's?
havent taken my multimeter to it yet but i imagine its not going to be an easy fix
I was curious if you ever got this figured out. I have the exact same problem on the same board. I replaced a couple resistors and got power and charging going again but as soon as it boots to the system the trackpad and keyboard go dead. I tested it with a new keyboard and trackpad.
After a bit of re-testing it turns out that yes, the magsafe I was using wasn't actually connected (probably the cable got loose from the wall-plug prongs), I tried with another cable and got different readings, I now have 16.85 in the magsafe V+ pins, as well as on the CHGR_ACIN. Sill no SMC_BC_ACOK though. There's no SMC_PM_G2_ENABLE and I believe that's because I have no PP3V3_S5 (or one of those, at least)
Would anybody give me a list of what should be working in order to get the SMC_PM_G2_ENABLE?
If you dont have 12V on battery fuse dont waste you time thinking in other lines or signals.
First check battery fuse 12V
check SDA and SCL lines in battery connector, 3.46v ( pin 4 and 6 )
you must have PP3V3_S5.... if you dont , its a good sign because its easier to fix.. See if u7200 is ok and has PPBUS_S5_HS_OTHER_ISNS after R5410(fuse)
Of course I had the 12V on the fuses; as I said earlier, the computer can actually turn on.
Also, after even further testing, here's what my measurements were:
Code:
Name Measurement Spec
ALWAYS ON
PPBUS_G3H 11.95V 12.8V
PPBUS_S5_HS_COMPUTING_ISNS 11.93V 12.8V
PPBUS_S5_HS_OTHER_ISNS N/A 18.5V
PPDCIN_G3H 16.8V 18.5V
PP3V42_G3H 3.46V 3.42V
PPVRTC_G3H 3.46V 3V
5V RAILS
PP5V_S5 0V 5V
PP5V_SUS 0V 5V
3.3V RAILS
PP3V3_S5 0V 3.3V
PP3V3_SUS 0V 3.3VBut, here's the interesting tidbit: After doing the SMC bypass procedure, the msissing 5V and 3.3V rails appeared. Both S0, SUS and S5. So, now I'm more convinced than ever that indeed, the issue is the SMC.
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I don't think that there will be a solid answer for this, but I'm going to try anyway...
I have an a1287 here now. I did an ASD and it passed everything. Issue is, the computer states that it is a LATE 2011 model, but the late 2011 ASD doesn't work, it stated it needed the early ASD, so I ran that test(both OS and EFI) and they both came back as passed. Now, background, there was some water damage. But everything seems to be running fine now(at one point the fan was blasting on high speed which it doesn't any longer). My issue now is, the batter isn't working. When booted the battery icon says "not batteries available"there is an X on the battery icon. The charger if unplugged, the computer will shut off. The charger stays green. the little button on the side to see battery power doesn't show ANYTHING. No lights at all. I have done both an SMC reset, as well as replaced the battery with a new one. What in your experience would this issue be? Anyone replaced the smc chip before? Is the chip a BGA?
I have an a1287 here now. I did an ASD and it passed everything. Issue is, the computer states that it is a LATE 2011 model, but the late 2011 ASD doesn't work, it stated it needed the early ASD, so I ran that test(both OS and EFI) and they both came back as passed. Now, background, there was some water damage. But everything seems to be running fine now(at one point the fan was blasting on high speed which it doesn't any longer). My issue now is, the batter isn't working. When booted the battery icon says "not batteries available"there is an X on the battery icon. The charger if unplugged, the computer will shut off. The charger stays green. the little button on the side to see battery power doesn't show ANYTHING. No lights at all. I have done both an SMC reset, as well as replaced the battery with a new one. What in your experience would this issue be? Anyone replaced the smc chip before? Is the chip a BGA?