macbook pro unibody oxidation blemishes
Not sure soap & water are approved for cleaning.
You definitely shouldn't EVER use water it you're not skilled with manual tasks and plan on letting moisture seep into the keyboard or the trackpad or the screen. That's a big NO.
I used some steel wool, sanding paper and Drano liquid clog remover to clean it my macbook pro unibody, so I don't think that's abrasive...
JK. Dude, I used water and a low concentration of gentle soap. With only 3 seconds exposure to moisture, its nearly impossible for most metals to enter into a chemical reaction with the oxigen bound in the water molecules. Especially not aluminum, which is one of he least corrosive metals.
Audi builds their cars of aluminum and they do not ever rust, even with snow and salt from harsh winters, for many many years. Airplanes are build from Aluminum because they're highly resistant to corrosion. MacBook Pro, 3 seconds of moisture = problem?
I just found this info:
You bought aluminum furniture or equipment because you thought it wouldn't rust. It doesn't rust. But it does get those crusty, dull white or grey oxidation blemishes and layers. Aluminum oxidation removal for lawn and garden furniture can be both necessary and difficult. But if you know your options, it becomes much easier. This article will teach you options for aluminum oxidation removal for garden furniture and a step by step method for evaluating and carrying out your options.
Instructions
1.
* 1
Evaluate your aluminum oxidation removal problem. There are three levels of aluminum oxidation: light, medium and heavy. Light aluminum oxidation means you have only a few spots of oxidation. The finish appears only slightly dull with no hard or crusty places or pits in the metal. Medium aluminum oxidation means the finish is very dull and there is a white layer of oxidation over most or all of the metal with some pitting. Heavy aluminum oxidation means the finish is so bad that it is "crusty" in some places with pits and working parts may be hard to move.
* 2
If you have a light aluminum oxidation removal problem, you can use an acid-free consumer aluminum oxidation removal product. These come in sprays and pastes. They work like any buffing compound. You rub or spray them onto the aluminum and buff with a cloth, following the directions on the container. This method can require a good amount of "elbow grease." A power buffer is not necessary, but it can make the job go faster and easier. If you use a power buffer, be sure to use a new buffing pad of soft cloth.
* 3
If you have a medium aluminum oxidation removal problem, you might still be able to succeed with an acid-free consumer aluminum oxidation removal product and simple elbow grease -- but prepare for a lot of work. Use the product at the highest strength recommended on the container. You will certainly want to use a power buffer if one is available to you. If the consumer aluminum oxidation removal product does not work on your medium aluminum oxidation removal problem, you'll need to take things to the next level, in Step 4.
* 4
If you have a medium aluminum oxidation removal problem which is not solved by the procedure recommended in step 3, or if you have a heavy aluminum oxidation removal problem, you may need to take stronger measures. Start with a consumer or professional grade aluminum oxidation removal product which contains Phosphoric acid. Carefully read and follow every safety precaution on the container. You may need to pay special attention to the pitted places. Be prepared to see the finish become uneven -- some metal will be lightly eroded away by the acid and extreme buffing. You may even need to use some sandpaper: medium grit, then fine grit, then a buffing compound to renew the shine.
Read more: Aluminum Oxidation Removal | eHow.com
http://www.ehow.com/how_4548139_aluminum-oxidation-removal.html#ixzz1I8E19MNK
Something else is going on here. I'll let you know what Apple - or what the random guy at the Genius Bar happens to think.
