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#26 | |||||
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The tools have evolved somewhat relative to computing power. Ideally you'd be able to access that entire range while a program like photoshop merely interprets it to display as gamma 2.2 Adobe RGB or sRGB or whatever else you choose (not opening that debate). It's not like your display can handle the number of values that would be needed to properly show something without heavy gamma correction. The fact that the most popular raw processors haven't come up with something like an export to 32 bit .EXR or .HDR probably means it's a niche request.
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#27 | |
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The default histogram is a representation of the RAW file in a 24-bit RGB color space, which means all the colors must fit within (255,255,255). Anything above that is clipped and is beyond the 24-bit color space and cannot be represented by that system. Since the final image is to be in 24-bit also, the histogram shows how the RAW file conforms to the 24-bit color space. You can see the RAW histogram which you pointed out in the expanded curves plot, which overlays the histogram over the curve for a visual representation of the curve edits. This can be done in Aperture, not sure about other editing programs.
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Last edited by Prodo123; Jan 7, 2013 at 11:17 PM. |
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#28 |
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Interesting... I need to explore this... here's the elephant's RAW histogram in Aperture using the extended curve range...
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#29 |
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Isn't the answer to your question simply that DSLRs don't display accurate data in their histograms? Perhaps there is a technical reason they don't do so (though I question this given the ability of Leica to do it in a monochrome sensor). Or it's just camera makers are lazy with their features, assuming that no one will notice or care. We should all bitch so the camera makers include a feature that is actually useful, like histograms that actually reflect what the sensors are seeing
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To the prettiest one. Last edited by kallisti; Jan 8, 2013 at 12:16 AM. |
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#30 | |
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#31 |
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I get what you're saying, but honestly not in the field. It's best to avoid "recovering" over exposed images even with RAW. Just because it can be recovered doesn't mean it will look good. All your color info will be different then a properly exposed image.Think of the JPEG histogram as a "safe zone". If you stay inside that, minus some off subject specular highlights or shadows, you'll have a lot more room once those images get to post.
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#32 |
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Forgive my ignorance here, but wouldn't it be possible to have the individual histograms representing each color channel actually display the RAW data available for that channel? Not talking about a combined histogram.
I got burned several years ago while shooting pink/red flowers in Hawaii on a Nikon body. The meter showed an adequate exposure. The histogram showed an adequate exposure (this was on a body that only displayed a white "overall" histogram--i.e. the green channel). The actual image was completely blown out with no details present. I learned my lesson and started viewing the individual color channel histograms once I got a body that could display that info. The ability to view individual color channels on the histogram is a huge improvement. The fact that they are based on an in-camera JPG and not the actual RAW data is...strange. I agree with the idea that the histogram should serve as a "safe zone." However, I think it is more useful to have a true sense of what is present in the RAW data as this can impact exposure decisions at the time of capture.
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To the prettiest one. Last edited by kallisti; Jan 8, 2013 at 05:05 PM. |
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#33 | |
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If you're in a high contrast situation then it's always best to plan ahead (if possible) and shoot some bracket exposures. The other to do is ask yourself "will this under, or over, exposed section of the photo take away from the subject". If the sun and specular highlights are clipping, but my subject is properly exposed does it really take away from the photo? Most of time the answer will be "no". This will always be a choice that you'll have to make not matter how good your histogram is.
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#34 | |
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As an example, here is an image of the D800 display from an image of the red cover of my iPad. ![]() Note that even though the combined white channel shows some highlight clipping ("blinkies" on upper left only), the red channel is completely blown out, far out of proportion to what the "combined" channel would suggest (if you look for "blinkies" when viewing the red channel, the entire cover is blown out). Since the subject is red, there is actually no usable detail here and the image is horribly over exposed. The meter was fooled and if you were basing exposure on the combined histogram you wouldn't have known this.
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To the prettiest one. Last edited by kallisti; Jan 8, 2013 at 06:27 PM. |
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#35 |
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You got me questioning myself. Luckily I had my camera next to me for testing. The shape looks similar, but you can see that they are in fact different. Maybe it's just my camera, but if my old Canon XTi has it and your Nikon D800 doesn't then yikes! Somebody call Nikon quick!
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#36 | |
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While there will be some difference between a RAW and JPEG histogram of the same image they should be pretty close to identical. An 8-bit red of 255 will be darn close to a 14-bit value of 16380. As for the difference in the channels, the "white" histogram is a mapping of tonal values. So that peak you see is what happens when you add up the red, green and blue channels. The individual channels might show crazy variances like your example but the actual tones when combined result in a curve that spans the middle of the graph. The auto exposure in modern cameras is pretty darn amazing but it still doesn't match millions of years of evolution. In certain cases the camera will think it is doing a good job but one particular channel might be blow out. Sometimes the only way to get around this is to bracket the shot with multiple exposures. Overall this has been a good thread and has had me thinking through some of the details of what is going on. This is a good thing as the more you understand the process the better you will be able to get exactly what you want.
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#37 | |
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This is true for every Nikon digital body I have owned. Can't speak for Canon (though from what I've read it applies there as well). Shoot a red subject without other colors present and see what your histograms show. At least on Nikon bodies, the combined histogram isn't an accurate reflection (i.e. a summation) of the data from each channel. (1) it is based on an in-camera JPG rather than RAW sensor data (2) it is biased towards the green channel This has implications when basing exposure on the image histogram (the "combined" channel can be misleading, especially if shooting a largely red subject) and the individual channels may not accurately reflect usable data that the sensor is actually seeing.
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To the prettiest one. |
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#38 | ||
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I don't know about the newer or the lower end Nikon SLRs but mine does what you are asking for. ---------- Quote:
I used to have a Nikon D50 and it only had the white histogram. I guess when you buy a camera this is one more thing to look for |
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#39 | |
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I may have misspoken. After going back through my photo library, it was a Nikon D300 and I can't remember if it had the ability to look at individual color channels or not. If it did, at the time I was inexperienced and assumed that the combined "white" channel was truly reflective of the overall exposure. It wasn't and I got burned. On a series of shots of pink/red flowers, the camera meter showed correct exposure and the white histogram didn't show highlight clipping. The resulting images were horribly over exposed and not usable. Lesson learned. When shooting red subjects on a Nikon, don't trust the in-camera meter.
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To the prettiest one. Last edited by kallisti; Jan 8, 2013 at 09:05 PM. |
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#40 | |
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Levels on the left= Shadows, middle= mids, and right= highlights. The height of the levels shows you the amount of information in that area. If the highlight levels are pushed up against the left side with no gap that is showing you that some highlights are blown out (in the case a good chunk). Pushed against the right side and that shadows will be crushed (in this case there's a gap there so you're good). The height of the level shows how much detail there is at any given part of the image (the higher the peak the more detail). So lets break down this photo of your cover. If I'm looking at the combined histogram I can see that there's a good chunk of highlights (right side) that are slammed against the edge. So at that point I know you're over exposed and you'll need to compensate by a couple of stops. At this point you could look at the red channel and see that it's mostly red highlights that are clipping, but that doesn't really matter because we already know from the combined histogram that it's clipping and needs to be adjusted. Where the separate histogram a really come into play is for white balance. If you shoot a grey card they should all be aligned almost perfectly if you have the correct white balance. If your grey card is all over the place then you know that you need to fine tune it. Again, not trying to be a jerk. Just trying to help out best I can. Hope this clarifies things. ![]() Taking a good look at things my "combined" histogram is listed on my camera as "brightness" so this is probably only showing the luminance of the image and not all the colour details. Chances are it's the same with your Nikon.
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13" White Macbook, 4 GB RAM, 500GB HD, 22" external monitor, 320 GB Firewire scratch disc, 2 TB partitioned expansion/backup HD; iPad 2, 64 GB, 3G; iPhone 4S, 16 GB. Last edited by kevinfulton.ca; Jan 8, 2013 at 09:13 PM. |
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#41 | |
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The argument relates to the algorithms involved in how digital cameras determine proper exposure via their built-in meters (and display that information in histograms which are intended to help the photographer at the time of image capture). It's an argument about technical issues relating to how camera hardware/software actually works which may not jive with how we assume it should work. Not an argument about the basics of photographic technique/post-processing. To be blunt: Nikon camera bodies (and possibly bodies from other manufacturers) completely blow when metering red subjects. They tend to over-expose in these circumstances. I invoked an anecdotal example from years ago with a D300 body. I provided an actual example off-the-cuff with my D800 showing this problem still exists. Red subjects confuse the metering system on Nikon bodies (and possibly Canons?). What the histograms I provided are showing is that the camera thinks it is giving a "good" exposure while in reality it is completely screwing up when faced with a red subject The result is horrible over-exposure. This is kind of a reverse example of what the OP started this thread about--histograms don't display accurate information.
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To the prettiest one. Last edited by kallisti; Jan 8, 2013 at 11:33 PM. |
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#42 | |
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#43 |
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So to re-iterate, my point is that although the red channel appears completely blown out in this histogram, the fact is, it was probably not actually clipped by the sensor. Something we can't possibly know without looking at a histogram of the RAW data. It would be nice to know by looking at a RAW histogram if the red channel really was clipped by the sensor so you could retake the photo to eliminate clipping, or just leave it and recover it with a modified curve in post if it was not clipped. Without a RAW histogram, all you can do is be safe and retake the photo based on this histogram, lowering the exposure to ensure the red channel is not blown but in doing so, under expose the other channels, possibly introducing unnecessary noise in the process. Not ideal... especially if you're trying to address a problem that's not there. I don't think anyone can argue that having the option of a RAW histogram is a bad thing. It may not be helpful in all cases, but in this case, and in any high dynamic range situation, it would be great to be armed with as much information about your exposure as possible.
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#44 | |
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I'm repeating myself. And I'm kicking myself for getting drawn into this exchange. I've said what I wanted to say. Hopefully some will find it helpful.
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To the prettiest one. |
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#45 | |
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Here's the picture of your cameras histogram (or maybe it's not and that's one of the things I missed). The red arrow is pointing to a peak that shows all the detail in the mid tones of the standard histogram, which are NOT clipping. The green is pointing to the highlight levels on the standard histogram which ARE clipping and will cause the over exposure you're talking about (you can see how they're pushed against the right wall). Are you suggesting that it should be read the other way around? (This is what I thought might have been going on) OR were you saying that, even though the standard histogram is showing that there is a good amount of clipping that it's far worse then displayed because of Nikon's red issues? If it's the second one then I apologize BIG TIME (over top of my existing apology ), because I was just not picking that up. It's probably because it may be more of a Nikon thing so I never experienced or heard of such an issue. For the record I wasn't putting anybody down for having a super expensive body that has said issue (I'd love to have one myself), but it really does suck that Nikon hasn't addressed it. Hopefully a firmware update can eventually fix it if that's what's happening.Trust me that I'm not a snotty guy trying to rope anybody into anything because he's got nothing better to do. This is probably just a case of misunderstanding. Nothing more. I'm trying to help and or learn, not infuriate.
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#46 | |
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THis is still a pretty good exposure tool once you learn to read it. The RGB histogram is very useful. But then I used to be able to shoot decent exposures based on just reading the inside of the box that the film came it. It said in bright sunlight to shoot at 1/(film speed) at f/16 and that works perfectly and then it said to open up one stop for clouds. Those instructions still work with dSLRs. |
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#47 |
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Okay, will attempt to address both issues that are running through this thread.
(1) issue raised in the OP--why are highlights appearing blown out on the histogram but actually have detail when viewing the RAW data of the image. (2) the standard histogram isn't displaying accurate information regarding exposure, specifically relating to the red channel. ![]() Note that the common channel reflects an adequate exposure with only a little bit blown out on the right. The red channel shows that quite a bit more of the image is actually blown out and since the subject is red (well, orange in this case), the red channel is actually over-exposed. For this color image it isn't a major problem, but if you were going to convert this to B&W and use the red channel for your source channel, you would notice the over-exposure. Note well that all of these comments are based on the histogram displayed by the camera (which is based on a JPG). It does *not* relate to the actual data captured by the sensor. Here is the histogram displayed in Aperture based on the RAW data from the camera: ![]() Note that the red channel isn't actually blown out and there is usable information there. Note further that there really isn't significant clipping at all. Had I captured this image as a JPG, then all of my above comments would be valid. Because I shot in RAW, none of them actually apply. You could use the red channel for a B&W conversion--there is usable detail there. I will state again that the camera histogram is based on a JPG and *not* the RAW data. So the information displayed on the in-camera histogram does not reflect what the sensor actually captured. Also, the histogram is biased towards the green channel, which in some circumstances can cause problems when shooting red (or possibly even blue) subjects. In this example, the camera actually obtained correct exposure even though the individual histograms might not have shown this. There are other cases in my experience where the camera actually missed exposure and clipped the reds even in the RAW data. Bottom line--you can't trust the histogram on the camera. This may also serve as an example of why it is better to shoot in RAW.
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To the prettiest one. Last edited by kallisti; Jan 10, 2013 at 02:01 PM. |
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#48 | |
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#49 | |
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![]() The issue is a very real issue though. It can be frustrating to take the time to "chimp" and view camera histograms after taking an image with the assumption that the histograms are displaying accurate information that allows you to adjust subsequent exposures based on what you see in the histograms (either the combined channel or individual channels). It's annoying (to put it mildly) that the histograms aren't displaying the actual information available to the sensor. If you are shooting in JPG you are set, and what you see is what you get. However, there is more information available to the sensors that you capture when shooting RAW. The histograms don't show you this though. Flaw in almost all modern bodies, with the only exception to my knowledge at the time of this post being the Lieca M Monochrom.
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To the prettiest one. |
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#50 | |
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