The Car Mod Thread...

[MatthewLTL]

Well the last (and probably final for the 2015 year) mod has been done...... LED Daytime Running Lights!

Passenger side Switchback wired up. The wire runs through a pre-drilled hole in the core support and down to factory harness behind the bumper.

Wire runs along the factory wire harness behind the bumper and over to the driver's side. the hole on the driver's side was occupied by a support clip for the hood release cable so i ran it behind the headlight and into the driver's side switchback where a second wire feeds both LEDs with power.

Second wire running to the fuse box.

Originally I powered the LEDs off the Fuel Pump Relay, but decided this was a bad idea. I instead used the Power Window relay, since the car has nothing using this circuit i didn't think any harm can come. the solid-core wire was stuck throu the hole on the 87 pin then seated back in. the LEDs now come on once the ignition is switched to ON and turn off as the car is in START then back on again once the car is running.

 

[Grey Beard]

With the Pope and his entourage in the country, have you considered having your fleet of cars being blessed?

KGB

 

[bunnspecial]

The MG I'm planning on buying is basically a done deal-it's just waiting for me to get the time to go up and get it.

With that in mind, I've already been rolling over some mods that I want to do.

After tires(which are 10 years old), the first and immediate thing is the shift knob. I thought about a carbon fiber "look" knob , but instead have settled on more of an original style. I'm wavering between these two

I'm actually leaning toward the leather one, as most of the rest of the interior of the car is black leather/vinyl. I'd need a full leather shift boot to match with either knob.

Along those same lines, the stock steering wheel has seen better days. I'm weighing a couple of options, as illustrated below

"C" is actually a near perfect match for the stock wheel, but higher quality. I like the look of 3-spoke wood such as "A" or "B", but tend to prefer a thicker wheel and am concerned about how I would handle such a wheel-especially with the lack of power steering(the stock wheel isn't bad). I also like the idea of a larger diameter wheel, except that my 6'2" self has enough trouble getting in with the stock 14" wheel and I suspect a 15" wouldn't make that any easier.

Finally, this wouldn't be an immediate change(due to cost) but something that I definitely want to do.

Fortunately, the tire size is the same as the steel wheels currently on the car, so I wouldn't have to re-buy tires. All I'd have to do is drop another $30 a piece or so on a set of inner tubes, as these particular(OEM style) wire wheels are not tubeless.

Any thoughts on any of the above? Again, these are proposed changes, not actual changes-especially since it will likely be a week or so before the car is actually in my possession.

 

[Apple fanboy]

The MG I'm planning on buying is basically a done deal-it's just waiting for me to get the time to go up and get it.

With that in mind, I've already been rolling over some mods that I want to do.

After tires(which are 10 years old), the first and immediate thing is the shift knob. I thought about a carbon fiber "look" knob , but instead have settled on more of an original style. I'm wavering between these two

View attachment 584030 View attachment 584031

I'm actually leaning toward the leather one, as most of the rest of the interior of the car is black leather/vinyl. I'd need a full leather shift boot to match with either knob.

Along those same lines, the stock steering wheel has seen better days. I'm weighing a couple of options, as illustrated below

View attachment 584032

"C" is actually a near perfect match for the stock wheel, but higher quality. I like the look of 3-spoke wood such as "A" or "B", but tend to prefer a thicker wheel and am concerned about how I would handle such a wheel-especially with the lack of power steering(the stock wheel isn't bad). I also like the idea of a larger diameter wheel, except that my 6'2" self has enough trouble getting in with the stock 14" wheel and I suspect a 15" wouldn't make that any easier.

Finally, this wouldn't be an immediate change(due to cost) but something that I definitely want to do.

View attachment 584033

Fortunately, the tire size is the same as the steel wheels currently on the car, so I wouldn't have to re-buy tires. All I'd have to do is drop another $30 a piece or so on a set of inner tubes, as these particular(OEM style) wire wheels are not tubeless.

Any thoughts on any of the above? Again, these are proposed changes, not actual changes-especially since it will likely be a week or so before the car is actually in my possession.

Skip the steering wheel and gear knob and go straight for the rims! I'm a sucker for wire rims. Beautiful.

 

[bunnspecial]

Skip the steering wheel and gear knob and go straight for the rims! I'm a sucker for wire rims. Beautiful.

Unfortunately, we're talking an order of magnitude cost difference between the two. The knob is ~$30 for a good quality one, and the wheel ~$200(less if I can find a used one that someone else didn't like).

A wire wheel conversion is going to run $2000-2500 just for the hardware-that depends on whether I want painted(like the originals) or chrome(IMO, looks better). That's for the complete kit-5 wheels, 4 knock-offs, and a set of splines. I could go the used route, but don't know enough to discern "good" used wheels from bad ones. The splines are a wear point, and putting wheels with worn splines on new hub splines, or the other way around, is a good way to destroy both plus it's a huge safety issue.

Once I actually get the wheels, mounting and balancing is another issue. Wire wheels(or at least OEM-style wire wheels) require an inner tube. Good quality inner tubes run $25-30 each. Some folks do mount the tires themselves(supposedly not too hard with a good set of tire irons with these small tires), although you're still left with balancing. Finding a shop that knows how to balance correctly is another issue-I talked to one local shop that said they would do static balancing per my request, but not a lot are willing(or able) to do this. BTW, for 5 tires, tubes, mounting and balancing I was quoted $500, which doesn't seem terrible, but does add to the cost.

Wire wheels are definitely on the to do list down the road(A. Goldberg was giving me a hard time for even considering a British sportscar without them ) but probably not immediately. That might be a good tax refund project, although even getting the hub hardware in place is not exactly an easy task. It would probably be a good time for me redo the brakes all around since I'd have the car down to the hubs, but again that's more parts.

 

[Apple fanboy]

In a former life, I used to make the hubs and the rims for a company called Specialised Automobile services. They were a bugger to make (especially the hub part).
And yes, chrome all day long!

 

[bunnspecial]

In a former life, I used to make the hubs and the rims for a company called Specialised Automobile services. They were a bugger to make (especially the hub part).
And yes, chrome all day long!

I've heard many horror stories about wire wheels, all up and down the line, but there's an undeniable charm to them on the right car.

IMO, a classic British roadster is the "right car."

Somewhere in this thread and the car thread, we were discussing "tasteful" car modifications as opposed to the alternative. I sincerely hope that everything I've proposed herein meets that criteria, and if not I would hope someone would tell me!

 

[MatthewLTL]

ok why would you need a "conversion"? it dont even look like those rims have lug nuts, how to you mount them to the car?

 

[bunnspecial]

ok why would you need a "conversion"? it dont even look like those rims have lug nuts, how to you mount them to the car?

Two thirds of the answer to that question is in the photo. For the full story, search for "rudge whitworth spline."

BTW, the missing part in the above photo is called the "knock off" which is basically just a big nut that screws on the center. These came in two-eared(looks like a giant wing nut) and octagonal on the MG. Octagonal is correct for a 1970, but I prefer the look of the "wingnut."

As to why I need a conversion-it's hard to mount a wire wheel on a hub with these wheels on it

 

[MatthewLTL]

oh so the car DOES have lug nuts... so why not just get wire wheels with lug holes?

 

[bunnspecial]

I'm going for "classy" upgrades and lug nut wire wheels look like crap...even though it's not a super valuable car if it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

This isn't a 1975 Impala with 12" wide 50,000 spoke wire wheels as seem to be in vogue this days. It's a classic British sports car that deserves wire wheels as close to original(or perhaps slightly upgraded versions like the 72 spoke ones currently available) as possible. Bolt on wire wheels don't cut it.

 

[A.Goldberg]

oh so the car DOES have lug nuts... so why not just get wire wheels with lug holes?

Why not just get steel wheels with wire wheel hubcaps?

Because this is the the look people desire as it is original to the car. To do the spline drive wheels, you need essentially one, big, giant lug nut. It's an pricey conversion and require actual maintenance (something some people are unfamiliar with). But keep in mind this is an antique car. They actually have replacement wire wheels now that are made of of alloy and supposedly don't require maintenance.

 

[bunnspecial]

Ari,

I notice the car you posted has cross drilled and slotted rotors.

If/when I do the wire wheels I'm doing a brake job also. Moss sells a full kit with those rotors and ceramic pads. I can take or leave the rotors, but am completely sold on ceramic pads. I've had them on my LS(on the front) now for about 40,000 and could quite literally get away with never cleaning the wheels(even though I do on a regular basis). They make as much dust as conventional pads, but it's really close to the color of the wheel. Basically the only thing I notice is that the wheels look "brighter" after cleaning. The ceramic dust doesn't "stick" as badly either and often just a quick spray with the hose will knock most of it off.

Unfortunately, I do think that they are hard on the rotor. The last time I had the front wheels off, the rotor seemed to have more wear than the pads(which still have a LOT of life left). I'm actually thinking that I may need rotors well before the pads are shot-I know most folks will say don't do rotors without pads also, but I think in this case it might be justified.

 

[Apple fanboy]

Getting the splines and the opening for the large wing nut right was always a nightmare. It was the last opp in about a 10 operation job. They start life a 6 mm thick mild steal plate.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Video is private!

Fixed!

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Well the last (and probably final for the 2015 year) mod has been done...... LED Daytime Running Lights!

...the solid-core wire...

In the first pic you have the wire running through a hole with no grommet, that's bad.

I see no mention of a fuse, with the above problem, you are asking for a fire.

Also, solid-core wire in a car is asking for problems, you need multi-strand. Solid-core will break from the abuse a car will dish out.

 

[lowendlinux]

I'm going for "classy" upgrades and lug nut wire wheels look like crap...even though it's not a super valuable car if it's worth doing it's worth doing right.

This isn't a 1975 Impala with 12" wide 50,000 spoke wire wheels as seem to be in vogue this days. It's a classic British sports car that deserves wire wheels as close to original(or perhaps slightly upgraded versions like the 72 spoke ones currently available) as possible. Bolt on wire wheels don't cut it.

Have you ever owned a car with spinners?

There's a reason MG shipped lugged wire wheels later in production

 

[bunnspecial]

Have you ever owned a car with spinners?

There's a reason MG shipped lugged wire wheels later in production

I've never had a car with wire wheels, however I've also never encountered an MGB with bolt-in wires(and I've looked at a lot in my search for one).

Wires are rare on the last couple of years of production, but even the late ones('79 and '80) I've seen have spline-drive wheels and knock-offs.

There was a switch from the "wingnut" style to the octagonal style in the late '60s, but that's as far as I'm aware of any change.

Alloy wheels did get increasingly popular in later years.

 

[lowendlinux]

I've never had a car with wire wheels, however I've also never encountered an MGB with bolt-in wires(and I've looked at a lot in my search for one).

Wires are rare on the last couple of years of production, but even the late ones('79 and '80) I've seen have spline-drive wheels and knock-offs.

There was a switch from the "wingnut" style to the octagonal style in the late '60s, but that's as far as I'm aware of any change.

Alloy wheels did get increasingly popular in later years.

Bolt on wires were/are quite common though they retained fake knock offs.

The reason is spinners need to be touched up at ~200 miles they are beyond a PITA to actually use. Even when I had my MG in the early 90's it was hard to find a shop balance the tire because the hub diameter was off enough there the wheel could be secured properly in the machine. If the car isn't going to be driven much it's not a big deal but if it is...

 

[MatthewLTL]

In the first pic you have the wire running through a hole with no grommet, that's bad.

I see no mention of a fuse, with the above problem, you are asking for a fire.

Also, solid-core wire in a car is asking for problems, you need multi-strand. Solid-core will break from the abuse a car will dish out.

1st off, that is a factory drilled hole, I assume it is there for the hood release cable for RHD versions of the car. It is already a smooth hole.
2nd, There is a fuse, The power Window fuse, the Power Window relay does not work without the fuse. It's a 30A fuse because you can't get a 5A FMX fuse, but it's fused nonetheless.
3rd, Multi-strand wire does not allow the relay to seat fully, I had used speaker wire originally. Here is the original wire-up:

Passenger side wiring. Black is ground on both socket and plug. White is the "Parking" Lights which is not used on the plug but wired for the DRLs on the socket. The Red on the plug and the blue on the socket are the turn signal side.

Driver's side. TOP: DRLs, White wire is the Driver's side DRL wire, the two speaker wires are one from the passenger to the driver side and the other to the fuse box. MIDDLE: Ground BOTTOM: Turn Signal.

Fuel Pump Relay used to power the DRLs. Not the thing in wanted to do but didn't have much other choice.

Wire wrapped around pin 87 of relay.

Shows the plug harness.

Passenger side wire routed to the driver's side of the car.

 

[LumbermanSVO]

I used to work on automotive electrical systems professionally. I can promise you two things:

1: If a tech of mine ever let a car out of my shop with a wiring job like that, I'd fire him.

2: You WILL eventually have problems with your wiring job, the reason for #1.

 

[MatthewLTL]

I used to work on automotive electrical systems professionally. I can promise you two things:

1: If a tech of mine ever let a car out of my shop with a wiring job like that, I'd fire him.

2: You WILL eventually have problems with your wiring job, the reason for #1.

That is just a temperary setup, just to get the DRLs working wire nuts are all i have ill wrap all hose up in tape later

 

[LumbermanSVO]

Get some multi-strand wire of the proper size, a fuse holder, Bosch 30 amp relay and relay holder with pigtail, and the proper crimp connectors(not wire nuts!) or the proper stuff to solder your connections.

Mount the relay on your inner fender with the terminals facing down, plug in your holder with pigtails. Connect the wires coming from terminals 86 and 30 together and run them to your fuse holder, connect the other side of the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery, or a power distribution lug if your car has one. Make sure the wire run from the battery(or lug) to your fuse is no more than 18 inches, the shorter the better.

Run the wire from terminal 85 of your relay to your switch, run the other side of the switch to ground. When you go through the firewall(or other metal) use a grommet. Or you can run it with another factory harness. And by "with" I mean inside the loom, so you can't see it and it's protected from the weather and vibrations. If you don't run it with a factory loom, then get some split loom from Parts Express, it's cheap insurance.

Run terminal 87 to your lights. Again, when this wire goes through metal, use a grommet. The same advice applies for how to properly run the wires. Ground the other side of your lights.

When you do your ground, add it to a factory ground if one is nearby. If not, use a factory bolt if one is nearby. And last, if you don't have a factory ground or bolt, use a good screw. If you aren't using a factory ground, then make sure you sand any paint from under the bolt/screw you are using so you get a solid connection. This grounding advice applies both inside and outside the cabin of the car.

 

[MatthewLTL]

Get some multi-strand wire of the proper size, a fuse holder, Bosch 30 amp relay and relay holder with pigtail, and the proper crimp connectors(not wire nuts!) or the proper stuff to solder your connections.

Mount the relay on your inner fender with the terminals facing down, plug in your holder with pigtails. Connect the wires coming from terminals 86 and 30 together and run them to your fuse holder, connect the other side of the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery, or a power distribution lug if your car has one. Make sure the wire run from the battery(or lug) to your fuse is no more than 18 inches, the shorter the better.

Run the wire from terminal 85 of your relay to your switch, run the other side of the switch to ground. When you go through the firewall(or other metal) use a grommet. Or you can run it with another factory harness. And by "with" I mean inside the loom, so you can't see it and it's protected from the weather and vibrations. If you don't run it with a factory loom, then get some split loom from Parts Express, it's cheap insurance.

Run terminal 87 to your lights. Again, when this wire goes through metal, use a grommet. The same advice applies for how to properly run the wires. Ground the other side of your lights.

When you do your ground, add it to a factory ground if one is nearby. If not, use a factory bolt if one is nearby. And last, if you don't have a factory ground or bolt, use a good screw. If you aren't using a factory ground, then make sure you sand any paint from under the bolt/screw you are using so you get a solid connection. This grounding advice applies both inside and outside the cabin of the car.

Sounds like it'd be easier to just get a DRL Relay wiring harness.........

 

[macquariumguy]

Pictures of parts in situ please!

I don't have any good pictures of the headers/exhaust installed, but it's hard to miss that blower.

Another mod that I'm pretty happy with, I reskinned my seats last year. Ordered the leather from a company named leatherseats.com and spent a weekend taking the seats out, reskinning, and reinstalling. I also did the door card inserts (originally was all black). I think it looks pretty great.