Thanks for the tip. I just tried taking one photo with even longer for 1 min and 10 seconds and one with the built in app.
This is the normal camera app, jpeg:
This is even longer, jpg since I have not payed yet:
Look at the bright parts, total blown out. If I focus on some place on screen it wont measure light there.
Hi Kave, Thanks for the samples. The even longer app does not use smart HDR or any HDR, it’s like a DSLR. The focus just focuses without affecting the exposure of the scene, you’ll have to adjust that yourself. You’ll have to use the exposure compensation tool to adjust the brightness to control the highlights in the scene. This is why I shoot in RAW for this app. It’s still a fantastic app for stacking images in jpeg but much better in RAW. You just have to expose for the highlights and lift the shadows in post. If you have a DSLR and know how that works then this app isn’t much different, it’s just data with no HDR or computational photography built in. I’ll usually set a -1EV for daytime shots and adjust from there and I’ll just take a 10-15 second exposure to see how the highlights look. The app doesn’t add light to the exposure during the day or night as the photo is being taken, you’ll have to get it exposed the way you like it first then shoot away. Since there are so many shots stacked, you can stretch (lift shadows) a lot because there is no noise especially with raw. I’m paying the yearly subscription at the moment because I wanted to test the app. The developer is a smart guy! There are a couple of YouTube videos featuring even longer made by a user of the app, he’s English and talks a little slow, but very detailed. Link, it’s a year old. There are others as well: Shayne Mostyn is a good guy to watch also. The video is very helpful in understanding the app, hopefully you’ll watch it.
Below is an example of a -2ev shot I took on a cloudy day in Colorado, I exposed for the highlights & lifted the shadows in Lightroom mobile. The under exposed image is a screenshot of the raw file. Jpeg isn’t as forgiving as a raw file which is why I don’t use jpeg much. You just have to watch the highlights just like you would when shooting jpeg with a DSLR. My goal was to blur the water during a 40” exposure. I used the frame averaging mode (FA) for the shot. This app is designed to do only a couple of things: blur water and clouds for that silky look during the day and produce stunning star trails of the night sky when in star trails mode (ST) and take those cool cityscape shots with cars passing on the highway when using Light Trails mode (LT). With so may stacked images, the final image is so clean. Take in mind that with any long exposure on any device, wind blown trees will be blurred. There are a lot of Even Longer examples on Instagram, search #shotwithevenlonger to see. If you are familiar with a neutral density filter for a DSLR that photographers use to take 30” exposures in the daytime to blur water and clouds, then this app accomplishes the same thing much faster and easier with up to 24 hours of exposure time. It just takes some getting used to. The user is in full control when using this app.
It’s a specific app and it’s not for everyone, just for those who like long exposures and working at getting the best image possible. You’ll get Fantastic results when you’ve mastered the app and know how it works. I’ve used this app for practicing product photography by using the 3x camera and 1-3 minutes exposure in the house for incredibly sharp detailed images. I included a screenshot of my settings. Anyway I hope this helps… excuse the long winded post…
LUNAR ECLIPSE STAR TRAIL
Data
I JUST TOOK AND ADDED THESE.
The flower arrangement was a 40” exposure at -1ev because the 0.0ev was too bright. So starting off with a -1 ev is a good start with jpeg or raw. These were raw. Since the image was so clean and clear, I can easily resize the image to 25 or 33mp equivalent for printing. The image holds very well to resizing.
This app is fun to use! It’s capable of so much.
