I just did this on the used Mac Mini I'm building for my wife, upgrading her to 64GB. It took about 12 minutes, start to finish, believe it or not, and worked absolutely fine the first try.
A couple of tips that the guides don't mention are in order. First, having the right tools is absolutely key, and cannot be overemphasized. The tool kit I use was like $15 on eBay (brand name Kaladium) but came with all the tiny Torx screws and the prybar spudger that you will use several times. In this era of miniaturized *everything*, these kits are pretty much required issue. Mine even came with a little magnetic mat to keep all the screws sorted. It also was gently magnetized, which is key for keeping several of the screws from falling off the driver and disappearing into the guts of the machine. Second, patience and a gentle touch are very much in order. These were intended to be very robust, but those little connectors really don't take much force to mate and demate: don't force them.
I'm a EE who has been playing with Mac guts since the original toaster, and a working product designer who deals with these little connectors every day. They are the most daunting part of the job, but Apple has gone out of their way to make this easy (unlike, say, replacing the wifi module in a Mac Pro...). The power connector removes by pulling straight up, but the little U.fl coax connector for the antenna, the fan connector, and the LED connector all want to release by being lifted off at a very small angle applied from the wire end. The spudger will slip under the wire end and let you gently snap them off.
When reassembling, the genius of the Apple mechanical designers becomes apparent. The logic board seats beautifully flush with a quiet click. No click? It's probably because you have the LED connector trapped by the end of the board (as I did). Pull the board back out and untrap the cable. I would also recommend reconnecting the LED and fan connectors before screwing the logic board down, for this reason. Hindsight...
The fan and LED connectors want to go together at about a 30deg angle, and then snap down by pressing gently on the wire end.
Let Apple make putting the U.fl antenna connector back on easy for you. Install the screw back into the bracket with the connector loose, and only engage it one turn. You want it to hold the alignment, not to clamp it down yet. You can then feel the connector back into the perfect spot, and it will snap in with a straight push down. Then, you tighten the clamp screw down all the way.
The teeny connectors all snap together with the same, very light force. The Hirose power connector, on the other hand, is a beast, and requires more tugging and mashing. Just make sure that the force is perpendicular to the board.
It is worth doing for yourself, IMNSHO, if only to treat yourself by buying and keeping the tools. Just one nerd's opinion...