Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.

aliot

macrumors member
Original poster
Jun 19, 2008
53
0
Just get a rr4310 and connected to my mac pro 06, but the ipass cable just right enough to reach the connector on my raidcard, if the ipass is half a cm shorter I have to buy a longer card.
Did any raidcard user find their ipass cable is not long enough to connect the raidcard?

I think this cable could help,but I don't think it worth this price.:(
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/MaxUpgrades/SZDCMSASR2MS/
 
Just get a rr4310 and connected to my mac pro 06, but the ipass cable just right enough to reach the connector on my raidcard, if the ipass is half a cm shorter I have to buy a longer card.
Did any raidcard user find their ipass cable is not long enough to connect the raidcard?

I think this cable could help,but I don't think it worth this price.:(
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/MaxUpgrades/SZDCMSASR2MS/

Nop... I think it's fine!
Pull out the optical drives and unravel/re-route the cables, it'll be slightly longer after.

BTW, you do know that IF you choose to use your RAIDcard as the boot drive, it'll take longer to physically boot?
This is due to the card's initialising process at powerup, it'll add 20~30secs to the normal boot time.
 
Just get a rr4310 and connected to my mac pro 06, but the ipass cable just right enough to reach the connector on my raidcard, if the ipass is half a cm shorter I have to buy a longer card.
Did any raidcard user find their ipass cable is not long enough to connect the raidcard?

I think this cable could help,but I don't think it worth this price.:(
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/MaxUpgrades/SZDCMSASR2MS/
Yes they can be, but it depends on the RAID card (shorter cards).

Longer cables exist (SFF-8087 - SFF-8482 x4 backplane cable*), and are cheaper than the extension you linked. But try to re-route the cable, as UltraNEO suggested.
Nop... I think it's fine!
Pull out the optical drives and unravel/re-route the cables, it'll be slightly longer after.
This has worked for multiple cards, according to some contacts I've made on the forum. :)

Way cheaper than buying a new cable.

*It would require modification to the power section in some form. Either cut the power portion from the OEM cable, and wire it up to the wiring on the new cable, or use backplane extensions for the mods. Either way, some hacking is needed (solder + heat shrink tubing).

BTW, you do know that IF you choose to use your RAIDcard as the boot drive, it'll take longer to physically boot?
This is due to the card's initialising process at powerup, it'll add 20~30secs to the normal boot time.
I've seen up to 1.5min. Seriously. But most are in the 25 - 45 sec range. :)

It won't matter if the system isn't turned off, otherwise, it's to be expected. Firmware (system) loads, then the RAID card (injects the array as a boot drive), then re run the board's firmware, THEN it begins to boot. :) Works though. :D

Also, OP, you should note that with a hardware RAID card, it won't sleep, as that's now in the control of the card, not the OS. If you let it attempt to sleep, and it's NOT setup as the boot disk, it will dump the array. So it's no longer there when you resume. Areca's do this, and Highpoint's RR43xx would as well, as Areca designed and manufactures it for Highpoint.
 
This has worked for multiple cards, according to some contacts I've made on the forum. :)

Way cheaper than buying a new cable.

*It would require modification to the power section in some form. Either cut the power portion from the OEM cable, and wire it up to the wiring on the new cable, or use backplane extensions for the mods. Either way, some hacking is needed (solder + heat shrink tubing).


I've seen up to 1.5min. Seriously. But most are in the 25 - 45 sec range. :)

It won't matter if the system isn't turned off, otherwise, it's to be expected. Firmware (system) loads, then the RAID card (injects the array as a boot drive), then re run the board's firmware, THEN it begins to boot. :) Works though. :D

Also, OP, you should note that with a hardware RAID card, it won't sleep, as that's now in the control of the card, not the OS. If you let it attempt to sleep, and it's NOT setup as the boot disk, it will dump the array. So it's no longer there when you resume. Areca's do this, and Highpoint's RR43xx would as well, as Areca designed and manufactures it for Highpoint.

I remember when I installed that CalDigit card, for some bizarre reason Apple decided to intertwine the iPass cable with the logicboard's power and hardware monitor cables:eek:

_MG_2333-20090904-053551.jpg


I ended up unplugging everything around there, removing the optical drive and plate then re-routing the cable.. but then I discovered it's physically twisted. To untwist the thing, dismount the first hard-drive header and do what you need, then reattach the header but don't do what I did - drop the screw!! Well, as you can see from the photo, the iPass cable is completely freed! Yay!!
 
I remember when I installed that CalDigit card, for some bizarre reason Apple decided to intertwine the iPass cable with the logicboard's power and hardware monitor cables:eek:
It was definitely a blessing in disuise. ;) You could have ended being required to get & mod out a longer cable. :)


I ended up unplugging everything around there, removing the optical drive and plate then re-routing the cable.. but then I discovered it's physically twisted. To untwist the thing, dismount the first hard-drive header and do what you need, then reattach the header but don't do what I did - drop the screw!! Well, as you can see from the photo, the iPass cable is completely freed! Yay!!
:cool: Looks nice and clean. :D

BTW, that empty SFF-8087 on the logic board just looks all alone. That's just wrong man! :eek: :p

And dump that lousy CalDigit already. Then have a ritual bon fire. :p
 
I remember when I installed that CalDigit card, for some bizarre reason Apple decided to intertwine the iPass cable with the logicboard's power and hardware monitor cables:eek:

_MG_2333-20090904-053551.jpg


I ended up unplugging everything around there, removing the optical drive and plate then re-routing the cable.. but then I discovered it's physically twisted. To untwist the thing, dismount the first hard-drive header and do what you need, then reattach the header but don't do what I did - drop the screw!! Well, as you can see from the photo, the iPass cable is completely freed! Yay!!

wow,caldigit's looks way longer than my rr4310.
Nanofrog's idea really helpful. SFF-8087 - SFF-8482 x4 backplane cable should work on my mac pro 06'.
well,time to abandon the original ipass.:D

PS:how can I feed power to those 4pins? Can I use video card spliter like 2X4pin to 6pin then 2X6pin to 8pin?
 
wow,caldigit's looks way longer than my rr4310.
Nanofrog's idea really helpful. SFF-8087 - SFF-8482 x4 backplane cable should work on my mac pro 06'.
well,time to abandon the original ipass.:D

Try re-running the iPass (SFF-8087 - 4x SFF-8482 backplane) that's in the system. Other members have successfully run that particular card (RR4321), and did NOT have to replace the original. ;) Seriously. :)

PS:how can I feed power to those 4pins? Can I use video card spliter like 2X4pin to 6pin then 2X6pin to 8pin?
What 4 pins are you referring to? The Molex power end on the 3rd party backplane connector?

If that's the case, then no. What you do, is trace out the power section of the original iPass cable. Then you cut it loose near the backplane connectors (SFF-8482 ends), and cut the Molex ends off the new cable. Next is to wire them together, solder, and heatshrink the joints.

The other way, is to use Backplane extensions, and mod those for power, ideally with a Molex end, and just plug it in the new backplane cable. The old iPass cable would have to remain in the system (provides power), and you only disconnect the SFF-8087 end. The power connection to the logic board would remain.

You can figure out a few variants, but as the power section is proprietary (good one Apple :rolleyes:), some modification is required. Where/how is up to you.

But you shouldn't need to do any of it by re-routing the original iPass cable. :D
 
BTW, that empty SFF-8087 on the logic board just looks all alone. That's just wrong man! :eek: :p

And dump that lousy CalDigit already. Then have a ritual bon fire. :p

Oh... I didn't take the photo yesterday/today :p I don't rip apart my system for others, just reuse old photos. Currently there's a four way breakout cable inserted in the SFF-8087, connecting the Blu-Ray and all the other drives I've stuffed in the spare optical bay and both of those ODD_SATA's are empty!! - the PC have since stolen the blue connector! hehe

Remember all those discussions we had previous regarding better RAIDcards and VTrak etc? Well... Those are thoughts leading to an replacement - i'm still thinking!! :)

Actually, that "lousy CalDigit" card has been behaving itself, it's definitely more reliable than my old Apple RAID which complained constantly about battery!! - As for the CalDigit, I do have the battery installed and there's an external UPS; I think six minutes should more than enough time to safely shut down the system, safely.
 
Oh... I didn't take the photo yesterday/today :p I don't rip apart my system for others, just reuse old photos.
:cool:

Remember all those discussions we had previous regarding better RAIDcards and VTrak etc? Well... Those are thoughts leading to an replacement - i'm still thinking!! :)
I do, and they were extensive. ;) But as you haven't mentioned it lately, I figured you were still in the decision process. None of it is what an individual would consider inexpensive, but the solution I offered is at least far less expensive than the V-Trak. :D By about half for a complete system, IIRC. ;)

Let me know what you've decided, or send a PM if you wish. :) It's detailed, and it's worth flogging very thoroughly before making any purchase, as returns on such items is not only a PITA, it's expensive (shipping & restocking fees :().

Actually, that "lousy CalDigit" card has been behaving itself, it's definitely more reliable than my old Apple RAID which complained constantly about battery!! - As for the CalDigit, I do have the battery installed and there's an external UPS; I think six minutes should more than enough time to safely shut down the system, safely.
NOOOOO. :p

I'm glad it's behaving, but there's been too many issues with CalDigit's gear with lack of support, problems,... When they first released your card, it was a disaster of biblical proportions (for proper hardware RAID anyway). ;) That, and the fact they tied it to the HDElement, pushed me to the point I won't ever touch their gear for a good while, assuming they even get their act together. What amazed me, is they claimed to be an OEM design house. :eek: :p What a joke! :mad: They design nothing, manufacture nothing. :rolleyes: // anyway, end of rant. :p
 
NOOOOO. :p

I'm glad it's behaving, but there's been too many issues with CalDigit's gear with lack of support, problems,... When they first released your card, it was a disaster of biblical proportions (for proper hardware RAID anyway). ;) That, and the fact they tied it to the HDElement, pushed me to the point I won't ever touch their gear for a good while, assuming they even get their act together. What amazed me, is they claimed to be an OEM design house. :eek: :p What a joke! :mad: They design nothing, manufacture nothing. :rolleyes: // anyway, end of rant. :p

They claim that? :eek:

IMG_0232-20090904-171118.jpg

This is how it looks today... Yes, I'm still using MO disc, they're slow but completely secure! From the stand point off - how many Mac users actually have one?
Those velociraptor are actually mounted to a blank fibreglass PCI-E card that sits in slot 4 (below the GFX card) - who says there's not enough room for more drives?
 
They claim that? :eek:
Yep. Over the phone, and it was multiple people, not just the sales manager. IIRC, I don't recall the engineer I spoke with mentioning that, but it's possible.

This is how it looks today... Yes, I'm still using MO disc, they're slow but completely secure! From the stand point off - how many Mac users actually have one?
Those velociraptor are actually mounted to a blank fibreglass PCI-E card that sits in slot 4 (below the GFX card) - who says there's not enough room for more drives?
Nice! :) Very clean routing. :D

As per the VR mounting, that's a nice way to go, but unfortunately, not possible for most I think. I don't recall many having blank FR4 cut to the PCIe slot config lying around (regardless of x & y dimensions). :p

How did you aquire it?
 
Yep. Over the phone, and it was multiple people, not just the sales manager. IIRC, I don't recall the engineer I spoke with mentioning that, but it's possible.

Ah.. well, I've never dealt with them directly. I have a nice reseller whom is fairly helpful, to and extent.

Nice! :) Very clean routing. :D

As per the VR mounting, that's a nice way to go, but unfortunately, not possible for most I think. I don't recall many having blank FR4 cut to the PCIe slot config lying around (regardless of x & y dimensions). :p

How did you aquire it?

Most electronic suppler with the exception of farnell and radio-shack, should have the parts instock. It's a Photosensitive PCI-E PCB normally used for prototyping and projects but I've etched away the conductive copper and added a backplate, a few rubber feet for support and mounted it. There space for three drives using WD supplied or four units if you make some customs.

WD default heatsink doesn't help with air flow, so grab a dremel and start cutting away at the fins.. hehe.. cheaper and easer than messing about with customs.
 
IMG_0111.jpg

This is the situation of mine,looks good,but actually not.The raidcard is about 1/4 cm blended to the hard drive side.It works well right now,but I don't know how long it can last....I've exchange the bay1 and bay2 connector then I can get the ipass to my card.You can see how short is rr4310,compare with the caldigit's.
 
This is the situation of mine,looks good,but actually not.The raidcard is about 1/4 cm blended to the hard drive side.It works well right now,but I don't know how long it can last....I've exchange the bay1 and bay2 connector then I can get the ipass to my card.You can see how short is rr4310,compare with the caldigit's.

Is the shortness of the cable the cause of the card being slightly bent?
 
Technically the card will be fine, as new PCB's are fibreglass based, they're very strong!! And 2.5mm isn't much.
Did you try swapping the headers so it's 2, 3, 1, 4?

No.The 8pin power cable on bay1 connector isn't long enough,and there is one more cable gets out form bay4 connect which is connected with logic board,I don't know what is it,but I think swap the order again just a no-go.
 
Most electronic suppler with the exception of farnell and radio-shack, should have the parts instock. It's a Photosensitive PCI-E PCB normally used for prototyping and projects but I've etched away the conductive copper and added a backplate, a few rubber feet for support and mounted it. There space for three drives using WD supplied or four units if you make some customs.
I know it's possible to DIY one, I was thinking you may have found something ready made, or easily done by anyone at home.

FR4 isn't the easiest stuff to cut, let alone acurately. :( Now you've got me thinking about a CNC router table again... :D :p

WD default heatsink doesn't help with air flow, so grab a dremel and start cutting away at the fins.. hehe.. cheaper and easer than messing about with customs.
They aren't even needed. ;) I'd pull the drive, and place it on the PCB directly (maybe use a spacer on the bottom at most). You should be able to squeeze in a couple more that way. :D

This is the situation of mine,looks good,but actually not.The raidcard is about 1/4 cm blended to the hard drive side.It works well right now,but I don't know how long it can last....I've exchange the bay1 and bay2 connector then I can get the ipass to my card.You can see how short is rr4310,compare with the caldigit's.
That's rather normal these days with thinner boards. As UltraNEO stated, FR4 is some tough stuff.

The physical order change won't hurt anything, so long as you remember which drive is which (if a failure occurs).

It's not that the cable lengths are really different, but the card length. The CalDigit is a longer card than the RR4321 you have.
 
No.The 8pin power cable on bay1 connector isn't long enough,and there is one more cable gets out form bay4 connect which is connected with logic board,I don't know what is it,but I think swap the order again just a no-go.

Hmm... What's wrong with leaving it how it is?
 
Agree,before a better solution comes out.
The only thing you could do, is get a different RAID card. No other "solution" exists.

I understand your concern. Warping is also rather common on thinner FR4 material, but so long as there isn't a lot of thermal cycling, you won't have an issue.
 
The only thing you could do, is get a different RAID card. No other "solution" exists.

I understand your concern. Warping is also rather common on thinner FR4 material, but so long as there isn't a lot of thermal cycling, you won't have an issue.

alternatively, get your wallet out and buy the slightly overpriced extension cable. Which you choose is up to you:) However, if it was me, I'll just leave it. It works and the fibreglass board can take the strain without any worries, if anything, the heat in your MP will help take out the strain, win, win!!
 
alternatively, get your wallet out and buy the slightly overpriced extension cable. Which you choose is up to you:) However, if it was me, I'll just leave it. It works and the fiberglass board can take the strain without any worries, if anything, the heat in your MP will help take out the strain, win, win!!
There's enough slack in the OEM iPass cable, an extension isn't needed.

And the ide of "heat removing the strain" is actually false. :eek: The board is warped, and that's effectively "pre-loading". Apply enough heat, and the board flexes (thermal cycling), and that causes broken solder joints. It's even more of a problem with lead free solder (I really don't like that crap).


Thermal cycling can be a problem on any board, but for one that's pre loaded, it's more of an issue, PROVIDED the temp differentials are high enough. ;) If the internal cooling is adequate, and the heatsink used on the IOP (card's processor) is adequate, it won't really be an issue (also assuming other manufacturing areas were correct, such as good solder joints to begin with).

So far, I've not had, or heard of, any issues with Areca's products, who actually made the card. That said, their own products (Areca labeled), aren't warped either AFAIK. :D
 
There's enough slack in the OEM iPass cable, an extension isn't needed.

And the ide of "heat removing the strain" is actually false. :eek: The board is warped, and that's effectively "pre-loading". Apply enough heat, and the board flexes (thermal cycling), and that causes broken solder joints. It's even more of a problem with lead free solder (I really don't like that crap).


Thermal cycling can be a problem on any board, but for one that's pre loaded, it's more of an issue, PROVIDED the temp differentials are high enough. ;) If the internal cooling is adequate, and the heatsink used on the IOP (card's processor) is adequate, it won't really be an issue (also assuming other manufacturing areas were correct, such as good solder joints to begin with).

So far, I've not had, or heard of, any issues with Areca's products, who actually made the card. That said, their own products (Areca labeled), aren't warped either AFAIK. :D

I'm sure IF the board fails, the OP can send it back and claim on the warranty - Just won't tell them it's cause from warping ;)
To be honest, I don't think the MP get's that hot!!
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.