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uller6

macrumors 65816
May 14, 2010
1,040
1,680
I appreciate your quick reply and insight, but I'd like to note that the 'pink border' issue was not present when the iMac was in its original configuration. This leads me to believe that the problem is not due to the screen's age or a general degradation but may be related to the R1811 card or how it interfaces with the panel in this DIY setup. Has anyone managed to mitigate this issue in a similar project?
I also have a 5k screen (from an LG ultra fine 5k with dead control board) that was not pink before it died. Then, when I rebuilt it with the aftermarket board, the edges are pink. Interestingly enough, I have a second LG 5k screen that I swapped out for the first one. In either case, the LG control electronics have no pink border, while the same screen powered by aftermarket electronics control board has a pink boarder.

I can't explain why, but the pink boarder is somehow caused by an issue with the control electronics and not the screen hardware itself. And, unfortunately, I don't have a solution to solve the pink issue :(
 
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Izzie24

macrumors newbie
Feb 24, 2024
9
4
Thanks, I sent an email to StoneTaskin where I purchased the R1811. I keep this topic updated how this ends.
If they say it's the panel, I can switch with my other iMac from late 2015. But I want to try one first, then the other. But that is also an option I have.
Thanks for your reply's. 😊

//edit; i see my other late 2015 iMac (original) has the same _pink problem_, i never see it before. I Google it now, it's more common problem.
 
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Patrick874

macrumors newbie
Feb 27, 2024
8
2
I appreciate your quick reply and insight, but I'd like to note that the 'pink border' issue was not present when the iMac was in its original configuration. This leads me to believe that the problem is not due to the screen's age or a general degradation but may be related to the R1811 card or how it interfaces with the panel in this DIY setup. Has anyone managed to mitigate this issue in a similar project?
I read in another post that it is a known LG bug. As far as I know, Apple had an exchange program.
 
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nexx27

macrumors member
Jul 8, 2012
84
82
My "latest Macs" are a heavily upgraded 2009 Mac Pro (6c CPU, M.2 SSD, USB 3, RX580...) and more recently a 12c 2013 Mac Pro with an eGPU (Vega 56) - both machines with more than enough CPU power, GPU power and RAM for my needs, but I long aspired to upgrade to a nice 5k monitor to replace my aging 30" WQHD monitor which only took dual-link DVI inputs (requiring clunky and expensive adapter on the MP tube).

The LG 5k Ultrafine monitors are relatively pricey and limited to TB3 (and USB-C) inputs so, no really an option for my equipment.

Dell, HP and Philips all used to offer 5k displays which took two DP 1.2 inputs to run at 5k, but they were all quickly discontinued and don't have the best reliability reputation (does the latter explain the former?).

The last option was Iiyama's 5k which appeared to share the same LG Display panel as the iMac and LG monitors and supported 5k with a single DP1.4 input, but with electronics limiting color to 6 bit+FRC and with poor color accuracy reviews. It has recently been EOL'd.

I was about to give up when I started reading reports on DIY 5k monitors made from spare parts sourced from the Internet. I was intrigued and gave it a go. I should warn you that this is a risky enterprise and that you need a bit a faith (you need to source parts from questionable sources without much if any warranty). It also won't be a dirt cheap option - likely much cheaper than a new LG monitor, but still not dirt cheap.

Here is what you need as a minimum:
  1. A 5k panel - there are only two commonly available such panels: the LG Display LM270QQ1 (the one used in 5k iMac) and LM270QQ2 (used in LG Ultrafines). Essentially the same panel in a slightly different delivery - the iMac version coming glued to a shiny glass front the exact same shape as the iMac screen, the other being a plain rectangular panel (semi-matt from the look of the photos).
  2. A 5k driving board - again there seems to be essentially two versions of such board: the R9A18 board which has 2 HDMI 2.0 and 2 DP 1.2 inputs (requiring two DP 1.2 cables to run at 5k/60Hz), and the more expensive R1811 board which as 2 HDMI 2.0, 2 DP 1.4 (one being enough for 5k/60Hz) and 1 USB-C input (with 65W PD). Both boards come with all the necessary panel cables and power supply, but you will have to specify which panel to match.
Both the panel and the board are typically found on aliexpress and eBay. I sourced my panel (an iMac LM270QQ1) from a local eBay reseller to avoid taxes and customs charges, but had to order the board from aliexpress as I specifically wanted the newer and less common R1811 allowing the use of a single DP1.4.

Connecting the two isn't difficult (you have to be careful with those flat cables and thin connectors) and is enough to have a working 5K monitor but, without a proper enclosure, the screen isn't terribly rigid and the whole setup a mess with exposed electronics.

From there you have plenty of options I guess, depending on you DIY skills, but I elected to go for a nice and tidy look, and an option not requiring too much messing around with tools. Having bought an iMac panel, the easiest is to purchase an empty 27" iMac housing - the A1419 version for which the LM270QQ1 is designed to be the "drop-in" replacement screen. The housing is large enough to host the driver board (and even the power adapter if you want). You will have to make sure the display and power cables are correctly connected and routed to the outside (most likely through the memory access panel) before you attach the screen with those pesky sticky strips.

Sourcing a new 27" iMac housing spare part is probably not going to be easy, or affordable, but used parts can often be found on eBay - in various conditions but much cheaper. Note that most often than not the housing will come without a stand, which means another challenge to address.

I wanted to be able to control height and tilt of the monitor anyway, so I pursued the VESA mount option. As you may know, the A1419 does not offer any official solution to install a VESA mount if that option was not selected at purchase time, but it turns out that you can easily remove the original stand hinge mechanism (at least when you have an empty housing), use a A1312 stand hinge mechanism instead and then install the Apple VESA kit which was designed for the older 24"and 27" iMacs and Thunderbolt displays (there are third-party options).

So, in addition to the above panel and board, here is what I needed to get a 5k monitor looking like a VESA-mounted iMac:
  1. An A1419 iMac empty housing
  2. An A1312 hinge mechanism
  3. An Apple VESA Mount adapter
I am quite glad with the end result which looks much better than I feared (but cost a bit more than I hoped as well). I will post pictures once I clean up my desk ;-)

5K/60Hz/10 bit works without any problem on a single DP 1.4 cable with the RX580 or Vega 56, the 4K/30Hz/8 bit over HDMI looks surprisingly nice and crisp (150% size in Windows, similar scaling in macOS), not tested USB-C yet. Colors look very nice, the control board on-screen menu offers the options of native/sRGB/AdobeRGB/P3 color spaces, but I have yet to measure and profile the monitor.

Do not hesitate to ask any question!
Great project. I considered doing this, but since Brazil charge a lot of import taxes I’ve gave up and bought an Apple Studio Display.

What was the total cos for you t? Thanks
 

USB3foriMac

macrumors 6502
Apr 15, 2020
311
116
Singapore
I also have a 5k screen (from an LG ultra fine 5k with dead control board) that was not pink before it died. Then, when I rebuilt it with the aftermarket board, the edges are pink. Interestingly enough, I have a second LG 5k screen that I swapped out for the first one. In either case, the LG control electronics have no pink border, while the same screen powered by aftermarket electronics control board has a pink boarder.

I can't explain why, but the pink boarder is somehow caused by an issue with the control electronics and not the screen hardware itself. And, unfortunately, I don't have a solution to solve the pink issue :(
The pink border is not caused by the electronic. That wouldn't even make sense.
It is however possible that the brightness of the backlight control has an impact on how strong the pink border appears. This could be the reason why you notice it more with one electronic and less with another, but it remains a screen issue that cannot be resolved.
 
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uller6

macrumors 65816
May 14, 2010
1,040
1,680
The pink border is not caused by the electronic. That wouldn't even make sense.
It is however possible that the brightness of the backlight control has an impact on how strong the pink border appears. This could be the reason why you notice it more with one electronic and less with another, but it remains a screen issue that cannot be resolved.
It may also have something to do with pressure on the outside of the screen? The display isn’t mounted as firmly in the housing on mine, but I’m not going to take it apart and find out if squeezing the edges makes any difference.
 

Edge

macrumors regular
Jul 28, 2005
128
24
I have a Late-2015 (B1) screen propped up loose in front of me, strongly displaying the pink borders around all 4 edge of the display. It has only recently been connected to the JRY card, and I did not think to examine the screen for the pink edge hue before cutting the adhesive apart, in part because the graphics were failing.

I had already read the iFixit poster's claim about taping the edges (to restrict the ingress of light) to lessen the appearance of the pink tinge. And I have manually tried squeezing the edges to try and see a difference in the hue. However, it doesn't seem to make any difference to my eye. The longer you look at it, the harder it is to discern any subtle changes.

Lowering the brightness makes the effect slightly less obvious, but the distinct pink hue remains.

This thread https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/2015-27-imac-has-pink-edges-anyone-else.2178372/ discusses it in a context unrelated to the DIY 5K driver boards.
 
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xMarty

macrumors newbie
Jul 26, 2023
7
2
iMac 2017 5K project
I plan to buy a new Mac Studio with an M3 chip and will use the display with it.

I ordered the R1811 v4 board from StoneTaskin, and it arrived yesterday. I tested it today, and everything seems to work fine so far. I want to build a minimal config 5K display and need advice on a few things:

1. I want to use the iMac original power port. I already read that's possible and that I need "Molex (3 Circuits) Male & Female Housing w/ Pins 20-24 AWG Micro-Fit 3.0" to connect the PSU to the port. Is that correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/352457119033

2. I want to have a working camera in the display. Which one can be recommended?

3. I want to exchange the fan for a quieter one. Which fan would fit onto the board?

A bonus solution would be to use one of the iMac ports to connect the HDMI/DP cable to the iMac and internally to the board.

Thanks for any advice.
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
542
254
Hi
1. Yes

2. IMO Continuity Camera with an iPhone is better...
The one @Aiwi used seems to be the best that anyone in this thread has used.
His link doesn't show details but searching for IMX258 gives this one, which looks like it:
4K 12MP CMOS IMX258 USB2.0 Camera Module High Speed AF/FF 30FPS MJPEG, YUY23211

3. Replacing the fan on the R1811 with a 40mm Noctua one has had mixed reports, as its not a good fit and doesn't have the correct 'bury mount' blade profile.
I found the original fan is just as quiet if run at a lower voltage, either powered through a resistor, or using a 2-wire fan controller - which is what I did. But my build wasn't 'minimal config'. ;)

Bonus. Have a look at @Aiwi's blog to see what he did with his iMac ports.
 
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nullpointerninja

macrumors newbie
Mar 23, 2023
3
3
Might be slightly off topic but don't want to open a new thread for this. Does anyone know if we could use one of these controller boards to create a 4.5K DIY monitor with the panel from the M1/M3 iMac? I love the slightly smaller screen from that iMac but haven't found anyone trying this yet.
 
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Regulus67

macrumors 6502
Aug 9, 2023
307
308
Värmland, Sweden
Might be slightly off topic but don't want to open a new thread for this. Does anyone know if we could use one of these controller boards to create a 4.5K DIY monitor with the panel from the M1/M3 iMac? I love the slightly smaller screen from that iMac but haven't found anyone trying this yet.
Check it out yourself. And decide if you wish to try it.
 
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Patrick874

macrumors newbie
Feb 27, 2024
8
2
What I now know is: my iMac 2017 has Thunderbolt 3,
but the built-in AMD Radeon RX580 graphics card can only do DP1.2
I'm now looking for a firmware update for double DP.
Does anyone have instructions on how to flash this? and what tools and firmware do I need?
should I buy from Stone Taskin?

it works.....
These little Chinese freaks from StoneTaskin did a great job. So. Thanks to the new firmware, my late 2017 iMac with dual DP at a resolution of 5K also works.
Thanks guys and Thanks StoneTaskin
 

fhall1

macrumors 68040
Dec 18, 2007
3,832
1,268
(Central) NY State of mind
Might be slightly off topic but don't want to open a new thread for this. Does anyone know if we could use one of these controller boards to create a 4.5K DIY monitor with the panel from the M1/M3 iMac? I love the slightly smaller screen from that iMac but haven't found anyone trying this yet.
Once you have the panel make/model, you'll need to see if anyone makes a third party driver board for it!
 

Regulus67

macrumors 6502
Aug 9, 2023
307
308
Värmland, Sweden
Consider the space available. What kind of electronics, connectors and ports would fit in such a tight enclosure???

"The headphone jack has also been relocated from the front to the lower-left edge of the display, a decision likely made because, at 0.45 inches thick, the iMac's display is now thinner than the 0.55-inch depth of a standard headphone jack."
That is 11,43 mm thick !

imac-2021-teardown-4.jpg


edit: PaulID-UK has a good point in the next answer. If you are only using the display panel. And not the chassi
 
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PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
542
254
The new iMac screen looks like it could have the same 40 pin eDP and 12 pin backlight sockets, so it could work with current boards with new firmware to do 4.5K and new cables. Maybe…

But that may not happen until there are lots of customers wanting replacements for out of warranty broken screens, and for the Chinese get enough broken screens to repair and TEST before resale to those customers. 😉

Maybe the 4.5K screen would fit in a 21.5” iMac case?
 
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nullpointerninja

macrumors newbie
Mar 23, 2023
3
3
Thanks everyone for your comments! Seems like I'd have to wait a bit more until there's a suitable controller board. I am willing to have the board outside the case if necessary, which would mean a small bulge in a small area but retaining the slim profile in the rest of the monitor.

Thanks again!
 
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Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
31
17
Pulled the trigger on a 1811. I want to hook the orig speakers to it. What’s the easiest plug and play solution for this? I have read the thread but it seems way over my head and too technical for me.
 

Regulus67

macrumors 6502
Aug 9, 2023
307
308
Värmland, Sweden
Pulled the trigger on a 1811. I want to hook the orig speakers to it. What’s the easiest plug and play solution for this? I have read the thread but it seems way over my head and too technical for me.
Just noticed the eBay-UK supplier of my R1811 is now selling kits to use the iMac speakers with the R9A18/R1811's inbuilt audio amp. Kit consists of crossovers and cables so no modification is necessary.

View attachment 2297801
I had great success following PaulD-UK's post #793. Very easy to connect 👍
Swapped the cables to one of the modules (+ - cables), to get the sound in phase.
I ordered two sets, in case I'll make another DIY 5k Display in the future.

edit: see my post #807 for a close-up photo on the modules
 
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xMarty

macrumors newbie
Jul 26, 2023
7
2
@Aiwi

You wrote on your GitHub page: "There is a need to opt for a backlight boost board as well, as the 2017 iMac has tremendous max brightness."

As I also have a 2017 iMac, do I really need the Backlight Booster Board for the R1811? How many nits do I get without the board?
 

PaulD-UK

macrumors 6502a
Oct 23, 2009
542
254
The backlight Constant Current board has been measured to add about 80-130 nits max brightness.
With my 2017 iMac Pro D1 panel I find the R1811 brightness without the CC board to be quite adequate - I never need full brightness.

Edited for accuracy.
 
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Aiwi

macrumors member
Oct 21, 2010
79
70
@Aiwi

You wrote on your GitHub page: "There is a need to opt for a backlight boost board as well, as the 2017 iMac has tremendous max brightness."

As I also have a 2017 iMac, do I really need the Backlight Booster Board for the R1811? How many nits do I get without the board?

The backlight Constant Current board has been measured to add about 80-100 nits max brightness.
With my 2017 iMac Pro D1 panel I find the R1811 brightness without the CC board to be quite adequate - I never need full brightness.

PaulD is right, it’s not a requirement for the panel to work. It’s a requirement if you want the panel to have the same max brightness as before.

I have not seen any measurements of the two options, so you make the judgement call on cost/benefit.
 

Semmo

macrumors member
Jun 23, 2020
31
17
I had great success following PaulD-UK's post #793. Very easy to connect 👍
Swapped the cables to one of the modules (+ - cables), to get the sound in phase.
I ordered two sets, in case I'll make another DIY 5k Display in the future.

edit: see my post #807 for a close-up photo on the modules
Perfect just what I was looking for! ordered a pair!

I went with the 1811 v4 (Non 2.1 HDMI) from Stonetaskin.

my M1 Max is only 2.0 HDMI plus I never use HDMI anyway. I couldn't seem to find any other upgrades with the 2.1 update either? is that right

My only other concern is I would ideally like to use just the usb-c 1 connection option. but I really do not want the power delivery (happy with my official MagSafe charger)

Assuming the difference between the USB-C Vs DP1.4 (physical connection) is that Would not be able to change brightness and volume with the DP1.4 connector only with the usb-c?

I wish the PD could be disabled!

If the MagSafe connector is present does Mac disable the usb-c PD? this is my only other thinking.

Edit.
Just tested this myself.

I have my MacBook running over 1 TBolt cable to my 4k Ultrafine with PD 60W
Code:
AC Charger Information:

  Connected:    Yes
  ID:    0x0000
  Wattage (W):    60
  Family:    0xe000400a
  Charging:    No

If I plug my MagSafe charger in it takes over the PD supply I think.

Code:
AC Charger Information:

  Connected:    Yes
  ID:    0x7002
  Wattage (W):    94
  Family:    0xe000400a
  Serial Number:    C4H2314033RPM0WAU
  Name:    96W USB-C Power Adapter
  Manufacturer:    Apple Inc.
  Hardware Version:    1.0
  Firmware Version:    1080053
  Charging:    No
 
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Izzie24

macrumors newbie
Feb 24, 2024
9
4
I connected the original speakers to the R1811 driver board with a 2-way YLY-2088 crossover board from Amazon.
I find the sound very dull and not very nice, it is not as clear as the original iMac. :confused:

With the lab power supply at 1.5 volts and 0.5 amps, I tested whether the woofer went out or in. If it went out, then I had the plus and minus wires right. This is how I connected it.

But what about the tweeter, because no matter how hard I tried. I couldn't figure out what the plus and minus poles of the tweeter are.

Does anyone have any tips? 💡

(Photos will follow tomorrow. 🖼️🤳)
 

xMarty

macrumors newbie
Jul 26, 2023
7
2
If you want to have the iMac power button to break main power to the r1811 you can get a bi-stable relay.
How would I connect this relay to the iMac power button cables and an R1811 board or the control panel? I read a lot in the thread about soldering the iMac power button cable to the R1811 board or the control panel but found nothing about how to use the bi-stable relay you linked.
 
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