Best UPS for MAC Pro Tower

[Mattww]

I'll say it again: SWITCHED TYPE of UPS Inverter = ZERO NOISE when running from the mains. Absolutely none. You'll only hear the thing when the power drops below it's minimum rated voltage (changes taps on the transformer to pick up the output voltage on the UPS), or the power goes out completely.

The "figure of 8" statement means absolutely nothing to me.

The closest thing I can think of, is you've a mix of UK and EU plugs, and I've no idea as to which (wall, UPS's built-in plugs, and devices that will be plugged into the UPS).

But I read the previous post as the power plug of the UPS was the issue (EU rather than UK), which would be EASILY solved by getting the correct IEC power cable.

Where I can see a challenge, is if the UPS has EU plugs rather than UK plugs. It should be possible to swap out the plugs, but you'd need to know what you're doing. Much easier to get a bunch of EU - UK adapters for each device in such a situation IMO.

Thanks for the explaination about noise, I see I was worrying about nothing.

With the lead issue I mean devices with a DC PSU come with this:

http://www.cables-leads.co.uk/media...94a9c230972d/p/o/power-uk-plug-figure-8_1.jpg

 

[alphaod]

I have an APC SUA1500; works great and I can run my Mac Pro, monitor, router, and modem for about 30 minutes before the power dies. This is adequate for almost anything. It's outputs pure sine, so it's an excellent unit. The replacement batteries aren't a rip off either.

 

[hexblot]

I've been using APC Smart UPSs for years now, across a number of workstations, and I've never been dissapointed -- in my mind, if you are willing to cough up the amount needed for a good machine, it's extremely negligent to not cough up to protect it from external factors.

However, I haven't seen the most important aspect of UPSs addressed in this forum - that is, what type of UPS? There are 3, switched, line interactive, and online UPSs.

Switched does absolutely nothing while it detects normal voltage. When it detects a problem, it switches to battery. The problem with this is that it takes a (very short) time, in which you have no power, and there has been some talk that that accumulates in your computer hardware.

Online UPSs work pretty much like laptop batteries - your wall socket charges the batteries, and your computer works from the batteries at all times. Batteries don't last too long this way, comparatively.

Last category are the line interactive ones. These are the most complex in their design - there is a circuit that gets powered from both batteries and wall socket, and can allow power from both at the same time. It doesn't have the switching time of switched UPSs, or the constant drain of the online ones. It's the only category that can actually only supplement power if your powerlines drop their voltage for an instant ( very common where I live ).


Long story short -- if you can, get a good line interactive UPS All of mine have been completely silent ( APC SmartUPSs ), and have only required battery changes after (many!) years of continuous usage.

 

[nanofrog]

Thanks for the explanation about noise, I see I was worrying about nothing.

NP.

With the lead issue I mean devices with a DC PSU come with this:

http://www.cables-leads.co.uk/media...94a9c230972d/p/o/power-uk-plug-figure-8_1.jpg

OK, now I know what plug end you're talking about (C7 device plug).

But I still don't get why this is an issue, as that's used by the particular device, not the wall plug or on the UPS itself. So how is the C7 end an issue?

However, I haven't seen the most important aspect of UPSs addressed in this forum - that is, what type of UPS? There are 3, switched, line interactive, and online UPSs.

It's been covered in other threads, though it's not part of the Title (usually a response to a "will this UPS work" thread).

Wiki has a good page on the different types, as does vendors such as APC. Of the various types, and Online/Double Conversion unit is always the best to have, but you pay a pretty penny for one (no transients due to switching as no switching is ever performed - it's always running off of the batteries + inverter).

So for cost purposes combined with a decent amount of protection, a line interactive with a "Pure Sine Wave" inverter is a good compromise (these also include an AVR, which is a transformer with multiple secondary outputs to keep the voltage as close to the wall as possible when there's a voltage drop, but not enough to trigger the batteries + inverter).

I see these types as the bare minimum, as they won't damage Active PFC based PSU's, which is what a lot of systems are now running in order to meet power usage compliance, such as Energy Star.

 

[Mattww]

NP.
OK, now I know what plug end you're talking about (C7 device plug).

But I still don't get why this is an issue, as that's used by the particular device, not the wall plug or on the UPS itself. So how is the C7 end an issue?

I assumed that as most UPS units don't have a UK plug socket on them that the UK plug to C7 cable would need replacing with a cable that has a C7 at one end and the IEC C14 at the other - this doesn't seem to be a common cable.

 

[nanofrog]

I assumed that as most UPS units don't have a UK plug socket on them that the UK plug to C7 cable would need replacing with a cable that has a C7 at one end and the IEC C14 at the other - this doesn't seem to be a common cable.

If you buy a UPS meant for the UK market, it will have UK plugs on the back.

Now depending on what you buy and from where, it's possible you may end up with an EU version rather than a UK model. The difference, would be that the plugs would be wrong (both input to the wall and the output sockets in the UPS itself).

This can be gotten around via plug adapters, but it's additional cost and a PITA. So it's recommended to be sure it's a model meant for the UK market (best to get it from a UK supplier).

Hope this clears things up.

 

[Bwa]

I was very worried about noise when I bought my Smart-UPS 2200. I am happy to say that it sounds totally quiet to me, even with my ear next to it. It is quieter than my RS-1500s were when running on battery. The self-test switching it does from time to time is loud and surprising, but that's about once a month that I notice it (I have no idea how often it happens).

 

[Mattww]

For a similar price I can get either a refurbished APC SUA1500i with new batteries:

http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=sua1500i

or a brand new CyberPower CP1350EAV

http://eu.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups_systems/intelligent/cp1350eavrlcd.htm

The APC offers more headroom but no passthrough for Ethernet and only C13 connectors so I'll need to find a way of connecting the PSUs of my accessories (USB Hub, external HD etc.). The CyberPower has two UK plug sockets for easier connectivity and Ethernet passthrough, plus looks modern but they seem to only offer a few of their range in the UK so ongoing support could be an issue.

Any recommendations?

 

[DanielCoffey]

For your LOW power devices such as routers etc, put them on a 4-way extension strip as usual and replace the strip's 3-pin plug with the appropriate kettle lead plug to go into the UPS. Maplin sell them.

Never put a laser printer on your UPS as they have too high a startup draw.

 

[nanofrog]

For a similar price I can get either a refurbished APC SUA1500i with new batteries

This one will work, and there are cables to make it work.

Examples:

• IEC-320-C14 to IEC-320-C13
• http://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-Power-c...LYE8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1330929681&sr=8-7

I'd expect the UPS to come with some of the latter cables, but as a refurbished unit, it may not. You also have the ability to go for different lengths if needed (just do not exceed the current capability of the cord, UPS, or wall outlet it's connected to).

or a brand new CyberPower CP1350EAV

This one is NOT suitable (wrong type of inverter). CyberPower doesn't make the PWM controlled unit with UK plugs (should have ...PFC... in the model number).

Just standard EU plugs, so you'd need adapters to feed your devices, and the correct IEC to UK mains cord for the UPS itself.

You'd have to check on price, but if it were really tested, I expect the APC would be more durable/reliable than the CyberPower (I own both brands). APC's replacement batteries are also inexpensive and easy to get vs. other brands in my experience, but I've not yet had to replace them in a CyberPower (both under 1yr old, while I've been running APC for years).

Your choice, but keep in mind that it's more than used v. new, and initial price tag (figure on replacing batteries every 3 years, and using the unit for 10). And in the case of the CyberPower, it may not last that long (no idea; it may prove to be as good or better than the APC).

Hope this helps.

 

[Mattww]

[*]http://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-Power-c...LYE8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1330929681&sr=8-7

Thank you both Nanofrog & DanielCoffey! That is just what I need - I can then plug a multiway extension in and connect all my small, low power devices.

Guess I'll skip the CyberPower and go for the APC now, you are right that they seem to only offer a very limited number of units for the UK market.

 

[nanofrog]

Thank you both Nanofrog & DanielCoffey! That is just what I need - I can then plug a multiway extension in and connect all my small, low power devices.

Yes, you can use a power strip on the back of the UPS for small draw items (simple strip).

But all you need to run is the computer, monitor, internet device (DOCSIS, DSL,... modem), and maybe a router/switch (depending your network equipment and how it's setup). Skip attaching any printer to the UPS, especially if it's a laser.

The point is to reduce the power consumption when you are running off of the batteries in order to give you the longest run-time possible.

PS. The batteries wear over time = hold less of a charge as they age, eventually requiring replacement. Typically takes 3 - 5 years, but figure on 3.

Guess I'll skip the CyberPower and go for the APC now, you are right that they seem to only offer a very limited number of units for the UK market.

Unfortunately, the UK market is just too small.

 

[Mattww]

Well guys I was all about to buy one of the refurbished APC SUA1500I models but I then read that only the early models are actual silent on mains power. Later models (including unfortunately the one I was going to buy after contacting the seller) keep the fan running on low all the time. See this thread:

http://www.apc-forums.com/message.jspa?messageID=14466

As I sleep about 1m away and the room is silent at night when the Mac Pro is sleeping an always on fan is a really a no go.

I can get the 1000VA version (SUA1000i) instead which apparently does't have a fan but although I have no doubt the 670W quoted will be OK in general use I'm not sure it would cover the in rush current on wake from sleep or a cold boot. I have read that this and the preference for a Sine Wave with these modern PSUs seem to be the biggest issues for use with a Mac Pro.

For reference I currently have a 2009 Mac Pro 8-Core 2.26GHz with Radeon 5870, SSD, four SATA HDs, a 20" Cinema Display (60W), Powered USB Hub and Logitech Z5500 Speakers. The only bits I would anticipate upgrading later would be maybe the graphics card, adding another HD or getting a larger monitor instead. I envisage my next Mac Pro (fingers crossed they keep making these great machines) would perhaps be more energy efficient as that is the way things are headed in general.

 

[DanielCoffey]

When you have the UPS on, it does make a faint background noise as the capacitors do their stuff.

If it is in a bedroom, you will get quite a start if the power dips in the night and it clicks on to the batteries for a moment.

 

[Mattww]

When you have the UPS on, it does make a faint background noise as the capacitors do their stuff.

If it is in a bedroom, you will get quite a start if the power dips in the night and it clicks on to the batteries for a moment.

I don't mind noise waking me if there is a power cut - I can make sure it shutsdown OK. It just needs to be effectively silent when there is normal supply and my Mac is asleep.

I see you are using a 1000VA unit and I imagine your machine would draw a similar amount - can you wake it from sleep without issue?

 

[DanielCoffey]

Yup, it is fine waking. The load indicator for my UPS which has the MP, display, VirginMedia SuperHub and router runs at about 40-45% load when awake and about 5-9% when idle. I have never had any wake from sleep issues.

 

[Mattww]

Received my reconditoned 1000VA smart UPS and so far so good - it is quite a bit longer that my old Belkin unit but still fits under the desk.

I get 2 (of 5) lights when the computer is idling jumping to 3 with slightly more demanding tasks. I haven't tried anything that pushes all the processors cores yet but it looks like there should be enough headroom based on this. Startup and wake from sleep both worked OK.

Best of all the unit is effectively silent which is great!

Thank you all for the advise.

 

[PycYkyc]

Guys, some of the Eaton UPSs are compliant with MacOS: 3S & 5PX as well as the Ellipse Eco, Ellipse MAX and Evolution. I personally use Ellipse MAX (http://upsplace.com.au/Line-Interactive/Square-Wave-Output/Eaton-Ellipse-MAX-UPS) for my Mac Pro and it gives me plenty of back-up time when required . It also gives me an option to safely shutdown when mains power fails for long time

You can read more from: http://pqsoftware.eaton.com/manual/...mentationPowerManagementMACOSX104_105_106.pdf

 

[sngraphics]

We have 2 APC UPS's here in our office.
On one side we have the Smart-UPS 1000 powering our telephones, fax(MFP), one iMac 27" (2009) and the occasional MBP 15".
On the other side we have a Back-UPS 1500RS powering a Mac Pro 2009, 2 x 24" Monitors, a scanner and an Epson 7900.
After reading this thread I got a little worried about my MacPro.
We have drops in power all the time and my Mac Pro has always stayed on with no noises or anything else happening.
(Used to have a Smart-Ups on the Mac Pro but it died and just used the 1500RS because it was an extra)
I started looking for a Smart-Ups for the side of the office with the Mac Pro immediately after reading all these posts.
But when I noticed the prices I thought I would write in to ask first if I could just switch the 2 models.
Just needed to know if the iMac would have any issues running off the Back-Ups 1500RS?
Also If the Smart-Ups 1000 is OK for the Mac Pro?

 

[slughead]

I've used a lot of them, mostly the cheapest ones. Of the more inexpensive ones, Costco sells some awesome products.

 

[bj97301]

APC works for me:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842101343

 

[nanofrog]

Be careful with the cheap ones guys, as they can damage Active PFC based PSU's, which is what the MP's use.

BackUPS from APC, and the inexpensive Eatons linked are such units (has to do with how the inverter works, as cheap stepped inverters reach too high a voltage than the PSU can handle). It can be misleading due to averaging, but it's the peak values that do the damage (and this only occurs when running off of the battery).

 

[ScottishCaptain]

Be careful with the cheap ones guys, as they can damage Active PFC based PSU's, which is what the MP's use.

Citation please?

I have heard this several times now, and I've never been able to find any proof of it at all.

In fact, the only thing I have heard is that in rare cases a stepped sine wave could cause an APFC PSU to shut down, but no mentions of damage.

-SC

 

[sngraphics]

What type of power supply does an iMac 2009 have?
(And in general any iMac from 2009 up to present)
Do they use Active PFC based PSUs?
Is it safe to run the iMac off a Back-UPS 1500RS?

 

[nanofrog]

Citation please?

I have heard this several times now, and I've never been able to find any proof of it at all.

You asked for it....

Take a look here. In particular, Figure 1, where you'll notice 3 steps. What's critical, is the middle step of each group, as it has the largest voltage value. Now this is important as it can exceed 400V, which is more than the PSU can handle. Thus damage occurs over time (rate/extent will depend on how long the PSU is exposed to this waveform, as the damage is cumulative).

Look at it this way; say the input voltage has a max of 240V. The RMS value of that is the (SQRT 2)*240V = (1.414)*240V = ~339V. But it's being slammed with 400V+ (seen as high as ~470V at the peak value off of an inverter output <notice the spike on the leading edge of each "step" in figure 1>), which is more than it can handle. Now do you think this is a good thing, and something the PSU can actually handle?

Common sense is No, and it will kill an Active PFC based PSU if it's exposed to such voltages for a sufficient amount of time (blows the input capacitors, which at best, only come in up to 450V working voltage ratings; you don't want the input to be near the working voltage either, in order to give something known as Head Room for voltage fluctuations/spikes).

Yes, they can add in protection circuits to prevent this, but unfortunately, to make price points or to increase their margins, these additional circuits may not exist in a particular APFC PSU. Nor is it a good idea to assume that Apple is using the best PSU's available in the MacPro (they aren't from those I've seen).

In fact, the only thing I have heard is that in rare cases a stepped sine wave could cause an APFC PSU to shut down, but no mentions of damage.

As per the shut down, it has to do with the amount of time the UPS can deliver the voltage under the PSU's load at that time. So when the voltage can't be sustained, the PSU "sees" it as no power (zero to output timing).