Maybe this was for more complex setups?
I know I recently had to set up a wireless network at a convention center for a show, and we strung multiple Airport Extremes (5th. generation models) around the place as "extenders" to the primary unit, to get enough signal coverage.
I had some issues with the iOS utility not detecting all of them properly in that arrangement.... Generally, the units with ethernet cables wired between them would show up fine, but wireless extenders were hit and miss.
I think I wound up using the utility on my Macbook Pro to get one of them configured when the iOS one on my phone just refused to see it. (After it was set up, I think it finally appears in the iOS utility though.)
Anyway, I completely agree that Apple taking away advanced features stinks.... I believe the new ac routers don't even let you configure SNMP on them anymore.