You seriously think that just by talking to them for 2 days and asking alot of questions you can be sure you didn't buy a stolen laptop? Your most important question (the only one important actually) was left unanswered - proof of purchase. Good luck with your laptop, it's probably stolen (no, but seriously, you get my point).
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
My Craigslist Nightmare
- Thread starter Type R
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
You seriously think that just by talking to them for 2 days and asking alot of questions you can be sure you didn't buy a stolen laptop? Your most important question (the only one important actually) was left unanswered - proof of purchase. Good luck with your laptop, it's probably stolen (no, but seriously, you get my point).
Oops! Sorry.. it's NOT a stolen one. I just went to Apple store to get AppleCare. Everything is PERFECT!
Well, this is what we call "shopping online", right!?
You can't be sure in everything you buy online especially from the third-party websites unless you buy it from Apple. But at least you ask the seller instead of 'blindly-buy' it....
And I just wanted to share MY online-shopping experience and gave advices. I think you should just ignore my comment or give a better advice to people instead of argue with me...
Well, this is what we call "shopping online", right!?
You can't be sure in everything you buy online especially from the third-party websites unless you buy it from Apple. But at least you ask the seller instead of 'blindly-buy' it....
And I just wanted to share MY online-shopping experience and gave advices. I think you should just ignore my comment or give a better advice to people instead of argue with me...
You can still get Apple Care on a stolen item. I'm not trying to pick on you, just saying that your arguments are invalid.
From your first post, it sounds like you're saying that "if you just talk to the guy for a few days, everything is ok and you really don't need some sort of proof of purchase". In your second post you're saying that "as long as you are able to get Apple Care, you're fine, it's not possible for the item to be stolen". Both of which statements are wrong and could get someone in the very same trouble the OP got in.
I can't really speak about buying things on Clist; I've tried to shop for cars on there after a deer decided I shouldn't be driving a Ford Tempo, and the experience I had was a mostly positive one. Then again, if we meet to see your 2000 Mitsubishi, I would automatically use the "Bring-A-Buddy" system to prevent any scams (mine happen to be former auto mechanics 
)
The story does smack of trolling; the lengthy post and no resolution; this thread is as bad as reading a mystery novel and finding out the last 10 pages are missing! The OLD adage is true that, if something is too good to be true, it probably is. I work in Electronics retail and a man came in with a story about buying an iPad in Clist only to find out it was a stolen item. Here are some tips we gave him:
DEMAND A NAME: social media and public records are amazing tools to find out if your seller is a fink or not. My iPad customer (after the fact) searched Facebook and found out the young man was complaining of an upcoming court date. Also, the customer did a public records search and found a lengthy rap sheet on this guy. If he's honest, he'll have no problem giving you his name (and yours in return) so you can check on him.
BE IN THE OPEN: if you want to set up a meet and don't employ the Bring-A-Buddy system, don't meet at his place or yours. Go to a Starbucks or McDonalds and meet; it may look a little suspicious to people going through the drive-thru, but you will be out in the open in a populated area, and the seller (if they are intent on scamming you)will be much less likely to show up or scam you.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK: Serial numbers don't always spell STOLEN. I constantly have to remind my parents to keep their receipts and serial numbers in a safe place so that, if the items are stolen, they can report the serial numbers to law enforcement. However, this may not be the case with all people. Granny Smith didn't record her serial number on her iPad, and when it was stolen, there was no way to verify any items recovered were actually hers. Check your local police reporting system (here in Wisconsin we have the CrimeStoppers) and see if anything has been stolen in the past month or two. Of course, if you're in NYC or San Francisco, this may be a little too much legwork for you to do. Still, doing some homework now will ensure that you pass the class later.
BRING-A-BUDDY: I may sound cliché, but the simple buddy system prevents many a scam (or assault/robbery). Ask a friend to come with you when you meet the seller. Better still if you bring a friend who's an expert with the product you're buying. In my scenario, I am terrible with cars. My dad and brother, however, are trained auto mechanics; so not only do they come with me to make sure nothing happens, they are also there to check the car itself and tell me if its a lemon or not. If you aren't good with laptops or tablets, bring a friend who is.
CHECK THE BOX: I'm sure you've all heard it: the guy buys a Nintendo DS for his son, the son starts it up and finds porn on there. A woman buys an iPad for a "great price" and finds out there are rocks in the box instead of an iPad (don't ask me, I don't know how they can be so dumb). Before handing over ANY money, check the box and product. Ask the seller if they can fire it up so you can see it in action. Doing this now will keep you off the Craigslist Most Stupid Buyer list later...
IF IT'S STOLEN: stop talking on the damn phone and go to the police. NOW. Giving up the item sooner rather than later will certainly keep you out of prison or at the least expensive court/legal costs. Also, you may be able to luck out and keep the item if you assist law enforcement; it is possible the owner has it insured and has already been reimbursed, meaning you can keep it. Also, the police are more interested in getting you to help them, instead of making you yet another target for an arrest and court case.
My humble opinions... Take them or leave them. Only here to help
Jake
)The story does smack of trolling; the lengthy post and no resolution; this thread is as bad as reading a mystery novel and finding out the last 10 pages are missing! The OLD adage is true that, if something is too good to be true, it probably is. I work in Electronics retail and a man came in with a story about buying an iPad in Clist only to find out it was a stolen item. Here are some tips we gave him:
DEMAND A NAME: social media and public records are amazing tools to find out if your seller is a fink or not. My iPad customer (after the fact) searched Facebook and found out the young man was complaining of an upcoming court date. Also, the customer did a public records search and found a lengthy rap sheet on this guy. If he's honest, he'll have no problem giving you his name (and yours in return) so you can check on him.
BE IN THE OPEN: if you want to set up a meet and don't employ the Bring-A-Buddy system, don't meet at his place or yours. Go to a Starbucks or McDonalds and meet; it may look a little suspicious to people going through the drive-thru, but you will be out in the open in a populated area, and the seller (if they are intent on scamming you)will be much less likely to show up or scam you.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK: Serial numbers don't always spell STOLEN. I constantly have to remind my parents to keep their receipts and serial numbers in a safe place so that, if the items are stolen, they can report the serial numbers to law enforcement. However, this may not be the case with all people. Granny Smith didn't record her serial number on her iPad, and when it was stolen, there was no way to verify any items recovered were actually hers. Check your local police reporting system (here in Wisconsin we have the CrimeStoppers) and see if anything has been stolen in the past month or two. Of course, if you're in NYC or San Francisco, this may be a little too much legwork for you to do. Still, doing some homework now will ensure that you pass the class later.
BRING-A-BUDDY: I may sound cliché, but the simple buddy system prevents many a scam (or assault/robbery). Ask a friend to come with you when you meet the seller. Better still if you bring a friend who's an expert with the product you're buying. In my scenario, I am terrible with cars. My dad and brother, however, are trained auto mechanics; so not only do they come with me to make sure nothing happens, they are also there to check the car itself and tell me if its a lemon or not. If you aren't good with laptops or tablets, bring a friend who is.
CHECK THE BOX: I'm sure you've all heard it: the guy buys a Nintendo DS for his son, the son starts it up and finds porn on there. A woman buys an iPad for a "great price" and finds out there are rocks in the box instead of an iPad (don't ask me, I don't know how they can be so dumb). Before handing over ANY money, check the box and product. Ask the seller if they can fire it up so you can see it in action. Doing this now will keep you off the Craigslist Most Stupid Buyer list later...
IF IT'S STOLEN: stop talking on the damn phone and go to the police. NOW. Giving up the item sooner rather than later will certainly keep you out of prison or at the least expensive court/legal costs. Also, you may be able to luck out and keep the item if you assist law enforcement; it is possible the owner has it insured and has already been reimbursed, meaning you can keep it. Also, the police are more interested in getting you to help them, instead of making you yet another target for an arrest and court case.
My humble opinions... Take them or leave them. Only here to help
Jake
If he wasn't charged already, I think the OP should be charged with stealing. . . 30 minutes of my life that I am never getting back because I got sucked into reading the friggin thread.