Any pool players here?

Discussion in 'Community' started by 5300cs, Apr 2, 2005.

  1. 5300cs macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #1
    Is anyone here a pool shark? :)

    I've been playing for about 8 years now (if not more) and I love the game. Playing in Japan is different than playing in the States. For one, almost no one knows how to play 8 ball. :eek: Don't even THINK about straight pool :rolleyes: No, the game of choice over here is 9 ball (which I don't really like.) Pool halls are pretty cool though. After people are done on their table, the staff comes and wipes them down (the table AND the rails) then polishes the balls and puts them in the tray in NUMERICAL ORDER :eek: :D Gotta love it. One thing I don't like is the absence of carpeting in most places, which makes it louder and when someone drops a cue it wakes up the whole neighborhood.

    Getting to the point though :rolleyes: I cannot seem to do draw shots anymore. Follow (top) I have no problem with, and English I have no trouble with, but I cannot do draw shots to save my life. I've tried different bridges (open & closed) and different cue heights on the ball, but even when I follow through the cue ball either stops dead or rolls back 2 inches then stops.

    Any pros out there want to give me some tips? :)
     
  2. BakedBeans macrumors 68040

    BakedBeans

    Joined:
    May 6, 2004
    Location:
    What's Your Favorite Posish
    #2
    straight and firm through the bottom of the ball, dont snatch at!

    its the easiest thing in the world :)
     
  3. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #3
    Come on, only 2 people shoot stick on this whole board??? :confused:
     
  4. groovebuster macrumors 65816

    groovebuster

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2002
    Location:
    3rd rock from the sun...
    #4
    I used to play pool every weekend a few years ago...

    But then with kids I just didn't find the time anymore. Last year I was just trying again an evening I was meeting with a friend in a pub. Man, I suck now!!!! :(

    Didn't play again since then... it's too depressing...

    groovebuster
     
  5. krimson macrumors 65816

    krimson

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2003
    Location:
    Democratic People's Republic of Kalifornia
    #5
    Seems like you know how, but you aren't getting it.. I've seen it where people will snap the cue down after it strikes the cue ball. What you want is a firm strike adjusting for height vs distance you want drawn.

    i think that's what you're asking.
     
  6. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #6
    Yeah, I know how to do it, I just can't do it :mad:

    If the distance between the cue ball and object ball is short, I can make a draw shot (judging how far it will draw back is another story.) If the distance is longer between the 2 balls, that's when I have problems. Sometimes on 'fast' tables I can do it, but on slower ones, no way.

    I think it may be my bridge, which would suck since I've been playing for like 8 years now. I don't know if I want to be re-evaluating something like that so late in the game.

    When I shoot, I stroke right through the ball, without pulling back afterwards. I'm pretty sure that's the right way to do it. Also if one hits too low on the cue ball it'll jump (which is a foul.) Too high on the ball and it becomes a stop-ball.
     
  7. krimson macrumors 65816

    krimson

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2003
    Location:
    Democratic People's Republic of Kalifornia
    #7
    i dont use a full stroke through, more of a half stroke. I've been told that's not the proper way, but it works for me... though, i stopped playing seriously about 5 years ago.
     
  8. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #8
    I think I was giving it too much stick. I moved back a little bit and followede through and have been getting better results.

    The place I go to regularly has brutal tables though; really slow and super narrow pockets. It'll make me a better player ...or make me quit :D
     
  9. Sun Baked macrumors G5

    Sun Baked

    Joined:
    May 19, 2002
    #9
    Well, the rest of us might be playing a slightly different game. One that would tend to draw this thread off into an unexpected direction.
     
  10. benbondu macrumors regular

    Joined:
    Jul 2, 2004
    #10
    I'm not a pro.

    For me, once I concentrated on keeping the cue level when I did a draw shot, I had much more success. A level cue is the most vital part of a draw shot. Any downward movement in the cue acts to drive the ball into the table and increases the chances of deflection. With a level cue (and enough chalk--emphasize be liberal with the chalk) you can strike the ball much lower (without the cue ball hopping) than if you're jacked up a little. Zero degrees isn't usually possible, but minimizing downward movement is the goal. After you have a level cue, see how low you can hit the ball without causing deflection. The lower you strike, the more draw you transfer with the same amount of force. You shouldn't need a lot of force to get some very significant draw.

    Maybe it's just the slow tables. If they're really slow then there might not be much you can do to overcome the friction between the ball and the table. If other people in the hall are drawing like mad though, it's probably not just the tables.

    I'd just practice until you get the feel again. There's not really much to teach with a draw shot. Most books on pool shots spend about 3 sentences on it, giving it equal attention as the follow shot. Aim low, aim level, follow through.
     
  11. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #11
    I've been doing that, and I think I've found it again. The hardest part is hitting a draw shot down the length of the table. I've also switched to a closed-hand bridge, which seems to give me straight shots 99% of the time.

    The place I usually play is a 'comic cafe'. Comic books, darts, computers; it's like an internet cafe with pool tables upstairs. The tables aren't in the best condition (slow, like I said) and the people that go there just whack the balls around for an hour then leave. I've only met 1 other good player there :( It's about $1 for 15 minutes though, which is cheap, so I go there the most. Like I said, those tables will improve my aim (I think they have already) or make me quit.
     
  12. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #12
    I'm gonna be totally honest: I have no idea what you are talking about.

    This is totally retarded; a thread about bowling gets over 15 responses, yet this one gets like, almost none. http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=119035 :rolleyes: *sigh*
     
  13. apilotguy macrumors newbie

    apilotguy

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2005
    #13
    A few things that might help.

    I still shoot pool quite a bit. I currently use a Meucci which gets a tremendous amount of english and draw. Especially on a smaller table (bar tables). Draw is the main technique that I use for positioning the cue ball for my next shot. You should definately follow through but that does not mean that you have to follow through as though you would for a longer shot. For my draw shots I typically use shorter firmer and quick follow thru so that I have time to move the stick before the ball draws back into it (but check to make sure that you do not pull the cue when you do it). Alot of it depends on your bridge distance from the tip of the stick to your hand. The closer the bridge to the tip the more accurate you will be but the less the stick will bend and help add cue action or draw. The farther your bridge is from the tip then the more action of the cue tip you will get and the more draw. Practice with different hand placements and see what works best for you. I typically use around 6 inches but sometimes this varies depending on the amount I want to draw. I can draw the length of the table easily on a nice table. Hope this helps.
     
  14. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #14
    Thanks for the advice. I'm doing something similar and it seems to be helping ... at least, on fast tables; I'm still struggling with the slow tables near my house. I think I've been hitting too high on the cue ball, I need to be hitting lower. It also helps to keep my eye on the cue ball when hitting to make sure I don't shank it by accident.

    On a side note, I got a really nice cue yesterday, a McDermott D-24 from about 1985. I went to a store downtown that sold cues and on a whim asked if they had any McDermotts. The guy pulled 3 out of a box that had been sitting there for 20 years :eek: :eek: Real inlay, nice Irish linen wrap, and an ivory ferule :eek: McDermott's site lists as being worth about $385 in mint condition: McDermott time capsule
     
  15. apilotguy macrumors newbie

    apilotguy

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2005
    #15
    No problem I hope it helps. I read your last post and noticed that you said that you watch the cue ball. If you can help it try to avoid watching the cue ball because that is a hard habit to break and it is a nasty one. There are alot of things that it can throw off in your game. You should always look thru the cue ball and into the contact ball. Once you become acustomed to it then your shots will be more accurate and consistant. You can check it as many times as you need but try to watch the contact ball. If you practice looking at the contact ball instead you will be able to see any problems with your stroke and correct for it. I have a great book on shooting pool somewhere and I will try to find it and let you know the name of it. It really contained an amazing amount of help and thru reading it I realized alot of my own flaws and was able to correct them.

    By the way congrats on getting yourself a nice cue. It will help you stay consistant. One thing that can help even on a nice stick is to place a permanent dot on the tip and whenever you shoot make sure that it is always pointing straight up. This way even if there is the ever so slightest bend or inconsistancy on the shaft that you will always be shooting the exact same way.

    Well good luck and sounds like you are one the right track.
     
  16. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #16
    Thanks, here's a pic if you're interested: [​IMG]

    I'm trying to keep my eye on the object ball, but I have to get used to a new cue first ;)
     
  17. Steve Johnson macrumors newbie

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2005
    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    #17
    McDermott D-24

    Your McDermott is a pretty stick :). I have a custom D-24 but am using a Predator shaft on it. Would you be interested in selling yours? Does it have any dings on it? Is it straight? I can see that it has been chalked so it is not in mint condition but would be interested in it anyway.

    My e-mail address is sjohnson@cerroflow.com
     
  18. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #18
    Thanks!

    Since I just bought it though, no I'm not thinking of selling it. Anyway I live in Japan ;)

    Now that school has started again I'm finding less time to play ... :(
     
  19. evoluzione macrumors 68010

    evoluzione

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2002
    Location:
    down the road, that's where i'll always be
    #19
    i'm no pro, but i love to play down the pub. i just can't stand the cues they always have though. i grew up messing around on snooker and pool tables (um, no not like that ;) ) and had a cue with an 8mm (or 10mm maybe) tip so using these 13mm tips is horrible. i still get an ok amount of control, but not nearly as much as my cue.

    i did get roped into a league game at the pub once, as the team was a player short. managed to sink one off the break, then 4 more in quick succession, beat the opposition easily. don't know why i didn't carry on...

    oh, also, the tables here (NYC) and home (England) are so much different! much bigger pockets here :) which helps me i guess as i was used to the smaller English ones. and btw, i've never heard the term "English" in England when referring to "spin"
     
  20. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #20
    Yeah, "left English" and "right English" are what you'd call left spin and right spin. From what I've read an Englishman was the first to apply "spin" to a cue ball so it's called "English."
    Some others:
    "carom"="canon"
    "Nominate a pocket"="call a pocket"
    "Pot a ball"="sink/drop/pocket a ball"
    I say "follow" instead of "top" and either "bottom" or "draw".
    There also seems to be some confusion between masse shots and "swerve shots".

    Can anyone here masse? I can :D
     
  21. krimson macrumors 65816

    krimson

    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2003
    Location:
    Democratic People's Republic of Kalifornia
    #21

    I can, but most of the halls here dont allow it, something about cues ripping the felt.... :rolleyes:
     
  22. Steve Johnson macrumors newbie

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2005
    Location:
    Missouri, USA
    #22
    Looking to buy . . . . . .

    School has a way of taking away good pool shooting time. :D You had indicated you purchased your D-24 from three offered in a store.

    Perhaps they would sell overseas? I guess it would be easier to have another one made in Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin :confused:

    If anyone hears of a McDermott D-24 for sale, please email me.

    Respectfully,

    Steve
     
  23. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #23
    Well, the store had 3, but mine was in the best condition. 1 had a crooked bumper and the other had a crack in the joint.
    The only damage to mine was this:
    [​IMG]
    (also the wrap is bumpy in places from the tape used to hold the price tag for so many years.)

    I mentioned it to the owner and he knocked off another $50 from the price. The original price was around $1500, then to $900, then to $450 and finally $400 (no one would buy it.) From what I've heard, McDermott cues aren't that popular in Japan. The Japanese prefer a hard shaft over a soft one, so Adam and Mezz cues are the most popular.

    If you're ever in Japan, drop me a line and I'll show you the place. It's full of old cues :cool:
     
  24. Deefuzz macrumors 6502a

    Deefuzz

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2004
    Location:
    St. Louis, MO
    #24
    I love pool, though I am not very good at it, and barely ever get the chance to play. I used to do ok at bars while in college, and I would love to get back into it.

    Now comes the dumb question, which is something I never understood even when I "played":

    What is the purpose of chalking a cue? I never really got it, or knew how that could benefit my shot...I had enough problems just trying to figure out shots sometimes.
     
  25. 5300cs thread starter macrumors 68000

    5300cs

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2002
    Location:
    japan
    #25
    The chalk adds friction between the ball and the tip. Without it there's a chance of "miscuing" (sp?). That's when you hit the ball and it goes PLICK and the ball moves 2 inches (in the wrong direction) and stops.
     

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