In my case, it was "read and do."
I bought a reasonably priced ($25) HTML book, and got PageSpinner, a $20 WYSISYG web page authoring software.
Read the book, apply the knowledge. Unfortunately, it takes time, and lots of it. What you are learning is a new language, and the only way you're going to learn it is to do it, over and over again. In time, you'll move up to better and better software/books...
Good luck - it's not hard, just takes time and practice!