Kitchen looking good. Your wife's housekeeping skills, not so much.
I'll pass the word on and then run...
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Kitchen Remodel
- Thread starter Huntn
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
I'll pass the word on and then run...
I remember the good ole days when you could buy a big box of nails for about $4. Now an itty bitty box with of #12, 3" screws, 25 pieces in it cost $6.80 (at Lowes) about $.27 each... And they say there is no inflation. Hah. I might start shopping on line for stuff like this.
I might start shopping on line for stuff like this.
I remember the good ole days when you could buy a big box of nails for about $4. Now an itty bitty box with of #12, 3" screws, 25 pieces in it cost $6.80 (at Lowes) about $.27 each... And they say there is no inflation. Hah.
Look for a Fastenal store. They have good hardware in larger quantities.
I'll check. The problem of course is that if you need them, there is a good chance you need them today.
Thanks!
I've put up crown molding before, but has anyone done crown molding on kitchen cabinets? I'm wondering for outside corners, if the top edge corners are affixed to one another with glue or nailed or braced in the back?
Thanks!
Thanks!
nice remodel, looking good so far!
all the kitchens i've been involved in used glue/finish nails. i have seen back braces, but only on the pre-built high end stuff. all the installs i've done have been adding crown to standard cabinets, and have never used back braces as it's not going anywhere once installed, not getting bumped, etc. good place to hide the indirect lights or led rope lights, buts that's a different story.
dry fit to check the gap/match. mounted one (usually long side) on the cabinet, then applied the glue to the corner cut. i've used elmers wood and some highend woodworking hide glue, both about the same that i could tell. mount the other top while aligning the corner for a good fit, then nail from both directions. usually 2 in each way top and bottom. make sure to space the nails so they don't intersect and split the trim. wipe off the excess glue and secure with blue painters tape to keep the joint tight while the glue dries.
crown, sheesh what a headache. upside down and backwards... best of luck.
all the kitchens i've been involved in used glue/finish nails. i have seen back braces, but only on the pre-built high end stuff. all the installs i've done have been adding crown to standard cabinets, and have never used back braces as it's not going anywhere once installed, not getting bumped, etc. good place to hide the indirect lights or led rope lights, buts that's a different story.
dry fit to check the gap/match. mounted one (usually long side) on the cabinet, then applied the glue to the corner cut. i've used elmers wood and some highend woodworking hide glue, both about the same that i could tell. mount the other top while aligning the corner for a good fit, then nail from both directions. usually 2 in each way top and bottom. make sure to space the nails so they don't intersect and split the trim. wipe off the excess glue and secure with blue painters tape to keep the joint tight while the glue dries.
crown, sheesh what a headache. upside down and backwards...
best of luck.
I'll pass the word on and then run...
Living in the middle of a remodel can be tough. I remember when we did both bathrooms at the same time. Will NEVER do that again!!!!
We picked out a granite-looking laminate countertop for our kitchen. Looked through hundreds of samples to get just the right custom color. A few weeks later we were walking through a big-box home store and realized out of all those samples, we picked one of their stock colors!
all the kitchens i've been involved in used glue/finish nails. i have seen back braces, but only on the pre-built high end stuff. all the installs i've done have been adding crown to standard cabinets, and have never used back braces as it's not going anywhere once installed, not getting bumped, etc. good place to hide the indirect lights or led rope lights, buts that's a different story.
dry fit to check the gap/match. mounted one (usually long side) on the cabinet, then applied the glue to the corner cut. i've used elmers wood and some highend woodworking hide glue, both about the same that i could tell. mount the other top while aligning the corner for a good fit, then nail from both directions. usually 2 in each way top and bottom. make sure to space the nails so they don't intersect and split the trim. wipe off the excess glue and secure with blue painters tape to keep the joint tight while the glue dries.
crown, sheesh what a headache. upside down and backwards...
Thanks!
Based on my brother's suggestion, I bought some inexpensive crown molding to do some practice cuts on so I was sure of what I was doing before I started cutting the expensive stuff. That turned out worth it!
Kitchen Mural Up:
Consists of ceramic tiles with image baked on. This one is 18x24, but they have larger ones and as someone who has shopped for specialty tile lately, the price ($200) struck me as reasonable. Find more at: Pacifica Tile Art. The border is separate edge tile we found at a local tile store on clearnace for $1 each. Quite a deal as they can easily go for $6-10 each.
![KitchenMural.jpg]()
![KitchenMuralClose.jpg]()
Consists of ceramic tiles with image baked on. This one is 18x24, but they have larger ones and as someone who has shopped for specialty tile lately, the price ($200) struck me as reasonable. Find more at: Pacifica Tile Art. The border is separate edge tile we found at a local tile store on clearnace for $1 each. Quite a deal as they can easily go for $6-10 each.
Thanks for your interest!
I'm replacing pantry doors with ones with glass inlays. They will need to be painted. After that all of the major components of the remodel will be in place. I still have some small panels and trim that need installing.
Then I'll curse the so and sos who painted over wall paper, and the original builder who put up the wall paper without first sizing the walls. After that is removed, we'll either paint or wallpaper. Although I like the look of wall paper, I"m working hard at trying to talk my wife out of it. It seems to be out of fashion these days. Not that we are planning on selling anytime soon, but wallpaper is a minus and it's a lot more work than painting.
After that and when the kitchen has been cleaned up, I'll post some finished views. Have no idea of the time frame, maybe a month or two. I'm not spending long days "at it".
----------
all the kitchens i've been involved in used glue/finish nails. i have seen back braces, but only on the pre-built high end stuff. all the installs i've done have been adding crown to standard cabinets, and have never used back braces as it's not going anywhere once installed, not getting bumped, etc. good place to hide the indirect lights or led rope lights, buts that's a different story.
dry fit to check the gap/match. mounted one (usually long side) on the cabinet, then applied the glue to the corner cut. i've used elmers wood and some highend woodworking hide glue, both about the same that i could tell. mount the other top while aligning the corner for a good fit, then nail from both directions. usually 2 in each way top and bottom. make sure to space the nails so they don't intersect and split the trim. wipe off the excess glue and secure with blue painters tape to keep the joint tight while the glue dries.
crown, sheesh what a headache. upside down and backwards...
Based on my brother's suggestion, I bought some inexpensive crown molding to do some practice cuts on so I was sure of what I was doing before I started cutting the expensive stuff. That turned out worth it!
This proved to be well worth it. When dealing with expensive crown molding, it can turn into an expensive mistake quickly.
With a miter saw the crown molding is turned upside down and place at it's natural angle (based on the edges) and cut with the saw turned (not angled) to 45°. Some people use a miter box to hold the molding at the right angle, but I just slide it against the rear wall of the saw and held it in place while I cut. Got some nice tight seams.