After extensive testing, I couldn't determine what is causing the lines on the MBA!

[Scottsdale]

Just tested listening to Apple Lossless format music but I can say the audio got better, in a way the sound is a bit clearer.

I sometimes use an external usb audio device (just a small dongle) that will enhance the quality pretty well for a pretty cheap one (http://www.soundblaster.com/products/product.asp?category=1&subcategory=207&product=17892) (seems they made a new version of it as well lately), but MBA alone isn't too bad now. (Love my Bose earphone btw )

Also, on the previous post, I took some photos of the inside of the new MBA (tho, they could be posted elsewhere already), if anyone is interested, I'll post them. (But since the photos are taken by iPhone and I'm pretty much a noob at photo, don't expect any great quality...)

Scottsdale, I have rev A SSD (no lines) and rev C SSD (with some lines) right now, if you need me to test anything, let me know (unless it's super complicated.)

About the ctrl being the far left middle, os x's stock keyboard config has a way to have it as ctrl... that was easy fix.

Well, how do you feel about swapping the displays??? I want to know the following...

If you put the 9C90 into the original MBA, and leave the display on for let's say ten hours of use, and see what happens (I predict the lines will be gone). Then, possibly without lines, can you put it back in the new MBA and see if the lines are still gone???

Also, test two. Put the original MBA display in the new MBA, and I predict the lines will still not be there, but if they are, it blows my concept!

 

[h1d]

I feel I wish I could swap it, but how do I do that? I wish Maven would point it out a bit more in detail, obviously I don't want to go in blind and brick my first day MBA...

So, unless someone can help me with the process, I don't think I'm going to unscrew everything only to find it not come back in one piece...

I think it has to be unscrewed way more than for reapplying thermal paste and I did find star shaped screws at where I think needs to be removed that I can't even turn around without such specific drivers, so not possible at the moment.

The display tearing should be same for all revs, so if anyone got any insight on how to disassemble display off of MBA, that would help.

 

[Scottsdale]

I have come up with a few things to test. Does anyone here have both an original and rev B MBA without lines? Does anyone have a 9C9A display? Who has the other display 9C8F? Are these with or without lines?

Anyone with a faint lines new MBA, can you plug it in and turn the display to full brightness, and use a pixel display checker to cycle through the colors. Leave each color on for maybe a half hour. Next, leave a bright white background on for half hour. Now, look and see if lines have been reduced at all while still warmed up? Next, turn it off and let it cool down for a few hours. Turn back on and see what the result is... DO NOT REPORT HERE. We cannot have people "think" their lines are gone, so best to PM me the results as to not spoil what people are thinking may or may not have changed anything in relation to the lines. This is an important test that I need several other people to report their results, PLEASE. PM me with your results. Then, in 24 hours, go ahead and report your findings back in this post for others to see. I am hopeful to get four or five people to report this in before the results are spread here.

Next, backlighting... when you turn your MBA on, and it shows the gray background, notice areas of brightness and more importantly darkness... use a blank sheet of paper to diagram the dark and light points. Now, go ahead and use your white background to look for the lines. Move the window with lines all over and check for lines specifically in the lightest areas you noticed with the gray background during bootup and the darkest areas. Note if there is ANY correlation to that... remember correlation isn't causation. This is testing another theory which was submitted by someone else.

 

[h1d]

After seeing illusional lines (or rather the faintest possible lines, which I never ever figured for the past year) on my rev A after being crazy about lines... I think I'll take a break...

 

[Scottsdale]

I feel I wish I could swap it, but how do I do that? I wish Maven would point it out a bit more in detail, obviously I don't want to go in blind and brick my first day MBA...

So, unless someone can help me with the process, I don't think I'm going to unscrew everything only to find it not come back in one piece...

I think it has to be unscrewed way more than for reapplying thermal paste and I did find star shaped screws at where I think needs to be removed that I can't even turn around without such specific drivers, so not possible at the moment.

The display tearing should be same for all revs, so if anyone got any insight on how to disassemble display off of MBA, that would help.

iFixIt.com has a complete breakdown of the MBA. It would require taking apart the MBA. But really, all you would have to do is remove the display and connect it without fully installing each in the other case. It's really about removing screws and being able to reinstall. If you don't want to, by all means, DON'T DO IT!

If you read the guide and decide you can, I would greatly appreciate the results. I decided not to buy an original just on principle of promising myself to never do that to myself again... LOL.

Let me know if you can do the other experiment, and send me the results via PM.

 

[Scottsdale]

I decided what I really really really want to know is what happens to a 9C90 once it's plugged into an original MBA??? I really wish I had an original MBA to test on, but I don't want to deal with an original MBA beyond that.

My friend who ordered the 13" MBP cancelled it due to the SATA 1.5 Gbit limitation. So, I decided to buy the SSD model only if it comes with a SATA-II controller. Some people have reported Apple will only enable SATA-II 3.0 Gbit if purchase an SSD model... I REALLY HATE THIS TOO! So, I have to spend an extra $400 for a damn SSD to get SATA-II 3 Gbit (this should really piss off a lot of MBP buyers if true). To think that the MBA SSD would possibly be faster than an Intel SSD in a new MBP limited with SATA 1.5 Gbit is sick (MBA has a 3 Gbit drive controller). Anyways, waiting on some answers by people who have bought one to find out if true.

On another note, I will be keeping my new MBA, and the brand new 13" MBP will go to my daughter for her birthday. Going to be way too expensive with the dang SSD in it too.

 

[h1d]

I'll see what I can do tomorrow. What do you mean by "the other" test?

 

[h1d]

There it is...
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/First-Look/MacBook-Air/598/1
Let's see what kind of interesting result it will be... (My bet is hugely that rev A display works just fine on rev C attached)

 

[Scottsdale]

There it is...
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/First-Look/MacBook-Air/598/1
Let's see what kind of interesting result it will be... (My bet is hugely that rev A display works just fine on rev C attached)

Yes, it will... the real test is what happens to the new 9C90 display when attached to the original MBA? Does it change anything? I think we may see a surprise! But I cannot test that theory as I don't have an original MBA to work on right now. If anyone can do this, I will greatly appreciate it and share the details as to why we would see some interesting results.

 

[justit]

It's really about removing screws and being able to reinstall....

It's not as easy as you and ifixit makes it out to be. To get to the display, you have to take the entire thing apart. Not only are there screws, there is taping that you have to remove, once you bend it, it leaves permanent markings, making your warranty void.

 

[h1d]

Alright, here's one fact out of test 1.

I opened both rev A and C, plugged A's display onto C (without tearing apart but just opening both and letting A display cable reroute onto C's socket...) and well, just as I imagined, lines are gone. So, anything that is not the display in rev C sounds pretty much innocent. I looked at them 2 times each, so I'm quite sure lines are gone on the same light blue solid color background image I used to check for lines.

And yes, the display swap is a p.i.t.a, period... The star shape that is supposed to be removed just won't rotate... I'm 30% giving up, but will still try some more.

Gonna attach rev C display onto A now...

 

[h1d]

Ok, here's the next test.

I plugged rev A onto rev C display and actually I did find the lines just like rev C alone, but this was the expected outcome, so it is almost very clear that the display IS at fault.

During the test I found 1 little interesting thing but to see the lines (at least on my rev C) the default Leopard background of the universe wallpaper can give a good way to identify the lines on the upper left corner and I saw that, before logging in, when the login screen is out, I see lines across the screen, after logging in, with the same wallpaper, the lines become less... The lines don't go all the way across but from place to place, they become basically invisible... I tried this with a brand new user, so the user has no calibration of any sort but after logging in, the lines got less.

As interesting and complicated as it can be...
Kind of tired doing the tests for now, plugging it back and forth with 2 mba's displays sitting on table... typing key reversed keys facing down... and trackpad mouse moving to other direction than intended... lol

 

[h1d]

About removing the display... I got to the point to remove the SSD off and it's the "Torx" (as Maven pointed out [You will need Phillips P0 and Torx T6 drivers.] Didnt know what it was till I just googled) that is firmly so tightly keeping the display from going bye bye from the mobo... I guess I need that to actually do any progress beyond this point. The size is a very small one of about 1.5-2mm diameter.

 

[Scottsdale]

But do the ten hour test like I said with the original MBA and the new MBA's 9C90 display. My theory is the lines should change over the course of ten hours.

Does the A display look exactly the same when plugged into the new MBA as did on original?

Are you going to leave them swapped for your use?

 

[h1d]

I'll have to think about the 10 hours test. Sorry but where is the post you mentioned about how to do the 10 hours test?
And yes, rev C using rev A display does look like rev A using itself.

I just figured the reason for less lines after logging in could be due to change in brightness. Didn't think that'd happen after logging in.

Like I wrote, I didn't entirely swap (which is not possible due to lack of torx 6 or something). I just removed the back case, unplugged display cable, did on both and just temporarily rerouted the display output to the other. So, I wish I could entirely replace and keep it... for a perfect rev C. I think I'm getting the torx tomorrow. I reassembled them both now back in one piece.

 

[Scottsdale]

I'll have to think about the 10 hours test. Sorry but where is the post you mentioned about how to do the 10 hours test?
And yes, rev C using rev A display does look like rev A using itself.

I just figured the reason for less lines after logging in could be due to change in brightness. Didn't think that'd happen after logging in.

Like I wrote, I didn't entirely swap (which is not possible due to lack of torx 6 or something). I just removed the back case, unplugged display cable, did on both and just temporarily rerouted the display output to the other. So, I wish I could entirely replace and keep it... for a perfect rev C. I think I'm getting the torx tomorrow. I reassembled them both now back in one piece.

Well, a torx t6 bit might set you back a whole 99 cents... I bought my torx set for $2.99 and it included six bits from t5 to t10. Included a cheapie driver too!

Once you get the new 9C90 display in the original MBA, turn it up all the way, find a screen saver that will show bright colors, and let it run. Select the radio button to not allow dimming of the display, and set other settings so display and MBA don't sleep. You can use like the photo gallery screen saver with nature which has bright colors... or make a custom folder with a bunch of big solid colors (same colors used in a pixel checker). Let me know what it looks like afterwards... send me a PM for further clarification. It really could make a big difference for that display...

 

[h1d]

So, there's a good reason that this test has to occur from the rev A's output onto the rev C's display? I gotta first figure out how to swap it though... But my hunch says I don't have to disassemble everything but the torx bit... We'll see tomorrow. Time to sleep.

 

[LAS.mac]

This past Wednsday I was in an exam in the university where I work.
The fellow presenting is Thesis was using a MBP 15", pre-unibody.
It was hooked to the projector, and I was seeing the monitor from 3-4 m and at an angle of, maybe, 40 degrees. From my position I couldn't distinguish the figures, but I could clearly see horizontal lines of about 3-4 mm, brighter and darker. As soon as he turned off the external projector, the lines desappeared without doing anything else. I found myself thinking in Scottsdale...
Maybe the MBA lines thing is all matter of energy and power?

 

[h1d]

I just did it! Replaced rev A display onto rev C for "the best". Posting more info after I close the case...

 

[h1d]

OK... both are back in 1 piece...

Now I can see lines on rev A! And rev C got to the state where rev A was. And I must say, it's quite a work.

If anyone is willing to do but cannot afford to lose the MBA whatsoever, don't. If you're confident with your screwing (not screw up) and some decent memorizing skill, then you could give it a shot and lose lines on rev B/C if you still have rev A. (Or hell, you could even get one separately lol, if you think it's worth the price and effort... : http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Air-Display-Assembly/IF188-001)

It'll take less than an hour to disassemble both and reassemble them. You need a torx 6 and a small "plus" driver, and good amount of accurate concentration. Magnetic driver saves your day. If you haven't you could reapply the thermal paste on the way too.

Just for anyone who might do, here's the brief process. (And no blame on me, if you ever screw up, by no means, I take any liability on the content, these are how I just did). If you are stuck, you're best to ask questions before something goes sorry.

1. Remove the back panel by removing the screws around.

2. Remove the battery by unscrewing all and unplug the battery cable off mobo.

3. Detach cables of HDD/SDD off mobo and unscrew HDD/SSD and remove it.

4. Remove the sound (?) and another ribbon cable off mobo near the power adaptor socket, which has a silver bracket on it, which you need to unscrew first.

You don't need to let go of the power socket adaptor, the usb/audio/display socket adaptors and the long rectangle black part below it.

5. Remove the display connector, power connector from mobo which is near the power socket adaptor and unscrew all of mobo screws and let it go off. There are a few screws hidden below thin covers.

6. Detach the black wifi chip cover on the side. Remove the 3 golden sockets going in it that leads all the way up to the display.

7. Use the torx and remove those 4. Unscrew about a dozen of small screws that holds the display and the base body.

8. Carefully take the cables that lead to the display away from the base body after removing each screws on them and the display should come off completely at this point, with 2 cables hanging out of it (Wifi and cam). (Watch out for the hinge, as both sides need good amount of force to be bent but the middle does not, thus without the display attached, you could bend it too much easily.)

9. Do same on the other MBA, swap the stuff, undo everything * 2...

I'll see what I can do with the 10 hours test thing later.

 

[h1d]

OK. Something I have missed but rev C now looks "yellowish" while rev A looks "whiter". I didn't realize which was how before swapping, so I'm not sure what is what at the moment.

[nvm, rev A was yellow to start with, now rev C became yellow after swap]

 

[Scottsdale]

OK. Something I have missed but rev C now looks "yellowish" while rev A looks "whiter". I didn't realize which was how before swapping, so I'm not sure what is what at the moment.

[nvm, rev A was yellow to start with, now rev C became yellow after swap]

My colors are excellent on new MBA display... lines seem to be gone now too! Will write more later, as I am still trying to find another one to test. I am wondering if they're just gone for awhile like when I couldn't find them for a few hours a few days, or if it's what I did to it??? Still trying to figure why this seems to be different now... but maybe all the displays need is a little "burn in" time with more power. Will report back in a few days after attempting another test.

Still would love your test on the ten hours h1d. Seriously, see if the display, while connected to an original, on full brightness, changes the lines at all over the short run or even longer??? Need some help testing this... anyone out there.

 

[Stormygirl]

Please tell us the solution!

Scottsdale, *please* don't keep us in suspense!!! Please don't wait a "few days" to tell us how you got rid of the lines on your new mba. I have been following this thread for days holding my breath waiting for someone to figure this out. And now you have, but won't tell us for several days??? Come on! I have an appt at the Apple store today to buy a new mba and would love to hear your solution! Even if it changes later on, please let us in on the secret.

 

[redcrow240]

why do I have the feeling that an all white screen at full backlight for a few hours will do the trick? It would be awesome if it were something as simple as that

 

[hitekalex]

why do I have the feeling that an all white screen at full backlight for a few hours will do the trick? It would be awesome if it were something as simple as that

Maybe that explains why all MBA's at Apple Store displays don't appear to have lines. But then again, my brand new MBA doesn't have lines either, so perhaps this issue isn't as prevalent as some think.