Broken Internal Display Connector 27" iMac

Discussion in 'iMac' started by wingzero1285, Nov 15, 2010.

  1. wingzero1285, Nov 15, 2010
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2011

    wingzero1285 macrumors member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2010
    #1
    For those iMac owners who have broken that internal video connector off the logic board and are left scratching your heads as all the pins are destroyed on that little connector… I have found a solution!

    This part is something that can be ordered! The model number of the part I ordered is FI-X30SSL-HF. It is made by JAE. The number stamped on the original part is actually FI-X30SSLB-HF. The B for black. This piece I ordered is actually beige. I took a chance by ordering FI-X30SSL-HF because I could not find the B model ANYWHERE! I ordered this part from Mouser Electronics. It was about $22 shipped from Texas to New Jersey. I figured I had nothing to lose.

    I verified that the original display wire would fit into this connector. Also its feet line up with the pads on the logic board. I soldered it down moments ago.

    My only issue is I have yet to post any results because in a last ditch effort last week, I tried to splice the original display wire to solder it directly to the logic board. I attempted this because I figured I had nothing to lose and that the little tiny connector had no model number.

    Boy was I wrong. I found that model number stamped to it by using a magnifying glass. So now I wait until my video cable arrives from applecomponents.com. Ah the waiting game. Hope to post positive results. The solder job was tedious but doable with a 15w pointy soldering iron and the right tools and materials. Will post again tomorrow or wednesday!

    And to think I was so close to selling this and going back to building my own PC… at least with a PC I know how modular parts are and easily replaceable they can be… gotta love APPLE!

    Side note, does anyone else feel that Apple's over all quality has gone down over the years? I feel like the machines in the early 2000's being produced in Taiwan were of much higher quality. I don't know maybe its me. Or maybe I feel this way because I was tinkering around inside of an iMac as if it was a mid ATX tower...


    Edit - This was with a 27" iMac 2010
     
  2. PurrBall macrumors 6502a

    PurrBall

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    Indianapolis
    #2
    I've had a ridiculous number of iBook G4 logic board connectors come unsoldered. Not meant to be taken apart, apparently.
     
  3. wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

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    Aug 22, 2010
    #3
    Well its a success, for those of you who are in the same situation as I and would rather order a $12 connector and solder it back down to the board instead of having to buy a new logic board... its totally repairable! Next mac will be the pro, more room inside of those things!
     
  4. AlphaDogg macrumors 68040

    AlphaDogg

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    May 20, 2010
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    Boulder, CO
    #4
    Glad it all worked out! :)
     
  5. db4408 macrumors newbie

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2010
    #5
    This just happened to me. Why do these have to be so flimsy?

    What tools did you need to solder it back in? Also, did you take the logic board out or solder it with it in-place?

    Thanks!
     
  6. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    Apr 23, 2008
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    Pennsylvania, USA
    #6
    Oh just saw this in time and thanks! Is it surface mount solder job or does the board have to be removed? Apple says $800 to replace the board, give me a break!
     
  7. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    #7
    Update: this part # is obsolete, so I'm looking for a replacement. So far, it's a 30 pin right angle surface mount female connector w 1mm pitch.
     
  8. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    #8
    I'm trying mouser electronics #656-FI-XB30SRLHF11 which may work. Will report back on this.
     
  9. wingzero1285, Jun 26, 2011
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2011

    wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2010
    #9
    Let us know! Also, don't forget to solder every contact to the pads. Its very tiedeous but it'll work out if done patiently. Also, there two ground connectors on either side of connector that need soldering.

    The best method for me was soldering the two ground conectors to their respective pads first, to placehold the piece, while I carefully soldered the other 30 some odd pins.

    15watts was a little weak, 20/25watts should be perfect in regard to the iron.

    Since this whole debacble I went back to PC. I can't stomach Apple's hardware any longer. Waiting for HD6950 support in OSX so I can run a Hackintosh partition.

    Let us know how it goes!
     
  10. wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

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    Aug 22, 2010
    #10
    Surface mount and Apple is ridiculous to make someone pay $800 for a new board when the part is like $20 (more like a dollar if we weren't buying 1 at a time) shipped.
     
  11. wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2010
    #11
    I also used a magnify glass. Some pads had enough solder left on them to finish the job, some didn't. Just make sure you get the contacts hot enough for the solder, but not too hot to cause damage to the pcb.

    I'm not sure how profiencent you are with soldering, but that was my first major project on something so tiny. I've soldered plenty of larger items where detail wasn't too important. This was a bit nerve wracking for me! :eek:

    Good luck!
     
  12. wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2010
    #12
    Been away from this forum for a while (and never receive emails from posts!), anyhow, I used simple, common tools:

    - 15watt solder iron with a fine point
    - solder specific for computer components
    - magnify glass

    In addition, I used whatever tools I used to open the iMac.

    I took the screen out and left the logic board in the mac. For me it was easier to do the job with the mac sitting normal on the desk, than laying it down.

    When I finished soldering, I wiped the sweat from by brow for the 30th time and then used the display port out to make sure I didn't damage anything. It booted and worked fine connected to my 42" plasma (mind you I had to solder the connector and then wait 5 more days for the internal video cable so I was really anxious!).

    For added "security" the internal video cable came with some special silver tape thats used through out the iMac, when I installed the end that clips into the logicboard, I ensured it was taped properly so that no extra stress would break my solder joints. In addition to that, the length of the new cable had double sided tape the ensure no extra stress was sent to the connector. This is something to look out for while digging around in the iMac.

    Hope all this info helps!
     
  13. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    #13
    Your initial info identifying the part was a great start. Soldering the ground tabs first is a good idea. I had to repair a damaged trace, but otherwise the pcb looks ok. Yes, a magnifying light is a must to avoid solder bridging. Thanks, and I will let you know how it goes.
     
  14. kasey01 macrumors newbie

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2007
    #14
    How did you cause the display port connector to come apart from the logic board? Please advise as I don't want to do this if I open my iMac up again. Thanks.
     
  15. wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

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    Aug 22, 2010
    #15
    Mine broke when I pushed the video cable's connector in too hard when reassembling my mac after an ssd upgrade. The female connector, which is soldered to the board, has pins that are bent at 90 degrees. Pushing too hard just broke all the pins right where they were bent 90 degrees. It was a total "HOLY *****!" moment. But I cooled off and figured it out afterwards.
     
  16. rj86 macrumors member

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    #16
    Wow, I must have taken various iMacs with this style connector many tens of times and never managed to break one... I don't think it has anything to do with build quality, lets just put it that way.

    Guys, if you're gonna do the upgrades yourself: Take. Your. Time.
     
  17. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    Apr 23, 2008
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    #17
    Mine broke as I lifted the LCD panel just a little too high which probably tugged on the cable and broke the connector. The panel is so heavy, it was hard to tell when I was meeting with resistance. Still, it wasn't that hard a pull. Oh well, next time I'll know better.

    I wonder if this connector has been improved since the original is no longer available.
     
  18. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    Pennsylvania, USA
    #18
    The connector seems to be correct, but some of the board solder pads on the right will not take the solder. I'll try again later with more heat. This is a difficult job and I do have board work experience. Amateurs will not be able to do this.
     
  19. wingzero1285 thread starter macrumors member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2010
    #19
    Yeah my 15watter from Radio Shack barely got the job done. Eventually with having it applied long enough to the pad and contact from the connector, adding just the right amount of solder, the solder flowed nicely. Then I repeated this 30 times! :eek:
     
  20. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    Apr 23, 2008
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    Pennsylvania, USA
    #20
    Mission fail, sorry to say. Luckily, the mini display port works with an external monitor, which will have to do. I can't toss an I7 machine just like that.

    Future Imac Suggestion: include a rear access door for hard drive replacement, as this is a common failure.

    Without the monitor and the LCD temperature sensor, the fans run at hi speed. Can this port be shorted out, or is a specific resistance required? Thanks!
     
  21. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    Apr 23, 2008
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    Pennsylvania, USA
    #21
    The LCD temperature sensor looks like a 2 legged FET (transistor). It's inserted into a plastic holder which is glued to the LCD back panel. Without the LCD sensor installed, all the fans will run at high speeds. Fan control software only controls the hard drive fan, so installing that will not help.

    The sensor ohms out at 4 mega ohms, which declines as the temperature gets hotter. However, substituting various resistors for the actual sensor will not slow the fan speeds. Even without the LCD panel installed, the LCD sensor must be in the Imac to fix the noisy fan issue. I was hoping to leave it in the LCD panel when I sell it, but this is not to be.
     
  22. numnutz2005 macrumors newbie

    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2009
    #22
    Hey guys sorry to rezz a dead thread but i spent the past few weeks trying to find info on the board connector to connect the monitor up to a 27in i7 imac since the ebay seller that sold me all these broke the connectors and turned up nothing. when talking to a rep from digikey (link below) she found a current connector that should do the trick. so far everything seems fine and i just ordered some more to repair a few more of these imacs so im hoping for the best here but mainly wanted to share the info since im sure others are trying to find something as simple as this connector and might be having trouble as well....besides its worth a shot for $12 bucks as oppose to 1500 bucks or whatever rediculous number apple throws out there for a new board.

    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&KeyWords=670-2205-nd&x=0&y=0

    I hope this helps guys. take care.
     
  23. Douglas123 macrumors newbie

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    Aug 26, 2011
    #23
    I don't how thank you guys, but you guys are the best, I personally thank you numnutz2005 for reposing this link, one my coworker broke that internal pins, and i was searching for this part crazy. You saved my life!
     
  24. Patm1 macrumors newbie

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2011
    #24
    Did it fail because the part you ordered wasn't compatible or was it because there was a problem with the soldering job?

    Thanks
     
  25. senseless macrumors 68000

    senseless

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    Apr 23, 2008
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    Pennsylvania, USA
    #25
    Missed your question. The part was correct, but I was unable to solder it. It might require a specialized soldering station for micro board work.
     

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