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zachsilvey

macrumors 6502
Original poster
Feb 5, 2008
444
3
Battle Ground
Any other Magic Mouse users that gave had connection issues. When the battery level drops below 50% on mine a slight bump or drop will cause it to loose connection momentarily. It isn't a huge issue but can be annoying.
 
The same…

It is happening to me also.
With the smallest bump, in example when I pickup the mouse to move it in my desk and I touch the 'ground' the connection is lost. It's very annoying:mad: The strange thing is that it wasn't happened at start but gradually. So it makes me think that it's something related with the hardware and not related i.e. with batteries used (as I saw in some suggestions) or the bluetooth connection itself (the mouse shuts down completely for a second).
Need to point that the same thing happens with the trackpad.
I have both for year and a half now and the strange thing is that they both started having the same problem almost simultaneously.
It makes me think…
 
We have multiple iMacs at work and most of them do this. It seems to be battery related though as we can go for a while without it happening, then suddenly they all do it at the same time. I put it down to dodgy batch of batteries but perhaps not!?
 
Another victim! Absolutely in the same boat with my mouse. No solution found as of today.
 
fixed

I have a Magic Mouse at home and at work, and they both had this problem. My solution was to fold up a piece of paper and put it on top of the batteries before putting the battery cover on. This keeps the batteries in place when the mouse is jarred, and it seems to have fixed the problem.
 
this has happened to me i picked the mouse up to move it and dropped it by accident about 4 inches from the desk and its connection was lost. it wasnt a big drop but enough to likely jitter the batteries.
 
Same here, seems to be a common problem. The mouse always manages to reconnect but it's still annoying if you're really in the zone.
 
Magic Mouse keeps loosing connection easy fix

Hi there i been seeing a lot of posts about this and its mostly all to do with the battery as everyone rightly points out. A very slight difference in size makes the terminals not connect. The easiest way to fix this is to get a pair of pliers and simply squash the protruding terminal on your obviously slightly too small batteries. I point out that its only a slight squeeze, pinch once and then move the pliers around and pinch again. The idea is to deform the cap just enough to lengthen. It works for me and in no way recommend this without a degree of care but hey it works.
 
Any other Magic Mouse users that gave had connection issues. When the battery level drops below 50% on mine a slight bump or drop will cause it to loose connection momentarily. It isn't a huge issue but can be annoying.

Try using a small piece of paper in there under and above the batteries to keep it steady. I do not have this issue but have used others's mice that had this same problem. That is how I fixed it for them...
 
I had this problem and it frustrated me to know end. I then realized the batteries were not seated proper and viola back to normal.
 
Batteries not made to standard??

I have had a related problem with my otherwise fine Magic Mouse. Several times, when the batteries went dead, I changed them to new ones. Some (actually quite a few different) did NOT work in the MM - i.e. no light when switched on. What I have discovered is the following:
- Duracell of almost any type AA is a no-go, won't work in the MM
- Duracell rechargeable AA more or less the same
- Energizer rechargeable AA more or less the same
- Normal Energizer AA - some will work, actually most of them
And when I found batteries that worked I have had absolutely no issues with sudden connection losses.

I just today ran out of power - and much to my frustration I only had rechargeable AA's and Duracell AA's in stock, no normal Energizers. I looked high and low and discovered a few IKEA AA's lying around in my daughters desk drawer (I guess i bought them for a small torch or her LED light chains together with unnecessary items which you always buy when in IKEA).
Presto!! The mouse worked perfectly with the IKEA batteries (and no rattling around)

I have found a few references to problems with Duracell batteries (and other brands) and it seems that maybe Apple decided that Duracell was not Apple standard. So some batteries apparently has too short +terminals to connect properly. This is a simple game of trial and error.
Seen in the light that the size was standardized by ANSI in 1947, it's frustrating that different manufacturers utilizes different ranges of the tolerances and Apple's MM likewise. But anyway - IKEA saved the day...
 
Batteries not made to standard??

I have had a related problem with my otherwise fine Magic Mouse. Several times, when the batteries went dead, I changed them to new ones. Some (actually quite a few different) did NOT work in the MM - i.e. no light when switched on. What I have discovered is the following:
- Duracell of almost any type AA is a no-go, won't work in the MM
- Duracell rechargeable AA more or less the same
- Energizer rechargeable AA more or less the same
- Normal Energizer AA - some will work, actually most of them
And when I found batteries that worked I have had absolutely no issues with sudden connection losses.

I just today ran out of power - and much to my frustration I only had rechargeable AA's and Duracell AA's in stock, no normal Energizers. I looked high and low and discovered a few IKEA AA's lying around in my daughters desk drawer (I guess i bought them for a small torch or her LED light chains together with unnecessary items which you always buy when in IKEA).
Presto!! The mouse worked perfectly with the IKEA batteries (and no rattling around)

I have found a few references to problems with Duracell batteries (and other brands) and it seems that maybe Apple decided that Duracell was not Apple standard. So some batteries apparently has too short +terminals to connect properly. This is a simple game of trial and error.
Seen in the light that the size was standardized by ANSI in 1947, it's frustrating that different manufacturers utilizes different ranges of the tolerances and Apple's MM likewise. But anyway - IKEA saved the day...
Hi i tried wrapping aluminium foil around both positive ends of the batteries and hey presto no moire connection isssues.
 
In my case, I hadn't noticed that batteries from long ago must have leaked and left some residue and corrosion on the contacts where the batteries touch the mouse. The contacts should be mirror-clean, no white haze of any sort. The traditional method to clean contacts like this is with a pencil eraser, but that may not be handy. In my case, I balled up a bit of the t-shirt I was wearing and got in there to clean them up. It was still a problem after a few minutes of that, one of the contacts was a little corroded. So I used the edge of the battery door to scrape the contact clean. It took a few times of cleaning, assembling and testing with some bumps each time, but now I have it working properly. Hope it helps others...
 
In my case it turned out to be the battery door, turns out if it's too flat it won't hold the batteries in place, I put a very slight banana bend to it, bending the two ends upward (when mouse is right side up). I had two mice and figured it out when I swapped the doors while troubleshooting and changing the batteries.
Thought this post might help someone else, maybe someone like me who didn't want to use the paper or foil methods.
 
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