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I recently took the plunge and bought a Lansky system. It's like a dream come true on my pocketknives - in less than 10 minutes I can get one literally sharp enough to shave the hair off my knuckle. My kitchen knives, on the other hand, are made of a much tougher steel and the Lansky stones take a VERY long time to even make an appreciable change in the blade's sharpness, let along put what I would call a good edge on one.

It shouldn't most kitchen knives are high carbon steel and, therefore softer than most pocket knives. Are you using the 20 degree on the Lansky?

Reading this thread, I have just - courtesy of Mr Google - been looking up the Lansky, - which I had never heard of prior to today - cited in posts made by @Tomorrow and @lowendlinux; is it as good as all that, or, is it worth purchasing?
 
Reading this thread, I have just - courtesy of Mr Google - been looking up the Lansky, - which I had never heard of prior to today - cited in posts made by @Tomorrow and @lowendlinux; is it as good as all that, or, is it worth purchasing?

Overall I've been very happy with it. My only problem is that my kitchen knives are apparently made of a much harder steel than my pocketknives, and require much more effort (time) to get them sharp - but that's also the case with pretty much any sharpener.
 
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It shouldn't most kitchen knives are high carbon steel and, therefore softer than most pocket knives. Are you using the 20 degree on the Lansky?

Yes, 20° for the kitchen knives and 25° for pocketknives.

BTW, my kitchen knives are stainless. And higher carbon actually increases hardness.
 
Yes it's a nice enough system.

Overall I've been very happy with it. My only problem is that my kitchen knives are apparently made of a much harder steel than my pocketknives, and require much more effort (time) to get them sharp - but that's also the case with pretty much any sharpener.

Thanks for your replies, @lowendlinux and @Tomorrow, very good to know.

Usually, when I remember to do so (i.e. when knives begin to lose that je ne sais quoi), I get them sharpened professionally. But it makes huge sense to have a decent sharpening kit in a domestic setting.
 
Is it legal to carry one of those things in Michigan?
No, it's not legal to carry in Michigan. It's legal to posses in your home or place of business though. Mine stays at home, in a box, put away.

Michigan Complied Law:
750.227 Concealed weapons; carrying; penalty.

Sec. 227.

(1) A person shall not carry a dagger, dirk, stiletto, a double-edged nonfolding stabbing instrument of any length, or any other dangerous weapon, except a hunting knife adapted and carried as such, concealed on or about his or her person, or whether concealed or otherwise in any vehicle operated or occupied by the person, except in his or her dwelling house, place of business or on other land possessed by the person.
http://www.legislature.mi.gov/(S(e4...etobject&objectname=mcl-750-227&query=on&Dirk
 
Is it legal to carry concealed folding knives - say, a Swiss Army knife, in Michigan?
Looking at the MCL (Michigan Complied Law), and based on the way it reads, it may be legal to carry a knife of any length, as long as the intent isn't unlawful.

750.226 Firearm or dangerous or deadly weapon or instrument; carrying with unlawful intent; violation as felony; penalty.

Sec. 226.

(1) A person shall not, with intent to use the same unlawfully against the person of another, go armed with a pistol or other firearm, or a pneumatic gun, dagger, dirk, razor, stiletto, or knife having a blade over 3 inches in length, or any other dangerous or deadly weapon or instrument.

Also, I guess, based on how it reads, it may be lawful to go armed with a blade under 3 inches even if your intent is unlawful. Kind of weird how its written. But I suppose the last part of the last sentence can be a gray area, catch-all clause.
 
I'm a big believer in the Lansky system also.

If I let a blade get really bad it might take me 20 minutes to get it sharp again, but if I stay on top of sharpening I can get the job done in 10 minutes.

BTW, I added a sapphire stone(~2000 grit) and a leather strop to my basic "course-medium-fine" kit. The strop in particular makes the blade really sharp(after working through the rest of the hones) and I'll even use it for a quick touch up by hand(not in the holder). The stop takes very, very careful handling through as pulling it against the blade will quickly kill it. I think I paid ~$12 for the strop at Smoky Mountain Knife Works. If I go by there later today(I might since I'll be very close) I'll likely grab another one along with a 1000 grit "extra fine" stone.

BTW, I don't particularly care for the honing oil included in the Lansky kit. I suspect it's nothing more than low-grade heating kerosene, as it has a pronounced sulfur smell. I use 3-in-1 oil in its place. I'm a big fan of 3-in-1 in general, and it works great as a honing oil.
 
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