Opened up 2012 21.5 iMac for SSD upgrade.

[Tommy c]

Hi guys,

I know this has been discussed but I’m looking at a interesting option that I can’t seem to find an answer on.

This Late 2012 21.5 IMac mother board has a spot for a Blade style SSD. From my research, it needs a Gen2 apple proprietary SSD and the screw to hold it down. I know there is a 768GB SSD I can buy.

Has anyone done this? I bought a 512SATA SSD to replace the HDD. But then I saw this unused blade SSD port. Im thinking sending the Sata SSD back and getting the other SSD or keeping it and using it as a extra HD internally.

I’m also installing the I7 3770 and 16GB ram. I was given this computer for free, so I took chance to upgrade it. I also should upgrade that watch battery lol.

Any thoughts, opinions?

 

[Juicy Box]

I bought a 512SATA SSD to replace the HDD. But then I saw this unused blade SSD port. Im thinking sending the Sata SSD back and getting the other SSD or keeping it and using it as a extra HD internally.

No reason to use the blade SSD over the 2.5", unless you wanted an internal SW RAID set up.

The Apple blade SSDs are SATA, and limited to 768GB, and have no speed advantages over the 2.5 SATA.

I am unsure if you can even find the Apple blade SSDs new anywhere, and used on eBay would probably be the best place.

You can get adapters to put a larger NVMe into the blade SSD port, but still, there would be no speed advantage. One advantage of the NVMe over the Apple SSD is probably price. I haven't checked in a while, but the Apple SSDs, even used, are very expensive.


Personally, I would just stick with the 2.5" unless you already had a blade SSD around somewhere, or if you were interested in an internal RAID set up.

 

[Tommy c]

No reason to use the blade SSD over the 2.5", unless you wanted an internal SW RAID set up.

The Apple blade SSDs are SATA, and limited to 768GB, and have no speed advantages over the 2.5 SATA.

I am unsure if you can even find the Apple blade SSDs new anywhere, and used on eBay would probably be the best place.

You can get adapters to put a larger NVMe into the blade SSD port, but still, there would be no speed advantage. One advantage of the NVMe over the Apple SSD is probably price. I haven't checked in a while, but the Apple SSDs, even used, are very expensive.


Personally, I would just stick with the 2.5" unless you already had a blade SSD around somewhere, or if you were interested in an internal RAID set up.

Hi,

Ok, that’s what I was wondering. I did find them for 123.00 for 768GB version. I’m not that computer savvy, I don’t know how to do raid setups.

I just thought it might be faster. So can this system take 32 gigs of ram? I bought the 16 but maybe off the books they can use 32?

I was just going to use this computer as a spare and then probably just sell it upgraded.

Do I have to do all the trim support stuff while I do an internal SSD upgrade?

I know I should’ve asked this question before I bought the 16 lol. You know how it is lol.

 

[DeltaMac]

This is, unfortunately, not one of the Macs that has a discovered upgrade for the RAM. 16GB is max.
(don't forget the button battery, while it is easy to replace! )

 

[CooperBox]

I tend to agree with a previous poster, forget about the blade port and install a Crucial or Samsung 2.5" SSD. And as you have the motherboard removed, don't forget to change out the battery.

 

[Juicy Box]

So can this system take 32 gigs of ram? I bought the 16 but maybe off the books they can use 32?

The 21" Late 2012 iMac has only two RAM slots, each taking up to 8GB stick. The 27" had four RAM slots, allowing 32GB of RAM.

But, 16GB is plenty for most people. Besides, just going from the HDD to a SSD is a night a day difference in performance and experience.

I am not exaggerating when I say that swapping the 8 year old HDD for a new SSD will make it feel like a totally different machine.

If RAM ends up being an issue and 16GB just isn't enough for your workflow, having the much faster SSD will help out a lot.

Do I have to do all the trim support stuff while I do an internal SSD upgrade?

Yes, it is super easy. Copy and paste a line in Terminal.

Just google how.

don't forget the button battery, while it is easy to replace!

And as you have the motherboard removed, don't forget to change out the battery.

Very good advice. I will add some:

Clean while everything is out, blow out the fan with an air compressor or a can of compressed gas electronic cleaner.

Clean the old adhesive with alcohol, and make sure you get it all. A bunch of posts here of people doing the mod that you are doing, then have their screen fall out of their iMacs, breaking as it hit their desk weeks after putting the screen back on.

Give the adhesive strips time to take hold. I recommend holding the glass onto the iMac body with some painter's tape for a few days. It won't hurt anything, easy clean up, and might save your Mac in the long run.

The painter's tape might be a good thing to try, even before adding the adhesive strips, just to make sure everything works okay before glueing it back together.

Use the SATA temp sensor adapter to keep the fans in check after the SSD swap. Otherwise, the fans will run at full speed and stay there when you turn on your Mac. There are free alternatives like SW solutions (Macsfancontrol for example) and HW solutions (shorting the temp sensor wires, adding your own temp sensor, etc.). Personally, I just like to use the adapter, but I understand the $35 adapter might be out of people's budget, especially after buying new SSD, RAM, etc. Comment is not applicable for the 21" for this year. See below.

You probably won't want to do this one since you have everything taken apart, but I would have upgraded the OS to at least High Sierra on the HDD prior to doing the SSD swap. This would install firmware that might not otherwise install once you do the swap.

Also another thing I would have done prior to the swap, I would have made sure the SSD worked using a USB/SATA adapter or enclosure. Install the OS on the SSD, and migrate any files and apps from the HDD that I wanted to keep. Booted from the SSD, make sure everything is working fine. Only then, do the swap.

I’m not that computer savvy, I don’t know how to do raid setups.

It really isn't that hard, but wouldn't recommend it unless you needed that extra speed, or if you plan on selling the machine.

Using a good Apple blade SSD and a 2.5" SSD in a RAID0, your sequential read speed would probably be around 1100MBps. Faster than any single drive set up for your iMac, including a NVMe Thunderbolt 3 drive.

 

[DeltaMac]

Just one item that I think is not accurate in the above post... The 2012 21.5-inch iMac does not need the third-party temp sensor adapter. Only the 27-inch would need that. I think it is the 2.5-inch drive - I think that does not have a temp sensor in the drive, and the smaller drive is one difference from the 27-inch, which still has the 3.5-inch drive.

 

[Tommy c]

The 21" Late 2012 iMac has only two RAM slots, each taking up to 8GB stick. The 27" had four RAM slots, allowing 32GB of RAM.

But, 16GB is plenty for most people. Besides, just going from the HDD to a SSD is a night a day difference in performance and experience.

I am not exaggerating when I say that swapping the 8 year old HDD for a new SSD will make it feel like a totally different machine.

If RAM ends up being an issue and 16GB just isn't enough for your workflow, having the much faster SSD will help out a lot.


Yes, it is super easy. Copy and paste a line in Terminal.

Just google how.



Very good advice. I will add some:

Clean while everything is out, blow out the fan with an air compressor or a can of compressed gas electronic cleaner.

Clean the old adhesive with alcohol, and make sure you get it all. A bunch of posts here of people doing the mod that you are doing, then have their screen fall out of their iMacs, breaking as it hit their desk weeks after putting the screen back on.

Give the adhesive strips time to take hold. I recommend holding the glass onto the iMac body with some painter's tape for a few days. It won't hurt anything, easy clean up, and might save your Mac in the long run.

The painter's tape might be a good thing to try, even before adding the adhesive strips, just to make sure everything works okay before glueing it back together.

Use the SATA temp sensor adapter to keep the fans in check after the SSD swap. Otherwise, the fans will run at full speed and stay there when you turn on your Mac. There are free alternatives like SW solutions (Macsfancontrol for example) and HW solutions (shorting the temp sensor wires, adding your own temp sensor, etc.). Personally, I just like to use the adapter, but I understand the $35 adapter might be out of people's budget, especially after buying new SSD, RAM, etc.

You probably won't want to do this one since you have everything taken apart, but I would have upgraded the OS to at least High Sierra on the HDD prior to doing the SSD swap. This would install firmware that might not otherwise install once you do the swap.

Also another thing I would have done prior to the swap, I would have made sure the SSD worked using a USB/SATA adapter or enclosure. Install the OS on the SSD, and migrate any files and apps from the HDD that I wanted to keep. Booted from the SSD, make sure everything is working fine. Only then, do the swap.



It really isn't that hard, but wouldn't recommend it unless you needed that extra speed, or if you plan on selling the machine.

Using a good Apple blade SSD and a 2.5" SSD in a RAID0, your sequential read speed would probably be around 1100MBps. Faster than any single drive set up for your iMac, including a NVMe Thunderbolt 3 drive.

You have been wonderful. I appreciate it! I will get that battery. Also, I put Catalina on my external SSD I was booting from. I would go further, but the. I have to do hacks? I’m not really into that.

I have Carbon Copy Cloner. When I reconnect the Samsung drive, I will clone it to the new internal SSD.

But, what you said about testing before hand is a good idea! I never thought of that.

This is a second machine. I have a new 16 M1 pro as well. I was fortunate enough to receive this iMac for free.

I’ll look into the temp sensor as well.

I’m going to make sure it all works before I tape the screen back on.

 

[Juicy Box]

Just one item that I think is not accurate in the above post... The 2012 21.5-inch iMac does not need the third-party temp sensor adapter. Only the 27-inch would need that. I think it is the 2.5-inch drive - I think that does not have a temp sensor in the drive, and the smaller drive is one difference from the 27-inch, which still has the 3.5-inch drive.

Sorry, I stand corrected.

I have a lot of experience with the Late 2012 iMacs, as I own two of them, but both are 27". I also have a few Mid 2011 iMacs.

I forgot that the 21" Late 2012 iMac switched to a 2.5" drive for the redesign, the Mid 2011 iMacs still had the 3.5" for the HDD bay.

I will edit my post.

 

[Tommy c]

Sorry, I stand corrected.

I have a lot of experience with the Late 2012 iMacs, as I own two of them, but both are 27". I also have a few Mid 2011 iMacs.

I forgot that the 21" Late 2012 iMac switched to a 2.5" drive for the redesign, the Mid 2011 iMacs still had the 3.5" for the HDD bay.

I will edit my post.

I did see that. . Appreciated!

 

[Juicy Box]

I have to do hacks? I’m not really into that.

I think you are talking about Terminal?

Terminal isn't hacking, or at least I wouldn't consider it. It is just doing something to the OS that there is no GUI for.

It is really simple, just copy and paste into terminal. It literally takes 20 seconds.

I have Carbon Copy Cloner. When I reconnect the Samsung drive, I will clone it to the new internal SSD.

The problem with using CCC or cloning in general (I love cloning by the way), is that cloning does not install the proper firmware that an OS install would.

This doesn't mean you cannot clone, but I recommend updating the OS on the HDD first, then clone afterwards. That way, you will have the proper firmware.

I’ll look into the temp sensor as well.

Don't bother, See post #7.

 

[Tommy c]

I think you are talking about Terminal?

Terminal isn't hacking, or at least I wouldn't consider it. It is just doing something to the OS that there is no GUI for.

It is really simple, just copy and paste into terminal. It literally takes 20 seconds.



The problem with using CCC or cloning in general (I love cloning by the way), is that cloning does not install the proper firmware that an OS install would.

This doesn't mean you cannot clone, but I recommend updating the OS on the HDD first, then clone afterwards. That way, you will have the proper firmware.


Don't bother, See post #7.

I see what you mean about the CCC. So, to go to Mohave or Big Sur, I need to do terminal things?

The trim I understand, but what about going past OS Catalina?

I assume as a YouTube video on this?

 

[Juicy Box]

So, to go to Mohave or Big Sur, I need to do terminal things?

The trim I understand, but what about going past OS Catalina?

I am sorry, I reread your earlier post, I thought you were talking about enabling TRIM.

I will leave this comment for people that have done it on this machine. Most people probably use the dosdude patcher for Big Sur. I have only used the patcher for El Capitan for my Mac Pro 1,1.

Anyone one else have anything for the OP on this?

I put Catalina on my external SSD I was booting from. I would go further,

I am not telling other people how to live their life, but personally, I like to stick with a stable OS, one that gives me the features I need, and lets me run the SW that I need.

Basically, I like to stick with what works, and what works using the least about of resources. Usually, the older, the better for me.

For example, I still run High Sierra on my Mid 2011 iMacs, Late 2011 MBP, and my Late 2012 iMacs. They no longer get security updates, but using a third party web browser covers a lot of the security issues. Firefox is support on older version of MacOS, long after Apple stops.

Once WoW is no longer running on High Sierra, I will most likely update my Late 2012 iMacs to Mojave for my kids to play it.

My M1 is still on Big Sur.

I have Mojave on my wife's Mid 2012 MBA.

My Mac Pro mostly runs El Capitan on it, even though it was only official supported up to Lion. I had to use the Dosdude patcher for that one. But I also keep older OS versions on the Mac Pro to access older SW and older features that were depreciated or had useful features removed, such as Disk Utility.

That said, different people need different things, so your priorities could be very different than mine.

 

[Tommy c]

I am sorry, I reread your earlier post, I thought you were talking about enabling TRIM.

I will leave this comment for people that have done it on this machine. Most people probably use the dosdude patcher for Big Sur. I have only used the patcher for El Capitan for my Mac Pro 1,1.

Anyone one else have anything for the OP on this?


I am not telling other people how to live their life, but personally, I like to stick with a stable OS, one that gives me the features I need, and lets me run the SW that I need.

Basically, I like to stick with what works, and what works using the least about of resources. Usually, the older, the better for me.

For example, I still run High Sierra on my Mid 2011 iMacs, Late 2011 MBP, and my Late 2012 iMacs. They no longer get security updates, but using a third party web browser covers a lot of the security issues. Firefox is support on older version of MacOS, long after Apple stops.

Once WoW is no longer running on High Sierra, I will most likely update my Late 2012 iMacs to Mojave for my kids to play it.

My M1 is still on Big Sur.

I have Mojave on my wife's Mid 2012 MBA.

My Mac Pro mostly runs El Capitan on it, even though it was only official supported up to Lion. I had to use the Dosdude patcher for that one. But I also keep older OS versions on the Mac Pro to access older SW and older features that were depreciated or had useful features removed, such as Disk Utility.

That said, different people need different things, so your priorities could be very different than mine.

Interesting,

I thought once they are obsolete, then they no longer will work well and eventually be unusable. I guess I was under the wrong impression.

That’s the only reason for trying to go past Catalina. That is the last official software I can run.

 

[Juicy Box]

I thought once they are obsolete, then they no longer will work well and eventually be unusable.

Totally depends on what you plan on doing with your Mac.

It also depends on the OS you are talking about. I have noticed that Apple kind of has a cycle for MacOS releases, some are optimization and stability releases, the others are feature heavy. There are some in between as well.

For example, the most optimized and stable MacOS versions since the PPC to Intel switch were Snow Leopard, Mountain Lion, El Capitan, and High Sierra, imo.

For your Late 2012 iMac, I think High Sierra or Mojave is a good choice, especially if you have any 32-bit SW to use. High Sierra is really rock solid, and runs well with HFS or APFS, and is HDD friendly if you still are using them.

I would only recommend Catalina if you had SW that no longer worked with earlier OS versions, if security was a high priority for you, or if there was a new feature added with Catalina that you needed. Catalina was the first MacOS that removed 32-bit app support.

I would only recommend going beyond Catalina if you needed to for SW compatibility reasons. I guess also security reasons as well, once Catalina is no longer getting security updates.

About the security updates, while it will not be as secure as getting Apple security updates, using a 3rd party browser like Firefox will be more secure than using Safari on MacOS versions that are no longer getting updated by Apple. I think Firefox still has El Capitan support, so it continues getting security updates long after Apple stopped.

Using a 3rd party browser can give you a good balance of security while running a more optimize OS for your older Mac.