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G4 Sawtooth - CPU upgrade / DIP Switch advice

D

duke2k7

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Oct 2, 2010
15
0
UK, Midlands
Hiya guys n gals!

Just become a member, and I'm lovin the site!

I've been a PC user for many many years, but have had a G4 Sawtooth for about 3 years now, its only a 400Mhz model, but I have just placed a 533Mhz G4 in there, and apparently I need to use a dip switch?

I just got a standard sized dip switch, so thats not a problem, I was wondering two things:


1. If anyone has a Sonnet for sale instead of using the G4
or
2. If you can offer up some advice on the easiest way for my G4 to recognise the new 533 CPU?


Thanks in advance,
 
duke2k7 said:
Hiya guys n gals!

Just become a member, and I'm lovin the site!

I've been a PC user for many many years, but have had a G4 Sawtooth for about 3 years now, its only a 400Mhz model, but I have just placed a 533Mhz G4 in there, and apparently I need to use a dip switch?

I just got a standard sized dip switch, so thats not a problem, I was wondering two things:


1. If anyone has a Sonnet for sale instead of using the G4
or
2. If you can offer up some advice on the easiest way for my G4 to recognise the new 533 CPU?


Thanks in advance,
Click to expand...

I don't think that the 530mhz model will work in the sawtooth since it came from a DA model with a 133mhz bus and the sawtooth has only a 100mhz bus. I believe you would have to overclock the bus to make it work. The fastest Apple genuine CPU you could use is the dual 500mhz version. Also, Newbies aren't allowed to buy or sell on this website until they get a certain number of posts. Then you should go to the marketplace to buy or sell.
 
So, you've installed this and it does not work? Without making any changes to the bus timing ratio, it should still boot--Just at a slower speed. The bus timing ratio is set with tiny surface mount resistors on the CPU card. Once we verify that this CPU works, I (or someone else) can tell you how to make these adjustments.

What happens when you try to boot the machine? Is this a single or dual 533 card? If it's a dual, have you verified that your Sawtooth board will work with dual cpu's?

If anyone has a Sonnet for sale instead of using the G4
Click to expand...

It's not a Sonnet, but I think this is a pretty good deal for $178. Better deals can be found on eBay, but OWC offers a 1 year warranty and has a good reputation.

However, depending on where you live, the same money might get you a better G4 with a faster system bus from Craig's List.
 
raysfan81 said:
I don't think that the 530mhz model will work in the sawtooth since it came from a DA model with a 133mhz bus and the sawtooth has only a 100mhz bus. I believe you would have to overclock the bus to make it work.
Click to expand...

Incorrect. 533 MHz CPU from DA should work in Sawtooth without bus and multiplier adjusting, only @400 MHz. It works with 100 MHz bus normally, just with lower frequency, which comes from CPU multiplier (x4 for 533 DA module) x bus speed. For example, you can see Giuly's Sawtooth thread

The fastest Apple genuine CPU you could use w/o modifications is the dual 500mhz version.
Click to expand...

Fixed it a little ;)

OP, is this CPU was tested before pulled out from DA? Are you sure that it's installed properly (no bent pins in CPU socket etc.)? Is there "chime sound" after pressing power btn?

If you'll make it work in your Sawtooth, you can overclock this CPU to 600-650 MHz safely - if you're familiar with soldering.
 
666sheep said:
Incorrect. 533 MHz CPU from DA should work in Sawtooth without bus and multiplier adjusting, only @400 MHz. It works with 100 MHz bus normally, just with lower frequency, which comes from CPU multiplier (x4 for 533 DA module) x bus speed. For example, you can see Giuly's Sawtooth thread
Click to expand...

Oops I remember reading that a while back. :rolleyes:



OP, is this CPU was tested before pulled out from DA? Are you sure that it's installed properly (no bent pins in CPU socket etc.)? Is there "chime sound" after pressing power btn?
Click to expand...

and definitely if it had previously bent pens or you didn't install it quite right thats would be your problem as to why its not working.
 
no chime sound when i turn it on, is this bad? :(

sorry for asking silly questions, but i love my little powermac.
 
and thank you for the link to OWC - i think thatll be on my xmas wish list!

I'm guessing that the OWC 1.6Ghz upgrade fits in with no extra messing about? Literally plug and play, as opposed to windows plug and pray, haha


Cheers.
 
duke2k7 said:
no chime sound when i turn it on, is this bad? :(
Click to expand...

Kinda bad (unless you muted sound before CPU change). Chime means that POST passed succesfully. If there's no beep, it means that new CPU is not recognized.
Is this 533 card was working before you put it in Sawtooth? Or you bought it on eBay or elsewhere without possibility to test it first?

Remove processor card and check for bent pins in socket (on logic board and daughtercard too). If there will be some bent ones, you must fix them gently. Next reseat CPU and heatsink and try again. You can reset PMU before pushing power btn.

Keep us posted.
 
uh-oh...


My mac still works OK, reconises the CPU as 400Mhz still though as opposed to 533...

Also, still no sound from boot, take about 30 seconds to boot into OSX.

Any ideas guys? How can i get into the BIOS, if there is such a thing on Macs?

Ta:confused:
 
just checked again...


still no sound at boot, NO bent pins, carefully double and triple checked that...


Still taking a while to boot up though... and my bluetooth dongle has stopped responding, or as much as it is no longer showing in profiler...

is my mac dying on me?:(
 
There's no good reason to use that 533MHz chip in your G4--as stated above, it'll likely just be running at 400MHz anyways. For the easiest upgrade, find an original dual 500MHz pulled from a Gigabit Ethernet G4, or get a Sonnet.
 
To get sound at boot back, just reset PRAM.

A little misunderstanding happened here (by my side) :) I thought that your Mac does not work with new CPU... but if it works...

You need to adjust CPU multiplier now, to get CPU work with higher frequency. Now your new CPU has multiplier set to 4, so @100 MHz bus you got 400 MHz. If you set it to 6 or 6.5 you'll get 600 or 650 MHz. It would be some improvement over 400 MHz you got now. 533 MHz CPU is able to run @600 even 650 without any glitches.

http://power-mac-g4.com/g4digitalaudioclockup.html - here is explanation how to overclock this CPU. If you're skilled in soldering, it would be easy to do. It has one major advantage over buying 500 Dual card: it's costless :)

More questions? Just ask :)
 
hi guys,

just a quick update...

still no chime at startup, but last night i took the bridging resistor off one of the traces and my 400mhz now runs completely smoothly at 500mhz, as quoted by system profiler!

My new 450 arrived today, i think i'll pop that in and then tinker with the 'optimized' 400 i had in there.

By the way, thanks for allllll the hlep guys, much appreciated!
 
Good to hear you managed to do it :) It's 25% CPU speed improvement.
Now you're two resistors from 600 MHz and you'll get another 25%. You need to desolder/remove R9 and bridge R11 (small drop of solder will be good for that purpose).
 
Success!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek::):eek::)


I now have a lovely chime at startup, with my overclocked g4 running at 500Mhz.


Thanks to you all for the help and advice.

I think I'll do what you suggest and try tuning it up to about 650, possibly 700 with trace bridges, but I am going to make sure i put active cooling in there...

If the cpu blows, that 450 i bought works a treat so i still have a working mac.

Any ideas for the best active cooling other than a well-placed 80mm case fan?

Ta.
 
666sheep said:
Good to hear you managed to do it :) It's 25% CPU speed improvement.
Now you're two resistors from 600 MHz and you'll get another 25%. You need to desolder/remove R9 and bridge R11 (small drop of solder will be good for that purpose).
Click to expand...


thanks for that, i was thinking about a trace pen... any good? either that or a cocktail stick and some conductive paint...


...I'm kinda crap at soldering...:rolleyes:
 
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