Apple M0100 Mouse

[HunterCupp]

Hello, all.

I have recently acquired an Apple M0100 Mouse that was said to not work for unknown reasons. After proper examination, I discovered that there is a missing pin in it's DE-9 connector plug. I am unsure of what actions can be taken. Replacing the pin, the connector, or nothing at all. I will attach a picture of the connector which shows the missing pin (Number 6) on the bottom left of the plug.

Thanks, in advance.

-Hunter

 

[tdiaz]

That missing pin ..

.. is missing on purpose.

No Connection, make a hundred thousand mice, save a hundred thousand pennies.

It adds up in the longer run.

 

[HunterCupp]

That missing pin ..

.. is missing on purpose.

No Connection, make a hundred thousand mice, save a hundred thousand pennies.

It adds up in the longer run.

tdiaz

I don't understand what you mean about it being missing on purpose, since it's a 9-pin connection. Is there anything I can do to fix this?

-Hunter

 

[AmestrisXServe]

The DE-9 connector has no pin there, because that pin on the socket is N/C.

You won't find it on most mice with for the Mac/Lisa, as it doesn't do anything.

If it is not working, on testing it, try a thorough cleaning of the sensors, the connector pins, and all internal connectors. It's rather rare for one of these to die entirely, unless it is abused.

You should also do a continuity test between each pin, and the internal connector header, as that will tell you if any of the wires inside the cable aren't making a solid connection. That is where I would start.

 

[MacTech68]

The missing pin is normal for these mice.

If there is no movement (horizontal AND vertical) and no mouse button action (you can usually activate the Apple menu without needing to move the mouse pointer) the most likely cause is a broken cable. They usually break at the strain relief where the cable enters the mouse.

I've been able to fix these in the past but you need a lot of patience if you want the mouse to look as per original.

EDIT: As AmestrisXServe says, a continuity test with a multimeter is where to start. Sometimes you can slowly move the cable where it enters the mouse and see it suddenly spring into action.

 

[AmestrisXServe]

I would worry about function first, and aesthetics later. You can trim the cable, if the break is near the end, but it is just as possible to be anywhere else along the length of the wires, and future degradation may lead to other faults later.

A basic DE9M housing, and a cable with eight wires (e.g. an Ethernet cable) is what you will need to do the change.

Don't expect this to be the problem: Do a continuity test first, and see if you can find a problem. If you get a good reading on each wire, then you will know that the problem is elsewhere, despite that this is the first thing you should suspect.

 

[HunterCupp]

The DE-9 connector has no pin there, because that pin on the socket is N/C.

You won't find it on most mice with for the Mac/Lisa, as it doesn't do anything.

If it is not working, on testing it, try a thorough cleaning of the sensors, the connector pins, and all internal connectors. It's rather rare for one of these to die entirely, unless it is abused.

You should also do a continuity test between each pin, and the internal connector header, as that will tell you if any of the wires inside the cable aren't making a solid connection. That is where I would start.

AmetrisXServe

I am unable to open the mouse to inspect its board, I can't seem to get the casing open past the mouse button and where the wire extrudes from the mouse. It almost seems as if there are two screws (one in front and back). I feel something will snap if I try to force it open. I will work on getting a multimeter this week as well.

-Hunter

----------

The missing pin is normal for these mice.

If there is no movement (horizontal AND vertical) and no mouse button action (you can usually activate the Apple menu without needing to move the mouse pointer) the most likely cause is a broken cable. They usually break at the strain relief where the cable enters the mouse.

I've been able to fix these in the past but you need a lot of patience if you want the mouse to look as per original.

EDIT: As AmestrisXServe says, a continuity test with a multimeter is where to start. Sometimes you can slowly move the cable where it enters the mouse and see it suddenly spring into action.

MacTech68

I am assuming that you're saying that I can activate the Apple menu using the keyboard? If this is so, I believe that the keyboard no longer works. When booted, no buttons produce any action/command on the computer what so ever. It can't be a cable problem, with the keyboard if so, as it's a new cord that I had bought and was tested before shipment. It must be something internally.

-Hunter

 

[MacTech68]

I am unable to open the mouse to inspect its board, I can't seem to get the casing open past the mouse button and where the wire extrudes from the mouse. It almost seems as if there are two screws (one in front and back). I feel something will snap if I try to force it open. I will work on getting a multimeter this week as well.

I am assuming that you're saying that I can activate the Apple menu using the keyboard? If this is so, I believe that the keyboard no longer works. When booted, no buttons produce any action/command on the computer what so ever. It can't be a cable problem, with the keyboard if so, as it's a new cord that I had bought and was tested before shipment. It must be something internally.

-Hunter

No. That's not what I meant, but if you're getting a multimeter it's kind of moot.

The mouse should have either two screws at the cable end (on the bottom) OR it will have ONE screw at the other end.

Both types open from the end where the screw(s) were, and eventually un-clip at the opposite end.

 

[HunterCupp]

No. That's not what I meant, but if you're getting a multimeter it's kind of moot.

The mouse should have either two screws at the cable end (on the bottom) OR it will have ONE screw at the other end.

Both types open from the end where the screw(s) were, and eventually un-clip at the opposite end.

MacTech68

My mouse only has one screw at the close end of the bottom region. It still seems pretty tight to the point of possible cracking, but I will work on it again in the morning in attempt to open it. I will also try to obtain a multimeter tomorrow as well. Considering as that is what this all leads up to, eventually. I have attached a picture of the bottom of my mouse for reference.

-Hunter

 

[MacTech68]

OK, after removing the screw, lift THAT end up about 5-10mm. Wiggle the top case from side to side (pivoting about the cable) whilst gently pulling the top cover upwards. The two locking tabs at the cable end should disengage, allowing the top cover to lift. You might find a bit of resistance when lifting up caused by the molded cable entry. It's not glued so should come away from the bottom and/or top case.

Keep an eye open for a spring which may fall out. It's from the center of the button.

 

[HunterCupp]

OK, after removing the screw, lift THAT end up about 5-10mm. Wiggle the top case from side to side (pivoting about the cable) whilst gently pulling the top cover upwards. The two locking tabs at the cable end should disengage, allowing the top cover to lift. You might find a bit of resistance when lifting up caused by the molded cable entry. It's not glued so should come away from the bottom and/or top case.

Keep an eye open for a spring which may fall out. It's from the center of the button.

MacTech68

That worked very smoothly, it's open. The cable doesn't seem to be broken anywhere at all from what I can see. You're the expert however. I will attach a photo of the mouse, now.

-Hunter

 

[HunterCupp]

MacTech68

That worked very smoothly, it's open. The cable doesn't seem to be broken anywhere at all from what I can see. You're the expert however. I will attach a photo of the mouse, now.

-Hunter

MacTech68

Here's a photo of the solder side if needed. Also, I think my soldering skills have gone up since the analog board on my Plus, I might try resoldering all of the caps on the board for the mouse. Just maybe?

-Hunter

EDIT: You wouldn't believe it. Resoldering all of the connections fixed the mouse, and the keyboard is in perfect working condition. The only problem that still remains is switching the analog board, which should be easy enough assuming they have the same revisions. I can discharge the CRTs no problem by grounding my insulated Flathead screwdriver, so there is no problem there.

 

[tdiaz]

I'm not even sure "revision" matters. They all have the same in/out function. I never bothered to switch based on revision back in the day. There were preferences for various revisions, mostly based on components on them already, but once they were repaired, to me, they were all as good as any other, and I put the push-pin type fasteners in, even if it meant drilling holes in them.

Just swap it, and adjust the picture as needed, with the plastic tool.

 

[MacTech68]

You wouldn't believe it. Resoldering all of the connections fixed the mouse, and the keyboard is in perfect working condition. The only problem that still remains is switching the analog board, which should be easy enough assuming they have the same revisions. I can discharge the CRTs no problem by grounding my insulated Flathead screwdriver, so there is no problem there.

Well, that's good news - if not a little strange. Well Done!

I'm not even sure "revision" matters. They all have the same in/out function. I never bothered to switch based on revision back in the day. There were preferences for various revisions, mostly based on components on them already, but once they were repaired, to me, they were all as good as any other, and I put the push-pin type fasteners in, even if it meant drilling holes in them.

Just swap it, and adjust the picture as needed, with the plastic tool.

I get what you mean. And for us it's nothing to repair them as they fail, but for HunterCupp I'd rather we get as reliable a board as possible to (hopefully) reduce the likelihood of an impending failure. I'd just hate there to be an old 3.9uf Electro or anything else common to failure.

 

[HunterCupp]

I'm not even sure "revision" matters. They all have the same in/out function. I never bothered to switch based on revision back in the day. There were preferences for various revisions, mostly based on components on them already, but once they were repaired, to me, they were all as good as any other, and I put the push-pin type fasteners in, even if it meant drilling holes in them.

Just swap it, and adjust the picture as needed, with the plastic tool.

tdiaz

MacTech68 had mentioned something about revisions in my CRT thread and needing to see which revision it was in to see what "changes" would need to be made. That's why I mentioned the revision. Although seeing as what he says now, I suppose I could just swap it out and see what happens. Also, the new Plus' analog board has those push pins in them which I found helpful. Mine is just rigged with tape from where I had to tear the sticky squares off.

-Hunter

 

[AmestrisXServe]

MacTech68

Here's a photo of the solder side if needed. Also, I think my soldering skills have gone up since the analog board on my Plus, I might try resoldering all of the caps on the board for the mouse. Just maybe?

-Hunter

EDIT: You wouldn't believe it. Resoldering all of the connections fixed the mouse, and the keyboard is in perfect working condition. The only problem that still remains is switching the analog board, which should be easy enough assuming they have the same revisions. I can discharge the CRTs no problem by grounding my insulated Flathead screwdriver, so there is no problem there.

That's one of the reasons that I said to test the internal connections, as the solder joints can break, or become oxidised. At least the cable is fine.

For the record, you would not see any breaks in the internal wires, unless you stripped the casing off, and even then, they can be inside the casings of the internal wires. You always check for continuity with a gauge.

I take it that you have completed this project?

 

[HunterCupp]

That's one of the reasons that I said to test the internal connections, as the solder joints can break, or become oxidised. At least the cable is fine.

For the record, you would not see any breaks in the internal wires, unless you stripped the casing off, and even then, they can be inside the casings of the internal wires. You always check for continuity with a gauge.

I take it that you have completed this project?

AmetrisXServe

Not entirely, some more problems have come up that I am slightly confused about. Unless the mouse cursor can NOT move on the startup screen with the icon searching for a floppy, it has stopped working again. I can't really test that as of yet because of my floppy drive needing replaced.

-Hunter

 

[MacTech68]

AmetrisXServe

Not entirely, some more problems have come up that I am slightly confused about. Unless the mouse cursor can NOT move on the startup screen with the icon searching for a floppy, it has stopped working again. I can't really test that as of yet because of my floppy drive needing replaced.

-Hunter

I can't recall if it moves before bootup or not.

But an intermittent cable might still be the cause.

 

[HunterCupp]

I can't recall if it moves before bootup or not.

But an intermittent cable might still be the cause.

MacTech68

Are you sure that could be a possible problem considering the fact that it worked up until the floppy disk stopped working? I got bored and decided to move the mouse as the system was looking for the disk and nothing happened. That's the only reason I noticed it.

-Hunter

 

[AmestrisXServe]

I seem to recall that the cursor worked from ROM. Your lack of a startup volume should not cause this.

If you send an interrupt signal, you should be able to use the mouse and keyboard too.

What you really need is one of the HD20 hard drive units: I used to have one of these on my 128, that migrated to my 512ke, my Plus, and finally my SE. THey attach via the floppy drive connector, and use either an ST506, or an original WD IDE drive; probably the former.

 

[HunterCupp]

New Problem (Apple M0100 Mouse)

Hello, All.

It's been about a month or so now and I have a new problem. The mouse has stopped working once again. This time it works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. I first noticed the problem yesterday while showing off my Mac Plus. I powered it on and put a floppy disk with a few games in. Upon attempting to use the mouse, nothing happened. Confused and worried, I tuned off the mac and started fiddling with the DE/9 connector and blowing the plugs like a NES cartridge in hopes of a change. I turned it back on and it still wasn't working. After about 5-10 more seconds of fiddling, it moved. I thought something could have just been stuck or something was just off and I shrugged it off. Today, I powered it on and the mouse didn't work what so ever. I began messing with it again leaning over my desk looking behind the mac at it's connectors. After giving up, I came back to the Macintosh display. The mouse cursor was half was across the display which had shown that something made it move while I was working on the mouse. It still didn't work however. I have since then (about 2 hours) been unable to get the mouse to work.

I hope someone can help. Thanks in advance.
-Hunter

 

[MacTech68]

I'm still going with my original intermittent cable diagnosis.

So long as the ball and rollers are clean.

 

[HunterCupp]

The DE-9 connector has no pin there, because that pin on the socket is N/C.

You won't find it on most mice with for the Mac/Lisa, as it doesn't do anything.

If it is not working, on testing it, try a thorough cleaning of the sensors, the connector pins, and all internal connectors. It's rather rare for one of these to die entirely, unless it is abused.

You should also do a continuity test between each pin, and the internal connector header, as that will tell you if any of the wires inside the cable aren't making a solid connection. That is where I would start.

MacTech68 & AmestrisXServe

I am going to attempt to replace the wired or what have you. I would like however to do the continuity test throughout each pin. That would show if any of the wires are broken or not outputting a signal, according to Amestris. I have no idea how to do that but I will assume I need a MultiMeter?

-Hunter

 

[MacTech68]

... I will assume I need a MultiMeter

Correct. Preferably with a continuity beeper. Ask the store.

 

[tdiaz]

Cable. Cable, and more cable. It either works, or doesn't. Unless there is something in the mouse that is blocking the optics in the wheels.. but the button would still work.

Since -everything- dies, and there's nothing inside the thing that moves like that, I'm putting all my chips on "CABLE".