Is it still safe to use this AC cord, or am I better replacing it? I've noticed that every time I plug my iMac into my UPS, it would sometimes create a spark that may have caused the prong to melt.
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Burnt and melted iMac AC cord prong
- Thread starter darkaxe201
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
A better image would help. Like this?
Thoughts:
It looks like poor contact between plug and outlet contacts is causing pitting due to arcing?
Could be either the cord, or... the outlet itself.
If you plug this cord into a DIFFERENT outlet, do you still get the same results?
I'd replace the cord.
Another alternative:
Get a short extension cord (that accepts the ground pin, some have only 2 pins).
Plug the Mac's cord into the extension cord.
Plug the extension into the outlet.
Any better?
(Yes, I realize it involves "an extra cord", but if it works... it works).
Thoughts:
It looks like poor contact between plug and outlet contacts is causing pitting due to arcing?
Could be either the cord, or... the outlet itself.
If you plug this cord into a DIFFERENT outlet, do you still get the same results?
I'd replace the cord.
Another alternative:
Get a short extension cord (that accepts the ground pin, some have only 2 pins).
Plug the Mac's cord into the extension cord.
Plug the extension into the outlet.
Any better?
(Yes, I realize it involves "an extra cord", but if it works... it works).
Sorry about the image. It seems like using a plug adapter like this stops the spark:
Plugging it into a different outlet yields the same result. Sometimes it sparks and sometimes it doesn't.
If I should replace the cord, where could I buy one? I've checked my local Apple store and they don't seem to sell cords like that for my iMac.
Those just use a standard PC power cable (NEMA 5-15P to IEC320C13). The Apple one just has that fancy flair at the end for aesthetic purposes.
Since some generic cables are absolute garbage using way too thin wires. Steel wires or aluminum wires. I'd stick with a known brand like Monoprice, cables to go or Tripp Lite.
Unfortunately most options are black. This monoprice looks decent and sort of retro. I might pick one up for my G4. As it would pair well with it. Might also get one for my white Corsair case.
Monoprice Hospital-Grade Computer Power Cable/Cord - 6 Feet - Gray | Clear Plugs 10A 14 AWG (NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13)
Power cords used in hospitals and other medical settings must conform to strict standards for grounding reliability, assembly integrity, strength, and durability, as well as regulatory standards such as NEMA and IEC specifications. These standards are in place to ensure that power cords are safe ...
www.amazon.com
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
OP wrote:
"Sorry about the image. It seems like using a plug adapter like this stops the spark"
Then, if that "stops the spark"... my suggestion is... use WHAT WORKS.
What is that thing you're plugging into, anyway?
A UPS?
Do you really need it?
What happens when you plug directly into a wall outlet?
"Sorry about the image. It seems like using a plug adapter like this stops the spark"
Then, if that "stops the spark"... my suggestion is... use WHAT WORKS.
What is that thing you're plugging into, anyway?
A UPS?
Do you really need it?
What happens when you plug directly into a wall outlet?
It's a UPS from APC. Blackouts are common here, especially during heavy thunderstorms. Plugging it directly into a wall outlet works just fine, but it isn't protected from surges and blackouts.
That's nice to know. Apple doesn't sell these cables at all?Those just use a standard PC power cable (NEMA 5-15P to IEC320C13). The Apple one just has that fancy flair at the end for aesthetic purposes.
Since some generic cables are absolute garbage using way too thin wires. Steel wires or aluminum wires. I'd stick with a known brand like Monoprice, cables to go or Tripp Lite.
Unfortunately most options are black. This monoprice looks decent and sort of retro. I might pick one up for my G4. As it would pair well with it. Might also get one for my white Corsair case.
Monoprice Hospital-Grade Computer Power Cable/Cord - 6 Feet - Gray | Clear Plugs 10A 14 AWG (NEMA 5-15P to IEC-320-C13)
Power cords used in hospitals and other medical settings must conform to strict standards for grounding reliability, assembly integrity, strength, and durability, as well as regulatory standards such as NEMA and IEC specifications. These standards are in place to ensure that power cords are safe ...www.amazon.com
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
As far as I can tell. No, they don't.
Maybe you can find an unused one on eBay. Hopefully, it's genuine and not a knockoff. There's also some third party lookalikes. But all I saw was no name brands. So, who knows what quality it is. Unless you buy two and cut one apart to verify the quality.
The iMac probably doesn't draw enough current to really worry about a crap cable overheating. But with something high voltage. I'd prefer something I'm confident will handle the current it's rated for.
If the plug WORKS when plugged into the wall (i.e., no sparks)
but
If the plug DOESN'T WORK when plugged into the UPS (sparks)
then
Something isn't quite right with the UPS.
I suspect the outlet in the UPS doesn't make a good connection with the prongs on the plug.
Chances are, you may get another power cord and THE SAME THING will happen.
If you want to keep using that UPS, then use the small "adapter" you show in the pic above in reply 3.
That "stopped the spark", right?
Use what works....
but
If the plug DOESN'T WORK when plugged into the UPS (sparks)
then
Something isn't quite right with the UPS.
I suspect the outlet in the UPS doesn't make a good connection with the prongs on the plug.
Chances are, you may get another power cord and THE SAME THING will happen.
If you want to keep using that UPS, then use the small "adapter" you show in the pic above in reply 3.
That "stopped the spark", right?
Use what works....