PB G4 17" - Stripped Screws Issue

[mwhities]

I received a PowerBook G4 17" from my nephew. It powers on but, nothing comes up on the screen. I tried shining a light, didn't see anything, I tried hooking up an external and it works, just the desktop is extended, and not showing the dock or anything.

I figured the inverter was out so I ordered one. Now, the issue is, it appears as though the two little screws at the bottom of the screen (bezel) is stripped. Not sure if someone tried to work on it before or what. Needless to say, I don't really want to try to strip them more. Is there a special tool or am I going t have to do something special to get them out.

Anyone else have any experience with this? Help me out a little?

 

[eyoungren]

I received a PowerBook G4 17" from my nephew. It powers on but, nothing comes up on the screen. I tried shining a light, didn't see anything, I tried hooking up an external and it works, just the desktop is extended, and not showing the dock or anything.

I figured the inverter was out so I ordered one. Now, the issue is, it appears as though the two little screws at the bottom of the screen (bezel) is stripped. Not sure if someone tried to work on it before or what. Needless to say, I don't really want to try to strip them more. Is there a special tool or am I going t have to do something special to get them out.

Anyone else have any experience with this? Help me out a little?

Oh boy. It's not just those screws!

Inside are a bunch of small thin metal hooks. You have to prise the bezel away from the back of the LCD then slide a bit forward to disengage the hooks. But first, to even get access to the screws you'll need to remove the LCD. The LCVD cable has to be detached from the logicboard first.

The problem with all of this is that those hooks on the back of the LCD are thin and the strips are glued on and the airport cable runs around the bezel. Unless you take a good amount of time and are very patient getting it right is close to impossible. I mangled mine and I could never get it to fit back right. The fact that the screws are stripped is a bad sign. It means damage has already been done previously.

If you want my advice, just replace the entire display. You can find an LCD on eBay for a good price. Either just search for an LCD or look for your model Mac that is being sold as for repair or parts that has the LCD. When I say LCD, I mean, the entire thing, bezel, hinges, screen, back. I got mine for $80, so don't be lured by all the third party vendors that are selling "new" because they are charging $300 or more just for the LCD itself.

Lastly, for the moment, just press the F7 key when the Mac is on. That will put the Mac in single screen mode which will give you the dock and menu bar back.

 

[Goftrey]

I've had a few stripped screws in PowerBooks & MBP's in the past. They are an absolute nightmare. The only thing that gave me any luck whatsoever was to get some blu-tack, and work it into the grooves of the screwdriver. This then has the reverse effect on the stripped screw & the blu-tack essentially 'fills in' the gaps that have been worn down over time.

 

[eyoungren]

I've had a few stripped screws in PowerBooks & MBP's in the past. They are an absolute nightmare. The only thing that gave me any luck whatsoever was to get some blu-tack, and work it into the grooves of the screwdriver. This then has the reverse effect on the stripped screw & the blu-tack essentially 'fills in' the gaps that have been worn down over time.

Unless you are really good with getting the back off undamaged and can put it back on as if you never removed it, I just think that a fix like this is not worth it. The fix is a great suggestion, it's just that if the replacement of the back is not done right it's pointless. All those two screws are there for is to secure the bottom of the back lid to the bezel. They serve no other purpose. It's the hooks inside that actually tighten the back to the bezel itself.

 

[Goftrey]

Unless you are really good with getting the back off undamaged and can put it back on as if you never removed it, I just think that a fix like this is not worth it. The fix is a great suggestion, it's just that if the replacement of the back is not done right it's pointless. All those two screws are there for is to secure the bottom of the back lid to the bezel. They serve no other purpose. It's the hooks inside that actually tighten the back to the bezel itself.

I've never had any real difficulty in getting the rear lid off in the past, as long as you're not using anything other than a plastic spudger then even that little plastic seam that runs along the edge of the bezel remans practically undamaged. And if he does screw up (no pun intended ) then he take on your suggestion, and can go out & just buy a new display assembly as a whole. Right?

 

[eyoungren]

I've never had any real difficulty in getting the rear lid off in the past, as long as you're not using anything other than a plastic spudger then even that little plastic seam that runs along the edge of the bezel remans practically undamaged. And if he does screw up (no pun intended ) then he take on your suggestion, and can go out & just buy a new display assembly as a whole. Right?

LOL! Maybe I'm just clumsy. Hey wait…I am!

I didn't have a spudger, so yeah I messed it up pretty good. And like all my Mac projects it took it's piece of me. I cannot for the life of me ever work on a computer without getting a nick somewhere.

Those little hooks had me bleeding for awhile.

But yeah, if he can manage it then your suggestion should fix the rest of it.

I'm not sure though if there's any significant difference between the 15" and the 17" as I've never worked on the 15" Albooks. Just the Titaniums.

 

[mwhities]

Wow! Hey guys! haha

Lot of reading there.

I'm going to try to see if a smaller screw driver will help and "bite" enough to get them out. I was thinking of super glueing the screw driver to the screw but, as I twist, it will twist off because of the angle.

I'll definitely try fixing the current screen and see if this works (or I don't screw it up too much). What's this blue-tack? I'll need to check it out.

Thanks for the suggestions all. I'll see if I can get into it tonight.

 

[eyoungren]

Wow! Hey guys! haha

Lot of reading there.

I'm going to try to see if a smaller screw driver will help and "bite" enough to get them out. I was thinking of super glueing the screw driver to the screw but, as I twist, it will twist off because of the angle.

I'll definitely try fixing the current screen and see if this works (or I don't screw it up too much). What's this blue-tack? I'll need to check it out.

Thanks for the suggestions all. I'll see if I can get into it tonight.

Just keep in mind that you are still going to have to open up the computer. The LCVD cable can be accessed from the back of the LCD once you get the lid off, that's true.

But the other end attaches to the logicboard. So, whether you are replacing the entire screen or just the LCVD cable you are going to have to take the top case off and possibly disconnect some other parts.

It's not as simple as just popping the back off, which isn't simple anyway.

 

[kbfr08]

I've had a few stripped screws in PowerBooks & MBP's in the past. They are an absolute nightmare. The only thing that gave me any luck whatsoever was to get some blu-tack, and work it into the grooves of the screwdriver. This then has the reverse effect on the stripped screw & the blu-tack essentially 'fills in' the gaps that have been worn down over time.

Blu tac or some sort of adhesive usually works for me. For more extreme cases, I usually solder a disposable screwdriver (the ones that get included with iphone parts) to the stripped screw and twist it out. Obviously, I wouldn't recommend doing that unless it's a last resort.

For stripped philips screws, a torx bit and a lot of pressure usually get it going.

 

[mwhities]

Just keep in mind that you are still going to have to open up the computer. The LCVD cable can be accessed from the back of the LCD once you get the lid off, that's true.

But the other end attaches to the logicboard. So, whether you are replacing the entire screen or just the LCVD cable you are going to have to take the top case off and possibly disconnect some other parts.

It's not as simple as just popping the back off, which isn't simple anyway.

Don't tell me that! I really don't (no uncomfortable with it, just don't want to) crack all of it open. I'll read up on it (aka ifixit) and see what it all I'll need to do.

Blu tac or some sort of adhesive usually works for me. For more extreme cases, I usually solder a disposable screwdriver (the ones that get included with iphone parts) to the stripped screw and twist it out. Obviously, I wouldn't recommend doing that unless it's a last resort.

For stripped philips screws, a torx bit and a lot of pressure usually get it going.

Sounds like I'll need to invest in this blue-tack.

One thing that sucks about applying pressure for myself, I only have one-arm and it's hard to hold the system, unscrew (the stripped blots), and apply pressure.

I'll figure it out though, hopefully I won't get sliced and diced and not kill it more than it is already.

EDIT: I'm going to try to fix it Sunday. Busy the rest of the week.

Also thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

 

[eyoungren]

Don't tell me that! I really don't (no uncomfortable with it, just don't want to) crack all of it open. I'll read up on it (aka ifixit) and see what it all I'll need to do.

Sorry!

It is what it is though. One end of the LCVD cable is attached to the logicboard. What can I say?

 

[mwhities]

Sorry!

It is what it is though. One end of the LCVD cable is attached to the logicboard. What can I say?

haha No worries. I promised my 6yo that I'd get it going for him. So I have to now.