Hi! A while ago, I got an Indigo iBook clamshell mostly to fix up/fool around with Linux. When I plug in the power cord, it only holds a charge if I put it in a certain position. So far, I've only been able to find fixes for the YoYo charger and not the jack itself, but for some other laptops that've had a similar problem, I've seen people recommend resoldering the power jack to the logic board. Should that work, or should I try something else? I have access to a soldering iron and solder (It's the kind of solder used for stained glass, should that work?), so that wouldn't be a problem.
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EDITED: Broken Clamshell iBook
- Thread starter Ariii
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yes you can as long as you can fried it .they are very OLD!
Okay... thanks! I'll try that now...
I just took it apart, except I think I put one of the screws back on the DC-in board the wrong way, and I need to unscrew it or I can't put it together again. The problem is that the screw still moves around, but it won't go up again. I wouldn't like to think it's broken beyond repair just because of one screw, but I'm afraid it is. Any help?
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Sorry for posting so many of these, I don't think the problems are related enough to be in one post.
Okay, I just decided to put it together again without taking the DC-in board screw out and there's now a slight bulge in the EMI shield because of it. The power jack is a little bit better, but I couldn't access it directly because I couldn't get the screw off. Upon reassembling it, I got a problem with the hinge. It makes three little clicking noises as I move it up and down.
Okay, I just decided to put it together again without taking the DC-in board screw out and there's now a slight bulge in the EMI shield because of it. The power jack is a little bit better, but I couldn't access it directly because I couldn't get the screw off. Upon reassembling it, I got a problem with the hinge. It makes three little clicking noises as I move it up and down.
Screw
Sounds like you have the incorrect screw in that spot or that spot is stripped. As for the hinge it sounds like something is miss aligned as it shouldn't make any noise, like it's rubbing on something. I have 5 of these ( 3 work 2 for parts bad mobo's ). The dc board should not count on that screw to charge. It plugs into the motherboard and the screw holds it solid. Since the screw is loose sounds like it was dropped or cord was yanked ( why they came up with MagSafe btw) and the connection of the dc board is questionable, thats why it was suggested you solder it, that way it's solid no matter about that screw or not.
Good luck.
Sounds like you have the incorrect screw in that spot or that spot is stripped. As for the hinge it sounds like something is miss aligned as it shouldn't make any noise, like it's rubbing on something. I have 5 of these ( 3 work 2 for parts bad mobo's ). The dc board should not count on that screw to charge. It plugs into the motherboard and the screw holds it solid. Since the screw is loose sounds like it was dropped or cord was yanked ( why they came up with MagSafe btw) and the connection of the dc board is questionable, thats why it was suggested you solder it, that way it's solid no matter about that screw or not.
Good luck.
I had a similar problem with a graphite iBook SE that I picked up from someone locally a few weeks ago. If you are savvy enough, the DC-in board can be replaced. It does require basically disassembling the entire machine, including detaching the display though so it depends on your comfort level.
I picked this one up on eBay for about $6 and it works like a charm, no twisting or holding of the charger plug required. This seems like a much easier solution than trying to repair your current DC-in board.
I picked this one up on eBay for about $6 and it works like a charm, no twisting or holding of the charger plug required. This seems like a much easier solution than trying to repair your current DC-in board.
Thanks! Another one I found on Fixit cost $100
. As for the popping noises, I think the problem is that the screen bezel is coming too close to the blue handle/hinge thing, which is causing that rubbing that makes the popping noise. I'm probably going to end up spending a lot on this, but it does look pretty cool .iFixit is an amazing resource but I wouldn't buy any parts from them, their prices are just too high. If I were repairing a computer for someone else and they request warrantied parts then that is another story, not my money in that case. As long as you have part numbers or know what you're looking for, eBay is going to be your cheapest bet for parts for vintage Macs.
If you do decide to repair or replace the DC-in board yourself, at least you'll have the chance to take the top case and clutch cover off again and re-seat them as well as any screws along the way. Hopefully that will resolve your popping issue.
If you do decide to repair or replace the DC-in board yourself, at least you'll have the chance to take the top case and clutch cover off again and re-seat them as well as any screws along the way. Hopefully that will resolve your popping issue.
Yeah, I agree about iFixit. A lot of the prices there for older technology can even be equivalent to parts for stuff that's still out there today.
I wonder if I could just take it to a hardware store or something to get the screw removed, or to at least find a good tool to get it removed.