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Old Nov 13, 2014, 12:58 PM   #3201
dellxps15
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Originally Posted by tiagobaracho View Post
Old batteries do have a high rate of self discharge... it can be just that....
the only way you could really be sure is connecting a power supply while all battery pins are connected but the positive... so you could make a comparison of the amps its draining....
Probably by probing you wont find any answer in this case..
I believe its the battery itself....
Have you tested to fully charge it and remove , wait 3 days and put back to see if it has drained ?
tnx for that suggestion. i'll try to put battery apart for some days. i was thinking in bad magsafe but before replace it let's try that.

any tips for the 820-2879?
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Old Nov 13, 2014, 04:39 PM   #3202
tiagobaracho
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Originally Posted by dellxps15 View Post
tnx for that suggestion. i'll try to put battery apart for some days. i was thinking in bad magsafe but before replace it let's try that.

any tips for the 820-2879?
bad magsafe board?? no no .. it would not cause that....
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Old Nov 14, 2014, 06:12 AM   #3203
dellxps15
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Originally Posted by tiagobaracho View Post
bad magsafe board?? no no .. it would not cause that....
tnx, ive noticed that when battery is connected in the info i have "battery capacity" to only 1433 mah and macbook tell me to change battery. it has 952 cycle.

maybe is there some battery reset or calibration to try before replace the battery ?

edit: ok ill make battery discharge then charge full to see if it will come back ok again. if not ill change the battery :

now main problem is the other 2879 u7000 chip problem and 12.5volt not ok... cant fix this unit from 1 year
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Old Nov 16, 2014, 12:55 AM   #3204
tiagobaracho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dellxps15 View Post
tnx, ive noticed that when battery is connected in the info i have "battery capacity" to only 1433 mah and macbook tell me to change battery. it has 952 cycle.

maybe is there some battery reset or calibration to try before replace the battery ?

edit: ok ill make battery discharge then charge full to see if it will come back ok again. if not ill change the battery :

now main problem is the other 2879 u7000 chip problem and 12.5volt not ok... cant fix this unit from 1 year
This is most probably your battery... 952 cycles is too much.. sometimes you have a 952 cycled battery that is ok and sometimes its bad..
1433mah says it all.. its bad... so it should have a high self discharge...

What the other problem? did not get it .. same macbook ? whats going on?
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Old Nov 16, 2014, 08:54 AM   #3205
dellxps15
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Originally Posted by tiagobaracho View Post
This is most probably your battery... 952 cycles is too much.. sometimes you have a 952 cycled battery that is ok and sometimes its bad..
1433mah says it all.. its bad... so it should have a high self discharge...

What the other problem? did not get it .. same macbook ? whats going on?
yes, finally it is the battery going to die. seller told me that battery got a good mah..

the other problem is a different macbook pro 13 core duo.

it has not 12.5volt on f7040, but only 1-6 3-9 volt oscillation.

i reported u7000 pins voltage. something must be bad as on pin 1 i have 9v instead of the 0v when all is ok..... 3.35volt on g3hot.

with u7000 installed i have no 3.3 volt. without u7000 i have 3.3 volt on coil.

i checked almost all resistors on that circuit and they are good...
changed also the 2 12.5 volt fet with same result.
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Old Nov 16, 2014, 10:48 PM   #3206
tiagobaracho
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Originally Posted by dellxps15 View Post
yes, finally it is the battery going to die. seller told me that battery got a good mah..

the other problem is a different macbook pro 13 core duo.

it has not 12.5volt on f7040, but only 1-6 3-9 volt oscillation.

i reported u7000 pins voltage. something must be bad as on pin 1 i have 9v instead of the 0v when all is ok..... 3.35volt on g3hot.

with u7000 installed i have no 3.3 volt. without u7000 i have 3.3 volt on coil.

i checked almost all resistors on that circuit and they are good...
changed also the 2 12.5 volt fet with same result.
This 12.5v is generated by the u7000 controlling a fet to operate a coil of the DC-DC BULK converter...
But to U7000 be able to do that, it has to talk to the SMC ... It can be a SMC issue too....
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Old Nov 19, 2014, 02:59 AM   #3207
greekhero
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How to detect G3Hot Short....?

Hello,

Is there an easy and concrete way to detect G3Hot (or others for that sake) shorting to ground?

I have a water damaged logicboard that doesn't power on using battery OR charger.

1. I have noticed that the Charger light is dim and it is almost in blinking state and voltage fluctuates between 2-16.5V.
2. There is NO G3Hot on the board. When powered with battery, I can see that the G3Hot power supply does get 11.x volts but its output is short to the ground.

Now how can I determine what is causing that short? There are about 10 capacitors, mostly 0402, in different plaecs on the board that connect to PP3V42_G3H and a bunch of components. I was ondering if there was an easy way for me to detect where the short may be? Or would I need to step-by-stop remove each part and test?

Any advice would be helpful!

Many thanks!
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 12:45 AM   #3208
tiagobaracho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greekhero View Post
Hello,

Is there an easy and concrete way to detect G3Hot (or others for that sake) shorting to ground?

I have a water damaged logicboard that doesn't power on using battery OR charger.

1. I have noticed that the Charger light is dim and it is almost in blinking state and voltage fluctuates between 2-16.5V.
2. There is NO G3Hot on the board. When powered with battery, I can see that the G3Hot power supply does get 11.x volts but its output is short to the ground.

Now how can I determine what is causing that short? There are about 10 capacitors, mostly 0402, in different plaecs on the board that connect to PP3V42_G3H and a bunch of components. I was ondering if there was an easy way for me to detect where the short may be? Or would I need to step-by-stop remove each part and test?

Any advice would be helpful!

Many thanks!
Well.. You need to use a powersupply on the output of the 3.42v coil and increase current until something get hot... this is why i have a thermal cam....
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 07:55 AM   #3209
dellxps15
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meanwhile i try to fix the 2 macbook board, i got a macbook air 13 inch core duo from a friend with this problem:

works fine from adapter. some month ago i changed him the battery because was dead.
now pc works ok with adapter, but if i disconnect adapter pc turn off sometimes immediately, sometimes after a bit.

if i look in battery information it say that everything is fine.

also i have noticed that when battery is at 70% (for example) it took up to 4 hours to get to 80%.

voltage at battery fuse is 8v (ok for a macbook air).

what could the the problem ?
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 08:16 AM   #3210
tiagobaracho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dellxps15 View Post
meanwhile i try to fix the 2 macbook board, i got a macbook air 13 inch core duo from a friend with this problem:

works fine from adapter. some month ago i changed him the battery because was dead.
now pc works ok with adapter, but if i disconnect adapter pc turn off sometimes immediately, sometimes after a bit.

if i look in battery information it say that everything is fine.

also i have noticed that when battery is at 70% (for example) it took up to 4 hours to get to 80%.

voltage at battery fuse is 8v (ok for a macbook air).

what could the the problem ?
Problems of this kind with battery can always be related to the charger ic( and capacitors and resistors around).... If you are seeing battery information it's probably not smc related...also check battery fets..... It's also possible it's the battery itselft..,, so check it too with another battery...
Check for corrosion, I had c2d MacBook Air with corrosion due to airflow.... There are very very tinny small resistors that does not handle dust / moisture well...
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Old Nov 20, 2014, 08:38 PM   #3211
jkoneal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiagobaracho View Post
Problems of this kind with battery can always be related to the charger ic( and capacitors and resistors around).... If you are seeing battery information it's probably not smc related...also check battery fets..... It's also possible it's the battery itselft..,, so check it too with another battery...
Check for corrosion, I had c2d MacBook Air with corrosion due to airflow.... There are very very tinny small resistors that does not handle dust / moisture well...
I have a Macbook Air Late 2010 with liquid damage. I had to change the keyboard backlight fuse. I have thoroughly cleaned with a brush and cleaning of electronic components. The board boots correctly. According AHT is entirely correct. But I have the magsafe dim light. Also, if it's off with magsafe connected flashes green / orange. All this with very dim light on the magsafe.

The battery has 2 of the 4 points marked in red, but not swollen. I do not detect battery voltage using the multimeter and the battery is not detected, it always appears that the battery is not installed (ISTAT, coconut, osx ... no battery detected).

Moreover, I found that the center pin magsafe gives 0V when connected, while others give 16,5V. The fuse next to the magsafe connector gives the same values on both sides, checked against ground. And there the fuse near the battery connector too.

Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol would do something? The little corrosion or coffee stain I saw was around components fuse blacklight. I cleaned it well and now I do not see anything below the micro chips and I do not know ...

But such schemes have no inscriptions on the plate and in the early polycarbonate MacBook, I can not follow the scheme ...

You could tell me where the others are and G3Hot recomendáis check. If solucionase asking for power / audio board the asking, but I feel that it is not so and I would check.

I reset the PRAM / NVRAM and as I have no keyboard yet (it's on the way ...), I have reset SMC disconnecting long the battery and pressing the keys and pins from power-on board, it seems that resets it. But do not know how to check 100%. Until you have keyboard I can see that somehow SMC reset?

Thank you very much for the help that you can give me and excuse my English.
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Old Yesterday, 09:30 PM   #3212
tiagobaracho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkoneal View Post
I have a Macbook Air Late 2010 with liquid damage. I had to change the keyboard backlight fuse. I have thoroughly cleaned with a brush and cleaning of electronic components. The board boots correctly. According AHT is entirely correct. But I have the magsafe dim light. Also, if it's off with magsafe connected flashes green / orange. All this with very dim light on the magsafe.

The battery has 2 of the 4 points marked in red, but not swollen. I do not detect battery voltage using the multimeter and the battery is not detected, it always appears that the battery is not installed (ISTAT, coconut, osx ... no battery detected).

Moreover, I found that the center pin magsafe gives 0V when connected, while others give 16,5V. The fuse next to the magsafe connector gives the same values on both sides, checked against ground. And there the fuse near the battery connector too.

Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol would do something? The little corrosion or coffee stain I saw was around components fuse blacklight. I cleaned it well and now I do not see anything below the micro chips and I do not know ...

But such schemes have no inscriptions on the plate and in the early polycarbonate MacBook, I can not follow the scheme ...

You could tell me where the others are and G3Hot recomendáis check. If solucionase asking for power / audio board the asking, but I feel that it is not so and I would check.

I reset the PRAM / NVRAM and as I have no keyboard yet (it's on the way ...), I have reset SMC disconnecting long the battery and pressing the keys and pins from power-on board, it seems that resets it. But do not know how to check 100%. Until you have keyboard I can see that somehow SMC reset?

Thank you very much for the help that you can give me and excuse my English.
hi man,, its seems to me as SMC issue... you probably have g3hot 3.42v but check if its not too far from 3.42...
SMC " talks" to the battery through the SDA line.. It also needs the SLC line to control this communication..... Maybe there is corrosion underneath the SMC or its simply bad..
Check of the SDA and SLC are being pulled up to 3.4v(sda) and pushed down(0v) the slc....

My best bet would be the SMC... But sure you have to test and check all capactiors related to the SDA and SLC line...
The water indicator on the battery does not matter too much because it could have only had contact outside... but you need to check the battery board if there is any corrosion...also, check each cell voltage...
Take a good luck on all bad solder because of the corrosion.. sometimes its so bad that the SMD component is there but there is no contact between itself and the pcb pads...
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