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Installed SSD and blade SSD, now there are stripes down my screen
- Thread starter thepiks
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i have had this problem before,
if the images where out of place it would be a software issue,
definitely the indicator hear is the grey out on the screen, showing somewhere between the GPU out and the display one of the data lanes is crossing over to the other, giving off the interference and greying out the screen.
personally i think you have given off a static discharge while installing the bale SSD.
if thats the case you can easily cover it up, just say the screen went out one day (could of been a bit of dust) and put it back to gather the best you can.
to be honest; i don't think their is any way to prove you opened it i found a long strand of hair when i opened mine up
if the images where out of place it would be a software issue,
definitely the indicator hear is the grey out on the screen, showing somewhere between the GPU out and the display one of the data lanes is crossing over to the other, giving off the interference and greying out the screen.
personally i think you have given off a static discharge while installing the bale SSD.
if thats the case you can easily cover it up, just say the screen went out one day (could of been a bit of dust) and put it back to gather the best you can.
to be honest; i don't think their is any way to prove you opened it i found a long strand of hair when i opened mine up
I've completely disassembled it and reassembled it again, insuring all cables are perfectly aligned and in the right spot. Everything seems to be fine and hooked up correctly. Still the display looks like the picture.
questions:
1) could the blade ssd cause this?
2) Is it worth trying a new vcld(sp) cord before taking it in to Apple?
You need to fix this, the folks at Apple are trained to look for systems that have been opened.
The easiest way to test if it's the LVDS cable is to wiggle the cable/reposition it and see if the pattern changes. I used to test this with it plugged in being VERY careful, but you can check by unplugging it, moving the cable about, and plugging it back in.
If it does move/change, it's the LVDS. If it doesn't move - it's going to be the LCD. That issue isn't going to be caused by interference or the graphics card.
If I were you - I'd take it to Apple, explain what's happened, and ask them to do an OOW repair. An LVDS cable is about £10 + labour - if it turns out to be the LCD you're looking at about £400.
If it does move/change, it's the LVDS. If it doesn't move - it's going to be the LCD. That issue isn't going to be caused by interference or the graphics card.
If I were you - I'd take it to Apple, explain what's happened, and ask them to do an OOW repair. An LVDS cable is about £10 + labour - if it turns out to be the LCD you're looking at about £400.
I totally disagree.
Put the original hard drive in and se if it still does it.
If its a new iMac. I'd just call up Apple if you got it online and tell them its faulty.
Likewise if its from a store just tell them and get it replaced.
I really don't concern myself about the warranty validity when there are plenty of faulty iMacs around.
Put the original hard drive in and se if it still does it.
If its a new iMac. I'd just call up Apple if you got it online and tell them its faulty.
Likewise if its from a store just tell them and get it replaced.
I really don't concern myself about the warranty validity when there are plenty of faulty iMacs around.
I opened up a 2010 iMac and put my own SSD in. Took the SSD out and returned the iMac a week later. They didn't check to see if it was opened at all.
Then again I didn't break anything.
but your screen was not glued one , but with magnets
To the OP the over clockers mantra " you broke it you take the hurt "
Looks like you have tweaked the screen whilst removing it, or given it a shock.
If those blocks were all grey, I would say connection, cable problem - but it looks like you have a pink line in there too, which signals a damaged display (to me anyway).
As someone else has said, hook up a second display and see what happens. This will help you diagnose the fault.
If those blocks were all grey, I would say connection, cable problem - but it looks like you have a pink line in there too, which signals a damaged display (to me anyway).
As someone else has said, hook up a second display and see what happens. This will help you diagnose the fault.
Of course it could!
That would be the first thing I would do when I re-opened the case. Remove any new drives you installed and put the original drive back in and power it up to check the display. Then add the new drives back one-at-a-time to see if/when the problem reappears.
Also, make sure your RAM memory is seated properly.
-howard
Previous generations had 3 connections for the LCD: the DisplayPort cable (what everyone is referring to as the LVDS cable) the backlight/power connector and the vertical sync cable. The verticle sync cable is a super fragile ribbon cable that plugs into the machine's power supply. You might check to see if this model has a v-sync cable and if it is plugged in. The behavior of the screen is most likely a damaged DisplayPort cable (LVDS); usually the screen just produces a high-pitched whine and jitters a little if the v-sync cable is damaged, but it's good to check.
It's also a good idea to take a magnifying glass to the DP (LVDS) cable and its socket. the pins are tiny and damage is easy to miss.
Good luck!
It's also a good idea to take a magnifying glass to the DP (LVDS) cable and its socket. the pins are tiny and damage is easy to miss.
Good luck!
agreed! I'm gonna have to just tell Apple what happened, hopfully it wont be 1000 to fix =/
thanks for the info guys!
The Regular SSD install takes around 15 mins as the blade takes an hour, might be something to think about when attempting this. If i were to do it again, Id just install a vertex 4 512gb
i was thinking about it..but i need the space...since i already run a ssd and hard drive combo in my 2011. I will just wait a bit longer until the tape and proper tools become available
out of interest did you put it back to stock and test again ?
and did you wiggle the cables around while its powered up ?
and did you wiggle the cables around while its powered up ?
What a sad tale.
The OP now owns a brand new and broken iMac.
Whether the damaged was caused by the OP or the failure is a coincidence; the computer is no longer covered by the Apple warranty--as well it should not be, the moment this person opened the machine, Apple was free of responsibility for workmanship.
Unfortunate, yes. A foreseeable, potential, situation to be sure.
The OP now owns a brand new and broken iMac.
Whether the damaged was caused by the OP or the failure is a coincidence; the computer is no longer covered by the Apple warranty--as well it should not be, the moment this person opened the machine, Apple was free of responsibility for workmanship.
Unfortunate, yes. A foreseeable, potential, situation to be sure.
I would not take that bet with someone else's money.
Apple knows Customer Service . . . and we know what we pay for their products.
My suggestion would be not take it to Apple, but to an independent Apple dealer/authorized repair entity, assuming there is one close to you. If available, they present a much better and easier repair process. In addition it is good to retain a good relationship with an independent source, as no one will care about self hd or ram installation, your drive can typically be removed and a loaner will be provided to you by this entity should your unit have to be sent to Apple.
In my case (2011 2.8 13 mbp) I have installed crucial 256 ssd w/16ram, later connected to a tb 27 cd causing the display to go black for a second or two with heavier loads. 30 inch cd works flawlessly via apple tb dual dvi adapter. This problem was duplicated with other tb 27 cd, main mbp board was replaced by apple and the problem continues. Any advice? Is the mbp 2011 video card too weak to drive the tb display?
In my case (2011 2.8 13 mbp) I have installed crucial 256 ssd w/16ram, later connected to a tb 27 cd causing the display to go black for a second or two with heavier loads. 30 inch cd works flawlessly via apple tb dual dvi adapter. This problem was duplicated with other tb 27 cd, main mbp board was replaced by apple and the problem continues. Any advice? Is the mbp 2011 video card too weak to drive the tb display?