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Im picking up my new old car today

1

103734

Guest
Original poster
Apr 10, 2007
723
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Well some of you probelly remember the mustang I got a few months ago, it was a 1968 and didnt run when I got it, overall it was in pretty bad shape. Well I got it running and fixed it up some to find that the frame was bad, one side of the car was almost 2 inches longer than the other, I payed 1500 for the car and about 1000 in parts so I put 2500 into it total, well I ended up selling it for 3200, so I ended up making 700 on it. In the end I didn't loose any money on it but learned alot about working on older cars like that. Well today I found a older man selling his mustang that he was working on for about the price I sold my car for, so hopefully tonight I can pick it up. Still under 17 and im going on my second classic mustang

I will have some pictures up tonight if I can

UPDATE: Its in my driveway right now, to dark to take pictures, ill have them up tonight. But you wont believe what was in the guys garage. Well you have to see it to believe it.

69693433pm4.jpg


Yes I know its unbelievable, and both were signed by shelby! Yes I know its awesome!

UPDATE 2: Pictures
l_2ef3a140f78c1c85828a5070abb6fe72.jpg

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Its going to need some TLC but overall its in great shape for a older car.

Heres my plan of attack
1. Fix mechanical stuff (some gauges are not working, and blinkers are not working)
2. Fix interior (front seats, headliner, carpet)
3. Prep for paint/ paint
4. Replace missing trim pieces and emblems

Im going to try to finish step one and two in the next two weeks before school starts
 
Should be getting light soon, how about a picture of YOUR car instead of the two you were drooling over. ;)
 
Ooooh, a '60's Mustang... :D one of the few truly desirable american cars. :)
 
Sun Baked said:
Should be getting light soon, how about a picture of YOUR car instead of the two you were drooling over. ;)
Click to expand...

I will have them up within the next hour, I just woke up and I need to take a shower and get dressed. But I will have them up within 60 mins!:p
 
Overall, it looks like a pretty solid '67. Important things to look at first:

1. Torque boxes
2. Floor Pans
3. Shock towers (get a monte carlo bar to shore this area up)
4. Heater core
5. Vent behind hood-verify it doesn't leak by running water from the hose
6. Brakes

Although you're leaving the interior until later, remember that psychologically, you'll feel much better about driving if your dash and interior aren't a mess to look at. Enjoy the restoration! Take LOTS of pictures, before, during and after. Its amazing how helpful they can be when putting something back together. I had a '68 Fastback GT and loved it - except for the annoying wet days when the spark wouldn't catch!
 
Black&Tan said:
Overall, it looks like a pretty solid '67. Important things to look at first:

1. Torque boxes
2. Floor Pans
3. Shock towers (get a monte carlo bar to shore this area up)
4. Heater core
5. Vent behind hood-verify it doesn't leak by running water from the hose
6. Brakes
Click to expand...

1. Im not sure about the torque box ill have that checked today
2. The floor pans are in very good shape
3. Shock towers are as straight as a new car
4. The heater core im leaving out right now, im in california and I never really need a heater, Ill wait to do this till later
5. Ill check that
6. Brake pads as far as I know are fairly new, it has disks in the front and drum in the back

Thanks for the advice, you brought of some things I wouldn't have thought of.
 
You should be able to see the torque boxes easily. They're right behind the front wheel wells, on the undercarriage. These are very important, if they're not solid, you can get new ones welded on. Do this before you have any framework done, it will help all your panels line up and remain true.

Also, the shock tower brace "boxes" out the engine compartment. After 30 years, the metal has flexed and sagged somewhat. This will tighten everything up and you'll notice a big difference when cornering. It's just a b*tch to install.

Get to know Eastwood Restoration products, Mustang Monthly (magazine), and half a dozen decent supply houses.
 
Black&Tan said:
You should be able to see the torque boxes easily. They're right behind the front wheel wells, on the undercarriage. These are very important, if they're not solid, you can get new ones welded on. Do this before you have any framework done, it will help all your panels line up and remain true.

Also, the shock tower brace "boxes" out the engine compartment. After 30 years, the metal has flexed and sagged somewhat. This will tighten everything up and you'll notice a big difference when cornering. It's just a b*tch to install.

Get to know Eastwood Restoration products, Mustang Monthly (magazine), and half a dozen decent supply houses.
Click to expand...

I looked and they look pretty straight, from what I can see they look like someone replaced the shock towers because it looks like they are new sheet metal compared to the rest of the car.
 
I have always wanted one a 1960s mustang, but never wanted to devote the time and energy (or the money for that matter) to restore one.
Whats the reliability like on these?
 
steamboat26 said:
I have always wanted one a 1960s mustang, but never wanted to devote the time and energy (or the money for that matter) to restore one.
Whats the reliability like on these?
Click to expand...

Reliability in New England, with a carbureted set-up and points is iffy at best. Converting to a "pointless" distributor is much better. The best would be fuel injection, but that's definitely changing the "flavor" of the car. Still, if you've got a restored classic, you're more likely to drive it in sunny weather, so I'd skip the fuel injection and switch to a pointless distributor. That doesn't solve the overheating starter, though. The placement of the starter is right near the headers, so you need a heat shield of some sort to protect the starter.

Minor gotchas aside, I'd buy a 67/68 in a second if I found a clean fastback in decent shape. Or a Shelby in any condition. :D
 
Black&Tan

16k for an all new 67 or 68 fastback body shell is still a bit of change.

But it'll be a cleaner body than anything else.
 
damn 2 shelby's thats insane.

good luck on the stang, i love old fords, have a '66 tbird here now looking to get a '63 bird and a 68 mustang here someday.

and also we are working on a '68 vert completely redoing everything, we are under it now doing some frame work.
 
Sun Baked said:
Black&Tan

16k for an all new 67 or 68 fastback body shell is still a bit of change.

But it'll be a cleaner body than anything else.
Click to expand...

The Year One repros? I saw those...very interesting. Wouldn't be too bad if you already had a donor car. However, if you tried to buy all the additional repro parts, they would probably run close to another 15,000. Personally, I'd rather get an original and do a ground up restoration.
 
Black&Tan said:
The Year One repros? I saw those...very interesting. Wouldn't be too bad if you already had a donor car. However, if you tried to buy all the additional repro parts, they would probably run close to another 15,000. Personally, I'd rather get an original and do a ground up restoration.
Click to expand...

If you are paying someone to do the work to build you a car, a clean shell pays for itself quickly, and all new parts are not a big deal.

Though a clean shell and a donor car can be the ideal mix.
 
VicRattlehead said:
damn 2 shelby's thats insane.

good luck on the stang, i love old fords, have a '66 tbird here now looking to get a '63 bird and a 68 mustang here someday.

and also we are working on a '68 vert completely redoing everything, we are under it now doing some frame work.
Click to expand...

You were under the car when you posted that!?!:eek:

lol jk. I will have some pics up next week after I have the interior done
 
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