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ddbear

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Mar 15, 2021
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I have a mid 2012 MacBook Pro (A1278) with 10.15 Catalina and it's running extremely slow despite every troubleshooting step, so I want to do a clean install of the OS (in case there is OS corruption) while upgrading the HDD to an SSD drive. I plan to use Time Machine to first backup the user files onto an external USB drive. I don't have the original OS DVD.

I've read conflicting guides. Some posts first recommend downloading the OS from Apple and installing onto the new SSD when the SSD is connected as an external drive, before installing in the computer. Other posts talk about the very simple process of booting into Recovery mode, using the disk utility, and then performing the installation (or Time Machine restore). Other posts emphasize to boot into regular Recovery mode instead of Internet Recovery mode.

I am confused because all these guides seem to be for the same result (fresh re-installation of the OS) but totally different methods.

I am not sure which method is best to ensure that I have a clean install when I suspect OS corruption. I am not sure if using Time Machine restore will also possible copy a corrupted state back onto the system, or if this just involves user data, since the guides talk about how Time Machine will also recover the OS.
 
Apple’s Method to create a bootable MacOS Installer is a good one.


You’ll need to download the OS, then run a terminal command to create the bootable installer on a USB thumb drive. This will take a chunk of space on your HDD before creating the USB drive.

Alternately, you can use the recovery mode. Either will work to create a clean OS install on a new drive. Just be extra careful you don’t erase the old drive yet.

How much RAM is in your MBP? Low RAM with a full HDD could be one reason your MBP is slowing.
 
Would there be any difference (besides convenience), when using the bootable MacOS Installer vs. Recovery mode? My guess would be that creating bootable media would ensure that no corruption is copied over in case the Recovery image is corrupt? (If it is even possible for the OS image to be corrupt and still run ok but slow, I'm not sure).

It has 4GB RAM and the system resource monitor shows there is more than 1G RAM free while using all the apps (in any case, I will be upgrading to 16GB at the same time). It has a 500GB HDD and only 100GB is used so far. So there seems to be plenty of drive space and memory. The system resource monitor shows only a tiny bit of CPU, memory, disk, network, etc. utilization which leads me to suspect it is a problem at the system or OS level rather than at the application level (otherwise it should show the CPU and/or other resources pegged at a high utilization).

I also think it might be the hard drive ribbon cable, which tends to fail in this model.

Thanks much.
 
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Some sort of macOS corruption is only a theory at this point and you might be able to save yourself a hassle by just cloning your internal to a new SSD attached via USB and seeing how that runs. If it runs well you can then swap with the internal.

You don't need a housing, really. One of these will do:

 
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OP:

Before going further, be aware that the 2012 MBP can have problems with the drive ribbon cable. It gets "flaky" over time. When that happens, communication gets lost/interrupted between the drive and the motherboard. To the user, this seems like "the drive has failed". But in truth, the drive can be good, it's the CABLE that is flaking out.
A replacement cable is a cheap part. Go to ifixit.com to see the details on how to replace it and the drive.
You might want to order a new cable along with the stuff below.
OK, now let's get on with drive replacement.

I suggest you clone the contents of your existing drive to the new SSD below.
It's just easier this way.
Chances are, it's not the software on the HDD that's slowing you down.
It could be the ribbon cable (see above), or the drive is fragmented, etc.
Try "my way" first. If that doesn't work, just erase the drive and start over.
You can use the old drive (which by then will be in the enclosure) when you setup the clean install (using setup assistant).

Replacing the drive is an easy procedure that ANYONE can do.
All you need are a few items and tools.
Don't overthink it -- just DO it.

First, what you need:
- A 2.5" SATA SSD of your choice. I like Crucial and Sandisk.
- A Phillips #00 driver and a TORX T-6 driver (cheap and easily found in hardware stores or online)
- An enclosure like this:
- Finally, download CarbonCopyCloner from here (but don't open it yet):
CCC is FREE to download and use for 30 days.

When you have all this stuff:
First, do this:
- Put the SSD into the enclosure (for now). It just snaps closed.

Then...
- Connect the drive to the MPB.
- Open disk utility
- Erase/initialize the drive. You want "APFS with GUID partition format".
- When done, quit disk utility.

Next...
- Open CarbonCopyCloner
- Click through the initial stuff to get to the "main screen".
- You will see "three boxes".
- In the left one, select the MBP internal drive (your "source")
- In the middle one, select the SSD in the external enclosure (your target)
- Don't worry about the box on the right (scheduling)
- Click clone. Follow through.
- If CCC asks if you wish to clone the recovery partition, YES, do this too.
- Let CCC do its thing. It will take a little while.

Then...
- When the clone is done, now it's time to TEST IT.
- Reboot the MBP
- IMMEDIATELY hold down the option key and KEEP HOLDING IT DOWN until the startup manager appears.
- Do you see the SSD in startup manager? If so, click on it with the pointer and hit return
- Do you get a good boot?
- If so, get to the finder and "look around". Do things look good?
- If so, power down and get your tools

Now...
- Open up the MBP. Take note of where the long screws go.
- Gently lift the drive out and remove it from the cable.
- If you're going to replace the cable, now's the time to do it. DO NOT use anything "metal" to lift the cable from the motherboard connection !!!
- On the side of the drive, you'll see 4 "bosses" sticking out. Use the TORX driver to remove these, and put them on the sides of the SSD
- Now put the SSD and ribbon cable back into place
- I'd suggest you put just 4-5 screws in the back for now to "tack it in place"
- Now it's time to "test the installation"

So do this...
- Press the power on button and again IMMEDIATELY hold down the option key to invoke the startup manager again.
- Select the newly-installed drive (should be the only icon) and hit return.
THE MOMENT OF TRUTH:
- Do you get a good boot? Can you log in to the finder?
- If so, you're getting close to done
- Open the startup disk pref pane and set the SSD to be the new boot drive
- Now, power down.
- Put all the screws back
- Now, reboot again -- DO NOT use the option key this time.
- Do you get a quick bootup to your login page? That's what we want to see.
- If so, you're done.

One more thing:
- Put the old drive into the enclosure.
- It will now become your backup -- or, just use it for extra storage.

Good luck.
 
Fishrrman directions are pretty much the steps I use to upgrade to an SSD. But I would either replace the SATA cable before starting any of it, or at least check the SATA cable by removing the drive and putting it in an external enclosure and booting from it. If all runs well from the external enclosure then I would say the SATA cable is bad. Trying to clone with a bad SATA cable would be an exercise in frustration.

I have replaced the cable in both of my 2012 MacBook Pro 13's and in a couple of friends 2010 and 2011 MBP 13. For the $12-$14 they cost, I would just replace it.
 
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Fishrrman directions are pretty much the steps I use to upgrade to an SSD. But I would either replace the SATA cable before starting any of it, or at least check the SATA cable by removing the drive and putting it in an external enclosure and booting from it. If all runs well from the external enclosure then I would say the SATA cable is bad. Trying to clone with a bad SATA cable would be an exercise in frustration.

I have replaced the cable in both of my 2012 MacBook Pro 13's and in a couple of friends 2010 and 2011 MBP 13. For the $12-$14 they cost, I would just replace it.

Good info, thanks! I am definitely replacing the SATA cable. I suspect that's the root cause of the severe slowdown.

I am still inclined to do a clean install from a bootable USB drive, however, because I remember this MacBook was infected by malware a year ago, which I removed using the Malwarebytes app. The only way I can be 100% sure that system files are not corrupted by this past malware attack is via clean install. This Macbook belongs to my elderly next door neighbor. I made a TimeMachine backup of user data unchecking the box for system files and apps. Now I am going to look for a way to inventory the system so I can re-install all apps and personalized settings.
 
ddbear, you have company. I've ordered a new SATA cable, and will see how that works before going the SSD route.
 
I also like @Fishrman approach because it enables you to test the new installation before opening the computer.

Agreed. I did basically this last year when I put a new SSD into my iMac. After the clone was complete, I was able to boot off of the new drive in a USB enclosure before installing it inside the iMac. I ran it like that for a day or two just to be absolutely certain everything was working right.

When I finally did the install, got the drive into the actual iMac and sealed it up again, it booted up immediately and I signed in -- it was almost a completely seamless transition from my old drive to the new one. (I say "almost" because I think Creative Cloud got cranky about the new drive and had to be re-registered, but that was it.)
 
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