Double bypass surgery!! Experts only!!

Discussion in 'Apple Collectors' started by Bobdude161, Sep 11, 2006.

  1. Bobdude161 macrumors 65816

    Bobdude161

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    N'Albany, Indiana
    #1
    Got a G3/233 All-in-One and so far I have swapped out the motherboard for an over-clocked 300 Mhz from a beige G3. Cake.

    Now here comes the VERY hard part. Swapping out the old monitor for a relatively newer VGA Compaq 15 inch monitor by hooking up the cable from the Compaq tube to the back of the AIO. I already threw out the old AIO monitor (was broken and I discharged it for saftey blahblahblah....) and checked dimensions on the mount points on both monitor and AIO. Perfect fit, virtually that is. Problem is the board for the Compaq monitor will not fit by half an inch vertically. And another problem is even though I threw out the old tube, the AIO is still giving me clicks. Like a *Click-click* *click-click* every 5 seconds. Like it's still trying to turn a monitor on and off.

    So after that briefing I have a few questions.

    1. Inside the tube casing of the AIO, on the left, is that the power supply? That's where the noise is coming from. And can I swap it out for an aftermarket one?

    2. What is the board on the right for? I know it was used to hook up the tube but I have most of the wires disconnected (the ones that were attached to the tube) but does it have any use if it won't be using it's original monitor? I need to free up space.

    3. Is this completely ridiculous? Not that your opinion matters, just a thought. ;)

    Thank you.
     
  2. topicolo macrumors 68000

    topicolo

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2002
    Location:
    Ottawa, ON
    #2
    are you sure the clicking isn't coming from the hard drive? Usually it's a sign of death...
     
  3. Bobdude161 thread starter macrumors 65816

    Bobdude161

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    N'Albany, Indiana
    #3
    I did a quick check. The video board makes the click first and then the power supply makes a click back. So it's the faulty video board that is causing the click. Should I totally remove it since I'm gonna use the Compaq's board?
     
  4. ReanimationLP macrumors 68030

    ReanimationLP

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2005
    Location:
    On the moon.
    #4
    I dont think these suckers will work without that external monitor. I dunno. :confused:
     
  5. madmax_2069 macrumors 6502a

    madmax_2069

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2005
    Location:
    Springfield Ohio
    #5
    yea the PSU in the AIO supplys the power to the monitor which is one of the click's the other click is the analog board. the clicking is hapening cause the video hardware is seeing the analog board and is trying to turn it on but cant cause there is nothing hooked to it.

    there is 2 connections that goes to the monitor and analog board one is the gray cable with 3 or 4 wires on it and there is some video signals on that IDE looking cable that both connect to the personality card. along with the video signals some of those wires also supply sound to the internal speakers and to the internal mic and to the front board. when standing in front of the AIO the PSU is on the right and the analog board is on the left the flyback transformer is mounted on the analog board.

    im not shure how your going to shoehorn that stuff in there, like the monitors PSU and board i my self would attempt to get a 15inch LCD to try this mod with its much easyer and will allow you the room to do stuff inside. the biggest problem is going to be getting power to the new CRT cause i dont know a way to shoehorn the power connections fron the AIO's PSU.

    you can do a LCD swap in these with no problem at all . these Beige G3's will use a ATX PSU but swiching a little jumper on the mobo by one of the PCI slots.

    all you did was swap out a Beige G3 mobo with a Beige G3 mobo with a faster cpu. the mobo's in all Beige G3's are the same MT DT and AIO sept the onboard video and rom chip. the rev 1 mobo has the slower Rage II and the rev 2 mobo has the faster Rage Pro and the rev 3 has the rage pro turbo. there is also 3 diffrent rom chips. there is rev a b and c, rev b and c are better.

    even this here

    http://shanecurd.com/qube2/aio.htm there is a bit of info on what connections are for the monitor

    i my self own and use a Beige G3 AIO with a G3 450mhz cpu out of a B&W OCed at 466 due to the 66mhz system bus. a 120gb hdd , 448mb ram, the 4mb vram upgrade for the onboard video to make it 6mb vram, a ATI radeon 7000 Mac edition PCI, Pioneer DVR-110D i use a external monitor on my Radeon 7000 and use the onboard video with the internal monitor.

    when my CRT goes out im going to try to put a LCD in place of the CRT. im my eyes going LCD would be a easier route to take.

    you have already ran into one problem wuth the internals of that monitor not fitting. i dont know if you could use crt with the exsisting hardware in the AIO or not , more than likely not but there is alway a way
     
  6. Bobdude161 thread starter macrumors 65816

    Bobdude161

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2006
    Location:
    N'Albany, Indiana
    #6
    Yeah the CRT replacement didn't quite work out. :eek: The analog board from the compaq almost fits but sticks out a few millimeters. Also I'm sure I damaged the internals of the monitor beyond any use. But it was quite the experiment. Thank God Junk-out day is in a couple of months (for the monitor).

    Yeah my original plan was to swap it out for an LCD like this, except not so ****ty. I had a spare 15 inch around the house and just gave it a try.

    But your AIO is setup is my dream vintage Mac. I'd like to do all that stuff, but right now I'm low on dough. I have to find a decent 15 inch LCD first before i start anything else. Maybe give it a good paint job to get rid of the yellowing. BTW do you know how to get the yellowing out of the transparent plastics?
     
  7. madmax_2069 macrumors 6502a

    madmax_2069

    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2005
    Location:
    Springfield Ohio
    #7
    you can try 90%-99% rubbing alcohol on the clear parts (i know it will remove sharpie marks). mabe try a bit on the other parts. dont try it all over the place just in a spot to see if it will work. for the removing yellowing you need to use 33% peroxide (not the cheap everyday peroxide) and let it sit out in the sun but you need to keep it wet with the peroxide or it will get uneven marks. you can use cheese cloth soaked in the peroxide and press the cloth over the part (it needs to touch all of the said part to work properly) and sit it out in the sun. the reaction will whiten the plastic . just keep a close eye on it to your desired effect.

    yea when my crt goes i will be looking for a LCD to replacethe stock CRT in the ole beast. BTW did you see that web site i linked to. that would be a nice little mod to do with the LCD mod to bypass the onboard video so you can get better proformance in OS X
     

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