How to sell this basketball card?

[someguy]

I've been doing some early Spring cleaning lately. In doing so, I came across a card identical to the one recently sold here.

I would love to sell it for $200+, but I have no idea where to begin. Mine is not certified in any way, but I could take very high-quality images to show that its condition is pristine.

Any tips on getting a fair price for this item without investing too much time, effort, and money?

 

[someguy]

Is thread bumping allowed?

If no one has any advice, I suppose I'll put it on eBay and see what happens. :shrug:

 

[madoka]

Go here:

https://www.blowoutforums.com/forumdisplay.php?f=6

Either ask them how to sell or sell it in their marketplace.

 

[someguy]

I will do that. Thanks!

 

[Tomorrow]

With cards, condition is almost everything. You could try taking it to a card store and seeing if someone there could give you an opinion on its rating (unofficial, of course) and see what they might offer you for it.

 

[someguy]

With cards, condition is almost everything. You could try taking it to a card store and seeing if someone there could give you an opinion on its rating (unofficial, of course) and see what they might offer you for it.

I understand. I'm just not sure if it's worth trying to have the condition PSA certified (as an example) versus just taking high-quality pictures of it and posting it on eBay.

 

[laptech]

I understand. I'm just not sure if it's worth trying to have the condition PSA certified (as an example) versus just taking high-quality pictures of it and posting it on eBay.

If your card is not in any kind of protected enclosure then that will affect it's value.

If it has not been given an official quality rating, this will also affect it's value.

The reason the ebay one sold high is because it is in near pristine condition and was protected in an enclosure.

You will not get the same price unless you can prove your card is a perfect 10/10 for condition, no colour fades, no damaged edges, not bent or curved.

 

[someguy]

If your card is not in any kind of protected enclosure then that will affect it's value.

If it has not been given an official quality rating, this will also affect it's value.

The reason the ebay one sold high is because it is in near pristine condition and was protected in an enclosure.

You will not get the same price unless you can prove your card is a perfect 10/10 for condition, no colour fades, no damaged edges, not bent or curved.

This makes sense to me. It is in amazing condition. In fact, I believe my card to be in the best possible condition taking into account the fact that is was only physically handled once before being placed into a thick acrylic casing and put into storage. It has never been handled and I cannot identify any imperfections whatsoever.

That said, without sending it out for professional inspection, the best I can do is get good photos of it and make them available to potential buyers, right? If that's the case, do you think I should carefully remove it from the enclosure just long enough to take clear photos of it? Normally I would not remove it, but the enclosure itself has endured some minor scratches over time. See the attached image as an example.

 

[laptech]

I would not take it out of it's casing. If what you say is true then yours could be what some would call a 'prefect 10' condition wise.

One thing i missed on the ebay auction is 'rarity'. That card was numbered 77, yours is 847 which makes the other card more rare. Even if your's was a 'perfect 10', being 847 will still affect it's price.

Seeing that your card is also in a protective enclosure and the conditions you say it got to being in there, i would seriously suggest you get it professional inspected/graded because if you don't, the chances are you could sell it at a lower price and the buyer, seeing an opportunity here, does all the things you weren't prepared to do and manages to sell it at a higher price.

Also remember, to get anywhere close to the ebay price of the other card, you have got to have collectors who really want the card because if that person is not there, it wont get close to the price your looking for.

 

[Apple_Robert]

I've been doing some early Spring cleaning lately. In doing so, I came across a card identical to the one recently sold here.

I would love to sell it for $200+, but I have no idea where to begin. Mine is not certified in any way, but I could take very high-quality images to show that its condition is pristine.

Any tips on getting a fair price for this item without investing too much time, effort, and money?

Unless your card has been graded by PSA or SCG, you won't see anywhere near the dollar amount noted with the eBay auction. You would be lucky to get $50 dollars for that card raw (read: ungraded).

You could try selling on eBay. If you do, you would be taking a risk, as you would have to note every minute detail of the cards measurements and condition, lest you find yourself with a unhappy buyer, which could still be the case.

I have bought and sold thousands upon thousands of dollars of sports cards over the years. In my opinion, you should keep the card and pass it down to a family member at some point, unless you are willing to spend the money to get the card graded and roll the auction dice. I don't think it is financially worth it.

 

[0388631]

PSA has authorized grader dealers in their directory system.

 

[azbronco]

PSA will charge you $20 if the value is under $500. Definitely worth the cost because if the card is really worth $200--you'll more than make up the expense. But make sure you really know what it's worth--the number 77 vs 847 could be a huge difference depending on how many were printed of the higher number.

 

[someguy]

I would not take it out of it's casing. If what you say is true then yours could be what some would call a 'prefect 10' condition wise.

It's true, but it's not like I can prove that. All I can prove is the quality by taking photos or getting the condition certified, which I am now looking into.

One thing i missed on the ebay auction is 'rarity'. That card was numbered 77, yours is 847 which makes the other card more rare. Even if your's was a 'perfect 10', being 847 will still affect it's price.

Can you explain this? I don't see what difference the number makes, but if it matters, I'll just have to accept that.

I have bought and sold thousands upon thousands of dollars of sports cards over the years. In my opinion, you should keep the card and pass it down to a family member at some point, unless you are willing to spend the money to get the card graded and roll the auction dice. I don't think it is financially worth it.

I understand where you're coming from with this comment. To be honest, I just want to get what I can get for it, and if there's something relatively simple I can do to significantly increase the selling price, I want to be aware of it. For example, I would probably sell it for around $100 if it meant dropping it in the mailbox and being done with it. I do value my time enough that I'm not going to put much time into this just for another $50, but I may for another hundred, if that makes sense. The only reason I'm asking you guys at all is because your input might also be useful to have before attempting to sell other cards I currently own.

PSA has authorized grader dealers in their directory system.

I did not know this! There is a place about 30 minutes from me and I've left them a message. Maybe they can help. Thanks for the information!

PSA will charge you $20 if the value is under $500. Definitely worth the cost because if the card is really worth $200--you'll more than make up the expense.

Hopefully the shop I mentioned earlier in this comment will be able to help with this.

But make sure you really know what it's worth--the number 77 vs 847 could be a huge difference depending on how many were printed of the higher number.

I'm not sure what you mean by this. My understanding is that there were 2,000 individually numbered prints of this card issued to the public, and mine is 847 out of 2,000. The only 847. Is that not what this means? None of the other cards with different numbers printed seem to differ in any other way.

 

[laptech]

I'm not sure what you mean by this. My understanding is that there were 2,000 individually numbered prints of this card issued to the public, and mine is 847 out of 2,000. The only 847. Is that not what this means? None of the other cards with different numbers printed seem to differ in any other way.

As daft as this might sound, in the collecting world, you card would be considered 'old' with regards to it's production run number. Granted only 1 to 2000 were produced but the closest number to '1' you can get, the more value it has because it was produced earlier. A card that has a number anywhere below 100 is going to sell a lot higher than a card numbered 1000 and above. It's just how it works.

 

[someguy]

As daft as this might sound, in the collecting world, you card would be considered 'old' with regards to it's production run number. Granted only 1 to 2000 were produced but the closest number to '1' you can get, the more value it has because it was produced earlier. A card that has a number anywhere below 100 is going to sell a lot higher than a card numbered 1000 and above. It's just how it works.

Seems silly to me, but I understand. I'll keep this in mind.

I've submitted some basic information to an official PSA Dealer, so we'll see where that leads.