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jave808

macrumors member
Original poster
Apr 13, 2023
41
0
Newcastle NSW Australia
Hi

Recently I decided to have a go at installing Windows 10 on my old MacBook Pro Late 2011 laptop. It actually had Win10 installed when I bought it.

I had a go at installing Mac OS versions and managed to get up to Sierra. I tried to update to High Sierra but never managed to do so. I wish there was an easier method of installing Mac OS versions without going through installation of this, then that but Apple seem to want to make it hard.

Anyhow, I have Windows 10 running now. But I'm having trouble finding some drivers for the Apple hardware.

I found drivers for the Bluetooth hardware, but am still looking for drivers for the camera and for sound.

I came across something called "Bootcamp". I'm not exactly sure what it is but I think it's for people that run Windows on their Macs and need drivers. Is this correct?

Also, how do I get a "right-click" recognized on the trackpad? I can only do a left-click. When I go into the Windows Settings I can change the click to be either "left" or "right". And if I change to "right" the trackpad then does a right-click when tapped - and ONLY that. I eventually got the setting back to "left".
 
Bootcamp is Apple's dual boot software solution for Windows and it includes all of the relevant drivers for your laptop. It's part of the standard macOS install package on Intel-based Macs. If you have a macOS partition up and running on the laptop (preferably going through the necessary hoops to install High Sierra so you have the most recent version of the drivers) you'll need to use the Bootcamp app within the Applications -> Utilities folder to set up your Windows partition. This may involve erasing the current Windows 10 install and re-installing via BootCamp. If you don't have macOS currently installed you will need to install it first.

Having those drivers installed via Bootcamp will solve the majority of your issues including recognizing right clicks. You should have the option to remove the macOS partition when you're done.
 
The 2012 MacBook Pros were the first MBPs with support for Windows 10 through Boot Camp.

However, IIRC, people have been able to install Win7/Win8 through Boot Camp on older machines and then upgrade to Windows 10, using Boot Camp's Windows 7/8 drivers in "legacy mode."

I haven't looked at this particular issue in a long time, so I suggest doing some additional research.
 
If you can install windows 10 straight up without the use of previous windows version, then I recommend that route to reduce clutter in the install of previous versions. Another way is to use bootcamp and use the install from microsofts latest windows 10 online installer, then after all the drivers installed, add your Windows ID to claim you own the program. This in turn will already install most if not all the latest upgrades. Also make sure you have a separate partition just for windows and plenty of disc space before even starting the process.

 
For sound, I got a external bluetooth speakers. or you can get a external headphones. check to see you sound setup drivers is installed via device manager.
 
Well, I managed to get most of my Mac working with Win10, but have given up on sound.

I installed drivers for sound, but still no go. I then found a link stating that if you changed the partition table of the disk from GPT to MBR, the sound would work. So I used EaseUS Partition Master Pro to initiate that change. In doing so it borked my system!!! So I've given up and will revert back to Mac OS. (See other thread)
 
Hello dears,

When I plug a monitor via the Thunderbolt port with a Mini Display Port to HDMI converter, Windows 10 doesn't recognize my screen. Does that happen to anyone else?.

For the problem of the sound this hack solve me the problem----->
.
 
Thank you very much but I did it but didn't work for me. I think Windows 10 is not capable of sending video through the thunderbolt 2 port of the mac.
 
I had a go at installing Mac OS versions and managed to get up to Sierra. I tried to update to High Sierra but never managed to do so. I wish there was an easier method of installing Mac OS versions without going through installation of this, then that but Apple seem to want to make it hard.
If you have access to another working Mac, or you've got Sierra running on yours, download @dosdude1 Catalina Patcher and use it to create a USB installer. I'd be willing to bet it will clean install without a hitch. But it must be a clean install. Once disk utility is available, erase disk to macos extended journaled, title it how you want, and it will do the rest.
Gotta be worth a shot!
 
On macs before 2012, windows 10 must be installed in legacy bios mode for the sound to work.

"When you install it in EFI mode, you will have problems with sound - this can't be solved with drivers, as older (pre-2012) Macbook UEFI will simply not expose the sound card interface to Windows.
The easiest way to get it to work is to REINSTALL Win 10 in Legacy/BIOS/Hybrid MBR mode"
 
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[deleted, as what I did now isn't working anymore...]

If you were trying Windows 11 because of the looming end-of-support for Windows 10, be advised that Microsoft quietly announced free/inexpensive options for individuals to receive Windows 10 security updates for an additional year until October 2026. It's cool to try Win 11 on the older hardware, but Win 10 remains a better fit.

The Extended Security Update (ESU) program for individuals will provide security updates through October 2026 under any of the following conditions:
  • Use Windows Backup to sync personal settings to the cloud. This appears to require at least a free OneDrive account.
  • Pay $30 USD (local pricing may vary).
  • Redeem 1,000 Microsoft Rewards points.
For more info, scroll down to the “Windows 10 Extended Security Updates: A bridge to your Windows 11 experience” section of Microsoft's recent article about transitioning to Windows 11.
 
Thanks, the end-of-support for Windows 10 was my concern. I heard about the Extended Security Update program Microsoft announced, but figured one year of Win 10 updates vs being on the current Win 11 left something to be desired.

Back to what I did: I managed to get Windows 11 on my 2011 MacBook Pro, and like others had issues with audio/sound but managed to get that to work too. In the end I re-installed Win 11 too many times and it must have gotten so hot (my city is super hot now) that I suppose the Wifi and Bluetooth parts were fried and don't work anymore. The sound driver works after reinstalling Opencore, but there is not sound in Windows 11. However, if I boot back into macOS Monterey (running Opencore Legacy Patcher), the sound works there (and I can confirm wifi + bluetooth are both dead on my machine even in Monterey). I suppose the dead wifi + bluetooth somehow affects the sound chip in Win 11. I have ordered a USB wifi module to use for Win 11 and that will have to do in my case.

*Edit* -- right after I posted this, I turned on that computer, first in Monterey to confirm the bluetooth and wifi are dead, then I rebooted to Win 11, and somehow the wifi is working again in Win 11 (though still no bluetooth and sound). I have no explanation for this pleasant but bizarre situation.

Anyways, for anyone who wants to give it a go, here's what I did to get Windows 11 on the 2011 MacBook Pro (8,1):

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Note that in my case, the trackpad is pretty awful in Win 11 in the end (I can't figure out how to do a right click), so you have to accept that and just use a USB mouse. I would suggest NOT using BootCamp drivers to fix the trackpad, as it made Win 11 unstable for me.

Here's what you'll need and how I did it, and I'll list the videos at the end that I followed to pull this off, which was to go through:
a. High Sierra
b. Opencore Legacy Patcher (OCLP) + Monterey
c. Windows 11
d. then back to OCLP one last time to fix the audio for Win 11

----------------------------------------

Need:

a) another computer running Windows 10/11 already (to run Rufus), though I suppose if you have Win 10 on the current Mac already, then you can do the Rufus step first, nuke the Win 10 install and you won't need a separate computer with Win 10? I'll re-order my steps to account for this possibility.

b) need multiple USB drives at least 16+ GB for various installers. I supposed you could get away with using only one such USB drive and deleting and reusing it each time for the next bootable USB, but then if you mess up and have to start over, it's a huge pain to redo it all. I guess having 3 such USBs will do (one for High Sierra, one for Monterey, one for Windows 11)

c) ethernet cable to plug into your router for wired internet access

d) DO NOT use Apple BootCamp drivers at any point. I tried using BootCamp to fix the audio problem and trackpad under Win 11 at the end, and it made Win 11 unstable for me and it went into infinite reboot, forcing me to reinstall Win 11

----------------------------------------

Steps:
1) using a Windows 10 computer, I downloaded the latest Windows 11 ISO from Microsoft. Then I used Rufus (which doesn't run on Mac) to create a GPT version of the Win 11 installation USB and checked all boxes to bypass Win 11 install checks

2) Have the highest macOS it would natively support, macOS 10.13 High Sierra on the Mac (I had to put it back since I had deleted it and put on Fedora which I never used). See videos below if you need to do this step, or skip it if you already have High Sierra.

3) then I used Opencore Legacy Patcher (OCLP), specifically version 0.4.9 to install macOS 12 Monterey (I had problems with using version 0.4.11 to install Monterey)

For details of #3, see the Mr. Macintosh video for it below, but note that I used OCLP v0.4.9, which worked for me for this specific 2011 MacBook Pro model when I first tried OCLP in back in 2022.


----------------------------------------

For #4-5 below, I followed a video called "Windows 11 Install On 2011 Macbook Pro" (see below)

4) back under the 2011 MacBook Pro and macOS Monterey, I used Disk Utility and created a partition of my SSD, making format "MS-DOS (FAT)". You may have to format this partition again to MS-DOS (FAT), and this is where I installed Windows 11 on later.

Note: you absolutely need to know which partition you created to install Windows 11 on. While in Disk Utility, on the left side, select the partition you created to do so, and then near the bottom right corner of the window, you'll see it say:

Device: (and then something like Disk0s*, where the * is the number that goes with it)

In my case, my partition is Disk0s3 but yours may be different. Knowing how many GB you allocated to this partition also helps to identify it. I would say know both pieces of info, which you'll need in #5c below.


5a) Then I plugged in the Win 11 installer USB from #1, reboot and held down the Option key, go to the yellow EFI Boot (which is the USB Win 11 installer).

5b) During Windows 11 installation, on the third menu where it says, "Select setup option," I clicked on the bottom left corner where it says "Previous Version of Setup," which then got me the menus that match the video I followed for this part.

5c) I had to reformat the partition I created in step #4. Here's where you'll need the info I mentioned earlier to identify which partition to choose. I choose to Format it (instead of deleting it like the video I followed did) and then it would be allowed to installed Win 11.

5d) I plugged in my ethernet cable to my router for wired internet when prompted by the Win 11 install to updates. (Later I tried skipping this step to fix the audio in Win 11, and it didn't work, so I would go with the ethernet update)

Eventually Windows 11 finishes installing, and then I used Windows Update (still connected via ethernet) to download updates, and rebooted the computer multiple times for each update.

Using the drivers listed on the video's description, and Device Manager under Win 11, I got the Camera working.

----------------------------------------

6) the last thing that won't work in Win 11, no matter what you try, is the audio. The guy in the video I used for steps #4-5 says he got the audio working, but his driver didn't work for me. I found other places say that you can fix the audio by changing DSDT something or other and it looked super complicated and tricky to pull off.

Luckily I found another video that shows that to fix the audio, you simply reboot back into macOS Monterey, and reinstall Opencore onto your built-in SSD (which I was reluctant to do at first but did in the end), then reboot back into Windows 11, and sound works now! I can dual boot Windows 11 (the whole point of this exercise) and also macOS Monterey.


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For step #2, the videos I referenced for putting High Sierra back on the 2011 MacBook Pro

How to Install a Fresh macOS on a 2011 MacBook Pro - new SSD.mp4

How to download and create a macOS High Sierra bootable USB using Mist.mp4


For step #3, the Mr. Macintosh video I followed for installing Monterey using OCLP
macOS Monterey on Unsupported Macs [2008-2015] OpenCore Legacy Patcher!!!


For steps #4-5, the video I followed for installing Windows 11
Windows 11 Install On 2011 Macbook Pro


For step #6, the video I followed for fixing audio in Win 11 by using OCLP to reinstall OpenCore:
Fix No Audio Output Device is Installed on Windows 10 Bootcamp
 
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