Thanks for all the positive comments on the the last Santorini photo... It's a photographers paradise... Some of the vistas there surpass anything else I've ever seen! 
. Here's another...
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. Here's another...
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Photo of the day: November 2012
- Thread starter oblomow
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This is a great shot ijohn. I really like the way the headlights are framed...with a bit of help from Ford
I'm wondering how this would look in B & W.
Wonder no more! Thanks for the suggestion Cheese&Apple, black & white is not an often used technique for me. I just don't even think about it, I'm usually too fixated on getting true to life colours. This subject was definitely strong enough in shape, texture, design and reflection to receive the b&w treatment. Later on I'll do some reading and learning about shooting and post production for black & white. Too much else to learn about yet! Thanks again for the suggestion.
Your picture looked kinda familiar. This is Hardraw Force, in the Yorkshire Dales. 'Force' (or 'foss') is a local word for a waterfall...
Yup , more than a slight resemblance . I'm thinking of making Taughannock a kind of '4 season' project' , trying to capture the falls in Winter , when it's frozen , Spring , Summer , and Fall , with and without foliage . Only problem is it's over 200 miles from my place . Only get up there when I'm visiting family in the area .
Hey guys, I went out on my very first photo shoot with a friend of mine the other day. As an amateur I'm very excited to have other people have faith in my ability to capture their character on film (or computer haha). Here is something from the shoot. What do you guys think?
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School Days by pmxperience, on Flickr
I'm going to go into "The Grid" mode for some comments. The Grid is a weekly podcast/streaming video show done by Kelby Media. Every month they do blind critiques of pictures, and it is very helpful for learning what not to do and what to do for photography. I've learned a few things just from watching that.
Overall, I think you did quite well. Usually subject in the center is not wise, but I think it works fine for this image. The subject is exposed well, so you got the basics covered. As already mentioned, you should pay attention to what's behind the subject to avoid things growing out of their head, like that wooden beam. I also think you could crop down a lot from the top as there's too much headroom. The main focus of the photo is the guy, not the falling apart ceiling. I think you could crop it down to maybe just above the gap in the beams, and maybe in a bit on the sides, though not as much.
This next bit of advice is more taste than something you did wrong. What I see discussed a lot is where the brightest part of the picture is. In this case it is the floor from the light coming in the door and hitting the wall. In a portrait you usually want the person's face to be the brightest, since that is where you want the attention. That means having the subject 1 or 2 stops brighter than the background. That also means then lighting them separately such that they stand out from the background. Of course, if you don't have lights to do that, then you're having to deal with just available light, and for that you did just fine. In that case I'd suggest trying to frame it to hide the bright floor and only get the darker part of the building behind him. You could also pose him against the wall to camera left where he's in more light and brightens him up to match the level of light there, and he'll stand out against the darker stuff behind him.
Those are my suggestions based on what I've seen in critiques of other photos that have been critiqued.
One of the few truly SFW photos you're going to find of Brett Rossi on the Internet. Taken back in April of this year, but I never got around to post-processing this set until last week.
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Thanks for that...
I had a poke around the internet... (although she shares a name with a creepy looking criminal) Good photo! 
Taken yesterday at a friends lavender farm.
This shot is at 100% and was taken with my Canon 1100D/T3 using the 50mm f/1.8 lens. Is it normal to have so much noise in the background? You don't see it when you are zoomed out. I was using the sweet spot for this lens also, in regard of aperture, between 4 and 5.5. Does this happen even with top of the range cameras at 100% pixel peeping?
![IMG_71822.jpg]()
This shot is at 100% and was taken with my Canon 1100D/T3 using the 50mm f/1.8 lens. Is it normal to have so much noise in the background? You don't see it when you are zoomed out. I was using the sweet spot for this lens also, in regard of aperture, between 4 and 5.5. Does this happen even with top of the range cameras at 100% pixel peeping?
Taken yesterday at a friends lavender farm.
This shot is at 100% and was taken with my Canon 1100D/T3 using the 50mm f/1.8 lens. Is it normal to have so much noise in the background? You don't see it when you are zoomed out. I was using the sweet spot for this lens also, in regard of aperture, between 4 and 5.5. Does this happen even with top of the range cameras at 100% pixel peeping?
![IMG_71822.jpg]()
I think it may be down to the amount you have zoomed in (rez'd up), a true macro lens give 1:1 magnification, i think the canon 1.8 is actually quite low at ...(goes and checks...) 0.15x
So i think its due to the fact you are zoomed in so far, to make the bee bigger (i guess it was really quite a small part of the normal picture), hence it looks good zoomed out, I'm sure a few more of the more macro minded members may be able to give you a more definitive ansa tho
A shot I took Monday for an assignment.
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Out of interest what was the theme? "Textured" or something similar?
Santorini...
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Wow. I think I love the amount of detail in this image. Would be great to blow up and stick on a billboard for the tourist board!
Wish I could find some locations like that near me. I tend to shoot predominantly film due to being able to use my dad's old kit and not having enough money to spend on a new digital kit but I watch this web series called "film". You might want to check out this episode were they discuss using 1 camera, 1 lens, 1 roll of film and getting several different looks and feel from 1 location. It's interesting how they manipulate the model to work with the light that is already there. More on the different kind of "light" they use is in this one.
One of the few truly SFW photos you're going to find of Brett Rossi on the Internet. Taken back in April of this year, but I never got around to post-processing this set until last week.
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Have you got any tips from directing models? I am looking to get into slightly more high-end fashion and "sexy" photos and could do with some tips!
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As far as directing models, before you start shooting, you need to convey your shoot concept(s) clearly so the model knows what you want. During the shoot, be clear and concise with your model with regards to posing if you need her look a certain way. It's easy to get caught up in nailing a lot of frames sequentially without lowering the camera, but you need to. If you shoot over dozen frames without ever lowering your camera, you disconnect from the model and things start to get 'mechanical'.
Models like to move. They won't hold a position for very long. So that means you need to make sure you have your lighting ready and correct before hand. You don't want to fiddle with lighting to much in the middle of a specific set. If you take a shot, chimp the LCD, release the lighting was off but you still want that exact pose, it's going to be hard to get the model the redo that pose effectively after you fiddle with the lighting.
On that same tangent, pro models will often go through a routine of poses during a set. After she runs through them and you don't get the pose you want, you'll need to tell her to hit that pose for you. Also, for such models that are constantly changing poses after each frame taken, if you see a great pose that you want multiple frames of (say in portrait and landscape, widely and tightly cropped), don't hesitate to call out that you need her to lock that pose for multiple frames so she doesn't move.
As far as model and photographer being in sync, it's always a good idea to carry on friendly conversation with the model before and during, so they're not too robotic in their posing. You want them comfortable.
Thanks so much for this info. I will definitely try and put it into practise next time I shoot. I think a lot of the problem is that I am mainly shooting on film therefore always pause before pushing the shutter. It also means that I get the models to hold the poses too long and the "life" is sucked out of it.
I have copied your text into a document of learnings I have made.
Thanks again!
Another view of Mt. Adams in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest. This is from Olallie Lake around the corner, geographically speaking, from my previous post of this mountain.
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EXIF Summary: Canon 7D 1/250s f/11.0 ISO200 Tamron 28-75 f/2.8@28mm
Dale
EXIF Summary: Canon 7D 1/250s f/11.0 ISO200 Tamron 28-75 f/2.8@28mm
Dale
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It was ISO 100, 1/750, f/4.5, 50mm prime lens. So it shouldn't be ISO type noise.
OK, this makes sense. This was the first time I'd looked at something at 100% in photoshop, I have a 27" calibrated iMac (with the i1 Display Pro by X-Rite) and 20/20 vision so have never needed to before yesterday, when I started using gradients with masks to exaggerate dull skies.
I'll just assume it's normal when you are this far magnified (100%) in photoshop then.
I could have used my 55-250 telephoto if I wanted closer shots, but I was trying to push myself to get the best quality shots with the 50mm prime only, as it's the best lens I have.
I'm using the shots to create a web site for the owners of the lavender farm, so I don't actually have a need to be so far in on the bee. I was just curious about that level of noise is all.
