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JulesK

macrumors 6502a
Original poster
Dec 17, 2002
530
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I discovered that my late-2013 MBP has a swollen battery; I didn't notice it for a (long) while because I use it primarily in clamshell mode - a cautionary tale. It still works, but the trackpad only works if you press one spot, and computer doesn't sit flat. Fortunately, I have both Backblaze and Time Machines backups, so I'm not concerned about having lost data. Even more fortunately, I had just picked up a new 2020 13" MBP as replacement, so I want to just erase the SSD on the old computer and recycle it at the local Apple store.

My question is this: If I use Migration Assistant to transfer from my Time Machine drive just the "User" folder only (not "Applications", "Other files and folders" or "Computer and Network Settings", which are the other options), will that transfer the Documents, Desktop, Movies, Music and Pictures folders from my old computer? Those really are the only folders I care about. Does anyone know what the "Other files and folders" option covers? Applications I will reload; any computer and network settings I need came over when I used my Apple ID to set up the new computer.

Because my old computer had years of old files, bloat, etc, I had planned to manually delete a bunch of old stuff and just transfer over what I wanted, but I want to use the old computer as little as possible given its condition. I'll have to do the cleanup on the new computer, but want to transfer over as little as possible beyond the documents, photos and movies I care about.

Many thanks in advance!
 
I understand the want to just bring over your generated user files etc and leave the crud behind and for sure that should be possible with just migrating your user folder and the installing apps afresh. You might miss out on the odd settings file here and there from not migrating system and Application folders but that's rarely as bad as we think. Had the same bloated battery on my 2011 MBP where I didn't use it for years and found it 4 times it's usual size with the bottom case detached - it literally blew it off, regardless of well driven home screws and indeed pushed my trackpad out of the computer.
 
Thanks. I'm in the process of just bringing over just selected sub-folders from my user folder, and can go back and retrieve from Backblaze at least for the next 30 days anything that I missed. I turned off Backblaze back-ups from my old computer, so hopefully the last back-up will remain there until I switch the account over to my new computer; I'll have TM on the new one. This will give me a good chance to consolidate a bunch of photo databases.
 
OP:

If you choose to migrate ONLY the "users", it should transfer your account ID and the stuff that's in your home folder over to the new one.

You might want to migrate settings, as well.

Having said that, you have to be careful about HOW and WHEN you "migrate".

There is a common mistake many make when setting up a new Mac to replace an older one. That mistake is:

They take the new Mac out of the box, power it up, create a NEW account, and THEN try to migrate their stuff.
The problem here is that they end up with TWO primary "user accounts" -- the "new" one, and the "old" one, which gets brought over but the OS thinks it's a DIFFERENT person, and then they start getting permissions problems, etc.

The proper way to migrate is to:
- BEFORE you open the box (for the new one), do a final backup on the old one if possible.
- Open the box and put the new one on the table, but DO NOT press the power on button yet
- Connect your backup drive
- NOW press the power on button
- Begin clicking through the setup
- At the right time, setup assistant will ask if you wish to migrate from another Mac/drive -- YES, you want to do this
- Next, "point" setup assistant at the backup and give it time to "digest" everything (it takes a while)
- Setup assistant will now present you with a list of stuff to migrate.
- Everything is chosen by default. You would want to uncheck stuff, perhaps leaving only "users" and perhaps "settings" checked.
- Finally, let setup assistant do its thing. When done, you should see the login screen, same as on your previous Mac.

Something else I'd like to mention, and it's going to be controversial:
If you do the same thing with the new MacBook as you did with the old one, chances are the battery is going to "swell up" on the new one as well.

That is... leave it in clamshell mode almost all the time, and it was probably plugged into the charger all the time, also -- right?

That's not the best way to "take care" of the battery.
The computer should be DISCONNECTED from the charger 2-3-4 times per week and allowed to run down to 35-40% or so, then reconnected.
Power should also be switched off each night. Pull the charger out of the wall, or connect it to a power strip and shut that off at night (even while the MacBook sleeps). Then re-connect in the morning.

That's my recommendation and I'm stickin' to it.
 
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OP:

If you choose to migrate ONLY the "users", it should transfer your account ID and the stuff that's in your home folder over to the new one.

You might want to migrate settings, as well.

Having said that, you have to be careful about HOW and WHEN you "migrate".

There is a common mistake many make when setting up a new Mac to replace an older one. That mistake is:

They take the new Mac out of the box, power it up, create a NEW account, and THEN try to migrate their stuff.
The problem here is that they end up with TWO primary "user accounts" -- the "new" one, and the "old" one, which gets brought over but the OS thinks it's a DIFFERENT person, and then they start getting permissions problems, etc.

The proper way to migrate is to:
- BEFORE you open the box (for the new one), do a final backup on the old one if possible.
- Open the box and put the new one on the table, but DO NOT press the power on button yet
- Connect your backup drive
- NOW press the power on button
- Begin clicking through the setup
- At the right time, setup assistant will ask if you wish to migrate from another Mac/drive -- YES, you want to do this
- Next, "point" setup assistant at the backup and give it time to "digest" everything (it takes a while)
- Setup assistant will now present you with a list of stuff to migrate.
- Everything is chosen by default. You would want to uncheck stuff, perhaps leaving only "users" and perhaps "settings" checked.
- Finally, let setup assistant do its thing. When done, you should see the login screen, same as on your previous Mac.

Something else I'd like to mention, and it's going to be controversial:
If you do the same thing with the new MacBook as you did with the old one, chances are the battery is going to "swell up" on the new one as well.

That is... leave it in clamshell mode almost all the time, and it was probably plugged into the charger all the time, also -- right?

That's not the best way to "take care" of the battery.
The computer should be DISCONNECTED from the charger 2-3-4 times per week and allowed to run down to 35-40% or so, then reconnected.
Power should also be switched off each night. Pull the charger out of the wall, or connect it to a power strip and shut that off at night (even while the MacBook sleeps). Then re-connect in the morning.

That's my recommendation and I'm stickin' to it.

Thanks for this information - As to the battery, I've learned my lesson. With the old MBP (which sat in a TwelveSouth BookArc), I was using it with a 24" ACD, so there were three wires (power, displayport and USB) connected to it from the monitor, and then TM to the open USB port, and it was basically a desktop that was too much of a hassle to disconnect. I got 6 years of good use out of it (and got it originally at a great discount); too bad it couldn't have been more as repairing it doesn't make sense now even if it could be fixed. With my 13" MBP, there's just one cable (USB-C) connecting it to my monitor, and I'll plug in TM once a month or so to keep that backed up, in addition to Backblaze, which saves 30 days' of versions. But the MBP will not be connected to power most of the time because I'm using the same monitor/connection with my work laptop, so the battery will get a workout. I was going to go with one of the new iMacs, but having two big screens on my desk wasn't going to work. I'm using the LG 27UK850-W (4K with 65W USB-C connection), and it works great for both laptops (PC and Mac); hopefully, the webcam I ordered will work equally well with both, too, as that's the main thing I'm missing if I use either laptop in clamshell mode when connected, which is what I want to do because using a single, large monitor is easier for me.

As for the transfer, I'm not going to transfer the folders themselves from the old to new (which is already set up). I'm just going to copy the data within the critical folders (Documents, Desktop, Pictures and Music and Movies) to an external SSD, and then transfer that same data into the same folders on the new Mac. I don't really care so much about Music and Movies as I use Apple Music and most of my movies are from the iTunes store, so can just re-download them. There are a few non-iTunes video files I'll transfer over from my Backblaze back-up. I want to bring over as little as possible.

It'll be a good, if time-consuming, exercise to start somewhat fresh. I realize that I have all these old floppy discs with files I thought I'd need in the future, but have never needed them so they will get trashed. Need to do the same with electronic files which are easy to just keep accumulating. I also need to consolidate three separate photo files (one is from iPhoto) and get rid of all the duplicates. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
"I'm just going to copy the data within the critical folders (Documents, Desktop, Pictures and Music and Movies) to an external SSD, and then transfer that same data into the same folders on the new Mac."

Something you need to do to avoid permissions problems when doing it this way:
1. Connect the SSD to the NEW Mac
2. Let its icon appear on the desktop
3. Click on the icon ONE TIME to select it
4. Bring up the "get info" box (command-i)
5. At the bottom of get info, click the lock and enter your password (the one you use with the NEW Mac)
6. Put a checkmark into "ignore ownership on this volume" (sharing and permissions)
7. Close get info.

Now you can copy things that came out of the "old account", and they will automatically "come under the ownership" of the new account to which you're copying them.
 
So I have a 2013 MBP that I just sent in for a battery swell and I use it the same way in the same arc. Apparently, I had brought the device to the apple store a few years back, but I completely forgot about it. Was that the same for you? I'm wondering if the battery swelling up every 3-4 years is the norm.
 
So I have a 2013 MBP that I just sent in for a battery swell and I use it the same way in the same arc. Apparently, I had brought the device to the apple store a few years back, but I completely forgot about it. Was that the same for you? I'm wondering if the battery swelling up every 3-4 years is the norm.
I also have an a1502 Late 2013 and I'm still using the original battery with no signs of swelling.
 
So I have a 2013 MBP that I just sent in for a battery swell and I use it the same way in the same arc. Apparently, I had brought the device to the apple store a few years back, but I completely forgot about it. Was that the same for you? I'm wondering if the battery swelling up every 3-4 years is the norm.

OP here: My was fine for fine for 6 years before it swelled. If it had been a couple of years earlier, I probably would have gotten it fixed, but it was time for another laptop, so I replaced it.
 
OP here: My was fine for fine for 6 years before it swelled. If it had been a couple of years earlier, I probably would have gotten it fixed, but it was time for another laptop, so I replaced it.
If it's been used mostly in clam shell mode, it's probably really clean. With a new battery it still has a lot of life left in it... heck, it even runs bigsur. Maybe you can consider getting it replaced, and then donating it to some poor kid. With all the home learning going on needing computers there are lots of less fortunate kids out there in need of machines. Or maybe send it as is to @MultiFinder17 on this forum... I believe he's in need of machines for his school and teachers in these strange times since everyone working from home etc.

Apple's battery replacement for $199 is a fantastic deal... it replaces the whole top case including keyboard, which gives you a shiny like new machine.

If it's in nice nick other than the battery, it'd be a real waste to just recycle. It can benefit someone much more...
 
If it's been used mostly in clam shell mode, it's probably really clean. With a new battery it still has a lot of life left in it... heck, it even runs bigsur. Maybe you can consider getting it replaced, and then donating it to some poor kid. With all the home learning going on needing computers there are lots of less fortunate kids out there in need of machines. Or maybe send it as is to @MultiFinder17 on this forum... I believe he's in need of machines for his school and teachers in these strange times since everyone working from home etc.

Apple's battery replacement for $199 is a fantastic deal... it replaces the whole top case including keyboard, which gives you a shiny like new machine.

If it's in nice nick other than the battery, it'd be a real waste to just recycle. It can benefit someone much more...

Fair point. The computer actually was in fantastic condition, but the issue is that the bottom case has swollen because of the battery, so it doesn't sit flat anymore. If Apple can fix that, too, when it replaces the battery, it's definitely worth $200 to me.
 
Fair point. The computer actually was in fantastic condition, but the issue is that the bottom case has swollen because of the battery, so it doesn't sit flat anymore. If Apple can fix that, too, when it replaces the battery, it's definitely worth $200 to me.
If it's the bottom cover you're referring to, you'd be surprised at how resilient that is, once the pressure is relieved, it'd go back to pretty flat (my 2013 and 2018 were both like that). Also, when dealing with apple, make sure they do it as a battery replacement and only charge the $199. There have been reports from some folks experiencing apple trying to treat it as a repair and quoting 3-400. But a lot of folks, myself include, have had no trouble with getting the $199 price (I did it to my 2013 a couple of years back). Some folks who got the 3-400 quote first also reported getting it down to $199 after speaking with someone else. also, there have been reports that the bottom cover was replaced in the process as well.

If they give you push back, refer them to https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/service. or just speak to someone else.
 
If it's the bottom cover you're referring to, you'd be surprised at how resilient that is, once the pressure is relieved, it'd go back to pretty flat (my 2013 and 2018 were both like that). Also, when dealing with apple, make sure they do it as a battery replacement and only charge the $199. There have been reports from some folks experiencing apple trying to treat it as a repair and quoting 3-400. But a lot of folks, myself include, have had no trouble with getting the $199 price (I did it to my 2013 a couple of years back). Some folks who got the 3-400 quote first also reported getting it down to $199 after speaking with someone else. also, there have been reports that the bottom cover was replaced in the process as well.

If they give you push back, refer them to https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/service. or just speak to someone else.

Thanks. I've made an appointment. Interested in seeing whether it can be repaired for only $200. For $400 I would not bother.
 
OP here - The advice to just get the battery replaced was spot on. Dropped it off at the local Apple Store Friday, it was done Saturday, and picked it up today. The store did a diagnostic when I dropped it off to make sure everything else is working, and I had just done a clean install of Catalina the night before to make sure myself. They didn't replace the bottom cover, but the laptop sits flat on the rubber feet again, and for $199, this is great. It hopefully will have at least another 2 years of good use in it.
 
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