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r6mile

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Feb 3, 2010
1,004
505
London, UK
I have purchased on eBay a 27 inch 2010 iMac that is on its way, but I have also seen a faulty 2011 iMac on eBay that has the faulty display issue (where the left-side of the screen goes dark). The 2011 would be nice mainly because of Thunderbolt. Can I just pop-in the display from the 2010 iMac into the 2011 one?

Thanks,
 
Keep the 2010 model the 2011 have known issues and is not worth it just for thunderbolt anyways. Yes they do work but spend your money better else.
 
I have purchased on eBay a 27 inch 2010 iMac that is on its way, but I have also seen a faulty 2011 iMac on eBay that has the faulty display issue (where the left-side of the screen goes dark). The 2011 would be nice mainly because of Thunderbolt. Can I just pop-in the display from the 2010 iMac into the 2011 one?

Thanks,

That's a really good question. I know this, the panel from 2009-2012 remained unchanged, however, small differences were made with the actual lb connector over the years. On a quick google search, the part numbers between the model years are slightly different which might imply they changed something.

You might be able to get away with swapping the controller board or even playing around with the backlighting since the physical parts on either display should be no different. You might be able to fix the the 2011 screen pretty easy.
 
Keep the 2010 model the 2011 have known issues and is not worth it just for thunderbolt anyways. Yes they do work but spend your money better else.

Thanks, I guess it's worth keeping the 2010 model then. I'm not really fussed about Thunderbolt that much, I guess I was just curious about the 2011 since it's the last model that is easily upgradeable and has a SuperDrive, which does come in handy sometimes. I'm less of a fan in just how reflective the display is (which I understand was much reduced in the 2012 and later iMacs).

What are the specific issues with the 2011 that you are aware of? I have come across the dark display issue which is present on the 2009-2011 iMacs, but thankfully the 2010 I ordered does not seem to have it.

You might be able to get away with swapping the controller board or even playing around with the backlighting since the physical parts on either display should be no different. You might be able to fix the the 2011 screen pretty easy.

Thanks, although I have upgraded these sorts of Macs before I'm not sure my expertise extends to swapping controller boards!
 
After having done a bit of research, I have decided to stick with the 2010 iMac because of the 2011's notorious GPU failures, and I have read no such issues about the 2010 (which I have read described as 'rock solid'). This is the high-end 2.8 i5 model with the AMD 5750 and 16GB of RAM; I am only coming from a 2010 21.5 i3 8GB (connected to a 20' Cinema Display) which I am very happy with and really only use for internet browsing, as a media server, and some occasional light gaming. But I got such a steal on eBay that after selling my current iMac and the ACD I might actually make about £100 from the upgrade.

Since I have to install an SSD anyway (the machine comes with no storage drive), which involves a partial removal of the logic board, I think I might go ahead and upgrade the CPU to the i7 2.93 while I'm at it. The CPU only costs about £65 on eBay, and I could sell the existing i5 for about £30-35. I have taken apart a few iMacs before but never upgraded the CPU. Do you guys recommend this upgrade?
 
Defintely put an ssd in it. You're missing the stock hd, which has a thermal sensor build in. Therefore your fans will go crazy like a yet engine. Look at the OWC upgrade kit and how to surpass the hd thermal sensor. Good luck!
 
Defintely put an ssd in it. You're missing the stock hd, which has a thermal sensor build in. Therefore your fans will go crazy like a yet engine. Look at the OWC upgrade kit and how to surpass the hd thermal sensor. Good luck!

So this is my next question - since the iMac has no hard drive, can I just leave the 3.5 drive bay empty altogether and install an SSD in the 2.5 SSD bay using this kit (http://eshop.macsales.com/search/IM27SSD10)? Or do I have to install it in the 3.5 drive bay using an Adaptadrive and the OWC sensor cable (http://eshop.macsales.com/search/IMACHDD09)? (I have performed the latter upgrade on a couple of 2010-2011 21.5 iMacs already, including the one I am typing this on)

And another related question - if I wanted to install a spinner in the 3.5 bay, I understand that in the 2010 iMac you don't need the sensor cable as long as the hard drive is the same make as the one that originally came in the iMac. But this iMac has no hard drive - is there any way to know what it came with?

Thanks!
 
So this is my next question - since the iMac has no hard drive, can I just leave the 3.5 drive bay empty altogether and install an SSD in the 2.5 SSD bay using this kit (http://eshop.macsales.com/search/IM27SSD10)? Or do I have to install it in the 3.5 drive bay using an Adaptadrive and the OWC sensor cable (http://eshop.macsales.com/search/IMACHDD09)? (I have performed the latter upgrade on a couple of 2010-2011 21.5 iMacs already, including the one I am typing this on)

And another related question - if I wanted to install a spinner in the 3.5 bay, I understand that in the 2010 iMac you don't need the sensor cable as long as the hard drive is the same make as the one that originally came in the iMac. But this iMac has no hard drive - is there any way to know what it came with?

Thanks!
After having done a bit of research, I have decided to stick with the 2010 iMac because of the 2011's notorious GPU failures, and I have read no such issues about the 2010 (which I have read described as 'rock solid'). This is the high-end 2.8 i5 model with the AMD 5750 and 16GB of RAM; I am only coming from a 2010 21.5 i3 8GB (connected to a 20' Cinema Display) which I am very happy with and really only use for internet browsing, as a media server, and some occasional light gaming. But I got such a steal on eBay that after selling my current iMac and the ACD I might actually make about £100 from the upgrade.

Since I have to install an SSD anyway (the machine comes with no storage drive), which involves a partial removal of the logic board, I think I might go ahead and upgrade the CPU to the i7 2.93 while I'm at it. The CPU only costs about £65 on eBay, and I could sell the existing i5 for about £30-35. I have taken apart a few iMacs before but never upgraded the CPU. Do you guys recommend this upgrade?
I would save your money on the i7 chip upgrade i have both an i5 and an i7 imac both with 16gB ram and unless you are rendering video for hours you will not notice any speed difference whatsoever. I would spen the money on a bigger SSD which made a night and day difference to my machine. If you dont fit the HDD however you will have fan problems and as the cost of the OWC temp gizmo is about the same price as a 1TB HDD i would fit that as well.
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So this is my next question - since the iMac has no hard drive, can I just leave the 3.5 drive bay empty altogether and install an SSD in the 2.5 SSD bay using this kit (http://eshop.macsales.com/search/IM27SSD10)? Or do I have to install it in the 3.5 drive bay using an Adaptadrive and the OWC sensor cable (http://eshop.macsales.com/search/IMACHDD09)? (I have performed the latter upgrade on a couple of 2010-2011 21.5 iMacs already, including the one I am typing this on)

And another related question - if I wanted to install a spinner in the 3.5 bay, I understand that in the 2010 iMac you don't need the sensor cable as long as the hard drive is the same make as the one that originally came in the iMac. But this iMac has no hard drive - is there any way to know what it came with?

Thanks!
I dont know if the 2010 model has the "extra" sata connector that the 2011 model has? If it does you can fit the HDD and the SSD ,(and keep the optical drive) reconnect the temp cable and have no fan problems. Apple fitted three different HDD, Western Digital (my favourite) Seagate and Hitachi , they all use the SMART protocol which OSX uses to measure the internal temp of the HDD . The only problem is that all the manufacturers use different pins for the little two wire plug that goes into the logic board , do you have the lead? Also the lead is fitted with different two pin plugs for the different manufacturers, I have always fitted Western Digital drives and the temp sensor goes on the two pins farthest from the sata connector on the top row of pins. Connect that to the HDD temp socket on the logic board and you wont have any fan problems. I have also in the past Squeezed a Hitachi plug onto a WD drive (the pin spacing isnt quiet the same) and it works . Fortunately I have a draw full of stripped down old Video cameras et al which are a continuing source of plugs and wire for all uses.
 
I dont know if the 2010 model has the "extra" sata connector that the 2011 model has? If it does you can fit the HDD and the SSD ,(and keep the optical drive) reconnect the temp cable and have no fan problems. Apple fitted three different HDD, Western Digital (my favourite) Seagate and Hitachi , they all use the SMART protocol which OSX uses to measure the internal temp of the HDD . The only problem is that all the manufacturers use different pins for the little two wire plug that goes into the logic board , do you have the lead? Also the lead is fitted with different two pin plugs for the different manufacturers, I have always fitted Western Digital drives and the temp sensor goes on the two pins farthest from the sata connector on the top row of pins. Connect that to the HDD temp socket on the logic board and you wont have any fan problems. I have also in the past Squeezed a Hitachi plug onto a WD drive (the pin spacing isnt quiet the same) and it works . Fortunately I have a draw full of stripped down old Video cameras et al which are a continuing source of plugs and wire for all uses.

Thanks very much, very helpful post. The iMac has arrived and as far as I can tell everything works well; I have booted from a USB hard drive with no issues. But as you might expect since there is no hard drive, the fans are very loud.

The hard drive cables are there - I have taken a couple of pictures, can you help me identify which make hard drive make I need? Also, how difficult is it to install the extra SSD using the other OWC kit?
 

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Thanks very much, very helpful post. The iMac has arrived and as far as I can tell everything works well; I have booted from a USB hard drive with no issues. But as you might expect since there is no hard drive, the fans are very loud.

The hard drive cables are there - I have taken a couple of pictures, can you help me identify which make hard drive make I need? Also, how difficult is it to install the extra SSD using the other OWC kit?
OK your photos show the SMART cable which is the 4 pin one , I could not see which pins the two wires were on but it looks like a Western Digital plug , there are 8 pins , two rows of 4 on the WD drives , the connector goes on with the two wires on the top row of pins (with the drive installed) the furthest from the SATA cable , the other two connectors you show are the SATA data cable (small one) and the power cable for the HDD. I dont know what you mean by the other OWC kit. I dont use OWC kits . All you need is a sata data cable and a power splitter cable which you fit on the hard drive power connector , one of the splitters goes onto the HDD and the other goes onto the SSD , the ones I use actually have two spare ways , I just cut off the one I did not use. You then put the sata cable onto the SSD and the other end , which is a right angle sata onto the spare sata socket which is on the inside of the logic board where the Optical drive plugs in. You can then tuck your SSD away under the video card heatsink. If you follow the OWC video for fitting their kit its the same, you just dont have to spend the inflated charges they charge ,my leads cost £5 from ebay here are the links
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250997408071?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251169283078?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

You also dont have to take the logic board out all the way just remove the video card and top screws on logic board and lean forward to gain access to the sata socket , I have done it a few times so am used to it , just disconnect the leads you need to so as not to strain anything, fortunately all of the sockets and plugs are different so you cant screw it up.

The fans are only screaming because you dont have a HDD . It will also scream if the lcd connector is out or the Optical temp sensor.
Needless to say I would recommend a Western Digital drive , I get mine from Ebuyer a 1 TB is about £40 and is a 7200rpm drive , if you want a bigger one they drop to 5400rpm or get very expensive.
 
OK your photos show the SMART cable which is the 4 pin one , I could not see which pins the two wires were on but it looks like a Western Digital plug , there are 8 pins , two rows of 4 on the WD drives , the connector goes on with the two wires on the top row of pins (with the drive installed) the furthest from the SATA cable , the other two connectors you show are the SATA data cable (small one) and the power cable for the HDD. I dont know what you mean by the other OWC kit. I dont use OWC kits . All you need is a sata data cable and a power splitter cable which you fit on the hard drive power connector , one of the splitters goes onto the HDD and the other goes onto the SSD , the ones I use actually have two spare ways , I just cut off the one I did not use. You then put the sata cable onto the SSD and the other end , which is a right angle sata onto the spare sata socket which is on the inside of the logic board where the Optical drive plugs in. You can then tuck your SSD away under the video card heatsink. If you follow the OWC video for fitting their kit its the same, you just dont have to spend the inflated charges they charge ,my leads cost £5 from ebay here are the links
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250997408071?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251169283078?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT.

Thanks a lot again. So I where should I look to make sure it is a WD drive I need? Do I need to look at which pins the cable is connected to? Or on the connector on the logic board?

The OWC SSD kit costs abot £18 but I guess I can save myself a tenner if I just buy the cables instead of the kit. How do you stick the SSD in place? The OWC kit comes with some sort of thermal adhesive.

Altogether, buying the HDD and the SSD cables is actually cheaper than the OWC sensor cable plus the 2.5-3.5 mount, so it makes sense to do that.
 
One other question - do you know where I can buy the hard drive mounting screws and bracket in the UK?
 
Thanks a lot again. So I where should I look to make sure it is a WD drive I need? Do I need to look at which pins the cable is connected to? Or on the connector on the logic board?

The OWC SSD kit costs abot £18 but I guess I can save myself a tenner if I just buy the cables instead of the kit. How do you stick the SSD in place? The OWC kit comes with some sort of thermal adhesive.

Altogether, buying the HDD and the SSD cables is actually cheaper than the OWC sensor cable plus the 2.5-3.5 mount, so it makes sense to do that.
The connection on the logic board is just two pins and is the same on all HDD cables . The four pin socket should have two pins at one side connected and the others blank , just put it on the new drive with the wires farthest from the sata cable , its fairly obvious once you get the HDD where they go. aThe OWC kits are a bit of a rip off , you don't need the carrier ( which is just a bit of plastic ) as you are not fitting the SSD in place of the HDD but along side it . In reality you do not need anything to attach the SSD it is a snug fit behind the heatsink riser , in fact you need to make sure your cables are tucked away neatly to stop them pressing on the LCD cable when you replace it .You could if you want put it behind your ssd like in this video
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+iMac+Intel+27-Inch+EMC+2429+Dual+Hard+Drive+Kit/7575
But I did not want to strip everything out so I put it between the HDD and the optical there is plenty of room.
Once installed with your HDD you can set it up as a fusion drive where OSX decides what to store where , and both drives appear as a single volume .
 
Since my current 21.5 iMac already has a 120GB SSD + OWC sensor cable + 2.5-3.5 adaptadrive, I think I will transfer all that onto the 27 iMac and stick it onto the 3.5 main hard drive bay. I don't need extra storage since I already have a 2TB FW800 drive. It's also an easier procedure which I've done a couple of times before. I can then just buy a 1TB spinner (of the same make as the original) to put into the 21.5 iMac before I sell it.

Thanks all for your help anyway!

And also, great surprise! The iMac actually comes with the 2.93 i7 CPU!
 
One other question - do you know where I can buy the hard drive mounting screws and bracket in the UK?
Unfortunately "Hens teeth" springs to mine , there are a couple on ebay at rip off prices £15

When buying "broken" machines its always the first thing I ask about before bidding. Hindsight is wonderful!
 
Unfortunately "Hens teeth" springs to mine , there are a couple on ebay at rip off prices £15

When buying "broken" machines its always the first thing I ask about before bidding. Hindsight is wonderful!

Thanks - I already knew it was missing the HDD caddy but since that was the only thing missing (apart from the hard drive) I thought it was a good deal since everything else is working. And it's a nice surprise than it's an i7 (instead of the i5 as advertised)!
 
Thanks - I already knew it was missing the HDD caddy but since that was the only thing missing (apart from the hard drive) I thought it was a good deal since everything else is working. And it's a nice surprise than it's an i7 (instead of the i5 as advertised)!
As I think I mentioned elsewhere I have both an i5 and i7 IMac of the same generation and can't tell them apart as I don't do anything that tests their computing power to any great extent , except the i7 version tends to run slightly hotter .
That reminds me........to anyone who is fitting a ssd or second HDD in place of the Optical drive . I acquired an i7 with the optical drive removed and video problems , on stripping down I realised the optical drive had been removed and no caddy put in its place . The optical drive case serves a very important function in that it forms the top of a "duct" that forces air from the fan onto the graphics card heat sink . Without the Optical drive the fan just blows air into the case void which leads to the video card overheating , even under no real load . I fabricated a makeshift duct and dropped the temp by 15-20C on the video card . Obviously if you fit a caddy in the drives place it serves the same purpose.
 
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