It has been "WORKING" since 4am easter time... But I have not been able to place my order yet... 3 hours, and 11 minutes... Not counting the time I was checking their page, and forums looking for news...
I'm in the same boat as Romeo. Are you sure you're not viewing a cached version of apple.com or something? It says pre-order clear as day at apple.com/store. Not that it means anything since their site is a pile of f*** right now and has been for the past 3 hours and 20 mins.
Logged into my account, clicked on upgrade phone, and I was able to order the 32 GB black iPhone 4 with my existing 30 dollar unlimited data plan at 5 am EST. AT&T gave me an order number saying that I will receive it as early as June 24th and for those that preorder by June 22, that you'll receive the new iPhone as early as June 24th, and it's first come first serve. Since I ordered early at 5 am EST, I should receive it on June 24, and my credit card has been charged the 299 upgrade amount plus NJ state taxes and free overnight shipping.
Looks like the servers are overwhelmed with preorders.