Wow! Sorry to resurrect such an old thread, but I had the
exact same thing happen to me back in 2017 with a Sonnet Encore ST G4 SG4R-1250 1.25GHz CPU upgrade in my G4 Cube! It was working fine, then one day BOOM puff of black smoke. I opened up the Cube, followed the smell, and was absolutely heartbroken to see the blown cap on the very expensive CPU card.
At the time my knowledge of electronics was very limited, so any repair seemed out of question, but I held onto the CPU just in case... Fast-forward to today and after getting into micro soldering and electronics repair during the pandemic, I found myself thinking about that CPU with the blown capacitor again.
I dug it out, removed the non-blown capacitor above it and used my Transistor Tester to identify it. Was getting around 210uF, so I figured it was likely 220uF but wasn't sure about the voltage until I noticed the capacitor just above it in parallel was a regular tantalum cap (instead of an unmarked conformal coated one like the one that blew up) with the markings "227A", which I just learned (from an AVX datasheet) means 220uF 10V.
Was just about to place an order for the replacement caps when I decided to search for "Sonnet Encore capacitor replacement" and to my surprise I found this thread. Thank you so much
@Wouter3 for sharing this! The confirmation you received from Sonnet, and hearing that replacing the cap worked for you, has given me hope for this CPU card! This G4 Cube and CPU card were pivotal in my interest in vintage Macs and electronics repair, so if this works again it will be awesome.
Attached is a picture of my card (after cleaning; I have pictures from immediately after the puff of smoke but they're on an old hard drive) – you can still see the burn mark/melted plastic on the top-left corner of the connector. How shocking is it that it's the exact same capacitor (in terms of location on the board) that blew! I wonder if this is going to be a more common issue going forward 🤔 Obviously my card is a little different, with the positive side being the left side (as denoted by the line on the tantalum cap and the pointy end of the conformal cap), but the similarity in failure is still surprising.
Anyway, I'm leaving all of this information here in case it helps anyone else down the line. Will follow up once I get the replacement caps and test the card out again!