I'm flying form Hahn (near Frankfurt) on the 17th, but I already booked the flight on June 11 when it was still cheap.
Actually, I later booked a flight to London as well as I had decided to dump Bergamo since the leaked UK O2 PAYG prices turned out to be much cheaper (never saw that coming, usually anything priced in GBP is very expensive for us continentals).
But now that O2 delayed PAYG and Italy's iPhones will be unlocked, I'm ditching the London flight and am back to Bergamo
I've done quite a bit of research and have discovered nothing that could prevent from buying PAYG phones in Italy. There were even several reports from non-EU citizens who bought PAYG cards during trips to Italy.
By law, the operators are required to register your personal details for PAYG due to security concerns (terrorism, etc). This includes the Italien "Codice fiscale". You could even obtain such a codice legally as a foreigner, it would just involve some bureaucratic hassle. However, most mobile phone shops should be able to generate you a semi-official (but functional) code on the spot, if you're a foreigner. That's possible because the codice is basically just a unified format for presenting your name, date of birth and place of birth. Therefore, you can even generate yourself your personal codice on the website I mentioned above.
So, while for example buying the iPhone in Switzerland as a non-resident could be difficult (it's not EU after all, and the Swiss have a few peculiar rules anyway

), it should be pose no problem in Italy.
And - in the worst case - you can always grab yourself an Italian, have him do the purchase in his name and let him keep the SIM card and a small reward
